Rockfax Description
The central line of weakness through the stacked overhangs is a spectacular climb on jugs, a couple of which are a touch wobbly.
Protection is good. Start at the large cage beneath the overhangs.
From the top of the cage step rightwards onto the slab beneath the line. Climb on good holds to twin pegs and then another peg a little higher on the left. Grasp a large flat flange and pull around the overhang above on big holds, the top is a little higher. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start a few feet right of the cage, crux 5c move to start gains the obvious sidepull pocket feature above the lip then mantel. Technical crux despatched, the route follows the obvious line up past the pegs (lower one replaced 2016) to a hard move through the roof. Pumpy. Back the pegs up!

If you start atop the cage ... you haven't done the route! Probably E2 5b that way. E3/4 6a if you boulder out from the bottom of the gully wall to start :)

Ticklists

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Gilster 16 Sep Lead Cage start. Pumpy on lead, had to let off a few power screams :)
with Jo Taylor
Cage start. Pumpy on lead, had to let off a few power screams :)
with Jo Taylor
rohanpawlowski 13 Sep Lead RP
rohanpawlowski 31 Aug Lead dog
Hidden 31 Aug 2nd rpt
petecallaghan 20 Aug 2nd rpt
EllieWoods 20 Aug 2nd rpt
David Coley 20 Aug Lead
PalfreyN 6 Jul 2nd
with Cbulman
with Cbulman
Cbulman 6 Jul Lead RP
Hidden 2 Jul Lead G/U
Hidden 2 Jul 2nd rpt
Hidden 17 Jun 2nd rpt
Hidden 17 Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Jun Lead
Graham Westbrook 7 May 2nd
Sam Head 7 May Lead
Cbulman 31 Mar Lead dog
twm 5 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Jul, 2018 2nd
EllieWoods 7 Apr, 2018 2nd dog
Hidden 3 Apr, 2018 TR
debsb 19 Feb, 2018 2nd
with Glenda Huxter
with Glenda Huxter
Steve Woollard 8 Nov, 2017 2nd
with Steve Thorpe
with Steve Thorpe
BeastintheWest ?Jul, 2017 2nd β
with Paul Roberts
with Paul Roberts
timorme 21 Jun, 2017 TR rpt started slightly right so off route really think it was easier then the actual route
with Steve (kayley)
started slightly right so off route really think it was easier then the actual route
with Steve (kayley)
m.powell02 7 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
with twill
with twill
Hidden 7 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Apr, 2017 Lead dog
Brookey 13 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S
Lee_Meaden 13 Apr, 2017 Lead RP
with Brookey
with Brookey
Hidden 18 Mar, 2017 Lead dog
Nathan Chrismas 15 Mar, 2017 Lead RP First E2 lead, 5b version. Got all the gear in on the onsight attempt but just missed the top jug to pull over. Pulled the ropes and finished it off after a rest.
First E2 lead, 5b version. Got all the gear in on the onsight attempt but just missed the top jug to pull over. Pulled the ropes and finished it off after a rest.
felixwilkins 11 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S
Ana Broad 25 Jun, 2016 TR
with Emgrant
with Emgrant
Hidden 25 Jun, 2016 TR
John Mcshea 13 May, 2016 Lead O/S Possibly done years ago
Possibly done years ago
shoulders 8 May, 2016 Lead dog very hot day , weak arms and head. successive attempts just got worse and worse. Time to get fit.
with pete lewis
very hot day , weak arms and head. successive attempts just got worse and worse. Time to get fit.
with pete lewis
Hidden 21 Feb, 2016 2nd rpt
alice fuller 6 Jan, 2016 Lead rpt Cage start at dusk.did again in Nov, one of Saturns' rings definitly flexing.
Cage start at dusk.did again in Nov, one of Saturns' rings definitly flexing.
keepguessing ??, 2016 Lead β
with Tom D
with Tom D
Hidden 28 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Joe Costello 30 May, 2015 2nd
tobydunford 10 May, 2015 Lead β
ferdia 10 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Andy Moles 10 May, 2015 2nd
with ferdia
with ferdia
BC 10 Apr, 2015 Lead Did the super direct start
Did the super direct start
dbrooks 1 Apr, 2015 Lead G/U fell first time round for no obvious reason, good fun
fell first time round for no obvious reason, good fun
jacobjohncharles 5 Jan, 2015 Lead O/S
DredStripe ??, 2015 Lead G/U
kingholmesy ??, 2015 Lead O/S From the bottom of the gully, albeit that I checked out the boulder problem start before tieing on.
