UKC

Restricted Access

There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.

In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.  

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act),  some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.

 

Click here for RAD Access Notes
Last update: 05/06/2018  

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70m, 2 pitches. Cassandra Calling 66m E3 5b **
Another good, bold route up the main Gideon Slab. The line of the first pitch is obvious, the line of the second, non-existent. Skyhooks recommended!
Start next to a small tree just right of Bluebottle, where twin seams slant up right towards the belay tree of Giddy.
Remember: The belay blocks at the top are set 10m back from the edge.
P1. 20m 5b Follow the lefthand seam all the way to the tree. Sustained, with hardly any opportunity for gear, until the break at 12m is reached. Belay as for Giddy.
P2. 46m 5b Climb up to the Gideon traverse ledge as for Giddy, but after one step left, climb straight up the slab between Giddy and Pandora Plays Sax to join the latter route halfway along its traverse left. Follow Pandora Plays Sax to the top. Apart from skyhooks, there is no gear between the Gideon traverse ledge and the top traverse of Pandora Plays Sax.

F.A.: Neil and Paul Harrison, Fraser Ball (Climbed in one pitch.) 28/Oct/2022.

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Guidebooks for Gideon Quarries

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
North Wales Climbs Cover
North Wales Climbs (2023)
Rockfax
By Mark Reeves, Mark Glaister
Dry Tooling Great Britain Cover
Dry Tooling Great Britain (2023)
Oxford Alpine Club
By Lina Arthur
Dry-Tooling Great Britain Cover
Dry-Tooling Great Britain (2023)
Oxford Alpine Club
By Lina Arthur
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Route of Interest
FatRob seconding the top crux pitch of Lubyanka
Lubyanka

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Cyrn Las (Gyrn Las))

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