Rockfax Description
Very hard moves on the lower wall are followed by steeper stuff above. Start at a shallow 'Y' crack just right of the hand-ledge of Letterbox Wall/Hangover.
From the top of the 'Y' crack make hard moves to the deep horizontal break and continue directly up the steep upper wall to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
From a Y crack to the right of letterbox wall make hard technical moves up to the break. Continue with enthusiasm up the steep upper wall to victory.

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

StuartBlackler 23/Sep/17 Lead O/S

Very good, tricky starting face climbing, feels a little highball, boulder mat helps, then the rest is juggy with one big'ish move and great gear.

with Chris Bulman
El Swiftos! 02/Sep/17 Lead rpt
with Waydan
Marl 13/Aug/17 TR

Traction solo

mark schramm 24/Apr/17 TR dog
felixwilkins 20/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Will Mortimer 02/Apr/17 Lead dnf

Has become a nemesis route of mine. Failed on two occasions now!

with Derwood
Hidden 01/Jan/17 Lead
Stroppy 30/Dec/16 Lead G/U

Have to admit I found the slab rather challenging and it took me a few attempts! THe pocket at the top of the slab was quite slimey too :(

Sam Husband 30/Dec/16 2nd O/S
with Woger, Ed
Chris Ebbutt 26/Oct/16 2nd
timreynolds 26/Oct/16 Lead G/U

Top half only - started up Hangover

suds_01 06/Oct/16 TR dog
with Stu Bracher
gem_stone12 03/Oct/16 2nd
Jonam 04/Jun/16 -
with Jim
Hidden 04/Jun/16 -
Ed Babs 28/May/16 Lead O/S

Did the top half before, so moved left up the flakes.

with AlexD
Jack J Keogan 13/May/16 Lead β
mark schramm 07/May/16 Lead dnf
with Christie, tim
timreynolds 07/May/16 2nd
hornbywill ??/2016 Lead rpt

Not sure when

wi11 30/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Louisa Reynolds
Tom Seccombe 08/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Dave Mayes 31/Jul/15 Lead O/S
timreynolds 31/Jul/15 2nd
NickJH 31/Jul/15 TR dog
with Andy Dunhill
John Tanner 13/May/15 2nd β
with Gareth, Derwood Brooks
dbrooks 13/May/15 Lead G/U

came off at the start first time round, decent cam protects you until you reach the break

Ciaran Mullan 05/Apr/15 TR β
Murphy_98 ?/Apr/15 TR dog
kingholmesy ??/2015 Lead O/S
with Colin
iantoday 23/Sep/14 TR RP

after several attempts on the bottom section over the years finally managed it ground up, not sure will ever be ready to lead it!

with Jamie Parffrey
Tom Seccombe 05/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Ben Woods
clmacdonald 19/Jul/14 2nd
tskelhon 19/Jul/14 Lead O/S
RKirke 03/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Jack W
timreynolds 02/Jul/14 TR

Second half

Sean Kelly 02/Jul/14 TR

Repeat ascent

Hidden 26/May/14 TR
akawd40 21/May/14 TR RP
Animal87 21/May/14 Lead rpt
gg4419 05/May/14 Lead RP

After placing high nut on lead and slipping on loose crystal, lead clean from the ground.

Popkids 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Kafoozalem
Sean Kelly 16/Apr/14 Lead

Repeat ascent.

with Harry Pearce
Macca_7 10/Apr/14 Lead O/S

A tricky pull to get established on the sloper with no gear is the meat of the route. Whats left is steep and enjoyable!

LJC 30/Mar/14 Lead dnf

Found the slab move really hard. Do you really commit to the awful sloper?!

with Theo
El3ctroFuzz 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Big jugs, nice climbing.

with Tristan Sherlock
Alex moore 16/Mar/14 Lead
Nick Biven ??/2014 -
pablosordo ??/2014 Lead O/S
Mike Goldthorp 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Nice little granite number, defo worth a star. Bouldery start and then a a juggy romp with a powerful move in it, awesome!

with Henry, Tara, Paul S
Hidden 22/Sep/13 2nd
Paul_southgate68 22/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Mike Goldthorp
Sean Kelly 26/Aug/13 TR


with Harry Pearce
timmyhobby 15/Aug/13 TR O/S
joese7en 08/Aug/13 Solo O/S

Straight up the wall?

hornbywill 23/Jul/13 2nd O/S
tim exley 23/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Great climbing

alice fuller 10/Jul/13 2nd O/S

"Look at that old man -he's really good!"

Russell Blackaller 03/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Bouldering at the bottom and big powerful move at the top. My sort of route for sure.

with Matt W
andrea83 30/Jun/13 TR RP
with Andy
monkeytennis 30/Jun/13 TR dnf
Motown 08/Jun/13 Lead RP

Hard start. Took a couple of falls from top of 'slab' onto mats. Could get gear in the low crack, but not much help if you come off. A relief to get to the top.

with Luke
Caspian Johnson 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Julian
Jordon Fleming 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S

first e2 onsite :) start was tricky but after that was just jug pulling. think its better than hangover/letter box

nickstephens 20/Aug/12 Lead dnf
Justin T 21/Jul/12 Lead

Good to put this to bed. Pushy move on the slab but the upper wall is dreamy.

