No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag) have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!
The land above the crag is now designated open access land.
Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid.
There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully.
Rockfax Description
The arete with a overhanging nose at the top. © Rockfax
The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
mmd | 15 Apr, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very good route. Crux is the move from half way up under the roof to gain the arete and wall on the right. Once you make this move it all just happens and you get the large jugs all thew way to the top. The phrase mess above ignore as the rock is good and juggy. The GROUND UP guide suggests you go straight up as it says possilbe rightwards exit, when in fact that is the way. Good route | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Very good route. Crux is the move from half way up under the roof to gain the arete and wall on the right. Once you make this move it all just happens and you get the large jugs all thew way to the top. The phrase mess above ignore as the rock is good and juggy. The GROUND UP guide suggests you go straight up as it says possilbe rightwards exit, when in fact that is the way. Good route |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Gogarth South Stack)