Rockfax Description
The big overhanging chimney with a roof at its top and an airy continuation above. This is one for the wide crack specialist. Start from a small ledge below the steep wall on the left of the chimney. Large cams and long slings are useful!
1) 5c, 20m. Gain and climb the chimney from the left via a groove - there is a huge cavern hidden in the chimney as you enter it. Either belay here or head up to belay off a large thread.
2) 6b, 15m. Carry on! This involves thrutching up the chimney before bridging/wedging yourself out across the roof to reach a wide crack. Climb this to the top. © Rockfax
North Wales Rock Graded List , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Craciau Llydan Gogledd Cymru , Journey Through Welsh Crack Climbing
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Grade: E5 6a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)