UKC

Restricted Access

No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag)  have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!

The land above the crag is now designated open access land.

Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid. 

There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully. 

13m.

Rockfax Description
Start 3m in from the arete below twin cracks. Climb these to a ledge and move left into the steep groove. Entering this groove proves difficult and the top is reached all too soon. © Rockfax

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High E2
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High E1
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Low E1
High HVS
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Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
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Votes cast 3
High 5b
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High 4c
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Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Followed
Lead
Toproped
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tension

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Holyhead Mountain)

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