115m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the longest, most alluring and serious VS climbs in the West Country, Wrecker's Slab is nevertheless the most attempted of its genre on the coast. The huge, slim slab rising from the beach on the far right-hand side of the cliff has very little in the way of technical difficulty but should not be underestimated as the rock is poor, protection spaced and the situations very serious. Start at the base of the slab just right of the overhangs.

1) 4a, 35m. Make a couple of tricky moves to easier ground and work out leftwards along an easy-angled section of slab to the arete. Climb a loose corner groove just right of the arete to a good peg and then move up and right on more loose rock to a footledge stance and peg belays plus good nut belays 5m above.
2) 4b, 45m. Climb directly to the overlaps and pull through them onto the slab above. Climb the slab to a belay at a pillar on a grass terrace.
3) 4a, 45m. Climb up past the pillar to the easy-angled upper wall and follow this on its left side to the top of the slab and belay. A short scramble along a ridge is needed to finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An amazing cliff, one of the best adventureous routes in the country. Make it a must to climb, what a fantastic day out. Oh and make sure you don't throw all the hand holds down to your belayer.

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Best slab climbs of the UK, Heather's Multipitch Climbs, West Country Climbs, MIA logbook must haves!, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, Summer 2017.

Jim blackford 01/Jan Lead O/S

This is such a good route. Climbing is nowhere harder than severe but HS is fair given loose rock and length. Lots of pegs on P2 protect the runout

with Arthur
Skip 18/Nov/17 AltLd rpt
Hidden 18/Nov/17 AltLd rpt
derryclimbs 04/Nov/17 Lead rpt

Did it and loved it again. led all pitches and battled the wind and spotty rain. Bit of fancy ropework required to get all 3 of us up but all worth it for the pint at the Bush Inn afterwards! Still reckon its a S 4a at best (or worst, whichever way your are inclined to think)

Sayuh 25/Aug/17 2nd O/S

First ever multi pitch, interesting due to a heavy bag of wet gear and crumbly rock but somewhat entertaining!

with Joel
2602steve ?/Aug/17 -

Pete lead the way. Easy climbing but most of the ample holds give a little wobble when you grab them. Gear is spaced and unreliable - this is not a climb you want to fall on, even the belays don't inspire confidence. Fantastic position. Glad to have done it but when you're used to west Cornwall granite, this place doesn't call you back...

jhobbs 14/Jul/17 2nd O/S
with Pete Belfield
schoogles 08/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
with Connor Agnew
Connor170 08/Jul/17 AltLd
outdoorrob999 25/Jun/17 AltLd

1st and last pitch

Hidden 25/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
Graeme Hammond 11/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Becky E
minexplorer 03/Jun/17 AltLd

night climb, me 2nd pitch

with nick
mattcoleman 02/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Laura Clee
Hidden 01/Jun/17 Lead
m.powell02 01/Jun/17 Lead O/S

A fantastic day out! - we headed out as a group of 6, climbing in 3 pairs. It was an unforgiving 20 minute slog along the coast path, arriving at the top of the slab dripping in sweat under the afternoon sun. We racked up and scurried down into the unknown, navigating waist deep gorse, nettles and brambles. I soon regretted my decision to wear shorts. There was also an ant's nest to negotiate - just to spice things up a little. Comparatively, the lower reaches of the cliff are far more amenable, an easy line of rubble leads to the hand rope and then down to the base. As the last pair to lead, Emmy and I had about an hour and a half on the beach, watching our friends disappear into the above one by one. At last, our turn! The climbing was delightful, wonderfully long pitches with some seriously(!) spaced gear and a few rusty pegs thrown for good measure. There was much less loose rock than I had anticipated and it generally felt in good condition. We topped out just as the dark began to set in with big grins all round. A great adventure route, well worth all the sweat and blood and even better with all your best mates!

sweetbonsaitree 01/Jun/17 2nd O/S

Seconded Matt

Laura Clee 01/Jun/17 2nd
Hidden 01/Jun/17 2nd β
Noodles30 ?/Jun/17 AltLd
with RAD
Lee_Meaden 07/May/17 Lead rpt

Lead all pitches. Went direct to second belay ledge this time which was much nicer. Trended right previously and had a nervous loose scree & grass clump traverse back left which stuck in the mind...

with kai
StormShadow 15/Apr/17 2nd
with Rob and Chris
Skip 14/Apr/17 AltLd rpt
Tommy yorke 14/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

First climb on the culm what an introduction!! Really enjoyed it

with Skip, gareth
fennerz 02/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
with Jocelyn
Hidden 16/Feb/17 AltLd rpt
Hidden 16/Feb/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Feb/17 AltLd
kw299 ??/2017 AltLd
Hidden 27/Nov/16 Lead rpt
LDJ 16/Nov/16 AltLd
with Ollie
ollie1 16/Nov/16 AltLd
Jelly Mould Surfer 09/Oct/16 Lead rpt

Very warm in the sunshine. We were able to access the slab about an hour after a neap high tide - I reckon it would be easy enough even at high tide as long as its a neap.

