Start behind the tree to right of The Bone, climb the rib stepping left to use the good nut slot. Traverse right and use good holds to swing up into groove, followed to the top, maintaining interest to the very end.

matthew.n.u 29/Oct/17 2nd

Fell off the crux with only a marginal cam in the pocket that didn't hold leaving me in a pile of dirt. Got it clean on second after.

steve-grigg 29/Oct/17 Lead O/S
AlexBclimbing 20/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/17 2nd O/S
ripper 18/Jun/17 Lead O/S

dithered a bit before committing to the moves up to the nut slot, but got it in the end

with simon
TwofoZeus 17/Jun/17 2nd O/S

Great route, don't miss the solid thread in the large pockets (not the thin shitty looking one).

with ripper
Hidden 08/Apr/17 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 02/Apr/17 2nd rpt
with KatePG
Anouk Spelt 02/Apr/17 TR
steve_gibbs 13/Nov/16 Lead rpt
WillAndrew 13/Nov/16 Lead O/S
Ollie B 13/Nov/16 Lead O/S
with J.Williams
JoeWilliams 13/Nov/16 Lead β

Did on Ollie's gear

with Ollie B
fuzzysheep01 30/Oct/16 2nd O/S
with Mark Hodson, Ed Shaw
eduardo 30/Oct/16 Lead rpt

Think I had done this before. A still, damp day, very slippy on the rib and thread fiddly to place on lead. Used holds to the left of the nut slot to move up to 7m ledge.

with fuzzysheep01, Mark H
James Smith 04/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with ali
ali.scott 04/Sep/16 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 04/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with James Smith, ali.scott
jsmcfarland 30/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Quite a good route, though start is a little bold

with Tim
tim.fairhall 30/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Sachi
Hidden 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/16 Lead O/S
charles-green 15/May/16 Lead dnf

Dirty and crap gear so went on to the bone instead

Hmgslade 08/May/16 2nd
with Jack
Hidden 08/May/16 Lead O/S
timtimpeggy ??/2016 -
Doug miller 17/Oct/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/15 Lead rpt
TimCul 06/Sep/15 Lead
pearson9596 06/Sep/15 2nd O/S
jungle 05/Sep/15 2nd
with Rob Smart, Paul Mcarthy
mattgrange 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Tough start on dubious gear, but the finish up the groove felt harder, absorbingly technical and quite delicate moves.

Ravenonthewire 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Stuart
leigh 07/Jun/15 2nd
with Kev
Andy Chubb 06/Jun/15 -

Hard move at 3 m

with Nick Gregory
Tala A 07/May/15 Lead O/S

Took a long time to commit to the initial moves which I would say are even more difficult if you're me! Then it hits you at the top as well. Very pleased to get this clean.

shoulders 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
richsmithinbristol 19/Apr/15 2nd
hutchay 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/15 2nd
Echna 11/Apr/15 Lead dnf

Escaped onto "The bone" at the very top.

with Rich
Sam Watson 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Not really much gear but some fun moves

cwildblood 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Cheese Monkey 20/Mar/15 2nd O/S
with Tom P
Hidden 20/Mar/15 Lead O/S
mike lawrence? 07/Mar/15 TR

Tried to lead but backed off and top roped it, which I had no regrets over, low gear and hard moves though maybe I was too far to right.

Tim W 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Adam Preston
Prez 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Tim
08nbrierley 14/Jun/14 2nd dnf

finished to the left

with jamie
Hidden 14/Jun/14 Lead dnf
crossdressingrodney 12/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Peter
pheotleyr 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Start is a bit on the hard and slightly bold side.

with Oli
julesmckim 08/Jun/14 Lead

Bold first section. Didn't notice any threads, just a Rock fiddled into a pocket which probably wouldn't have held. Pleasant upper section

with Rob Smart
bpmclimb 01/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 01/Jun/14 2nd
kivell 17/Apr/14 Lead
Stuart William 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Tough at the top.

