60m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A super route with a stiff crux on every pitch.
1) 4c, 35m. Start in a bay, below the black grooves, 8m right of a fence post. Head easily up and left to a ledge, go up and left for 2m and head further left along a ledge to a flake that leads steeply back up and right to the base of the slab. Follow the slab until a belay below the corner-crack is reached.
2) 5a, 20m. Blast up the difficult and wide corner-crack by a series of wild bridging moves before gaining and following the easier slab to a good belay just below the pedestal.
3) 4b, 14m. Head up into a steep corner/groove. Make a flamboyant swing left on large flakes to gain the left arete. Finish easily. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist.

Hannes B 11/May/17 Solo O/S
Phil4000 08/May/17 AltLd
with Phoebe
Greg Cunningham 07/May/17 AltLd
with Rich Lindsay
dobby 200 07/May/17 AltLd O/S

I led P2

with Helen Rudkin
h3l3n283 07/May/17 AltLd
steven_daniels99 06/May/17 Lead
Hidden 05/May/17 -
useful 05/May/17 AltLd

Ian P1 & 3. I led the crux 5a pitch. Really windy!

with Ian CMC
Ched 05/May/17 AltLd rpt

Great to be back on this after 30 years :) (See 14/06/87)

with gali
IanD353 05/May/17 AltLd O/S
with useful
paultaylor 08/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Pops
Michael Bortoluzzi 27/Mar/17 AltLd dog

Lead P1 - wet and bold, hard work! P2 on 2nd was ok, another matter to lead Had to sit on P3 to look round and figure out the moves - hard to reach but easy once you're moving across.

TwofoZeus 27/Mar/17 AltLd

Lead p2, luckily best pitch and a very nice technical one.

Jamie Brown 09/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Lead P1 and 3. P2 is well'ard!

lithos 09/Oct/16 AltLd

P2. jami e did well on P1 which is probably 4c for moves before the slab esp when wet as today. P2 steep lots of gear and fun. P3 v short but a blast.

with jamie b
khalidq 18/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
with Rachel Balding
Hidden 06/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
TheSingularity 07/Jun/16 2nd O/S
RivalAllan 07/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Makhani 05/Jun/16 AltLd
with Karl
Darboak42 03/Jun/16 2nd
with John Haxon
RhysB 21/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
Happy Wanderer 04/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Led p1 and p3. P1 tougher than 4b and p3 rather short but tenuous left step. P2 worth the 5a with some nice but scary moves. One of the few routes not soggy today.

with Mike D
MD 04/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Led p2, top end VS.

with Jo
foostu4 18/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
nodwas 18/Aug/15 AltLd
Hidden 25/Jul/15 AltLd
JamesWilliams 23/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Prett spicy vs

Hidden 16/Sep/14 Lead
HB-Pencil 16/Sep/14 2nd
jalqazzaz 15/Sep/14 2nd O/S

May have underestimated how fast the sun was going down....exited on phone light! Really interesting climb!

grivers86 13/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Martyn Frost
JenRoberts 05/Sep/14 2nd
with Ollie
erbridger 25/Jun/14 AltLd

Pitch 2.

with nedly14
ned_85 25/Jun/14 AltLd
Hidden 24/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
fizzychewitt 24/Jun/14 Lead

Rock and moves on this crag excellent, much underrated. Led all pitches and climbed in much better style than last time. Thought it was nails for a VS. P1 deserves to be graded 4c, it's no pushover.

with Alun
Nigel Coe 23/Jun/14 AltLd
with Pete Kelly
carl_123 19/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
shed_hed 13/Jun/14 Solo dnf

Didn't feel confident with the overhanging crack so downclimbed.

will moy 30/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with tom thorne
Hidden 30/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Si ??/2014 -
Paul Clarke ??/2014 AltLd
with FMC
Hidden ??/2014 -
Private Flounder 29/Sep/13 AltLd

Led 5a pitch (P2)

with Julia Collings, chris manasseh
Chris Manasseh 27/Sep/13 AltLd

Led pp 1 + 3

with Jules, Nick Manasseh
Hidden 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S
JanBella 23/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with pete
Andy Clarke 23/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

A very enjoyable route, with good moves and positions on every pitch: airy traverse on P1; stiff crux on P2; thrilling step into space on P3. Led P2. Last route in the Pass before rain brought the heatwave to an end!

with Ralph
piersnewton 21/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

lead pitch 1 and 3

ollyroberts 21/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2

dan gibson 17/Jul/13 Solo O/S
neal 06/May/13 AltLd O/S

led 2nd pitch

with Dan
tim20 ??/2013 -
Jillybean 10/Aug/12 AltLd

I led P1 and P3, brad led P2. Had major epic with a spider or two, the nut key was a life saver!!

with Brad
Johnywilks 03/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/May/12 Lead β
SAF 30/Mar/12 2nd
with Mark
Mark Reeves 30/Mar/12 Lead
with SAF
Hidden 26/Mar/12 -
jezb1 25/Mar/12 AltLd

P1 & p3. 2nd pitch is the best one, but nice step round on the top pitch.

