Rockfax Description
IV, 450m, 4 - 5 hours. Another classic and an ideal first north face, the Migot provides a feel of seriousness without any particularly difficult climbing.
Approach - When the Glacier du Tour is well filled in, it should be possible to cross it more or less directly to reach the foot of the route. When heavily crevassed, either follow the Forbes Arête approach to the rocks at Pte. 3238m and then head straight for the route from here (move quickly under the seracs). Alternatively, cross the glacier lower down in the direction of the Col du Passon and then climb to the routes past the Aiguille du Passon.
1) Cross the bergschrund and climb mixed gullies (may be dry in late season) through the rock band, to reach the crest of the north ridge. If conditions are poor there is another line further right to get through the rock band, although there is no guarantee that this will be any better than the normal start!
2) Follow the snow ridge as close as possible to the crest to stay safe from potential serac fall.
3) Climb through mixed ground just to the right of the serac. The exact line will depend on conditions. Assuming there is good ice, climb the gully closest to the crest, or the one just to the left to reach the upper snowfield.
4) Follow the snowfield (50 degrees and exposed) in a stunning position to join the Forbes Arête just below the summit.
Descent - From the summit, descend the southwest ridge for 20m to reach the top of a wide 40-45 degree snow couloir dropping down on the right. Descend this, ideally on foot but abseiling from spikes if conditions are bad, sticking to the right (when looking down) as far as possible until you reach a saddle. The couloir is perched above a cliff band so take care and keep concentrating all the way down. From the saddle, continue down the vague ridge crest to reach the top of an abseil line down through a cliff band. There are numerous anchors dotted around but the ones marked on the © Rockfax

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50, Mark's Alpine Aspirations.

Hidden 18/Jun -
Michael Morrell 10/Jun AltLd

Great route!

Hidden 17/Jul/16 AltLd
Julian Prieto 07/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
cliffy 07/Jul/16 AltLd
scorpia97 02/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Led in 2 long simul pitches awesome ice/neve on the summit for sunrise and then back down Forbes Arete. Full write up: http://chasingmastery.com/migot-spur-and-forbes-arrete-going-back-for-round-ii/

harry_lewis 28/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with Ben Coope
bencoope 28/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
QuentinSu 26/Nov/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
joelevanschamonix ??/2015 -
joe_lancs 08/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 08/Sep/14 AltLd
alexm198 31/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Moved together. Great conditions, ice runnel was busy so took a variant mixed line to the right at approx Scottish tech 4. Complex descent back to the Albert Premier.

with James Thompson
simondunf 22/Aug/14 AltLd

1 icy pitch in the middle, rest moved together, 1st route of the trip

with caspar
Hidden 21/Aug/14 -
Roberttaylor 04/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Poor conditions, lots of unconsolidated snow kicking around. Descent route was in great nick though. Descended to Argentine same day.

Ali D ?/Aug/14 -
Edvenables ?/Aug/14 -

First Alpine peak, great adventure. Took 13 hours. Bad vis on glacier approach made crevasse-crossing tricky. Unexpected bergschrund. Mixed was fun. Soft snow, calves got super-pumped on steep neve section. Final snow ridge had no gear and felt avalanchey with warm sun, and breakable crust. Narrowly avoided a falling rock. Finished with overhanging rock, great weather on summit. Abseil descent (11 sections?) took forever with storm clouds rolling in. Abbed into Bergschrund and had to swim across collapsing snow bridge. Great fun junping crevasses on the walk back. Missed last telepherique and had to walk down to the valley on sore feet.

with Robert Taylor
DigitalSteak 25/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Superb climb. 3am left Albert Prem, direct approach across glacier but very crevassed so a few wrong turns meant bergshrund at 5.10. Amazing conditions so simul climbed whole route topping out at 7.55am. 4 Hour descent on shitty unconsolidated snow. Amazing day out

Hidden 25/Jul/14 AltLd
Hidden 06/Jul/14 Lead
Sam Ash 06/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Matt Forshaw
Nemmie ?/Jul/14 -
ndraper1 28/Jun/14 -

Bivied in a snow cave 30mins walk into the plateau. 10hrs hole-summit-hole. Found mainly good quality ice & clear rock (bar some sugary wading for a few pitches) and moved together in the most part. Experienced all four seasons and more ina day. We got swirled up in some clouds and snowfall on the descent with some knee buckling gusts that made everything quite serious for a short while. Walked straight down to Le Tour to conclude a fantastic beastly outing. Not to be underestimated.

with Joel Evans
joelevanschamonix 28/Jun/14 AltLd β


Gumery 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

3 hours to climb, 7 to descend. If you've not done the descent before I wouldn't recommend trying it in less then 10m of vis like we did. Great climb though.