Rob Seymour 08/Oct/16 AltLd

Another of those routes I'd saved for my senior years. Very enjoyable. The climbing is not much more than V. Diff/Severe but there's more than four hundred feet of it, the gear is pretty indifferent and every other hold is disposable. Could be VS 3b, if that makes any sense.

with Mark Kemball
Mark Kemball 08/Oct/16 AltLd
with Rob Seymour
Hidden 28/Sep/16 2nd
J.A.Thomson 21/Sep/16 AltLd rpt
with JackM92
JackM92 21/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Sep/16 AltLd
Hidden 01/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
kim.mulji 29/Aug/16 AltLd

Let p1 and p3. Amazing climb, very straight-forward, but beware of loose rock, and gear placements quite spaced, but not too worryingly so. A right of passage for the Culm coast! :-)

oscaig 29/Aug/16 AltLd rpt

Repeat with Kim - led 2nd

Stone Idle 17/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Jelly Mould Surfer 17/Jul/16 AltLd rpt
Bob M 05/Jul/16 2nd
with Nick Foot, Scott Titt
Hidden 05/Jul/16 -
Hidden 11/Jun/16 2nd
phil456 07/Jun/16 AltLd rpt

Lead P2, Totally absorbing, lovely

with Graham M
G Weatherley 29/May/16 Lead

Lead all pitches. Glorious weather with not much wind... sun burn to prove it but great day out.

with Guy Freeman
jon59 23/Apr/16 Lead

Last climbed this 20yrs ago! a great day out, loose in places but thats what you expect on the Culm coast. Spaced gear but steady climbing.

DanChad 05/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

I led pitch 2.

Chris Murray 05/Apr/16 AltLd

What a route! Led P1, which was less loose and had more gear than expected, and P3. Great adventure!

Laurine 24/Jan/16 2nd O/S
with Ed
Hidden 24/Jan/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Jan/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jan/16 Lead rpt
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Rhys Deane ??/2016 -
with Sam Russel Alfie Berry
Joel Perkin 23/Dec/15 Lead rpt

Bloody hell, back again! This must put my ascents of this route into the 20's. Nothing stupid this time, no beans, no head torches, just high winds...

with Sean Wilcock, Big Rob
seanywillycocks 23/Dec/15 2nd O/S
with joel
derryclimbs 25/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Been waiting a while for the right conditions, tide and partner to do this one. Didn't disappoint. Felt very much like an alpine day out, bit of loose stuff (not as much as expected), bit of exposure but technically easy. Great atmosphere which really made the climb. can see the VS grading for the overall experience, but the actual climbing is more like S or HS at most. Plenty of pro if you've got rp's galore

martinov 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S

+ Marto

with Jon Bamgboye
Tanya Savage 08/Oct/15 AltLd

great day out. I led first and third pitches, Neil 2nd and the scramble. Not much gear on first pitch after first steep bit and before groove, but easy climbing. Some loose stuff on first and second pitches but not much. Definitely want to bypass pillar on 3rd pitch - pile of loose blocks.

Neil Pacey 08/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

What a fantastic adventure. I led 2nd pitch which was very well protected with no moves above Severe. First pitch is crux but the unprotected section is easy climbing. I would say HS 4a overall.

alice fuller 29/Sep/15 AltLd β

lead the middle pitch.a lot of pegs, rock seemed good.prev seconded George.Great fun on a lovely sunny day

JDSwain 17/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Two extremely heavy cloud bursts after the first pitch made the route somewhat more interesting in the wet. Loose, wet and rather slippery but a classic non the less.

with Steve Daniels
fizzychewitt 07/Sep/15 AltLd
with Alun, Jayne
Hidden 07/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
theocelano 27/Aug/15 2nd
with luca
LJC 27/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Grade A choss pulling. More gear of a worse quality than expected. All pitches lead.

with Theo
Hidden 16/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Bobling 16/Aug/15 AltLd

Blimey, what a route. A full day out with some climbing thrown in!

with William, Dave B
Hidden 11/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Skip 01/Aug/15 AltLd rpt
with Sally
Hidden 30/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
cem 18/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Led p1 & 3.

Hidden 18/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/15 2nd
Circus 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Seren
stephen ashworth 04/Jun/15 AltLd
with Ian hendy
ian hendy 04/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Stephen Ashworth
Chrismaccers ?/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/May/15 AltLd O/S
Stanners 17/May/15 Lead O/S

An unusual start. Best cream tea of my life followed by an anxious walk to the top of the climb. With only 6 outdoor climbs experience it took some reassurance as Robbie picked up his bag and marched off saying "I'm not climbing a 120m sea cliff". After much swearing and debating luckily managed to convince him to the bottom of the crag and we smashed a quick hassle free ascent, despite no helmets, only a single half rope and a packet of sherbet lemons. Perfect conditions - back in time for a newquay night out after dipping our toe in the strange nightlife of Bude. HS 4a*** really, but suppose its fairly serious and keeps people on there toes giving it VS.

