UKC

Restricted Access

No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag)  have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!

The land above the crag is now designated open access land.

Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid. 

There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully. 

Rockfax Description
The arete is escapable but good. Start left of the arete at a crack and move right slightly. Climb direct and avoid stepping off the arete to the right.
Time and Tide Wait for No Man VS, 4c - Climb the right side of the arete via a broken crack. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
see Gogarth South 2015

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Rhoscolyn

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 13
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Britomartis

Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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