with Pleb
bryan61 29/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with berny
tomhull 04/Sep/13 2nd β

contrived, dirty finish so went left

with Stephen Cumberland
andyjirvin 13/Jul/13 2nd β

Nice climb, quite technical with some fiddly but ok gear. Smallish cam seemed quite useful. The crux is higher than you think!

gb05 09/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with James Matthews
Nick Russell 24/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Apparently I could have placed gear on the start.

alastairbegley 24/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Kemics 23/Jun/13 2nd RP

Found the last move hard. Decided to slap for a jug...which wasn't. Fell off a meter off the belay...couldnt bear a grey tick so Ant lowered me and I quickly climbed again. Second RP?

with Anthony
Anthony Dixon 23/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Caleb
Dean Russell 20/Jun/13 Lead O/S
evhall 06/Jun/13 Lead rpt

easiest E1 in shorncliff??

with goat
crimpylewis 06/Jun/13 2nd
alastairbegley 07/May/13 Lead O/S

Scary Start!

Dave Mahon 06/May/13 Lead O/S

need some cord for bomber thread low down (thin sling wouldn't go through), easier but less substantial thread above.

with Brian Mead
Hidden 16/Sep/12 2nd 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with jamesca
nniff 15/Sep/12 2nd
Tim Sparrow 15/Sep/12 Lead
with Ned
KitRabbette 10/Sep/12 2nd O/S

David's first E1, beautiful route

Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
ericinbristol 02/Sep/12 Lead rpt

4th of 17 routes in 6 hours.

with Johnny S
rd20 01/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with David P
Hidden 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
dprctr 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/Aug/12 2nd
Andrew Gee 02/Aug/12 Lead
Tom Hill 02/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
richardr 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Could do with an permanent thread, found the good one too hard to put in on lead with a thin sling and used the poorer thread just above.

chris wyatt 29/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Gave the lead to rich after wimping the start.

with rich
Hidden 11/May/12 Lead
harold walmsley 05/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Initial arete hard for grade but only stepped L for pro, then climbed direct on R. Are you allowed to climb it on the L? UKC description is ambiguous and CC guide does not mention going L at all. I also found the top groove hard but missed the best sequence here.

with Paul Evans
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
R_W_M 25/Mar/12 2nd
with Eleri
MikeLell 07/Jan/12 2nd
with Dave
Alexclimbs ??/2012 Lead O/S
will_benfold 10/Dec/11 Lead O/S

Used a good solid thread (thin cord, nimble fingers...) to protect the first 1/3 of the route. Interesting finish.

Dan Wilcox 10/Dec/11 2nd
tomhill#1 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/11 2nd β
bpmclimb 18/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with Helen S
WalnutHorse 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Cornish Cream 27/Sep/11 Lead
with Alice Loudon
Gibbo 23/Jul/11 Lead
with Claire Chipperfield, Tom Gibbison
Hidden 03/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/11 2nd O/S
thomasadixon 27/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Mike
s.c.white 25/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/May/11 Lead
just one more 04/May/11 Lead
with Svenn G
Hidden 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Justin T 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Cherry
Hidden 23/Apr/11 2nd
Andy Clarke 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Long reach for second ledge quite hard for the shortish. Bold, but protectable with cam in pocket to right. Good climbing throughout, I thought.

with Johnny
andyjirvin 26/Mar/11 -

Adds on a slightly harder start to The Bone, if remember correctly. Happy to second cleanly.

Hidden 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Vincej ??/2011 2nd
with Nevil
mwatson ??/2011 -
marclloyd77 21/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Damp rock

peaches69 21/Nov/10 2nd O/S

move near top was really hairy in the wet even on second. nice one on lead marc!!!