RJLeish 17/May/15 2nd O/S
Fred_Richard 04/May/15 Lead

Awesome long route! Technically very easy for a Vs but super exposed and bold in places. Not as loose as expected.

with Pete
AliceKerr ?/May/15 AltLd O/S
manbat 29/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Was waiting to do this for a long time. A bit underwhelmed to be honest. Didn't find much loose rock either! I lead P2. I think we did the wrong start, as we had to turn an overhang, which was easily the most difficult move on the whole route.

Lumbering Oaf 29/Apr/15 Lead rpt

P1 & P3

Outdoor Dave 28/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
with Paul
Matthew Martin Wsm 26/Apr/15 Lead rpt

lovely easy climb in mint cons! awesome day out!

with marc fenton
Hidden 26/Apr/15 Lead
ewalker278 12/Apr/15 AltLd
G Weatherley 12/Apr/15 2nd
andrewmc 12/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

P2 (plus exit), Ed led P1 & P3. Lots of not completely attached stuff but most of it is still happily in place; not very many death blocks or blocks that will fall out if you use them :)

Hidden 12/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/15 2nd O/S
JoeCoxson 06/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

P1 & 3, loads of climbing, feels like a short mountain route.

Wendy Watthews 06/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Lead the middle pitch, last climb of the day got in just before the tide

with Beni, joe c
TP 06/Apr/15 -
with Ben H
Hidden 06/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
K Mckay 06/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Now I know what adventure climbing means! Led pitch 1 & 2.

beni 06/Apr/15 AltLd
CatMc ?/Apr/15 2nd
with clams
clams ?/Apr/15 Lead

VS on account on spooky rock. Great 3 peg belay half way up

Hidden 14/Feb/15 Lead
Homes 06/Dec/14 AltLd
with Sam A
Matthew Martin Wsm 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Lovely easy climb in fab positions in amazing setting, loved every minute!

with ian marshall
crater 14/Oct/14 Lead O/S

60m ropes handy,good route

with steve
Steve Woollard 14/Oct/14 2nd
with Donald
minexplorer 30/Sep/14 AltLd

2nd pitch

with chris the tall
Chris the Tall 29/Sep/14 AltLd

Led P1 and p3. Great route throughout, much less crumbly than expected. Very low in the grade, but not a place to be pushing your limits

with Rad
Skip 13/Sep/14 AltLd rpt
with Ivan
J.A.Thomson 12/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Dan
Hidden 07/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Simon Caldwell 07/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

In 3 pitches, I led the 1st and 3rd. Spectacularly good route, everything I'd hoped for and more.

with Carmen
Hidden 07/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/14 2nd rpt
Keiran Hammond 01/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Seconded Dad with a third climber. Long and sunny.

Hmgslade 25/Jul/14 2nd
with Jack
Hidden 25/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Robertgiddy 23/Jul/14 Lead
Stuckey 17/Jul/14 AltLd
kennythescot 17/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Bob M 17/Jul/14 AltLd
Norman_P_W 17/Jul/14 AltLd
with Bob M
Gilbery 28/Jun/14 2nd
Rup D 24/Jun/14 2nd

Amazing climb on a very hot day

with Paul Greenhow, Andy Graham
Bullybones 22/Jun/14 AltLd
with Neil
silviac 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
EllieWoods 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Silvia, Steve Price
steveprice.exmouth 21/Jun/14 Lead
with Silvia
gingerking 15/Jun/14 AltLd
Hidden 15/Jun/14 AltLd
Hidden 14/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Joel Perkin 14/Jun/14 AltLd rpt

Standard ascent, Rob and I pioneered our brand new climbing protection. Video here -

with Big Rob
sheelba 14/Jun/14 AltLd

Scariest VDiff ever!

Dave 88 12/Jun/14 AltLd rpt

Commando Ridge in the morning, this in the evening, made for quite a special day. Lead 1&3.

with Jack
Lee_Meaden 01/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Luke Robinson
steveprice.exmouth 31/May/14 AltLd rpt

p1 and 3

with Phil Ellis, Graham Mead
phil456 30/May/14 2nd O/S
with Steve Price, Graham M
Jelly Mould Surfer 26/May/14 Lead rpt

P1 & p3

Hidden 04/May/14 AltLd O/S
gingerking ?/May/14 AltLd O/S
Steve Woollard 30/Mar/14 AltLd
Hidden 30/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 23/Nov/13 AltLd
Hidden 04/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
outdoorrob999 04/Nov/13 AltLd
jaffshols 26/Oct/13 2nd O/S

I really enjoyed it!! Great scenery, good banter on the route. Tricky approach.

with Polly Harmer, Matt Burdekin, Alex Zalewski
alexjz 26/Oct/13 AltLd rpt

very fun climbing together as two ropes of two

with Polly Harmer, Jennifer Holloway, Matt Burdekin
Matt Smith 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Lead all 3 pitches, not as loose as was expecting, although there are some monster run-outs which is probably why it gets the VS grade. Last summer day of the year?

