500m.

Rockfax Description
IV, 450m, 4 - 5 hours. Another classic and an ideal first north face, the Migot provides a feel of seriousness without any particularly difficult climbing.
Approach - When the Glacier du Tour is well filled in, it should be possible to cross it more or less directly to reach the foot of the route. When heavily crevassed, either follow the Forbes Arête approach to the rocks at Pte. 3238m and then head straight for the route from here (move quickly under the seracs). Alternatively, cross the glacier lower down in the direction of the Col du Passon and then climb to the routes past the Aiguille du Passon.
1) Cross the bergschrund and climb mixed gullies (may be dry in late season) through the rock band, to reach the crest of the north ridge. If conditions are poor there is another line further right to get through the rock band, although there is no guarantee that this will be any better than the normal start!
2) Follow the snow ridge as close as possible to the crest to stay safe from potential serac fall.
3) Climb through mixed ground just to the right of the serac. The exact line will depend on conditions. Assuming there is good ice, climb the gully closest to the crest, or the one just to the left to reach the upper snowfield.
4) Follow the snowfield (50 degrees and exposed) in a stunning position to join the Forbes Arête just below the summit.
Descent - From the summit, descend the southwest ridge for 20m to reach the top of a wide 40-45 degree snow couloir dropping down on the right. Descend this, ideally on foot but abseiling from spikes if conditions are bad, sticking to the right (when looking down) as far as possible until you reach a saddle. The couloir is perched above a cliff band so take care and keep concentrating all the way down. From the saddle, continue down the vague ridge crest to reach the top of an abseil line down through a cliff band. There are numerous anchors dotted around but the ones marked on the © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The RockFax description for the descent is a little misleading. From the summit descend onto the ridge and follow it around a leftward turn. From here it is 20m to a sudden steepening in the ridge and the couloir described above. Many people have taken epic-inducing lines down couloirs reached sooner than this one from turning too soon.

Ticklists

Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50, Big Routes, Alpine Dreamz

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
robgixer 23 Jun Lead Great route, not great conditions, first on the route breaking trail from the hut in crusty snow. Some better sections on route but soft mainly. Still made good time 2hour approach 4 on route. Both bergschrunds problematic
Great route, not great conditions, first on the route breaking trail from the hut in crusty snow. Some better sections on route but soft mainly. Still made good time 2hour approach 4 on route. Both bergschrunds problematic
CharleyAnn 23 Jun 2nd
James Rigby 19 Jun AltLd O/S Moved together, Lead first/ second snow slopes and the first rock band.
Moved together, Lead first/ second snow slopes and the first rock band.
Hidden 19 Jun AltLd O/S
tradisrad 19 Jun AltLd O/S Not quite as acclimated as I thought!
Not quite as acclimated as I thought!
JoeCoxson 8 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S A massive effort. Nowhere near guidebook time, but off zero acclimatisation. 12 hrs from tent to tent (1er). Made good progress at the start, but the altitude took its toll on the upper snowfield (ice field now on the top section), and with at least a dozen teams on the Forbes arete, we got caught in a lot of faff on the way down. Crossed the bergschrund in the centre of the face where it was smallest, so took a higher line up through the loose ground to reach the base of the mixed gullies direct. Broken sunglasses, near miss rock falls, stuck ropes and baking temperatures; all the ingredients of an epic, but we were on top of it the whole way.
A massive effort. Nowhere near guidebook time, but off zero acclimatisation. 12 hrs from tent to tent (1er). Made good progress at the start, but the altitude took its toll on the upper snowfield (ice field now on the top section), and with at least a dozen teams on the Forbes arete, we got caught in a lot of faff on the way down. Crossed the bergschrund in the centre of the face where it was smallest, so took a higher line up through the loose ground to reach the base of the mixed gullies direct. Broken sunglasses, near miss rock falls, stuck ropes and baking temperatures; all the ingredients of an epic, but we were on top of it the whole way.
lukegorman 8 Jul, 2018 AltLd Got it done. Zero acclimatization.
