62m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An amazing route, and probably the most coveted E5 on the Main Cliff. The third pitch is a totally 'out there' experience that will live with you for a long time. Start at ledges 18m past the Gogarth pinnacle, just right of an arete and where the higher platform drops in height.
1) 5c, 20m. Move up and right into a scoop, then traverse back left to a small ear-like flake. From here, head up and slightly left to a ramp, and follow it left to the arete. Arrange what gear you can and make a crux pull over a bulge to reach easier ground and a belay below the chimney groove of The Rat Race.
2) 6a, 15m. Move up into the chimney/groove as for The Rat Race and arrange some high runners. Move down and make a dramatic traverse left on sloping holds and pinches to the arete. Pull round on a nipple of rock, and somehow gain the groove. Follow this more easily to reach the shared belay below the horrid looking chimney on The Rat Race.
3) 6a, 30m. An amazing pitch. From the belay, move out left onto a spike in the rib. From here, you can see a diagonal crack soaring across an imposing headwall. Climb the crack, first below it, then making a hard transition to above it. Eventually you can traverse out left below an overlap and make a strenuous move over the left-hand end of it. Carry on up easier ground until you can step left into the groove of Dinosaur and bridge up this to a belay on a spacious ledge.
4) Finish up Dinosaur (previous page) or Cordon Bleau. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
According to Alex Sharpe this was 'an extremely strenuous and sustained route up very steep rock. The top pitch is phenomenally impressive and is one of the hardest routes at Gogarth'. In fact it is a little disjointed, pitch 2 being short and artificial. Pitch 3 is the highlight. Stevie Haston soloed this years ago.

Alan Rouse and Peter Minks. FFA Alex Sharpe. Mar/1971

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Top five E5s, Very good routes in the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, Main Cliff Big E5s, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E5 ticklist, James' Summer Ticklist, CUMC First Ascents, Stanners lifetime Onsight list (because what else is there to do?), Wales Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
ian bryant 14 May AltLd rpt
Katekeltie 5 May 2nd dog
markalmack 5 May Lead O/S
with Trouble Bird
with Trouble Bird
harry_lewis 4 May AltLd O/S Led P2 and 4, another one off the lifetime list.
with Jwatson
Led P2 and 4, another one off the lifetime list.
with Jwatson
Jwatson 4 May AltLd G/U 1 fall on pitch 3, perhaps a bit full on for first route at gogarth and first real trad in a while, what a pitch though.
1 fall on pitch 3, perhaps a bit full on for first route at gogarth and first real trad in a while, what a pitch though.
mrblack ?? -
Hidden 30 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
Andy Moles 23 Aug, 2018 AltLd Rat Race into Positron headwall with Dinosaur exit pitch, great link up.
with Ben Silvestre
Rat Race into Positron headwall with Dinosaur exit pitch, great link up.
with Ben Silvestre
Robb Bert 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Led P2 & 4. No dramas. Perfect weather and conditions. Great day out.
with Will Harris
Led P2 & 4. No dramas. Perfect weather and conditions. Great day out.
with Will Harris
piken 16 Jun, 2018 AltLd After the rain ... an empty gogarth
with Mike Wilson
After the rain ... an empty gogarth
with Mike Wilson
MikePycroft 13 Jun, 2018 AltLd dog Ended up a wet windy ascent which Marcus did the hard work I led p2. Spitting by the time we did p3, raining on p4 and stormy as we walked out, Hector had arrived early. Bit of a contrast to the sun soaked Llanberis pass the night before.
with Marcus, Ceffin
Ended up a wet windy ascent which Marcus did the hard work I led p2. Spitting by the time we did p3, raining on p4 and stormy as we walked out, Hector had arrived early. Bit of a contrast to the sun soaked Llanberis pass the night before.
