No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag) have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!
The land above the crag is now designated open access land.
Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid.
There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully.
Rockfax Description
The right arete of the wall. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
see Gogarth South 2015
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Jamdahll | 25 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: A HS with small gear? Not at all scary | βeta? | |
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βeta: A HS with small gear? Not at all scary |
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Stu_Paton | 15 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: Not sure what the gogarth south guidebook is on about, VS 4c and steady at that. Loads of gear and in no way small or fiddly. Nice route irrespective of grade | βeta? | |
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βeta: Not sure what the gogarth south guidebook is on about, VS 4c and steady at that. Loads of gear and in no way small or fiddly. Nice route irrespective of grade |
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Butel | 20 Jul, 2023 |
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βeta: Super soft. VS at most. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Super soft. VS at most. |
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StuLade | 1 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: HVS 4c at most, softer than some of it's HVS neighbors and not as bold. | βeta? | |
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βeta: HVS 4c at most, softer than some of it's HVS neighbors and not as bold. |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)