Rockfax Description
The central line of weakness through the stacked overhangs is a spectacular climb on jugs, a couple of which are a touch wobbly.
Protection is good. Start at the large cage beneath the overhangs.
From the top of the cage step rightwards onto the slab beneath the line. Climb on good holds to twin pegs and then another peg a little higher on the left. Grasp a large flat flange and pull around the overhang above on big holds, the top is a little higher. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start a few feet right of the cage, crux 5c move to start gains the obvious sidepull pocket feature above the lip then mantel. Technical crux despatched, the route follows the obvious line up past the pegs (lower one replaced 2016) to a hard move through the roof. Pumpy. Back the pegs up!

If you start atop the cage ... you haven't done the route! Probably E2 5b that way. E3/4 6a if you boulder out from the bottom of the gully wall to start :)

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Steve Woollard 08/Nov/17 2nd
with Steve Thorpe
timorme 21/Jun/17 TR rpt

started slightly right so off route really think it was easier then the actual route

with Steve (kayley)
m.powell02 07/Jun/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/17 Lead dog
Lee_Meaden 13/Apr/17 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Mar/17 Lead dog
Nathan Chrismas 15/Mar/17 Lead RP

First E2 lead, 5b version. Got all the gear in on the onsight attempt but just missed the top jug to pull over. Pulled the ropes and finished it off after a rest.

with Russell
felixwilkins 11/Mar/17 Lead O/S
Ana Broad 25/Jun/16 TR
with Emma
Hidden 25/Jun/16 TR
John Mcshea 13/May/16 Lead O/S

Possibly done years ago

shoulders 08/May/16 Lead dog

very hot day , weak arms and head. successive attempts just got worse and worse. Time to get fit.

with pete lewis
Hidden 21/Feb/16 2nd rpt
alice fuller 06/Jan/16 Lead rpt

Cage start at dusk.did again in Nov, one of Saturns' rings definitly flexing.

keepguessing ??/2016 Lead β
with Tom D
Hidden 28/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Joe Costello 30/May/15 2nd
tobydunford 10/May/15 Lead β
ferdia 10/May/15 Lead O/S
Andy Moles 10/May/15 2nd
with Ferdia
BC 10/Apr/15 Lead

Did the super direct start

dbrooks 01/Apr/15 Lead G/U

fell first time round for no obvious reason, good fun

with Dr Dave
Hidden 05/Jan/15 Lead O/S
DredStripe ??/2015 Lead G/U
kingholmesy ??/2015 Lead O/S

From the bottom of the gully, albeit that I checked out the boulder problem start before tieing on.

FATBOYFAT ??/2015 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
omaskrey 21/Sep/14 2nd dnf

Fell off at the pegs after retrieving all the gear and couldn't get back on. Some fairly loose rocks all over...

KDhruev 21/Sep/14 Lead RP
with Oli M
Hidden 10/Sep/14 TR dog
Mr Tickle 09/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Lovely position

with RusseyB
timorme 27/May/14 TR dnf
with Dan Orme
BC 26/May/14 Lead O/S
Dean Russell 04/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/14 2nd dnf
alice fuller 08/Apr/14 Lead β

Previously seconded clean 13/10/11 with Pete.

willhornby 11/Mar/14 Lead

E2 6a for low start E1 5b for cage good gear easy climbing jug pulling fun

hornbywill 02/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Did low start up the headwall E2 6a reckon E1 5b for the cage start

Nick Biven ??/2014 -
petecallaghan 17/Nov/13 TR rpt
Russell Blackaller 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Started the old school way. great move up to the ledge and well worth 5c.

with Justin
josh.sims 03/Jul/13 TR
Chris dyer 03/Jul/13 TR dnf
with Jodie pointer, Josh sims
paul reah 24/Jun/13 TR O/S

Threw a rope up for this, as i have never led anything of that grade, however the powerfull climbing suited my style and stormed up it no problems :) will be back for lead when ive worked my way up to that grade!!

with Tim Orme
timorme 24/Jun/13 TR dog
with Paul Reah
Dibdawg 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Dean177 06/Apr/13 2nd O/S
mark schramm 26/Jan/13 TR rpt
Hidden 26/Jan/13 TR O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Davebryant ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
kyebrooks 27/Jul/12 TR dog
Katie Comer 24/Jul/12 TR dnf

Managed about two-thirds of the climb before my arms wore out!

with Dan Cox
JamesC-H123 17/Jul/12 TR
Hidden 17/Jul/12 TR rpt
JeromeT ?/Jul/12 Solo
rustaldo 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Started from the cage as per rockfax. Hueg jug pulling all the way. Abbed off.

francois 25/Jun/12 Lead dog

I found placing back up gear at the pegs too strenuous for me. I'll be back!

with Ben
Hinchrn 25/Jun/12 2nd dog

Would have been a nice cheecy onsight, if hadn't slapped on the only bad hold on the route.