McGuinness 20/Jun/14 -
with Dave, Nick
fulton333 ?/Jun/14 Lead

quick on the way up, lost in the fog on way down..

Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
highclimber 25/Sep/13 -

3am start, topped out on summit at 12pm after a long battle with loose unconsolidated snow. had to dig quite deep to get to good ice for protection. Excellent route nonetheless. Lovely weather. got back to the hut for 4pm after opting to return the most direct route.

Hidden 25/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/13 -
Hidden 25/Sep/13 -
Finn Curry 24/Aug/13 2nd

Started at 1:30am, climbed most of it in the dark. A brilliant route.

with Tim Blakemore
HosteDenis ?/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
jcw ??/2013 -
Dave Searle ??/2013 -
James Thacker ??/2013 -
Ben Briggs 01/Dec/12 Solo O/S

Climbed the route planning to ski back down it after the first descent last weekend, but found very bad conditions (for skiing) so skied the west couloir.

with Tom
chrisallan 04/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
theotherpetehill 03/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Rather soft and bare. Chris led two ice pitches from bergschrund and the harder mixed pitches on the spur; I led long runout up sugary snow arete

Ken Applegate 16/Jul/12 AltLd

Great route, approach and descent require a bit of care to negotiate crevasses and bergshrund.

with Scott Kirkhope
Hidden 12/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/12 -
Hidden 24/Jun/12 -
Stuart Johnston 09/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Ben Tibbetts, Misha Gopaul
np134 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with C. Price
Karl Wooffindin 02/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Moved together the entire route. Simply amazing.

with Ollie Hemstock
Hidden 02/Aug/11 Lead O/S
John Workman 05/Jul/11 Lead

Too slow really. I'll blame my age - The Apprentice will blame his 3rd lumbar vertibrae.

with Apprentice
Petarghh 01/Jul/11 Lead dnf

Very good snow conditions to the schrund, after that it went downhill - rapdily, crossed schrund far left (Only safe place to do so) and went into horrible rotten snow, it would appear that there is water running beneath it which has made it slushy and horrible ! felt like the whole slab above the schrund could come off and slide freely as i climbed, Water coming down the first mixed section, needless to say we backed off.

Hidden ?/Jul/11 -
tsl42 ?/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead
tskelhon 01/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Almost a solo, but banged in a few screws

with Max
Hidden 01/Jul/10 2nd
CarolineH 25/Jun/10 -
with Dave
Bristoldave 25/Jun/10 Lead
lawrenceK 21/Jun/10 AltLd
Hidden 09/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
hamish2016 ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

4.5 hours hut to summit

with Tom Ripley
Diggler 29/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with jonah
Hidden 16/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/08 Solo
springaren ?/Jun/08 2nd
with Christian
nickdonohue ?/Sep/07 Lead

great route, quite tricky route finding and involved descent - would be horrible in bad weather

with Colin Morrison
decs 04/Aug/07 -
with Mike
Cham32 ?/Jun/07 -

1st climb of then season - Albert prem was full so bivied in a tent in a gale, so no sleep. Stayed completely on snow/ice, passing close to the seracs, which were not big that yr. Upper section just with enough neve - back at Prem by 12.30

Hidden ?/Sep/06 AltLd
j.anstee 20/Jul/06 2nd O/S

Guided post MB climb.

Hidden 09/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
sgl 09/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
with Konnie
brockers ?/Jul/03 -
with CarlZ
David Horwood 30/Jun/03 -
nige pacer ?/Jul/99 2nd O/S
NickJH ?/Aug/98 AltLd
with JThomas
stokesrees ?/Jun/97 AltLd
with Francois Marcotte
Hidden ?/Jul/96 AltLd
tompercy 07/Jul/95 AltLd
with Ben Bardsley, Amos Preminger, Tom Bridgeland
stokienomad 26/Jul/93 AltLd
Budge ??/1992 AltLd dnf

Retreated after being hit by rockfall

with Dave's Fireman Mate
Pete_Frost 28/Jul/91 AltLd O/S

A good climb with the only difficulties being an easy angled offwidth immediately on the right of the seracs.

with Stuart Turnbull
Hidden ?/Aug/85 -
Hidden ??/1984 -
Hidden ?/Aug/81 AltLd
alpinist63 ??/1981 -
Mike C 11/Aug/80 AltLd

Mostly solo, 2 1/2 pitches with a pair who followed me when I got lost.

with Alain & Janeau Comeau
Hidden ?/Aug/80 -
Falko 01/Aug/79 AltLd O/S
with Martin Kaye
Hidden ?/Aug/77 AltLd
Bolt Phobia 21/Jul/75 AltLd
with Kit Spencer
granitbahn ?/Jul/70 AltLd
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