From the bottom of the gully, albeit that I checked out the boulder problem start before tieing on.
FATBOYFAT ??, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2015 -
omaskrey 21 Sep, 2014 2nd dnf Fell off at the pegs after retrieving all the gear and couldn't get back on. Some fairly loose rocks all over...
with KDhruev
Fell off at the pegs after retrieving all the gear and couldn't get back on. Some fairly loose rocks all over...
with KDhruev
KDhruev 21 Sep, 2014 Lead RP
Hidden 10 Sep, 2014 TR dog
Mr Tickle 9 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Lovely position
Lovely position
timorme 27 May, 2014 TR dnf
with Dan Orme
with Dan Orme
BC 26 May, 2014 Lead O/S
Dean Russell 4 May, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 Apr, 2014 2nd dnf
alice fuller 8 Apr, 2014 Lead β Previously seconded clean 13/10/11 with Pete.
Previously seconded clean 13/10/11 with Pete.
willhornby 11 Mar, 2014 Lead E2 6a for low start E1 5b for cage good gear easy climbing jug pulling fun
E2 6a for low start E1 5b for cage good gear easy climbing jug pulling fun
hornbywill 2 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S Did low start up the headwall E2 6a reckon E1 5b for the cage start
Did low start up the headwall E2 6a reckon E1 5b for the cage start
Nick Biven ??, 2014 -
petecallaghan 17 Nov, 2013 TR rpt
Russell Blackaller 27 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Started the old school way. great move up to the ledge and well worth 5c.
Started the old school way. great move up to the ledge and well worth 5c.
josh.sims 3 Jul, 2013 TR
Chris dyer 3 Jul, 2013 TR dnf
with Jodie pointer, josh.sims
with Jodie pointer, josh.sims
paul reah 24 Jun, 2013 TR O/S Threw a rope up for this, as i have never led anything of that grade, however the powerfull climbing suited my style and stormed up it no problems :) will be back for lead when ive worked my way up to that grade!!
with Tim Orme
Threw a rope up for this, as i have never led anything of that grade, however the powerfull climbing suited my style and stormed up it no problems :) will be back for lead when ive worked my way up to that grade!!
with Tim Orme
timorme 24 Jun, 2013 TR dog
with Paul Reah
with Paul Reah
Dibdawg 6 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
with Dean177
with Dean177
Dean177 6 Apr, 2013 2nd O/S
with Dibdawg
with Dibdawg
Hidden 26 Jan, 2013 TR rpt
Hidden 26 Jan, 2013 TR O/S
Hidden 14 Sep, 2012 2nd O/S
Davebryant ?Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
kyebrooks 27 Jul, 2012 TR dog
Katie Comer 24 Jul, 2012 TR dnf Managed about two-thirds of the climb before my arms wore out!
with Dan Cox
Managed about two-thirds of the climb before my arms wore out!
with Dan Cox
JamesC-H123 17 Jul, 2012 TR
Hidden 17 Jul, 2012 TR rpt
JeromeT ?Jul, 2012 Solo
rustaldo 25 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S Started from the cage as per rockfax. Hueg jug pulling all the way. Abbed off.
with Hinchrn
Started from the cage as per rockfax. Hueg jug pulling all the way. Abbed off.
with Hinchrn
francois 25 Jun, 2012 Lead dog I found placing back up gear at the pegs too strenuous for me. I'll be back!
with Ben
I found placing back up gear at the pegs too strenuous for me. I'll be back!
with Ben
Hinchrn 25 Jun, 2012 2nd dog Would have been a nice cheecy onsight, if hadn't slapped on the only bad hold on the route.
Would have been a nice cheecy onsight, if hadn't slapped on the only bad hold on the route.
