300m, 10 pitches.

Rockfax Description
III, 240m. A striking line up the golden edge of the face. The climbing is as good as it looks and the ambience incredible. The route begins on some broken ground at the toe of the buttress. All the belays are bolted and equipped for abseil.
1) 4a, 30m. Scramble onto the broken rocks then climb a corner-crack to a belay on a ledge.
2) 6a, 25m. Climb the crack through the overhang above the belay, on the crest of the ridge. This proves to be both technical and fairly physical. There is a hidden peg here which is difficult to spot.
3) 5c, 25m. Follow a superb crack left of the crest of the ridge.
4) 5b, 25m. Step left and follow the groove to a large ledge.
5) 5c, 35m. The chimney straight above the belay leads to a short crack and then another corner heading out left. Follow this (ignore the belay on the left when you emerge from the second corner) and climb the cracked slab above for 10m. Amongst the local guides this pitch is known as the 'dièdre lisse' - the slippery groove. Say no more!
6) 5a, 35m. Follow the wide crack up the steep slab to a ledge 5m left of the arête.
7) 5b, 30m. Follow flakes and cracks up and left, heading directly for a distinctive V-shaped notch of the left - the belay is in the notch.
8) 5c, 40m. Climb flakes and cracks above and then a corner system above. The belay is on the summit ridge of the Pointe Adolphe Rey. It is possible to continue up the ridge to the summit from here, or abseil back down.
Descent - Abseil down the route on fixed anchors. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Classic steep crack climb on the East-South East spur of the peak. V+.

T.Busi, F.Salluard 06/Sep/1951

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+).

janegallwey 17/Aug/17 AltLd

Pulled on sling at crux

calumhicks 15/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Brilliant varied pitches, awesome route! Easy to get ropes stuck if you abb back down the route.

Hidden 15/Aug/17 AltLd
Michael 29/Jul/17 -
Hidden 23/Jul/17 AltLd
Wendy Watthews 23/Jul/17 AltLd

Walked from the Torino in poor visibility. Started up the wrong route which definitely wasn't 4, just followed a stuck wire, chock and peg through a wet notch probably at around 5c but ended up on the right belay, Jake took the crux pitch and the chimney. Abbed off after pitch 6 as didn't want to miss the lift down for Luke's birthday dinner. Lovely cracks and flakes on glorious granite.

with JakeB.
Ross L 06/Jul/17 2nd
with Kenny Grant
ndraper1 26/May/17 Lead O/S

Bettembourg had a water fall down it so sans topo we followed our nose up this. Took a variant on pitch 5 it seems, turned left and climbed a big curving wide flake at about 5c with rejoins the route. Nice to climb in the 2nd half of the day out the sun and less busy.

with Jess
Hidden 02/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Duncan Campbell 01/Jul/16 AltLd

First alpine route - great fun! The slog back up to the station unacclimatised was not so fun though!!

with Bubbles
TRip 01/Jul/16 AltLd
with Duncan
Hidden 06/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/15 AltLd
walts4 ??/2015 -
Hidden 06/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
cat22 27/Jul/14 2nd dnf
with Mike
paulmck 12/Jun/14 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
charlesmfrench 25/Jul/13 AltLd O/S


with Anette
jcw ??/2013 -
David Horwood 09/Sep/11 -
Hidden ?/Sep/11 Lead
AdamCB ?/Aug/11 -
Guy Wilson ??/2010 -
James W ?/Aug/07 -

crux was alpine 5+

with mary w
dannyboy83 ?/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
feilx ?/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
PanzerHanzler 24/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Thomas Merkel
Smelly Fox 12/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
with Sion Brocklehurst
NickJH ?/Aug/98 AltLd
with JThomas
NickJH ?/Jul/98 AltLd dog
with JThomas
tjekel ??/1998 -
Robmwatt ??/1990 -
with Gaz Morgan
John Marsland 30/Jul/86 -

5.5 hours

with Dave Soles
Hidden ??/1985 -
alpinist63 08/Aug/81 AltLd
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