110m. climb to the right of Aquafresh and the left of Gondola with the Wind

C. Millar, R.G. Webb 27/Jan/1990

Ticklists: 3 star Scottish winter.

buffalo606 15/Feb/16 AltLd
Hidden 12/Feb/16 -
Kyrros 09/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Definitely a 3 star route. Enjoyable all the way to the top.

Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 19/Mar/15 AltLd
Hidden 19/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
nclarey 16/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Led a single short pitch of good ice to the ledge. Excellent route. Then proceeded to break my ankle on the descent back to the car.

Matt Reed 13/Mar/15 AltLd

P1 and p4. Adrian p2 and 3 and traversed left to avoid house sized cornice.. Cornice collapsed as I stepped up. Left hanging off single grivel lanyard.

Hidden 13/Mar/15 AltLd
Karlos 16/Feb/15 Lead O/S

Finally found route after deep wade from Easy Gully. P1 nice and long, and sufficiently steep. P2 climbed continuation ice, but then headed left onto wide ledge to obvious pegs and tag. Rightwards exit looked too steep for IV, but appears to be the true line. Abbed off from tat due to unknown but certainly large cornice situation, and late hour (we still missed the flippin' gondela!).

fuzzysheep01 16/Feb/15 2nd O/S

First 2 pitches only. Superb ice but large cornice and dodgy approach slopes.

MartF 15/Feb/15 AltLd

Split into 4 pitches. Cornice turned on the right but quite soft to get through.

carl_123 15/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
John Workman 14/Feb/15 AltLd

Good nick. Easy day

with Billy, Lex
smithjmw46 10/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Incredible route! split the steep ice pitch in two after seeing the pegs and glory, then realised I'd dropped lee right in it. Stuff in the shade was still solid, bits in the sun where no way near perfect. Very warm.

davkeo 10/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Soloed first pitch and brought up second on insitu tat. Crux is melting which made for an interesting step out right.

cearbhalld 10/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
mussonlr 10/Feb/15 AltLd
patrickhoey32 09/Feb/15 2nd
arose 08/Feb/15 AltLd

Good ice. Traversed a long way right (above Maneater I think) to cut the cornice.

with Helen Rennard
Dougbart 04/Jan/15 AltLd
with Iain
Hidden 04/Jan/15 AltLd
bandersnatch ??/2015 -
with Mairi B
Hidden ??/2015 -
Adamski1986 18/Jan/14 AltLd dnf

Led pitch one, Adrian set a belay to the side of the steep ice pitch, I led but backed off at the top bulge as it was snow ice and didn't think a screw would hold if I fell. Ab down. Enjoyable day, shame we didn't finish but will be back!!

Andy Syme 06/Apr/13 Lead dnf

Definitely out of condition. Abed off after pitch 1. Will come back next year.

Kirill 17/Mar/13 AltLd dnf

Abbed off after P1. Rotten ice. Scary.

mike.moss 17/Mar/13 AltLd
ferdia 26/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

First 2 pitches only. Top pitch melting.

Gordon Lacey 24/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
Scott Rankin 24/Feb/13 AltLd
malc 22/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with Paul Scott
ramsy71 21/Feb/13 2nd
with k
6aPunter ??/2013 -
Hidden 17/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
paul91 15/Feb/12 2nd

lead final pitch.

with mike kennedy
sdi 15/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1.

with Mike W
kenneM 15/Feb/12 Lead
with Paul Elliott
BorisVBlade 13/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
with Sam Thompson
Hidden 12/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Feb/12 2nd
Si ?/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
with Luke
Hidden 29/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
Keith-Getoutadventures 29/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

k1,n2,j3. nice route, not perfect ice but good enough. mono's kept ripping making me wish i had duals at times. fun. windy and pish viz.

RKernan 27/Jan/12 AltLd dog
Hidden 26/Jan/12 Lead
Hidden 15/Jan/12 AltLd dnf
jaggy bunnet 15/Jan/12 AltLd
andybroadway 14/Jan/12 2nd
with Jeremy Morris
Liam FLeming ??/2012 -
with simon edwards
ashpreston ??/2012 -
Hidden ?/Dec/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead
Big Lee 07/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Quality route. Definately felt like V,5 today with some sustained steep climbing below the easy ground at the top.

Mountain Llama 06/Mar/11 AltLd

Found the route in pretty good nick, although screws not 100% & needed to clear a bit of joss for good ice. Lead P2 which was steepest V 4 to date. Many thanks to the cornice tunneler! Top notch route.

with Paul S
markfairbank 06/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Steep for IV and didn't find too much good gear - the ice was good for the axes but abit soft for screws. Was very pleased to see the hole in the cornice at the top - prevented trying to dry tool up an off-width chimney! Led P1 and P3.

with Ian Moore
Hidden 26/Feb/11 2nd O/S
Murilo Lessa 15/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
with Alex Desborough
morsy 12/Feb/11 AltLd

as others have noted, pretty steep for IV!

with gerhard mors
Jim Slater 12/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Great route. Phil had to tunnel through the cornice.

smcw ?/Feb/11 Lead O/S

Cornice falling down!