Got it done. Zero acclimatization.
yakov 29 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S First gully was very dry, not difficult, but quite precarious climbing. Second gully had good ice except for the start. Technical crux was perhaps crossing the schrund at the very bottom. Got a bit of altitude sickness at the top as this was only the second day of the trip. Descent isn't all straight forward. Great day on the mountain!
First gully was very dry, not difficult, but quite precarious climbing. Second gully had good ice except for the start. Technical crux was perhaps crossing the schrund at the very bottom. Got a bit of altitude sickness at the top as this was only the second day of the trip. Descent isn't all straight forward. Great day on the mountain!
nickb1 28 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Oliver Smaje 27 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Jamie
with Jamie
Rob_Morris1996 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Best route of the season and of my alpine career so far! Great climbing in some spectacular situations, will remember the sunrise hitting the serac next to us for a while yet. Never too hard but serious enough. Back in the valley for late afternoon and a pizza at the campsite!
Best route of the season and of my alpine career so far! Great climbing in some spectacular situations, will remember the sunrise hitting the serac next to us for a while yet. Never too hard but serious enough. Back in the valley for late afternoon and a pizza at the campsite!
steve_gibbs 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Rob Morris, Robbie Blease
with Rob Morris, Robbie Blease
Robbie Blease 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd What a route!!! Probably my favourite route in the alps so far, exactly what I wanted! Was epic enough to be amazing but not scary.
with Rob Morris, steve_gibbs
What a route!!! Probably my favourite route in the alps so far, exactly what I wanted! Was epic enough to be amazing but not scary.
with Rob Morris, steve_gibbs
James.houghton 20 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Fantastic route! Look at what Matt said for details. First section is very chossy and scary, but above that the climbing is super. Left hut at 2:15 and back at 11. What a day!
Fantastic route! Look at what Matt said for details. First section is very chossy and scary, but above that the climbing is super. Left hut at 2:15 and back at 11. What a day!
mattdennies 20 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Left the hut at 2.15, 2 hours approach, 3 hours from bergschrund to summit. Crossed the bergschrund on the left at its lowest point and went up a couloir on the left which was horrifically chossy and scary most the way until some neve near the top. The middle mixed section above the snowy bay was brilliant with plenty of ice and the top snow slope was stepped out. Only abseiled twice on descent so I think we down-climbed the first abseil. Snowbridges across all the bergschrunds on descent but a bit scary with softening snow. Back at the hut by 11.
Left the hut at 2.15, 2 hours approach, 3 hours from bergschrund to summit. Crossed the bergschrund on the left at its lowest point and went up a couloir on the left which was horrifically chossy and scary most the way until some neve near the top. The middle mixed section above the snowy bay was brilliant with plenty of ice and the top snow slope was stepped out. Only abseiled twice on descent so I think we down-climbed the first abseil. Snowbridges across all the bergschrunds on descent but a bit scary with softening snow. Back at the hut by 11.
a_m154 20 Jun, 2018 AltLd Great route in great conditions for us! A little marred by the AMS unfortunately for me, thanks Matt and James for looking after me!
Great route in great conditions for us! A little marred by the AMS unfortunately for me, thanks Matt and James for looking after me!
Blackcountrybill 10 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Simmuld everything
Simmuld everything
Andy Lagan 18 Jun, 2017 - Very nice route, but the recent heat wave has had effect. The mixed start is now dry, and the descent on the glacier is now already open.
Very nice route, but the recent heat wave has had effect. The mixed start is now dry, and the descent on the glacier is now already open.
Michael Morrell 10 Jun, 2017 AltLd Great route!
Great route!
bogpetre 20 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Julian Prieto 7 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
cliffy 7 Jul, 2016 AltLd
scorpia97 2 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Led in 2 long simul pitches awesome ice/neve on the summit for sunrise and then back down Forbes Arete. Full write up: http://chasingmastery.com/migot-spur-and-forbes-arrete-going-back-for-round-ii/
Led in 2 long simul pitches awesome ice/neve on the summit for sunrise and then back down Forbes Arete. Full write up: http://chasingmastery.com/migot-spur-and-forbes-arrete-going-back-for-round-ii/
harry_lewis 28 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Ben Coope
with Ben Coope
bencoope 28 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
QuentinSu 26 Nov, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
joelevanschamonix ??, 2015 -
joe_lancs 8 Sep, 2014 Lead
Hidden 8 Sep, 2014 AltLd
alexm198 31 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Moved together. Great conditions, ice runnel was busy so took a variant mixed line to the right at approx Scottish tech 4. Complex descent back to the Albert Premier.