Hidden 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S
cpoad 23/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches

with John S
Big Lee 22/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 3

Jelly Mould Surfer 22/Sep/13 AltLd rpt

Seems to have stabilised since last year. Good fun. Hardest move is getting off the ground by far.

annak 22/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/13 2nd
clubmanpete 10/Sep/13 AltLd

Just a fab adventure this route, very easy climbing for vs but understandable with the hole package of the climb. Ie... walking through grave yard.... the hike to and from the cliff top... ...the way it is exposed on the approch... the decent... ...the remote feeling when on the beach with what seems like mountaits towering above you... lack of protection on some pitches,... .....some loos rock.... on so on.... Anyone thinking about it dont get put off, keep head strong and it may well turn out one of the best climbs u do in the southwest... If u like adventure its well worth a play!

with allan
surf1nal-kern0w 10/Sep/13 AltLd

The best climb ever!! what an adventure. First climb on Culm roack. I lead first and third pitch - Pete Campion lead 2nd(hardist)

tim exley 07/Sep/13 AltLd O/S


hornbywill 07/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
John Brayshaw 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Climbed early evening under a clear blue sky with a strong breeze and a crashing sea - a brilliant experience

with Erica
erica 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led top pitch

with John
Hidden 26/Aug/13 AltLd
AndrewP 25/Aug/13 Lead

Felix lead P1, I lead P2 and 3. Severe climbing turned into VS by loose rock and long runouts. Great route.

FelixPeterken 25/Aug/13 2nd

Led first pitch. Very easy climbing really

with AndrewP
alexjz 23/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Lead all 3 pitches. I wanted to do it as it's a classic for the area. It's a good adventure, but the climbing is not that good. I found it very straightforward.

with Mark Zalewski
Hidden 23/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 08/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
net 06/Jul/13 2nd
with George
GPN 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Annette
Marti999 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Lumbering Oaf 23/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Did it in 4 pitches. Led P2 and P4. Great route and given just about the right grade. Not as crumbly as I was expecting and with old pegs to use where gear is sparse.

with Paul
rockpool 23/Jun/13 AltLd

the umpteenth time ive been up this route but still a very enjoyable route.

Joel Perkin 05/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Simon Hammond
Westcorkman 26/May/13 Lead O/S
with Bob Dawson
Hidden 26/May/13 -
TP 25/May/13 Lead

Not the scary experience the guide made out it might be, despite having only two runners on the first 120 ft.

jon bradley 18/May/13 AltLd rpt

Brilliant route

with Brian Vaughan, Tim Styles
timstyles 18/May/13 AltLd O/S

Jon P1+3, Me P2

Hidden 03/Apr/13 AltLd
J.A.Thomson ?/Apr/13 Lead
with Dan
Hidden ?/Apr/13 2nd dnf
Chris316 31/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
Rassapotimus 31/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/13 Lead
Hidden 30/Mar/13 2nd
El3ctroFuzz 25/Mar/13 Lead rpt

Speed ascent - 25 mins 36 secs.

with Alex Orrrrrrr - Green giant
Hidden 25/Mar/13 AltLd rpt
berry ??/2013 -
with richard hudson
Ed morris 18/Nov/12 AltLd O/S

Theres so much of it!

with Colin
Jordon Fleming 18/Nov/12 AltLd O/S

lead 3rd pitch

Hidden 01/Nov/12 AltLd
Ian Miller 30/Oct/12 2nd β
Cheese Monkey 30/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Absolutely awesome climb. Terrifying, but incredible.

with Ian M
Skip 20/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Easy climbing, great situation, on a beautiful sunny day. Leads: Adam 1st pitch, Neil 2nd Pitch, me 3rd pitch.

A Walker 20/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
NeilOMalley 20/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Oct/12 Lead
rockpool ?/Oct/12 AltLd rpt

jarods first big climb in blighty ! the man from Oregon , he say yes.

with jarod bishop
Jelly Mould Surfer 16/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Note - Pitch 1, leave some holds behind for your second. Pitch 2, leave some holds behind for your second. Pitch 3, leave some holds behind for your second. Pitch 4, leave some holds behind for your second.

Hidden 25/Aug/12 AltLd
Joel Perkin 26/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

I lead pitch 1 and 3, doubt there's a 4b move on there, but serious none the less and I wouldn't want to take fall. Proper adventure.

with Mike Garret
Hidden 24/Jul/12 Lead
Joel Perkin 23/Jul/12 2nd O/S
oscaig 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Nice adventure and no big dramas other than the terrible rope drag at the top of the long middle pitch. Led all.

with R Tidy
Tom Seccombe 06/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Brother Nick
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/12 2nd O/S
timdi ?/Jun/12 Lead
Poco Loco 26/May/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Glad to get the first runner in. Some looseness, but not to bad if you are careful! Top route, an adventure.

