UKC

70m, 2 pitches. Cassandra Calling 66m E3 5b **
Another good, bold route up the main Gideon Slab. The line of the first pitch is obvious, the line of the second, non-existent. Skyhooks recommended!
Start next to a small tree just right of Bluebottle, where twin seams slant up right towards the belay tree of Giddy.
Remember: The belay blocks at the top are set 10m back from the edge.
P1. 20m 5b Follow the lefthand seam all the way to the tree. Sustained, with hardly any opportunity for gear, until the break at 12m is reached. Belay as for Giddy.
P2. 46m 5b Climb up to the Gideon traverse ledge as for Giddy, but after one step left, climb straight up the slab between Giddy and Pandora Plays Sax to join the latter route halfway along its traverse left. Follow Pandora Plays Sax to the top. Apart from skyhooks, there is no gear between the Gideon traverse ledge and the top traverse of Pandora Plays Sax.

F.A.: Neil and Paul Harrison, Fraser Ball (Climbed in one pitch.) 28/Oct/2022.

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Route of Interest
Tyburn Gate

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Craig y Llam)

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