Rockfax Description
An often overlooked classic on a fine crag. The climbing and line are intricate and in its lower reaches on compact rock that requires crisp conditions. The first pitch is high in the grade. Start in the back of the recess at a short, thin corner-crack.
1) 4c, 18m. Step up into the thin corner-crack from the right and climb it for a couple of metres before stepping onto the slab on the left. Move up to a niche and high runners. Bridge up to good hand holds above the niche and step left to a crack. Follow the crack until the slab on its left can be climbed to a fine ledge and belay.
2) 8m. Traverse rightwards on easy ground to a good ledge below a steep corner.
3) 4b, 17m. Climb the steep corner and then move left to another. Follow the corner to an overhang and pull leftwards on good holds to clear it before a short wall gains the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, South West VDiff-HVS, Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings.

Hidden 13/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Alison Cairns 14/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Lovely route - been on my list for years. Easy access down lighthouse steps then low tide scramble. Led p1 - never hard but you have to be solid at the grade and the gear takes some finding (micro-cams v useful!) P2 is an enjoyable jug haul.

with Dave W-J
Hidden 13/Jul/17 AltLd
Hidden 13/Jul/17 AltLd
Hidden 13/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Marl 25/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Great climb in a fantastic setting. Just about managed scramble round base of cliffs before tide came in. led first & last pitches.

with Mac
Darron ??/2016 -
Hidden 02/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Bob Peters ?/Sep/15 -
with Dad
Hidden 29/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
partz 20/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Lead P1-2 together. Bit confusing initially deciding how to get onto the slab, but great moves getting there and better ones on the slab. Very cool. Nice finish too, worthwhile

JonnyW 20/Jun/15 AltLd

Led pitch 2 - Overall an awesome route

manbat 08/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

I led pitch 1. Nice climbing, took my time due to uncertainty about gear. Second pitch worthwhile too - airy positions on big holds.

Lumbering Oaf 08/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Great route. P1 great fun.

neilstubbs 31/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Stefan led P1 and carried on to belay ledge, I led P2, P1 hard at the grade but great climb.

with Stefan Parkin
Hidden 28/May/14 AltLd
Hidden 28/May/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 22/Nov/13 Lead O/S
jhb0510 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Beautiful Climb! Loved it.

with Andy March
Wendy Watthews 06/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
arandall 06/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

I lead pitch one and pitch 3

dready 05/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

part 2

with dillwat
Dilwat 05/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Took a while to work the line out, but great climbing. P1 for me and HVS/E1 top groove for Joe.

with dready
Mayo 06/Sep/12 AltLd
jakenichol 12/May/12 Lead O/S
Master Chief 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S

excellent climb, enough said :)

with Moe
gowla 10/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

E1 finish through the rooves past an enormous nest full of bones...

with Alex Burns
Hidden 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Mark D 29/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Dave Duggan
Hidden 28/Jul/11 Lead
nickdonohue ?/Apr/11 Lead

good but some rather bold moves on pitch one

with Ashley Hold
lrandall 02/Mar/11 Lead O/S

In 2 pitches, I took both leads. First route outdoors since November and bitterly cold conditions made for a harrowing experience on the first pitch. Stiff at the grade and felt pretty serious on at least one move. Very enjoyable.

with Mandy
erinbastian 23/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with martin
DanLear 25/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Me: pitch 2 + 3 run together

with Al McPhierson
brockers ?/Aug/10 AltLd
with Astrid Saxby
Phil PBC 27/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Birds nest on second pitch ment henry had to do classic and not E1 via

Steve Lenartowicz ?/Jun/10 -
with Clare
Hidden 27/Apr/10 2nd
Bobby Gilbert 17/Feb/10 Lead O/S
with Josephine Gilbert
Chris_barr 06/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Finished up E1 overhanging (wet/chossey) roof for alternative finish. Good route. Lead first pitch.

with Mike
Huntlyfiddler 27/Jul/09 2nd
bpmclimb 27/Jul/09 Lead O/S

The start position is not completely clear from the guidebook description.

with Clare
briar4012 20/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Marti & Mark
Marti999 20/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Anna
Em66 20/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with MUMC
Hidden 21/Sep/08 AltLd
Hidden 01/Sep/08 Lead
Dale ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S

did the direct start with a wet hold E1. good adventure what a amasing place. worth 2 star

with johny
Martin Bennett 10/Jun/08 -
with RA
Geoffers ??/2008 AltLd O/S
with Tim
BALD EAGLE 27/Aug/07 AltLd
with Andy Tallant
Hidden 21/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
zcapxa5 14/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
with Dave Prady
Mazmaslen ??/2007 2nd
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
eel 15/Aug/06 2nd O/S
crossdressingrodney 04/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Fairly easy route, although some lower pro would be welcome! Wet start. The approach and escape are definately the hardest parts of the route!

victim of mathematics 04/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/06 AltLd
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Samuel P 08/Feb/04 2nd
with Kevin
Hidden 08/Feb/04 AltLd O/S
Jess Carr ?/Sep/03 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Oct/01 AltLd
Bob M ?/Oct/01 AltLd
with Jill Stevens
phardman 22/Aug/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/01 Lead
Nigel Coe ??/2000 AltLd
alan moore ??/2000 -


migs493 13/Aug/98 AltLd O/S
craig h 27/Jul/97 AltLd O/S
with Janet Hannah
Hidden 27/Aug/95 AltLd O/S
colin milton 13/Aug/95 AltLd
with eric milton
Ashley Hold 20/May/95 Lead
Hidden ??/1995 AltLd
GuyC 01/Aug/93 AltLd O/S
with Jon Bell, Clare
NickJH ?/Aug/90 Lead
DaveHo ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/87 2nd O/S
Ken Taylor 25/Aug/79 AltLd
with Richard Langthorp
Mark Kemball 16/Apr/79 Lead
with Sarah Bridge
Hidden ?/Aug/74 Lead
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