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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
A mean start gains good climbing above. Make bouldery moves up the crack on the left side of the low overhang. Carry on up the narrow offset grooves to a tree. Move right to a short crack. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start 5 feet left of the fallen block. Pull steeply up the crack, using a good jug on the right. Move up and slightly left to the corner/groove. Go up this to the tree at the top, step right and tackle the centre of the slab direct.
M. Ward, R. Kingston 17/Jul/1984. Route name changed (offensive name).
Ticklists
Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
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Whitt
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Symonds Yat)