Shonkhor 26/May/12 AltLd O/S

Led P3. Cracking day out. Frazzled in the sun.

with Dave, James
BALD EAGLE 26/May/12 AltLd
with Will Allen, James Pomeroy
Ianhansen ?/May/12 Lead O/S
Robin Woodward ?/May/12 Lead
Graham Westbrook 22/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
LukeyG 15/Apr/12 Lead
mattkemp70 ?/Apr/12 AltLd
with Westy
chris sm 24/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Laurel Bowler
Hidden 24/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Dave 88 17/Mar/12 AltLd rpt

After a suggested "Walk down the beach with our gear just to have a look about", I was hardly surprised to find myself at the base of Wreckers', in the dark, with a dying head torch, and Rad saying "Oh look where we've ended up. Might as well climb it as we're here!". So we did, and it was every bit as fun as before. I lead 2nd pitch.

minexplorer 17/Mar/12 AltLd

climbed at night personal record 90mins

with dave88
culmclimberRob 01/Mar/12 Solo
Alex the Alex ?/Mar/12 AltLd

A bit over-hyped. Though perhaps a little marred by a wet night in a cave. Bacon butties at the base were the highlight.

Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
alan moore ??/2012 -

A bit special this one.

Ian JL ??/2012 -
Dave 88 15/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

Outstanding slab climbing. Started to try and do Jolly Roger AGAIN, but a late start meant climbing back from the JR first belay, to carry on up Wreckers. I lead 1st pitch to higher belay. Finished in the dark. No change there!

minexplorer 15/Nov/11 AltLd

set out to climb proper route of jolly roger but set out too late in day retreated onto wreckers.i soooo love this route,finished in dark again...does it get any better than this

with dave88
Hidden 06/Nov/11 Lead
Hidden 16/Oct/11 AltLd
Hidden 16/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
rig 10/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with Jamie Lewis
Hidden 25/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 08/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/11 Lead O/S
MoWalker3 07/Aug/11 AltLd

Soaking wet 1st pitch and raced the rain, 30min per pitch, a nice route before breakfast.

with Quiet Ian
mary 05/Aug/11 2nd
with Dale Gautrey
southernclimber 21/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led first & third pitch, all three pitches are superb. Belays & protection good. A true British classic.

JulesClimbs 21/Jul/11 AltLd

Lead pitch 3

with Paul
Hidden 21/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
benchwarmer 20/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Lizzie
lilliyan 20/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Ewan
leadmat 04/Jul/11 Lead O/S

dry, loose in places. awesome.

with Graham Fleury
Hidden 02/Jul/11 -
Hidden 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
The Ivanator 19/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Climbing really only about Severe, but situation and questionable rock perhaps justify the adjectival grade. A good day out. I led 1 & 3.

with Toby
Ybot Htulk 19/Jun/11 AltLd
with Ivan
Hidden 14/Jun/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/11 AltLd
Tristan Sherlock 27/May/11 Lead
Elaine Budden 27/May/11 AltLd O/S

lead third pitch.. easy but very enjoyable

with Ian Luscombe, Tristan Sherlock
Carol Goodall 27/May/11 2nd
Lummy41 27/May/11 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st pitch, climbing as a three, seconded 2nd and 3rd pitches

with Tristin Sherlock
jonnie3430 27/May/11 Lead O/S
with Carol
mackem 15/May/11 -
with Lee Abdul
Mark Collins 14/May/11 Lead O/S

I remember reading about a Kestrel in Bill Birkett's Classic Climbs book. Funny how we saw one there on Saturday also. Great route, had it to ourselves.

with Neil Henson
Neil Henson 14/May/11 2nd

Arrived very early to avoid the crowds. The crowds never came and we had the whole route to ourselves. A superb adventure that I will remember for a long time.

with Mark Collins
Okecroak 02/May/11 AltLd
Chris Ebbutt 02/May/11 AltLd
with Dave R.
stephen ashworth 01/May/11 AltLd
Frostie 01/May/11 AltLd O/S

Good climb, don't think its a VS4b more like HS4a. Didn't find it so bad with loose rock as folk make it out to be.

with Lewis
Hidden 01/May/11 AltLd
Jules 210681 29/Apr/11 2nd
Zoomer 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Have wanted to do this climb since i started but i've put it on such a pedastal that i was a little disappointed overall. Hard Severe all the way with no tech grade, didn't climb one bit of 4a or higher. Some small sections of loose rock but nothing to worry about as is the first pitch. Still a good climb overall however and really pleased to finally get on it.

victim of mathematics 23/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Came back and finished the job from the previous day. Led pitches 1 and 3.

crossdressingrodney 23/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Ended my recent run of failure by leading the middle pitch, which was frankly horrible and scary. Still, we'd left enough gear in situ the night before that we didn't have much choice about coming bank. The bottom pitch was slightly more enjoyable in good dry conditions and Col chose a better line than I did. The top pitch was actually very nice. Finished as the sun set.

victim of mathematics 22/Apr/11 2nd dnf

Backed off from the top of the first pitch after it started raining. Boo.

crossdressingrodney 22/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Started this climb late in the evening with the tide quickly coming in. It rained as I reached the first belay and we bailed out.

