UKC

17m.

Rockfax Description
A good pitch of two halves. Take the tricky wall between corners to a ledge. The very thin crack on the right is short-lived. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Large loose block at the top now removed.

Worth your attention. Start on a mini-pedestal as for Come to Mother. Step out left and climb an initial wall on welcome layaways to the commodious ledge. Step up leftwards to big jugs then step back right (crossing Come to Mother) and climb the airy, thin crack with short-lived difficulty to gain double belay rings shared with Hong Kong Garden. Seven bolt runners.

Gordon A Jenkin, Chris Bonner 13/Mar/2016.

Ticklists

Wye Valley Salathe Challenge , CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , 6Bs with stars near Bristol , Wyndcliff Quarry Sport Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
George Hughes 1 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Start felt absolutely fine at the grade not sure why the WV guide says its tricky, but the crux off the ledge felt stiff for 6b especially with all the polish and didn't feel well protected with a fall landing you back on the ledge
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Start felt absolutely fine at the grade not sure why the WV guide says its tricky, but the crux off the ledge felt stiff for 6b especially with all the polish and didn't feel well protected with a fall landing you back on the ledge
Masterbeta 5 Jun, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Large block in upper section has now gone. Upper crux is no longer well protected however, this does not affect the grade although now a little spicer.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Large block in upper section has now gone. Upper crux is no longer well protected however, this does not affect the grade although now a little spicer.
Tall Oak 25 Nov, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Spicy start. Went AWOL too much to the left. Second crux was cool and committing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Spicy start. Went AWOL too much to the left. Second crux was cool and committing.
PaulJepson 28 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Be aware that the big block you stand on to make the final moves rocks. I'd estimate >ton in weight so don't yard on it with your hands. You can use the leftward flake for hands until you're established on the thin headwall crack.
Show beta
βeta: Be aware that the big block you stand on to make the final moves rocks. I'd estimate >ton in weight so don't yard on it with your hands. You can use the leftward flake for hands until you're established on the thin headwall crack.
Old Danny 23 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Thought it was very hard, maybe just the hang over talking
Show beta
βeta: Thought it was very hard, maybe just the hang over talking

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