Sean Kelly 04/Jul/12 TR

Only 2 hard moves on this but they are hard!

with Dave Coley
Chaman 04/Jul/12 TR

Top half only, started up Rock Lobster - one really stretchy move from second to 3rd flake

mark schramm 04/Jul/12 TR
oliver.ghill91 28/Jun/12 Lead O/S
andy_pemberton 27/Jun/12 Lead

Bottom felt okay (small alien). Top has great big moves as the gear recedes below...

with Steve Gibson
dohart 19/Jun/12 2nd dnf
with stu bradbury
Hidden 19/May/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 02/May/12 Lead RP
Hidden 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Willbur 25/Mar/12 TR dnf

Tried this 6 times, very tricky start!

sman3333 24/Aug/11 2nd

first move is a strain but after that routine

Hidden 16/Aug/11 TR rpt
richiebongo 03/Aug/11 Lead RP

The rp0 put in sideways at the top of the crack actually held a short fall. Many attempts and hard down climbing. Hard to commit to.

with Gwen Thomson, Jon Didymus
tomwheeler 01/Jul/11 TR O/S
with 2 Degrees Climbing Club
mark schramm 29/Apr/11 TR rpt
Hidden 13/Apr/11 Lead dog
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
pudding 07/Apr/11 Lead dog

went up then downclimbed and rested on the first cam, not a propper dogging as i was about 2 feet off the floor then lowered down before commiting to go for the pocket under the flake, easier climbig and good gear above this.

with mike mason, phil jarvis, john phethean
njlyons 12/Feb/11 TR dog
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2011 -
Bristoldave 20/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Bottom wall is scary.

Hidden 01/Aug/10 TR dog
mreynolds 29/Jul/10 TR dog
timreynolds 29/Jul/10 TR

Top half only - started up Rock Lobster

lukea 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Nathan M, Al
Hidden 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/10 2nd β
JPGR 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
dale1968 28/May/10 2nd rpt

pre placed gear top roped

with Tom
jcook1980 17/May/10 2nd
with Dan Walker
tcfield 27/Apr/10 Lead RP
Ben Vieyra 27/Apr/10 Lead RP
shaun.yandell 13/Mar/10 TR rpt

very fun and think alot climb. it's a must try.

with richy mardel
alaan 14/Feb/10 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2010 TR
Hidden ??/2010 Lead RP
Brown 31/Dec/09 TR O/S
with Harry Westaway
w.pettet-smith 30/Sep/09 Lead O/S

with a boulder mat- bottom bit a bit ankle snapping for my taste. can understand the name- the big move out right felt a bit 'go'ey. took a few up and down climbs to commit. nice route, i'd give it a star.

with jo
jbulger 30/Sep/09 2nd
with Will Pettet Smith
Hidden 29/Aug/09 Lead dnf
dmoir 13/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Ceri
Ceridwen 13/Aug/09 2nd dog
with Dave Muir
Hidden 12/Aug/09 TR
nblackbeard 05/Aug/09 Lead RP

Cool climb :-). A balancey lower section followed by a reachy strong upper. Fell on first attempt moving up from the sloper grrr. The bottom bit is fairly bold!

PaulTanton 11/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/09 Lead β
Hidden 07/Jun/09 Lead RP
Hidden 05/Jun/09 TR
TheGuns 24/May/09 Lead O/S

Climbed with E3 start, very pumpy

Reeges 02/May/09 Lead O/S

Great route, lived up to expectations. Very reachy!

OliBoyes 10/Jan/09 Lead O/S
with Harry Smale
Mr Tickle 06/Dec/08 Lead dnf

Fell on the move to the slopey first break. Bold nearer the ground. Definatly be back.

with davenev
Hidden ?/Oct/08 Lead O/S
henbot 13/Sep/08 TR dnf

Could do all apart from too short for the last move! bohoo!

with Ben Bradford
Justin T 17/Jun/08 Lead dnf

Does what it says on the tin. Now have good set of knee bruises - owww!

with Rich
sharmawho? 23/May/08 Lead
with Dave
sharmawho? ??/2008 TR RP
with Shunt
Tim M ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Emma
climbergg ??/2008 2nd
dewrats ??/2008 -
with Oli Boyes , Dave Searle, Chris Barr
Chris_barr ??/2008 Lead O/S
pm03jgs 07/Oct/07 TR dnf
jen232 04/Aug/07 TR

arms just gave way 3/4 the way up

with heather/JC
sam coward 09/Jun/07 TR RP
with Tim, Andy, Liz
Hidden 28/Apr/07 TR O/S
Dave Searle 22/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with sim
eddy-on-the-rocks ??/2007 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
sebrider ??/2007 Lead O/S

Most gear pre-placed as partner failed!

Hidden ??/2007 -
climber sim ??/2007 -
dan gibson 14/May/06 Lead O/S
Bruce Kerr 10/Jul/05 2nd
with Graham Stein
Hidden 05/Aug/04 2nd rpt
Hidden 05/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Gibson27 ??/2004 2nd
Hidden 18/Oct/03 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/03 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/01 Lead O/S
tompercy 10/Jun/01 2nd
Marti999 ??/2000 -
andy_pemberton ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
CraigMac1 ??/2000 -
Frostie ??/1999 Lead O/S
with Frank Horby
Mark Kemball 25/Oct/97 Lead
with Bill McKee
timreynolds 05/Jun/96 2nd dnf
with Andy Leivers
Hidden ??/1996 Solo
pmot ??/1993 TR
Cowflinger ?/Jul/92 -
with Brad
Hidden ??/1991 Solo O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/90 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Mar/90 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/May/89 Solo O/S
Pete Nugent 26/Jul/87 Lead dnf
with John Derbyshire
Hidden 16/Jun/85 Lead rpt
Simon cook ?/Aug/78 Lead
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High E3
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Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
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