Gibbo 21/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Ollie Keynes
stvredmond 30/Sep/10 Lead

loved this route and maintained interest. think its more worthwhile than the bone

Hidden 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
simeclimb68 11/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Ricahrd Millet
saz_b 04/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Dugald
Hidden 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Ali.B 31/Aug/10 2nd
Dave Thompson 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 18/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Mike
JWB 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S

A few interesting moves but nice.

jon_gill1 15/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/10 Lead O/S
hardoreVdiffBen 31/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Remus
Hidden 28/Jun/10 2nd
Trisha Murphy 28/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with mike
Danos 13/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Rich
Allan Watson 06/Jun/10 Lead
with Heather
guy xavier percival 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Brian
bpmclimb 04/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Mark, Guy
lizzie789 23/May/10 2nd
RagingPuffin 23/May/10 Lead O/S
Marti999 22/May/10 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 22/May/10 Lead β
with Marti
Ian JL 20/May/10 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 09/May/10 Lead O/S
with Ian Wyatt
chalkiesurf ?/May/10 Lead
gripped01 ?/May/10 Lead
with Rob Patchett
natalietanzer 25/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with nacnud
nacnud 24/Apr/10 2nd O/S
tobyb 11/Apr/10 2nd O/S
pezzerrr 05/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Tomar 14/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with Eric
ericinbristol 14/Mar/10 Lead rpt
with Tomar
Phil PBC ??/2010 -
chalkiesurf ??/2010 -
dts 18/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
DorsetGareth 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Had to work up the courage to traverse right!

with Richard Nadin
Andrew1 08/Aug/09 Lead
with Rachel Smith
Hanski 07/Aug/09 2nd
simon kimber 07/Aug/09 Lead O/S
leigh 03/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Ed
Hidden 02/Aug/09 Lead
chrisjones199 09/May/09 TR O/S
with Rus
hash 09/May/09 2nd
with Will Jones
Hidden 15/Mar/09 Lead rpt
gripped01 ??/2009 Lead O/S
summo ??/2009 -
quiffhanger ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/08 Lead
lithos 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S

went ok, top is quite hard. Not as good as The Bone

Lois 29/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Steve Beckwith
Hidden 14/Jun/08 2nd
Paul Bowen 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Bristoldave 17/May/08 Lead O/S

Lower section is easier for the tall methinks. (I'm not tall....). I thought the climbing was nice tho.

with douglas
riddle 03/May/08 Lead O/S
with Yasmina
Mark Davies PK 17/Apr/08 2nd

Hard ,bold and bollox

with Brian (bpm climb)
bpmclimb 16/Apr/08 Lead O/S

Put this as an onsight, since in the new guidebook it has a new independent line from half way up. Stepped briefly into the groove of The Bone near the start, which I don't remember doing before, but found it necessary this time. Hard for the grade, both the start and in the top corner. Significantly harder than The Bone, and not as good.

with Mark
Hidden 06/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Stone Muppet ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
irish paul 12/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Various
DrGav 15/Oct/06 2nd O/S

Almost bereft of gear on the bottom section unless you dodge left. Top section seemed to be as for The Bone's crux, so to be honest more bold than its neighbour and with same crux.

with Dave
David Martin 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with DrGav
Huntlyfiddler 06/Jun/06 2nd
bpmclimb 06/Jun/06 Lead O/S

(Spooky date)

with Clare
Hidden 28/May/06 2nd O/S
beardy mike ??/2006 -
Hidden 01/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/May/05 Lead O/S
cem 26/Sep/04 2nd
Hidden 31/Mar/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/03 Lead O/S
Wil Treasure ?/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with StephC
Hidden ?/Sep/03 2nd
greedo ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S

1st E1 lead here.

with Neil Roberts/son
Boxy 06/Oct/02 Lead O/S
furry ??/2002 Lead O/S
with Phil B
DubyaJamesDubya 27/Jun/00 Lead O/S
with Naomi Walker
1202alarm ??/2000 -
PaulTclimbing ??/2000 Lead
with An N, Trelewis gang, Neville, Pete n Nona et al, Rich T
alan moore ??/2000 -
richsmithinbristol 21/Aug/99 Lead
Hidden ?/May/99 Lead O/S
mikej 11/Apr/99 TR
with Nick Salmon
chris sm ?/Sep/97 Lead O/S
with Nick Wheeler
Hidden ??/1996 Lead O/S
Backinthegame 18/Jun/94 Lead O/S
with Lynn Wilkins, John Wright
3 Names ??/1993 Lead O/S
strapless 30/Jun/91 Lead
with Ju
Hidden 07/Jun/90 Lead
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