Tom Seccombe 13 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
with Alex, Talk
with Alex, Talk
Hidden 30 May, 2012 Lead rpt
Hidden 28 Mar, 2012 Lead dog
James Mitchelmore 5 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
burto 27 Jan, 2012 Lead O/S
with steve
with steve
Brian H 6 Nov, 2011 Lead rpt
with Rik
with Rik
just one more 10 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
with Svenn G
with Svenn G
Tom D 22 Aug, 2011 Lead rpt done
done
Will Hodges 3 Aug, 2011 TR dnf
with Ja Cromwell
with Ja Cromwell
Angusmc 24 Jul, 2011 TR RP
Hidden 3 Jul, 2011 TR O/S
richardr 11 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S Pegs will go very soon. Back them up folks!
Pegs will go very soon. Back them up folks!
nickdonohue ?Jun, 2011 2nd
with Dave Coley
with Dave Coley
John Henry Wynn 19 May, 2011 Lead O/S quality
quality
Hidden 19 May, 2011 2nd O/S
Hidden 11 May, 2011 2nd
Hidden 11 May, 2011 Lead dog
Hidden 1 May, 2011 Lead dog
Hidden 2 Apr, 2011 TR dnf
Eike 2 Apr, 2011 TR
Hidden 2 Apr, 2011 TR
abicampbell ?Apr, 2011 TR dnf
Joe Khreisheh 22 Mar, 2011 TR O/S
Hidden 6 Mar, 2011 2nd rpt
Luke90 5 Mar, 2011 Lead dog
dmaldonado 5 Mar, 2011 2nd dog
dale1968 18 Feb, 2011 2nd dnf
Hidden 18 Feb, 2011 Lead O/S
Bristoldave 15 Jan, 2011 Lead O/S
with nick
with nick
crimpy69 8 Jan, 2011 TR O/S
MH123 21 Oct, 2010 TR rpt
with Jack_F
with Jack_F
Jack_F 21 Oct, 2010 Solo β
jellyfish82 25 Sep, 2010 2nd O/S
markv21 15 Sep, 2010 Lead β
Tim M 12 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
climbergg 12 Sep, 2010 2nd
with Tim M
with Tim M
Duncan Campbell 31 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S Wasn't massively psyched for this but had a go anyway....pumpy but not too bad, didn't use the leg over rest at the 'flat flange' so it cant be massively needed! This is my anti-style so pretty happy.
with henbot
Wasn't massively psyched for this but had a go anyway....pumpy but not too bad, didn't use the leg over rest at the 'flat flange' so it cant be massively needed! This is my anti-style so pretty happy.
with henbot
Hidden 30 Aug, 2010 2nd
Hidden 22 Aug, 2010 2nd dog
Tom D 22 Aug, 2010 Lead
Hidden 24 Jul, 2010 Lead β
Hidden 19 Jun, 2010 TR O/S
raku 15 Jun, 2010 Lead RP
with Beata Rakowska
with Beata Rakowska
Hidden 2 Jun, 2010 TR
Kate Edhouse 2 Jun, 2010 TR dog
with niccy noo
with niccy noo
adam cooper*super* 8 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S really nice, easy topout!
with Jack_F
really nice, easy topout!
with Jack_F
chris j 7 Mar, 2010 2nd
with Ben Bradford
with Ben Bradford
henbot 1 Mar, 2010 2nd
with Dom
with Dom
pezzerrr 6 Feb, 2010 Lead O/S
thomb ?Feb, 2010 -
andy_pemberton ?Jan, 2010 2nd
botster ??, 2010 -
Dave Searle ??, 2010 Solo by mistake.
by mistake.
Hidden ??, 2010 TR
Hidden 28 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Oct, 2009 Lead rpt
chris j 3 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S
with Doug
with Doug
Hidden ?Oct, 2009 TR RP
Hidden 26 Sep, 2009 Lead β
Hidden 11 Sep, 2009 Lead rpt
petecallaghan 4 Jul, 2009 Lead dnf Lead to pegs, messed up gear twice so climbed 3 times to pegs then fell off roof. Top roped clean.
Lead to pegs, messed up gear twice so climbed 3 times to pegs then fell off roof. Top roped clean.
