Restricted Access
One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.
Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"
Rockfax Description
A good pitch of two halves. Take the tricky wall between corners to a ledge. The very thin crack on the right is short-lived. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Large loose block at the top now removed.
Worth your attention. Start on a mini-pedestal as for Come to Mother. Step out left and climb an initial wall on welcome layaways to the commodious ledge. Step up leftwards to big jugs then step back right (crossing Come to Mother) and climb the airy, thin crack with short-lived difficulty to gain double belay rings shared with Hong Kong Garden. Seven bolt runners.
Gordon A Jenkin, Chris Bonner 13/Mar/2016.
Ticklists
Wye Valley Salathe Challenge , CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , 6Bs with stars near Bristol
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tall Oak | 25 Nov, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Spicy start. Went AWOL too much to the left. Second crux was cool and committing. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Spicy start. Went AWOL too much to the left. Second crux was cool and committing. |
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| PaulJepson | 28 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Be aware that the big block you stand on to make the final moves rocks. I'd estimate >ton in weight so don't yard on it with your hands. You can use the leftward flake for hands until you're established on the thin headwall crack. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Be aware that the big block you stand on to make the final moves rocks. I'd estimate >ton in weight so don't yard on it with your hands. You can use the leftward flake for hands until you're established on the thin headwall crack. |
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| Old Danny | 23 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Thought it was very hard, maybe just the hang over talking | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Thought it was very hard, maybe just the hang over talking |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wyndcliff Quarry
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