Hidden 09/Apr/11 AltLd
Adam Booth 01/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Made the most of the rubbish weather. The first day of my promotion at work... living the dream!

edmitchell 01/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Long run outs!

andy_pemberton 29/Jan/11 AltLd
with DanLear
DanLear 29/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Led p1 & 3

pasbury ??/2011 -
jon59 ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Tristan Sherlock 21/Nov/10 2nd O/S

first 3 pitch route climbed

Hidden 21/Oct/10 AltLd
BoulderMonster 11/Oct/10 Lead rpt

Supper Supper Hot Day :-)

with Ollie Hocking
Hidden ?/Oct/10 AltLd
Hidden 18/Sep/10 AltLd
Hidden 01/Sep/10 AltLd
byatt2002 01/Sep/10 AltLd
Steve Woollard 29/Aug/10 Lead
with Bob Dawson
culmclimberRob 13/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with mike bazley
culmclimberRob 08/Aug/10 Lead rpt

lead all pitch's got their early. but lots of traffic coming up behind us, so it was a busy day on wreckers!! groups were meeting at the belays and everything!

with anna duckett
Hidden 05/Aug/10 AltLd
RachelP ?/Aug/10 AltLd
with Duncan
jgordon75 ?/Aug/10 -
with Dave Hillebrandt
Hidden 05/Jul/10 2nd
vertically_challenged 02/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
mikeburf 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Awesome climbing for anyone comfortable at this grade. Big run out sections! Loved it!

with Rosie
Rosie Hutchins 16/Jun/10 2nd O/S

theres a couple of 4b moves on the second pitch but it is protected. the rest of the climb including the first pitch is quite run out but very easy climbing - 4a at most. alot of loose rock though.

markfromstoke 13/Jun/10 AltLd
with Ian
ian d f 13/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Mark
Jacob k-d 30/May/10 Lead O/S
HeatherF 15/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Alex
El3ctroFuzz 15/May/10 Lead O/S

Oli followed me up all 3 pitches..

with Oli Luff
Hidden 15/May/10 AltLd O/S
Steve Lenartowicz ?/May/10 -
with Clare
Hidden 24/Apr/10 Lead β
Strange little creature 24/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

lots of loose rock, exposed.

with SimonSanders
Quarryboy 18/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

led pitches 2 and 4 good route I think it may not be VS though

with Dave Elder, David Bradbrook
pielander 16/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

led first and last pitch

with keith
Martin Bennett 13/Apr/10 -
with AlanB, Ali
surfboybert 10/Apr/10 AltLd
BEZ 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S


vertically_challenged 10/Apr/10 AltLd O/S


Mark Kemball 07/Apr/10 2nd
with Chris Calow, John Jefferies
minexplorer 06/Apr/10 AltLd

led 2nd and top luke 1st and 3rd.bit annoyed some other climbers starting after climbed in between us crossing the parties,rather inconsiderate.

with luke
duncana 05/Apr/10 AltLd

Sociable route after JK relays

with Shane Ohly, Pippa Archer
Popkids 13/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

I led the 1st and 3rd pitches. What a great route.Slightly easy for the grade but a fair bit of loose rock makes up for it.

with Baz
Richard Morgan 02/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
Ybot Htulk 02/Jan/10 AltLd

Drove down snow covered lanes to Morwenstow with a lovely blue sky above then enjoyed the walk in and had a good look at the terifying looking Breakaway on Henna (not for me, ever). Nervous laugh when we clapped eyes on Wreckers but knew it was going to be great, and it was.

with Richard
skelf ??/2010 2nd
with duncan campbell
graham knott 21/Dec/09 AltLd O/S

Flippin awesome climb! A long old approach but not as tricky as we thought it would be. There's plenty of tat to use on the final descent to the beach. Lovely sunny wall, very atmospheric. Well worth the trip!

with Phil Webber
Phil79 21/Dec/09 AltLd O/S

great route

with Jiff
sparbus 20/Oct/09 AltLd
with mike b
Paragonthewise 08/Oct/09 2nd O/S

i lead the thrid pitch, went off route, shit myself up, great day out but hate climbing on slate. the climb down was harder than the climb up. but we had a wonderful lunch on the lunch ledge. sun beating down wonderful views...well worth the trek out to it

minexplorer 08/Oct/09 Lead rpt

ahh wreckers....just like home it u wont regret.never anyone around,fantastic setting,satisfyingly high.if little on easy side.

with grant newcombe
minexplorer 28/Sep/09 AltLd

led 2nd and top pitches this time(did 1st an 3rd back in feb)seemed really easy this time.very straight forward climbing but such a fantastic atmosphere and location.

with pete campion
Rog Wilko 10/Sep/09 AltLd

Great adventure though the climbing moves are unmemorable and repetitive. Quite easy for the grade, probably only HS 4a. The crux for me was getting off the beach! That is, if you ignore the approach. I'd suggest you take a pair of pruners to make the descent less bloody. (Seriously!). Debbie led last pitch

with Debbie Wilkinson
Hidden ?/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/09 AltLd
rockjedi12345 ?/Sep/09 Lead
Hidden 17/Aug/09 2nd
lithos 17/Aug/09 AltLd

no hard moves, plenty of gear if not all good. really good route, test all the holds though! Beware - some seriousy loose large blocks on the steep grey wall at end of P3.