Hidden 4 Jul, 2009 TR rpt
pedro.silva 20 Jun, 2009 TR dog Started on the cage. Pumped out at the top, awesome climb with really good holds. Reachy move to a very good jugg coming out of the overhang
with Jiff & Tony
Started on the cage. Pumped out at the top, awesome climb with really good holds. Reachy move to a very good jugg coming out of the overhang
with Jiff & Tony
graham knott 20 Jun, 2009 TR O/S From the cage up. Brilliant climb! Maybe lead this one day!
with Pedro and Tony
From the cage up. Brilliant climb! Maybe lead this one day!
with Pedro and Tony
Gingerdarren 21 May, 2009 Lead rpt Stared off on the cage, have ascended from the boulder crux but not this time
with Jo Bulger
Stared off on the cage, have ascended from the boulder crux but not this time
with Jo Bulger
w.pettet-smith ?May, 2009 Lead bit of beta from josh- leg over the block at pegs made it do-able. silly amount of fun. so so steep but not very hard.
with josh
bit of beta from josh- leg over the block at pegs made it do-able. silly amount of fun. so so steep but not very hard.
with josh
MH123 26 Mar, 2009 2nd dog
with Jack_F
with Jack_F
Jack_F 26 Mar, 2009 Lead G/U
with Max hodges
with Max hodges
Popkids 24 Jan, 2009 TR I started the route from the lip just off the cage.
with Kafoozalem
I started the route from the lip just off the cage.
with Kafoozalem
Mark Stevenson 10 Jan, 2009 Lead O/S
with Ed Southwood
with Ed Southwood
w.pettet-smith ??, 2009 Lead rpt hang over made it a lot harder than the first time. very satisfying route.
with steve
hang over made it a lot harder than the first time. very satisfying route.
with steve
Hidden ??, 2009 TR O/S
Reeges 1 Nov, 2008 Lead O/S Great fun route! Massive holds just well spaced. Back up the pegs. Crux to start, spotter helpful.
Great fun route! Massive holds just well spaced. Back up the pegs. Crux to start, spotter helpful.
Justin T 21 Aug, 2008 Lead RP Feckin' ell that's steep!
with Cusco
Feckin' ell that's steep!
with Cusco
nblackbeard 25 Jun, 2008 Lead RP
with Darren Russell & Gemma Foster
with Darren Russell & Gemma Foster
nblackbeard 23 Jun, 2008 TR RP Amazing Overhang with a good bouldering start!!
with Darren Russell
Amazing Overhang with a good bouldering start!!
with Darren Russell
Hidden 21 Feb, 2008 2nd
sharmawho? 21 Feb, 2008 Lead
with Oli, Nick
with Oli, Nick
dewrats ??, 2008 Lead O/S
sharmawho? ??, 2008 2nd O/S
with Oli, Chris, Nick , Dave
with Oli, Chris, Nick , Dave
Steerpike 3 Nov, 2007 Lead dog
with Tommo
with Tommo
Dave Searle 21 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S
Marti999 24 May, 2007 Lead
WLNesfield 16 Mar, 2007 TR dnf
with Mark Dormon
with Mark Dormon
Hidden ?Jan, 2007 TR dog
OliBoyes ??, 2007 -
with Oli Boyes, Nick Baron, Dave Searle
with Oli Boyes, Nick Baron, Dave Searle
climber sim ??, 2007 -
eddy-on-the-rocks ??, 2007 Lead O/S
bronsonite 24 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
with Alex Cannon
with Alex Cannon
tuftynick ?Aug, 2005 Solo rpt Solo from the bottom of the gully! Grew up climbing here as a kid.
Solo from the bottom of the gully! Grew up climbing here as a kid.
JeromeT ??, 2005 Lead
Ben1983 ?Jun, 2004 Lead rpt
dannyboy83 ?May, 2003 2nd O/S
with Chris Havill
with Chris Havill
bigrob ??, 2003 TR
with delboy
with delboy
Hidden ??, 2000 -
petegunn 1 Feb, 1999 TR
with Matt Wilkes
with Matt Wilkes
Hidden 18 Jan, 1999 TR
Roget 15 Jun, 1997 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
markw ??, 1997 TR RP
leadmat ?Jul, 1995 Lead
Dringo ??, 1995 -
kristian 1 Feb, 1994 Lead
pmot ??, 1994 -
Hidden ??, 1993 Lead
Hidden ??, 1991 -
Derek Ryden 26 Nov, 1990 Lead O/S
with Ian Parnell, Andy Turner
with Ian Parnell, Andy Turner
Mark Kemball ??, 1990 TR
Hidden ?Apr, 1986 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ??, 1979 -
Simon cook ??, 1978 -
Simon cook ??, 1974 -
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 25
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set