Hidden 30/Jan/11 AltLd
joeydurkin 30/Jan/11 AltLd
with Patch
Andrew Barker 28/Jan/11 Lead O/S

Felt like V,4 or V,5 on the day. I belayed lower than the usual ledge so led the whole of the steep part in one. Thanks go to the unknown heroes who had dug a hole through the cornice on a previous day!

with John Barker
chapmand 27/Jan/11 AltLd

The route was in the sun all day so the ice was very soft which meant screws were just pulling out. There was a tunnel through the cornice.

with Jon Sanders, Guy Wilson
Guy Wilson 27/Jan/11 -
with Jon Sanders, Dave Chapman
Ken Applegate 26/Jan/11 AltLd

Aonach Mor seems to be in very good condition today. Led P2, which was quite steep for the grade. Good fun.

with Scott Kirkhope, Dave Buckett
robinsi197 23/Jan/11 AltLd
with Bryn
Hidden 23/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Ollie B 07/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

ice at the start of the 2nd pitch off the belay was pretty steep, probs V

with J.Monypenny
31770 ??/2011 -
luckyjim ??/2011 AltLd
with A Cameron
adie84 ??/2011 -
stuaart 31/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

I led P1, Neil led P2. Very warm day, around 4 degrees at 900m. Quite lean and what ice and snow there was in the gully was pretty mushy / worrying. Not much gear if you can't get ice screws in :(

with Neil Redgrave
gripped01 12/Dec/10 AltLd

Abbed of 2nd pitch, not in condition

with Dave Tait
Hidden ?/Dec/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Dec/10 Lead
philhilo 03/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Found climb in low vis. V fat snow ice. Bottom pitch good steep 4. 2nd pitch full on 80 degree for 10m+ - give it tech 5 on the day. Su dropped off traversing back down into line with axes in v soft steep snow. Biggest cornice ever on the top, 15m! Abbed off. Class route.

with su
Hidden 03/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden ?/Mar/09 Lead
Merlin 23/Feb/09 AltLd dnf

Climbed pitch 1&2, due to lack of ice finished up Aquafresh (IV,4*).

with Alex Elliot
Hidden 23/Feb/09 AltLd
wheelsucker 23/Feb/09 AltLd
Ken Applegate 23/Feb/09 Lead

Ended up climbing pitch 1 of White Shark and then the final pitch of Aquafresh, due to the final pitch of White Shark looking like it would collapse. Turns out the final pitch of Aquafresh was probably just as serious!

with Dave Buckett, Hannah Evans
Skinny Kin 20/Feb/09 Lead dog

Coming in from Aquafresh from the 1st pitch. The 2nd pitch of White Shark was quite steep for a grade IV; more like V. Very good ice. Shame about a rest on ice axe.

with Piotr Bamberski
Hidden 19/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
Dunx 10/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
with Joe M, Adam
Hidden 02/Feb/09 AltLd
benclimbing ?/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
Mark Salter ?/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
with Myles Jordan
Hidden ?/Jan/09 AltLd
alan wilson ?/Jan/09 Solo O/S

good ice, steep in corner with about 1m cornice at top, steeper finish than Typhoon

centurion05 ??/2009 -
simon_D 29/Dec/08 AltLd
with Roger C
gregor ?/Mar/08 -
lost.arrow 10/Feb/08 AltLd
with Stu Sherwood
Hidden ?/Feb/08 -
Andrew Sloan 20/Jan/08 Lead rpt

Led both pitches, very delicate move through the cornice about 40ft above last gear.

with Steve Grove
garethMottram ??/2008 -
with Charlie Netherton, Ed Lemon
Hidden 18/Feb/07 AltLd O/S
galpinos 17/Feb/07 2nd O/S
with Tim
alaan 11/Feb/07 AltLd

Mainly good ice, tad thin in parts.

with Jim
Hidden 11/Feb/07 AltLd rpt
alaan 21/Jan/07 2nd

First pitch only.

with Jim and Mat
mattyork2 21/Jan/07 2nd dnf
with alaan and jim
stokesrees 12/Jan/07 AltLd
with Peter Mackenzie
luckyjim ?/Mar/06 AltLd
with A Cameron
Joe Nunn ??/2006 -
with mik preece
SteveM 13/Mar/05 AltLd
with KeithW
Gman ?/Mar/05 AltLd

Abbed off below cornice.

with Steve, Carl
Sandy P ?/Mar/05 Lead
with LukeO
petehaz ?/Feb/05 2nd O/S

Excellent route, great conditions

with Eoin
seanyt ?/Feb/05 AltLd
alpinist63 ?/Feb/05 AltLd
Hidden 29/Jan/05 AltLd
Colin Mcgregor 29/Jan/05 AltLd
climbtim 27/Jan/05 2nd
uphillnow 26/Jan/05 Lead

Good ice, steep. Excellent

with Phil Gibson
Hidden 23/Jan/05 2nd O/S
keith leonard ??/2005 AltLd
with steve mead
Chris L Hill 21/Feb/04 2nd
with Di Gilbert, Stuart Shaw
akhughes ?/Feb/04 AltLd O/S
DerwentDiluted ?/Feb/04 AltLd
with J. Ellson
Jim Haydock 12/Mar/03 2nd
with Dave Hollinger
Hidden ?/Feb/03 Lead
kato'sdad 21/Feb/02 2nd
with Giles Trussel
mark turnbull ??/2002 -
Hidden ?/Mar/00 Lead
David Horwood ?/Mar/00 -
oscaig ??/2000 AltLd O/S

Led long and run-out top pitch (bomber neve' but no good for screws so just kept going and going)

with Steve Reeves
plain kitten ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 AltLd
NeilGriffiths ??/2000 -
with Adrian Pedley, Paul Tucker
markharro 25/Jan/98 AltLd

Felt hard..climbing with Allan and Thomas

with Allan
Smith42 01/Apr/97 -
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High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Votes cast 34
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 30
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set