with James Thompson
Moved together. Great conditions, ice runnel was busy so took a variant mixed line to the right at approx Scottish tech 4. Complex descent back to the Albert Premier.
with James Thompson
simondunf 22 Aug, 2014 AltLd 1 icy pitch in the middle, rest moved together, 1st route of the trip
with caspar
1 icy pitch in the middle, rest moved together, 1st route of the trip
with caspar
Hidden 21 Aug, 2014 -
Roberttaylor 4 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Poor conditions, lots of unconsolidated snow kicking around. Descent route was in great nick though. Descended to Argentine same day.
Poor conditions, lots of unconsolidated snow kicking around. Descent route was in great nick though. Descended to Argentine same day.
Ali D ?Aug, 2014 -
Edvenables ?Aug, 2014 - First Alpine peak, great adventure. Took 13 hours. Bad vis on glacier approach made crevasse-crossing tricky. Unexpected bergschrund. Mixed was fun. Soft snow, calves got super-pumped on steep neve section. Final snow ridge had no gear and felt avalanchey with warm sun, and breakable crust. Narrowly avoided a falling rock. Finished with overhanging rock, great weather on summit. Abseil descent (11 sections?) took forever with storm clouds rolling in. Abbed into Bergschrund and had to swim across collapsing snow bridge. Great fun junping crevasses on the walk back. Missed last telepherique and had to walk down to the valley on sore feet.
with Robert Taylor
First Alpine peak, great adventure. Took 13 hours. Bad vis on glacier approach made crevasse-crossing tricky. Unexpected bergschrund. Mixed was fun. Soft snow, calves got super-pumped on steep neve section. Final snow ridge had no gear and felt avalanchey with warm sun, and breakable crust. Narrowly avoided a falling rock. Finished with overhanging rock, great weather on summit. Abseil descent (11 sections?) took forever with storm clouds rolling in. Abbed into Bergschrund and had to swim across collapsing snow bridge. Great fun junping crevasses on the walk back. Missed last telepherique and had to walk down to the valley on sore feet.
with Robert Taylor
DigitalSteak 25 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Superb climb. 3am left Albert Prem, direct approach across glacier but very crevassed so a few wrong turns meant bergshrund at 5.10. Amazing conditions so simul climbed whole route topping out at 7.55am. 4 Hour descent on shitty unconsolidated snow. Amazing day out
Superb climb. 3am left Albert Prem, direct approach across glacier but very crevassed so a few wrong turns meant bergshrund at 5.10. Amazing conditions so simul climbed whole route topping out at 7.55am. 4 Hour descent on shitty unconsolidated snow. Amazing day out
Hidden 25 Jul, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 6 Jul, 2014 Lead
Sam Ash 6 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Matt Forshaw
with Matt Forshaw
Nemmie ?Jul, 2014 -
ndraper1 28 Jun, 2014 - Bivied in a snow cave 30mins walk into the plateau. 10hrs hole-summit-hole. Found mainly good quality ice & clear rock (bar some sugary wading for a few pitches) and moved together in the most part. Experienced all four seasons and more ina day. We got swirled up in some clouds and snowfall on the descent with some knee buckling gusts that made everything quite serious for a short while. Walked straight down to Le Tour to conclude a fantastic beastly outing. Not to be underestimated.
with Joel Evans
Bivied in a snow cave 30mins walk into the plateau. 10hrs hole-summit-hole. Found mainly good quality ice & clear rock (bar some sugary wading for a few pitches) and moved together in the most part. Experienced all four seasons and more ina day. We got swirled up in some clouds and snowfall on the descent with some knee buckling gusts that made everything quite serious for a short while. Walked straight down to Le Tour to conclude a fantastic beastly outing. Not to be underestimated.
with Joel Evans
joelevanschamonix 28 Jun, 2014 AltLd β http://joelevanschamonix.com/2014/06/29/migot-spur-aiguille-du-chardonnet-3824m/
http://joelevanschamonix.com/2014/06/29/migot-spur-aiguille-du-chardonnet-3824m/
Gumery 22 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S 3 hours to climb, 7 to descend. If you've not done the descent before I wouldn't recommend trying it in less then 10m of vis like we did. Great climb though.