Hidden 17/Aug/09 Lead
rockjedi12345 13/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with phill, steve and Rich
Hidden 09/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
chris j 09/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Pleasant climbing, fantastic situation, descent route more stressful than the climb...

with Alan
Hidden 09/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
irish paul 09/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Dave R + Mike D
Jo wood 12/Jul/09 2nd O/S

Absolutly fantastic, lovely climb in an gorgeous setting. the walk to it was well worth it all 50 min of it!

with Dylan Burgess
Hidden 29/Jun/09 2nd β
leonjones 14/Jun/09 AltLd
with Max Streeton
Hidden 14/Jun/09 AltLd
Monkey_Alan 14/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st pitch. VS with no tech. grade tells you how much gear there is! Good holds, but don't look down.

with Stella Moggs, Viskii Chicu
sparkass 13/Jun/09 AltLd O/S


mshorter 13/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with dunc and andrew
culmclimberRob 30/May/09 Lead rpt

lead all 4 pitches awesome day baking hot, note to self more water next time lol and deet got bit to hell on belay at top of 4th pitch before the scramble off but i still love this climb

with Aaron baker
BridgetteB 24/May/09 -

Great first climb, very exciting, particularly enjoyed the third pitch.

with Martin Torbett
BridgetteB 24/May/09 2nd

Great as a first big climb!

with Martin Torbett
Hidden 17/May/09 2nd
thetorbs ?/May/09 Lead O/S

Help note: After stile and bag drop, go left to find best path down rather than down slight path in front of you. On Crag:first bit of gear is by grassy rake about 35 feet up. Look for obvious worn path through grass- its by there! Awesome climb, second pitch is very enjoyable.Do it!

with Bridgette Blackmore
demarcation86 ?/May/09 Lead O/S

Classic. VS for the terrain rather than the technical difficulty.

with Paul
lrandall ?/May/09 Lead O/S

Lead all 3 pitches

with Gareth P
Hidden 19/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
crobinson 19/Apr/09 AltLd

Fantastic!great surroundings,been on the wishlist for a while!

with Tom Last
Hidden 20/Mar/09 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 15/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

Pitches 2 & 3. Good fun but very overgraded.

with Becca
BeccaSnowden 15/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
with Tom
jon thompson27 ?/Mar/09 -
with Alex Thompson
Kate Edhouse 21/Feb/09 AltLd O/S

Lead the 2nd harder pitch... Was great, but easy.

with James Clapham
tombushell ??/2009 2nd
pryan300 ??/2009 AltLd O/S
with T-Bone
paulh1967 ??/2009 -
Hidden 22/Dec/08 2nd
tcfield 12/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
with dan walker
culmclimberRob 11/Dec/08 AltLd O/S

awesome climb deff to be repeated i lead p1 and p3

with tom
mike88 29/Nov/08 AltLd O/S
with Dan Horsham
Johnny Baker 21/Nov/08 -

Check out for

@ndy 11/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/08 Lead
Hidden ?/Oct/08 AltLd
Mike W ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/08 Lead
pezzerrr ?/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
Anna duckett ??/2008 AltLd
Bob Peters ??/2008 -
existing debt ??/2008 -
with Iain a
Hidden 24/Nov/07 2nd dnf
Jim Malo ?/Oct/07 2nd
Hidden 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S
John Kettle 27/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/07 2nd
Hidden 19/Jul/07 Lead dnf
Hidden 17/Jul/07 AltLd
Hidden 07/Jul/07 2nd O/S
Justin T 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S

You won't find easier climbing at the grade though it is bold in places.

with Wifey
AJH 10/Jun/07 AltLd rpt

I led second pitch - did not feel as hard as 4b

with Richard
Dan Shirley 18/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Mark Davies PK 04/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Beesley
Gareth 17/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
with Andrew
andybenham ?/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
rockjedi12345 04/Jan/07 AltLd O/S

very wet and windy, attmospheric!

Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
a_d_tru 10/Sep/06 Lead
with Angie
Moniawl 09/Sep/06 2nd O/S

watch out for dead sheep :p

with rich
Rich A-Wilkes 09/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Monika
manwithacam ?/Sep/06 AltLd

Fabulous route. Easy climbing.

with Martin
Hidden 30/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
sgl 30/Aug/06 AltLd
with Konnie
Dave Kerr 11/Aug/06 Lead
with Jill Kerr
gaz.marshall ?/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
with Steev
Hidden ?/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
moorsy88 ?/Jun/06 2nd O/S

Did this climb along time ago (my first ever outdoor climb) Long forgotten about it and now rediscovered thank's to UKC article. A trip to lead it at some stage is now needed.

