Restricted Access
There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.
In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act), some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.
Rockfax Description
A fine outing in the style. Start 6m left of Gideon, a few metres down from the apex of the scree/boulder cone.
1) 5b, 20m. Head up the seam that leads right of the ledge to a shot-hole. Either a very small tricam or folded medium wire provides some semblance of protection. Continue delicately up the slab with your heart in your mouth to reach a ledge and sapling - combined they almost give enough gear to belay off.
2) 5b, 60m. Move up to the fault-line of the Gideon traverse and head left along it for a few metres, until you are below a slim groove to the right of the chossy overlap. Place as much gear as you can here, skyhooks, microwires and anything else small you are carrying. Say a prayer and launch up the groove, then pad left to the main overlap via a large dimple. Move up the overlap to some wire placements. From here aim up and left of the apex of the slab, then finish direct up this. © Rockfax
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Emilya
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Min Pistyll)