3 hours to climb, 7 to descend. If you've not done the descent before I wouldn't recommend trying it in less then 10m of vis like we did. Great climb though.
McGuinness 20 Jun, 2014 -
with Dave, Nick
with Dave, Nick
Grant Fulton ?Jun, 2014 Lead quick on the way up, lost in the fog on way down..
quick on the way up, lost in the fog on way down..
Hidden ??, 2014 -
Hidden ??, 2014 -
highclimber 25 Sep, 2013 - 3am start, topped out on summit at 12pm after a long battle with loose unconsolidated snow. had to dig quite deep to get to good ice for protection. Excellent route nonetheless. Lovely weather. got back to the hut for 4pm after opting to return the most direct route.
3am start, topped out on summit at 12pm after a long battle with loose unconsolidated snow. had to dig quite deep to get to good ice for protection. Excellent route nonetheless. Lovely weather. got back to the hut for 4pm after opting to return the most direct route.
Hidden 25 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Sep, 2013 -
Hidden 25 Sep, 2013 -
Finn Curry 24 Aug, 2013 2nd Started at 1:30am, climbed most of it in the dark. A brilliant route.
with Tim Blakemore
Started at 1:30am, climbed most of it in the dark. A brilliant route.
with Tim Blakemore
HosteDenis ?Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
jcw ??, 2013 -
Dave Searle ??, 2013 -
James Thacker ??, 2013 -
Ben Briggs 1 Dec, 2012 Solo O/S Climbed the route planning to ski back down it after the first descent last weekend, but found very bad conditions (for skiing) so skied the west couloir.
with Tom
Climbed the route planning to ski back down it after the first descent last weekend, but found very bad conditions (for skiing) so skied the west couloir.
with Tom
chrisallan 4 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
theotherpetehill 3 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Rather soft and bare. Chris led two ice pitches from bergschrund and the harder mixed pitches on the spur; I led long runout up sugary snow arete
Rather soft and bare. Chris led two ice pitches from bergschrund and the harder mixed pitches on the spur; I led long runout up sugary snow arete
Ken Applegate 16 Jul, 2012 AltLd Great route, approach and descent require a bit of care to negotiate crevasses and bergshrund.
with Scott Kirkhope
Great route, approach and descent require a bit of care to negotiate crevasses and bergshrund.
with Scott Kirkhope
Hidden 12 Jul, 2012 2nd
Hidden ?Jul, 2012 -
Hidden 24 Jun, 2012 -
Stuart Johnston 9 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Ben Tibbetts, Misha Gopaul
with Ben Tibbetts, Misha Gopaul
np134 6 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
with C. Price
with C. Price
Karl Wooffindin 2 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Moved together the entire route. Simply amazing.
with Ollie Hemstock
Moved together the entire route. Simply amazing.
with Ollie Hemstock
Hidden 2 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
John Workman 5 Jul, 2011 Lead Too slow really. I'll blame my age - The Apprentice will blame his 3rd lumbar vertibrae.
with Apprentice
Too slow really. I'll blame my age - The Apprentice will blame his 3rd lumbar vertibrae.
with Apprentice
Petarghh 1 Jul, 2011 Lead dnf Very good snow conditions to the schrund, after that it went downhill - rapdily, crossed schrund far left (Only safe place to do so) and went into horrible rotten snow, it would appear that there is water running beneath it which has made it slushy and horrible ! felt like the whole slab above the schrund could come off and slide freely as i climbed, Water coming down the first mixed section, needless to say we backed off.
Very good snow conditions to the schrund, after that it went downhill - rapdily, crossed schrund far left (Only safe place to do so) and went into horrible rotten snow, it would appear that there is water running beneath it which has made it slushy and horrible ! felt like the whole slab above the schrund could come off and slide freely as i climbed, Water coming down the first mixed section, needless to say we backed off.
