Rockfax Description
An intimidating line which gains the hanging corner in the centre of the cliff. Start on the huge boulder that rests against the base of the right-hand side of the crag.
Climb up the quartz-flecked wall to a small overlap, and just beyond a left-trending groove line. Move left to steep rock below the corner. Climb through the steep rock just left of the corner then move into the corner and climb it to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Another excellent long Kenidjack route taking a fairly direct line up to the right corner of the main face. Start on the huge boulder and trend rightwards to pull over the end of the narrow overhang at around 8m. Continue up the groove system and than a slab above until a pull over the overhang can be made near its left hand side. Step rightwards into the corner and ascend that to the top by some absorbing moves.

P R Littlejohn, S B Jones 31/Mar/1974

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist, CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings.


ClimberDateStyle
ClimbingAlex 31/May Lead O/S

Looks intimidating from the bottom but the climbing is quite steady though sustained in the upper section. Found the gear a bit fiddly to place; seemed quite sparse but it's there if you look!

with Matt
JakeB. 20/May Lead O/S

Another nice route, led badly by me again...

Wendy Watthews 20/May 2nd rpt
with JakeB.
Alison Cairns 18/May 2nd rpt
with Maria
Dave Almond 15/May Lead O/S

Bmc International meet

with Joni Kuusenmaki
G Weatherley 14/Apr 2nd
with Ed Walker
rd20 27/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Loic
loic.menzies ?/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Dilwat 15/Jul/16 Lead O/S

What a great climb. Spaced but good pro and a fantastic top groove/corner.

with Dave P
Alison Cairns 06/Jul/16 Lead O/S

I really liked this route, in some respects better than rock dancer IMO. Long & sustained, the gear is there all the way if you look hard enough! You get a real sense of isolation leading the top groove on this!

with Keith S
Teappleby 15/Jun/16 Lead

Beautiful climb. Had to give myself a small talking to on the 4b traverse out the quartz. My usual problem of failing to trust any rock that isn't grit to not just collapse or break when I touch it. Once I got past that, great climbing especially in the top groove.

Dawn_K_B 15/Jun/16 2nd O/S
poeter210 25/Oct/15 2nd O/S

E1 for seriousness in the top corner, more like lots of 5a than 5b

druss 25/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Run out between psychological gear. Not hard climbing and pays to keep going carefully. Slightly easier than Rock Dancer.

manbat 15/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Great route, maybe a touch easier than Rock Dancer? But still E1. Adequately protected.

Lumbering Oaf 15/Oct/15 2nd O/S

A good route with an interesting crux section. Pro looked fiddly in places but good. Upper groove has really fun climbing.

Hidden 03/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Jelly Mould Surfer 06/Sep/15 2nd O/S

Not any one super hard move, but it keeps on coming

Jack Porteous 28/Jul/15 2nd O/S
benkelsey 05/Jul/15 Lead O/S

So warm

with Shaun Humphreys
JoeCoxson 20/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Wendy led, not as hard as it looks, some nice moves up the corner.

Wendy Watthews 20/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Easy to start on big holds then steady climbing in the corner a little run out at the start of the corner

with Luke, joe c
lukegorman 20/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Mike_Hayes 20/May/15 2nd
with dan parkes
Hidden ??/2015 -
beni ??/2015 Lead O/S
alastairbegley 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Enjoyable route, a bit runout up the corner

with Nick Eaton
Hidden 21/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/14 2nd O/S
tash 27/Jul/14 2nd
with ali k
Hidden 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
oddtoast 10/Jul/14 2nd

Another wonderful route, lots going on.

with Gav
Hidden 10/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
JonHarvey 06/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Jay Jackson, Jayne Bulbeck
Binder 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Felt a bit scary at times but very satisfying.

with Spike R, Tim C
Hidden ??/2014 Lead O/S
AndyMcCoy 27/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Bill
alice fuller 23/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Sep/13 Lead O/S
mutt 13/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Misha 16/May/13 Lead O/S

Good, varied route. A bit run out for a few metres in the corner. With Viktor from Sweden on the BMC international meet. Also seconded Viktor up Saxon and Rock Dancer - also good routes. The crag was fairly wet when we turned up but soon mostly dried out. It stayed dry while people at Bosigran got a thorough soaking! However it was dry over there by the time we got on Desolation Row at 5pm.

with Viktor
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden 14/Sep/12 2nd
stuart34 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
s.c.white 08/Sep/12 -
Nick Wallis ?/Sep/12 Lead
with Martin Cooper
Bex_M 22/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Duncan Dunbar
Hidden 04/Jun/12 2nd
cem 06/Apr/12 2nd rpt
Dave Rumney 31/Mar/12 Lead

bold going up the corner

with Tanya Milner
Spearos 20/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Master Chief 20/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
andybenham 26/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Ace route. Small gear useful

gowla 08/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with will kumar
Dave Heaton 16/Sep/11 2nd
with Martin Cathrow
goi.ashmore 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
Marti999 10/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Graham C 10/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Marti
Cheese Monkey 28/Jul/11 Lead O/S

My first E1! Felt harder than Rock Dancer, and less gear further up. Took me quite a while to get up it, but it was worth it. Well chuffed. Really nice hard climbing (for me) too.

with Phil, Paul
Hidden 13/Jul/11 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/11 Lead
masa-alpin 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Cornish Cenotaph Corner. Pleasant climb, though the gear was a bit sparse.

with Jo B, Doug S
Hidden 28/Aug/10 2nd
Nel Tindale 28/Aug/10 2nd β
with Jim Jarvis
Hidden 16/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S
gripped01 ?/Aug/10 Lead
with Nel Tindale
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 20/Aug/09 2nd O/S
datoon 11/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with S
KRB 09/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Martin Bridges
Hidden 06/Jun/07 Lead O/S
sinbad 21/Apr/07 2nd
eddy-on-the-rocks 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Sinbad
BarbsMurray 06/Aug/06 2nd
with Mikey
Different Steve 17/Apr/06 2nd rpt
with Steve Gray
Hidden ??/2006 -
cem 11/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/04 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Apr/03 2nd
Hidden 10/Aug/01 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 27/Jul/01 2nd O/S
with Viv
Roget 15/Aug/99 Lead O/S
with jim
Hidden ??/1998 2nd
Hidden 29/Mar/97 -
GAtkins 22/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with Andy Russell
Hidden 06/Sep/90 2nd
andy gittins ??/1990 -
Neil R 20/Aug/86 Lead O/S
with Sharon
Campbell42 ?/Aug/84 Lead O/S
with Eric Marsden
neilh 02/May/82 Lead O/S

Was HVS at the time, remembe rit being sparsely but well protected. E1 right grade

with dave croker
Paul Clarke ??/1978 -
with FMC
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 27
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 26
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set