Hidden 05/Mar/06 2nd
Mark Kemball 05/Nov/05 AltLd

The worst of the rain held off until we topped out. (I've done it a few times before).

with Nic Dill
mike fenwick ?/Aug/05 Lead
with Lucy
Ben1983 ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
Dale ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S

lead the second pitch probally the best pitch. What a adventure

with johny andy
Katy Nelson 18/Jun/05 2nd
with Mark Kemball
Andy Clarke 12/Jun/05 AltLd O/S

Led P1.

with Johnny, Dale
rockpool ?/Jun/05 Lead rpt

a great climb that still resists slipping away to the beach below

with pol
Hidden ?/May/05 Solo
Hidden 27/Mar/05 Lead dnf
Stone Muppet ??/2005 -
Wayne S ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/04 AltLd
Bob M 05/Aug/04 AltLd
Samuel P 01/Aug/04 2nd
with Gareth, Kevin
Hidden 01/Aug/04 Lead
chris sm ?/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
duncan 19/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
with Sarah-Jane Dobner
Hidden 13/Apr/04 AltLd
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Oct/03 AltLd O/S
jamie ward 14/Sep/03 AltLd O/S
with John Howes
Hidden 24/Aug/03 Lead
BALD EAGLE 02/Aug/03 AltLd
with Karl Rust
AngelaC 01/Jul/03 AltLd

1st AC 2+3 DC (combined - just enough rope!)

Adrian Daniels 12/Apr/03 AltLd
with John Parrott
EllieWoods 12/Apr/03 AltLd O/S

Led p1 & p3

with Trevor
Bob M 08/Sep/02 Lead
with Richard Mott
rockjedi12345 ?/Sep/02 AltLd O/S
with Pete Sanderson
Hidden ?/Jun/02 2nd O/S
SR1970 ?/Sep/01 AltLd O/S
Macca_7 26/Aug/01 Lead O/S

What a cliff amazing place climb is well worthwhile if a little repetative

with Bev Brody
Hidden 20/Aug/01 Lead
Hidden 15/Jul/00 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/00 AltLd
Bob M 19/Jun/00 -
with Jill Stevens
Hidden 06/May/00 AltLd
Mickdenali ??/2000 Lead
with Bob Macleod
brianrunner ??/2000 -
nickdonohue 29/Aug/99 AltLd
with Ashley Hold
Ashley Hold 28/Aug/99 AltLd
with Nick Donahue
Derek Ryden 21/Jul/99 AltLd O/S
with Fiona, Iwan Jones
Hidden 10/Nov/98 AltLd
Hidden 01/Aug/98 Solo
plain kitten ?/Jul/98 Lead
IanGilbertJones 10/Apr/98 AltLd O/S
rockjedi12345 ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Rory Sacree
Tim Sparrow ??/1998 Lead
with Rhiannon
iskra2000 24/Aug/97 AltLd
with John Dale
Bob M 20/Jul/97 Lead
with Chris Bristow
mikej 30/May/97 AltLd
with Nick Salmon
andy_pemberton ?/May/97 AltLd

+ other ascents (Dan Lear)

with Rik Meek
PaulTanton 30/May/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/95 Lead
Andy Say 18/Jul/95 Solo
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
babymoac 09/Dec/94 AltLd
with MTW
colin milton 16/Jul/94 AltLd
with eric milton
Hidden 11/Apr/94 AltLd
daprince ?/Jun/93 AltLd
Hidden 16/Sep/92 -
Iain Thow 10/May/92 AltLd

Led 1&3, pitch 2 the scary one.

with Rob Ivens
Hidden ?/May/92 AltLd O/S
auld al ?/Apr/92 AltLd O/S
rogerskews 26/May/91 AltLd

Fortuitously we found a toilet brush on the boulder beach, and found it very useful on the route!. At the top a lady was sat on the grass and started chatting to us. She had a portable oxygen cylinder which gave her just enough gas to walk slowly from her home to the top of the cliff, watch the climbers come up, chat to them, then slowly walk home again. What a girl !!

with Bryn Roberts
kp64zl ?/May/91 Lead O/S
with Paul
Hidden 14/Apr/91 Lead O/S
sdht ??/1991 -
with Dave Ward
GuyC 04/Aug/90 Lead O/S
with Mike P, Clare
DaveHo ??/1990 Lead O/S
charlesmfrench ??/1988 Lead O/S
with Jane Wingfield
Hidden 10/May/87 Lead O/S
eroica64 05/May/87 Lead

Fantastic adventure.

with Paul Smethurst
Hidden 27/Oct/82 Lead
Mike C 23/Sep/81 AltLd
with Chris Davis
Chris Terrey 12/Jul/81 AltLd
with Gerry Dunford
Andy Chubb 25/May/81 AltLd
with Andy Roberts
mark-abz 17/Apr/81 AltLd
with Lionell
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
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High HVS
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High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 114
High 4c
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Low 4c
High 4b
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Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
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Votes cast 109
Votes cast 115
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