ChrisDavis ?Jul, 2011 -
tsl42 ?Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Aug, 2010 Lead
with Nik Bertholdt
with Nik Bertholdt
tskelhon 1 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S Almost a solo, but banged in a few screws
with Max
Almost a solo, but banged in a few screws
with Max
Hidden 1 Jul, 2010 2nd
CarolineH 25 Jun, 2010 -
Bristoldave 25 Jun, 2010 Lead
lawrenceK 21 Jun, 2010 AltLd
Rob84 9 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Chris James
with Chris James
hamish2016 ?Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S 4.5 hours hut to summit
with Tom Ripley
4.5 hours hut to summit
with Tom Ripley
Diggler 29 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
with jonah
with jonah
Hidden 16 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Jun, 2008 Solo
springaren ?Jun, 2008 2nd
with Christian
with Christian
nickdonohue ?Sep, 2007 Lead great route, quite tricky route finding and involved descent - would be horrible in bad weather
with Colin Morrison
great route, quite tricky route finding and involved descent - would be horrible in bad weather
with Colin Morrison
decs 4 Aug, 2007 -
Cham32 ?Jun, 2007 - 1st climb of then season - Albert prem was full so bivied in a tent in a gale, so no sleep. Stayed completely on snow/ice, passing close to the seracs, which were not big that yr. Upper section just with enough neve - back at Prem by 12.30
1st climb of then season - Albert prem was full so bivied in a tent in a gale, so no sleep. Stayed completely on snow/ice, passing close to the seracs, which were not big that yr. Upper section just with enough neve - back at Prem by 12.30
Hidden ?Sep, 2006 AltLd
j.anstee 20 Jul, 2006 2nd O/S Guided post MB climb.
Guided post MB climb.
Hidden 9 Jun, 2005 AltLd O/S
sgl 9 Jun, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Konnie
with Konnie
brockers ?Jul, 2003 -
with CarlZ
with CarlZ
David Horwood 30 Jun, 2003 -
nige pacer ?Jul, 1999 2nd O/S
with Rich Vowles
with Rich Vowles
NickJH ?Aug, 1998 AltLd
with JThomas
with JThomas
stokesrees ?Jun, 1997 AltLd
with Francois Marcotte
with Francois Marcotte
Hidden ?Jul, 1996 AltLd
tompercy 7 Jul, 1995 AltLd
with Ben Bardsley, Amos Preminger, Tom Bridgeland
with Ben Bardsley, Amos Preminger, Tom Bridgeland
stokienomad 26 Jul, 1993 AltLd
Budge ??, 1992 AltLd dnf Retreated after being hit by rockfall
with Dave's Fireman Mate
Retreated after being hit by rockfall
with Dave's Fireman Mate
Pete_Frost 28 Jul, 1991 AltLd O/S A good climb with the only difficulties being an easy angled offwidth immediately on the right of the seracs.
with Stuart Turnbull
A good climb with the only difficulties being an easy angled offwidth immediately on the right of the seracs.
with Stuart Turnbull
Neil McA 10 Jul, 1988 Lead excellent little mixed route!
with Alice Eisele
excellent little mixed route!
with Alice Eisele
Hidden ?Aug, 1985 -
Hidden ??, 1984 -
Hidden ?Aug, 1981 AltLd
alpinist63 ??, 1981 -
Mike C 11 Aug, 1980 AltLd Mostly solo, 2 1/2 pitches with a pair who followed me when I got lost.
with Alain & Janeau Comeau
Mostly solo, 2 1/2 pitches with a pair who followed me when I got lost.
with Alain & Janeau Comeau
Hidden ?Aug, 1980 -
Falko 1 Aug, 1979 AltLd O/S
with Martin Kaye
with Martin Kaye
Hidden ?Aug, 1977 AltLd
Bolt Phobia 21 Jul, 1975 AltLd
with Kit Spencer
with Kit Spencer
granitbahn ?Jul, 1970 AltLd
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Voting
High D
Mid D
Low D
High D-
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Low D-
High AD+
Mid AD+
Low AD+
Votes cast 13
High 4
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Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
High 2
Mid 2
Low 2
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
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DNF
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