Hidden ??/2012 -
guy757 15/Oct/11 -
tgeh 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with dan geh
Dan Geh 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

wet 1st pitch, pumpy 2nd pitch and an exposed 3rd pitch

kdalzell 30/Jun/11 2nd
with Caroline Tombs
andyjirvin 01/May/11 Lead O/S

Excellent, varied route. Potential to make things harder for yourself - experienced multi-pitch teams will probably find easier. Good committing move on 2nd pitch. Lots of variety - face climbs, slabs, bulges and the final swing around the arete. Went off route at top (possibly the 5b vaiation) which turned it into an epic - down climbed back to what was probably correct move around arete, but left gear and rope in on the wrong line. Caused problems at the end as Simon wasn't able to climb up to retrieve the nut or unclip rope. Lots of rope drag and eventually rope got stuck in a crack. Not leaving a rope behing so got simon to top rope me back down into route, reversed aorund arete and across to tricky section to free rope and gear (now only hanging on one half rope and it's getting dark!). Final wallk off tricky in dark and slippery conditions. Total time taken must have been 3 or 4 hours!!

Hidden 29/Apr/11 AltLd
brockers 29/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Katy Nelson 26/Apr/11 AltLd
with Dave Morse
david morse 25/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with jo, katie
Katy Nelson 25/Apr/11 AltLd

Chossy third pitch. steep and excellent otherwise

with Jo Peters, david morse
Hidden 24/Apr/11 AltLd
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/11 2nd
Cardi 19/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Lead middle pitch. Ruth decided to do the hideous alternate 5b top pitch, which was not fun with cold hands, and I fell off.

with Ruth
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Derek Ryden 17/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Bo
Alaina 01/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with Esther Seddon
chris smith 06/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
The Bad Cough 26/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/10 AltLd
mynyddresident 17/Jun/10 AltLd
with geraint
Noodles 16/Jun/10 AltLd
with Justin Lawley
stuart34 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Lenny 05/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Led pitches 1 & 3

with James. D
Hidden 31/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/May/10 AltLd dog
feilx 28/May/10 Solo O/S
fizzychewitt 25/May/10 AltLd
with Jayne
Hidden 18/May/10 Lead
Hidden 15/May/10 AltLd O/S
cooper leek 15/May/10 AltLd O/S

led pitch 3

with dave nw, donk
donkster 15/May/10 AltLd O/S
with ben, DaveNW
TimPerkin 02/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Mark Perkin
cem 02/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led p2

Hidden ?/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/10 2nd
Paul ablitt 24/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with Sarah
Hidden 24/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
keith leonard ??/2010 Lead
aged_ape 20/Oct/09 -
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Ben HW 26/May/09 2nd dog
with Cath Howell-Walmsley
sgl 03/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with helena
Roger Cruse 21/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
with Kris
niallk 28/Sep/08 AltLd dnf

First pitch seems a little stiff for 4b.

with Young Andy
Ben Griffiths 06/Sep/08 AltLd β
richardr ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Rather wet!

eagleopus 25/May/08 AltLd
with Gareth
Mike Goldthorp ?/May/08 Lead O/S

Pitch 2 is excellent

with Sam Jones
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
craig h 05/May/07 Lead O/S
with Janet Hannah
Owen W-G 21/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

Led P1 & 3

with Robin
Mick B 08/Apr/07 AltLd
with Matt Brennen
jl 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Penny
pennyb 06/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Jon
pigeonjim ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
caradoc 06/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
with john b
colin milton 16/Aug/03 AltLd
with levi beeching
Mark Riley ?/Jul/02 AltLd
with Stuart Greenall
Hidden ?/Jun/01 Lead O/S
csalvage 31/Jul/99 2nd O/S
with Jack
WB 29/Aug/98 AltLd O/S
with Nicola
zero six ??/1998 Lead O/S
Andy Say 13/Aug/97 Lead
tlr 16/May/97 Lead
with Fran
Hidden 12/Jun/94 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/93 2nd
nai 22/Aug/89 AltLd
with Roger Devy
Budge ?/Jun/88 AltLd O/S
with Richard Teed
Ched 14/Jun/87 Lead O/S

Didn't have Cams in those days. Cacking it on the crux as I couldn't protect the pull on to the slab. A fall would have been a hospital job. It was my first full on pump / grip. Still remember it vividly after 30+ years.

with Glanfor
Hidden 27/Apr/87 Lead
Melok ??/1983 AltLd
Melok ??/1983 AltLd
babymoac 01/Aug/81 AltLd
with MTW
Hidden ??/1980 -
Ken Taylor 15/Sep/78 Lead O/S
with Chris Terrey
Mark Kemball 08/Apr/78 Lead
with Richard Lang
Steve Lewis 17/Jul/77 AltLd O/S
with sharpie
Hidden ?/Jun/77 2nd
Chris Terrey 21/May/77 AltLd
with Ken Taylor
Ian Jones ??/1977 AltLd O/S
mikej 08/Jun/76 Lead
with Tony Waite
beaumap ?/Jun/76 2nd
with Fred Smith
tapley 09/May/76 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Bolt Phobia 26/Apr/76 Lead
with Mike Combley
Ian Jones ??/1976 Lead O/S
with Chris Newton, Mike newton, Billy Jones, Digby Roberts
Hidden 24/Aug/75 AltLd
Nigel Bond 30/Jul/75 Lead
with Brian
Bolt Phobia 18/May/75 AltLd
with John Broadwell
Bob M ?/Aug/73 2nd
with John Dennis
Brian Wilderspin ?/Aug/73 2nd

On YHA climbing course. Was this know as Anthropology at one time?

Gordon Stainforth 04/Sep/72 2nd
with John Stainforth
Steve Clegg 19/Jul/72 AltLd
with Chris H
uphillnow 15/Apr/72 Lead
Martin Bennett 01/Oct/71 -
with JD
eroica64 24/May/70 AltLd
with Roger Everett
mikej 19/Oct/69 AltLd
with Wil Hurford
Seymore Butt ??/1965 2nd
with Ian Heys
26 users have this on their wishlist
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 28
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 25
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set