Tom Seccombe 13/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Alex, Talk
mark schramm 30/May/12 Lead rpt
with Lyndsay
mark schramm 28/Mar/12 Lead dog

One rest.

with stuart
James Mitchelmore 05/Mar/12 Lead O/S
burto 27/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with steve
Brian H 06/Nov/11 Lead rpt
with Rik
just one more 10/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Svenn G
Tom D 22/Aug/11 Lead rpt


Will Hodges 03/Aug/11 TR dnf
with Ja Cromwell
Angusmc 24/Jul/11 TR RP
Hidden 03/Jul/11 TR O/S
richardr 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Pegs will go very soon. Back them up folks!

nickdonohue ?/Jun/11 2nd
with Dave Coley
John Henry Wynn 19/May/11 Lead O/S


Hidden 19/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/May/11 2nd
mark schramm 11/May/11 Lead dog
with emma
mark schramm 01/May/11 Lead dog

One rest after the pegs. Should have just kept going the jugs are all there. Just a mad scramble would have got me to the top.

with rupert
Hidden 02/Apr/11 TR dnf
Eike 02/Apr/11 TR
Hidden 02/Apr/11 TR
abicampbell ?/Apr/11 TR dnf
Joe Richards 22/Mar/11 TR O/S
Hidden 06/Mar/11 2nd rpt
Luke90 05/Mar/11 Lead dog
dmaldonado 05/Mar/11 2nd dog
dale1968 18/Feb/11 2nd dnf
with Tom
Hidden 18/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Bristoldave 15/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with nick
crimpy69 08/Jan/11 TR O/S
MH123 21/Oct/10 TR rpt
Jack_F 21/Oct/10 Solo β
jellyfish82 25/Sep/10 2nd O/S
markv21 15/Sep/10 Lead β
Tim M 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Emma
climbergg 12/Sep/10 2nd
Duncan Campbell 31/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Wasn't massively psyched for this but had a go anyway....pumpy but not too bad, didn't use the leg over rest at the 'flat flange' so it cant be massively needed! This is my anti-style so pretty happy.

with Henry
Hidden 30/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 22/Aug/10 2nd dog
Tom D 22/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 24/Jul/10 Lead β
Hidden 19/Jun/10 TR O/S
raku 15/Jun/10 Lead RP
with Beata Rakowska
Hidden 02/Jun/10 TR
Kate Edhouse 02/Jun/10 TR dog
with niccy noo
adam cooper*super* 08/Apr/10 Lead O/S

really nice, easy topout!

chris j 07/Mar/10 2nd
with Ben Bradford
henbot 01/Mar/10 2nd
with Dom
pezzerrr 06/Feb/10 Lead O/S
thomb ?/Feb/10 -
andy_pemberton ?/Jan/10 2nd
botster ??/2010 -
Dave Searle ??/2010 Solo

by mistake.

Hidden ??/2010 TR
Hidden 28/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Oct/09 Lead rpt
chris j 03/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Doug
Hidden ?/Oct/09 TR RP
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Lead β
Hidden 11/Sep/09 Lead rpt
petecallaghan 04/Jul/09 Lead dnf

Lead to pegs, messed up gear twice so climbed 3 times to pegs then fell off roof. Top roped clean.

Hidden 04/Jul/09 TR rpt
pedro.silva 20/Jun/09 TR dog

Started on the cage. Pumped out at the top, awesome climb with really good holds. Reachy move to a very good jugg coming out of the overhang

with Jiff & Tony
graham knott 20/Jun/09 TR O/S

From the cage up. Brilliant climb! Maybe lead this one day!

with Pedro and Tony
Gingerdarren 21/May/09 Lead rpt

Stared off on the cage, have ascended from the boulder crux but not this time

with Jo Bulger
w.pettet-smith ?/May/09 Lead

bit of beta from josh- leg over the block at pegs made it do-able. silly amount of fun. so so steep but not very hard.

with josh
MH123 26/Mar/09 2nd dog
Jack_F 26/Mar/09 Lead G/U
with Max hodges
Popkids 24/Jan/09 TR

I started the route from the lip just off the cage.

with Kafoozalem
Mark Stevenson 10/Jan/09 Lead O/S
with Ed Southwood
w.pettet-smith ??/2009 Lead rpt

hang over made it a lot harder than the first time. very satisfying route.

with steve
Hidden ??/2009 TR O/S
Reeges 01/Nov/08 Lead O/S

Great fun route! Massive holds just well spaced. Back up the pegs. Crux to start, spotter helpful.

Justin T 21/Aug/08 Lead RP

Feckin' ell that's steep!

with Crispin
nblackbeard 25/Jun/08 Lead RP
with Darren Russell & Gemma Foster
nblackbeard 23/Jun/08 TR RP

Amazing Overhang with a good bouldering start!!

with Darren Russell
Hidden 21/Feb/08 2nd
sharmawho? 21/Feb/08 Lead
with Oli, Nick
dewrats ??/2008 Lead O/S
sharmawho? ??/2008 2nd O/S
with Oli, Chris, Nick , Dave
Steerpike 03/Nov/07 Lead dog
with Tommo
Dave Searle 21/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Marti999 24/May/07 Lead
WLNesfield 16/Mar/07 TR dnf
with Mark Dormon
Hidden ?/Jan/07 TR dog
OliBoyes ??/2007 -
with Oli Boyes, Nick Baron, Dave Searle
climber sim ??/2007 -
eddy-on-the-rocks ??/2007 Lead O/S
bronsonite 24/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Alex Cannon
tuftynick ?/Aug/05 Solo rpt

Solo from the bottom of the gully! Grew up climbing here as a kid.

JeromeT ??/2005 Lead
Ben1983 ?/Jun/04 Lead rpt
dannyboy83 ?/May/03 2nd O/S
with Chris Havill
Hidden ??/2003 TR
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden 01/Feb/99 TR
Hidden 18/Jan/99 TR
Roget 15/Jun/97 Lead O/S
with jon
markw ??/1997 TR RP
leadmat ?/Jul/95 Lead
Dringo ??/1995 -
kristian 01/Feb/94 Lead
pmot ??/1994 -
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Hidden ??/1991 -
Derek Ryden 26/Nov/90 Lead O/S
with Ian Parnell, Andy Turner
Mark Kemball ??/1990 TR
clark alston ?/Apr/86 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
Simon cook ??/1978 -
Simon cook ??/1974 -
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 23
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 21
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set