with Marcus, Ceffin
Adam24B 10 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Did p1 and p3. What a stunning route, we got an early start and missed most of the sun which is just as well because it became unbearably hot later on. A bit of grease on the lower pitches but nothing major, the third pitch is a great out there experience. Nothing to hard, just sustained. Did in 3hrs
Did p1 and p3. What a stunning route, we got an early start and missed most of the sun which is just as well because it became unbearably hot later on. A bit of grease on the lower pitches but nothing major, the third pitch is a great out there experience. Nothing to hard, just sustained. Did in 3hrs
M_Robinson 10 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Led P2+4. Excellent route, 2nd pitch felt insecure but everything was there. The third pitch was excellent, with nothing but the sea below you
with Adam24B
Led P2+4. Excellent route, 2nd pitch felt insecure but everything was there. The third pitch was excellent, with nothing but the sea below you
with Adam24B
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 13 May, 2018 Lead O/S Just the main pitch as part of Ordinary route. Double e5 tick
Just the main pitch as part of Ordinary route. Double e5 tick
James Oswald 12 May, 2018 Lead dnf Slightly sad not to get to the top but great experience. Did RFRF the previous day and so started very tired. Ferdia was injured so I was doing all of the leading. Got to below the 3rd pitch - tired already. Then ropes got stuck in the crack because I didn't extend the runner in the bottom of rat race enough - got pumped pulling it out. Went a little too high then fell off. Long rest - then second attempt I got to the jug really pumped and then tried frantically to put a cam in above my head. Was too pumped and put cam in mouth and whipped off - big, soft fall as gear was 1.5m below feet. Next go got the cam in then didn't have strength to continue so lowered off wired. We then abseiled from belay at end of p2. Will come back and swing leads - got very dehydrated on this one so will come back when it's cooler. Amazing route.
with ferdia
Slightly sad not to get to the top but great experience. Did RFRF the previous day and so started very tired. Ferdia was injured so I was doing all of the leading. Got to below the 3rd pitch - tired already. Then ropes got stuck in the crack because I didn't extend the runner in the bottom of rat race enough - got pumped pulling it out. Went a little too high then fell off. Long rest - then second attempt I got to the jug really pumped and then tried frantically to put a cam in above my head. Was too pumped and put cam in mouth and whipped off - big, soft fall as gear was 1.5m below feet. Next go got the cam in then didn't have strength to continue so lowered off wired. We then abseiled from belay at end of p2. Will come back and swing leads - got very dehydrated on this one so will come back when it's cooler. Amazing route.
with ferdia
shaunhumphreys 21 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S P1 & 3 don't think I've ever built a route up in my head this much! Been a long term goal with ben ever since climbing at the G. Felt absolutely amazing to finally get it done! Was a bit of a shambles at the start, ended up basically at the arête and it was feeling a bit bold and wasn't committing but really didn't want to blow the onsight so down climbed the entire pitch! After de pumping got back on and 2 moves higher there was some gear round the arête and it felt totally fine! The rest of the route was absolutely class, and a bit greasy, it felt pretty near the limit in parts! Dont think I've ever been so scared of spannering easy climbing than after the roof on p3! Took about 5 hours in total I think! Team slow!
P1 & 3 don't think I've ever built a route up in my head this much! Been a long term goal with ben ever since climbing at the G. Felt absolutely amazing to finally get it done! Was a bit of a shambles at the start, ended up basically at the arête and it was feeling a bit bold and wasn't committing but really didn't want to blow the onsight so down climbed the entire pitch! After de pumping got back on and 2 moves higher there was some gear round the arête and it felt totally fine! The rest of the route was absolutely class, and a bit greasy, it felt pretty near the limit in parts! Dont think I've ever been so scared of spannering easy climbing than after the roof on p3! Took about 5 hours in total I think! Team slow!
benkelsey 21 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S Two years chatting on - finally got around to it. Lead 2 (Lead of my life) and 4 (Dinosaur finish). Glorious day but greasy. First E5 onsight. Phenomenal!
with Shaun Humphreys
Two years chatting on - finally got around to it. Lead 2 (Lead of my life) and 4 (Dinosaur finish). Glorious day but greasy. First E5 onsight. Phenomenal!
with Shaun Humphreys
Hidden 4 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
amccann 24 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Led 2+3, found passing the overlap on pitch 2 to be harder than the whole 3rd pitch, turns out I did it in a very strenuous way... 3rd pitch was awesome, took the time to enjoy it and couldn't see anyone else, just my ropes disappearing around the corner.
Led 2+3, found passing the overlap on pitch 2 to be harder than the whole 3rd pitch, turns out I did it in a very strenuous way... 3rd pitch was awesome, took the time to enjoy it and couldn't see anyone else, just my ropes disappearing around the corner.
MSchobitz 24 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Led p1&4. Solid leads by Alex on p2&3. Found p2 easier than him, where I think I stuck more to the guidebook line. P3 isn't ever nails, just a race against the pump! Nice tick as first ever route on main cliff!
with amccann
Led p1&4. Solid leads by Alex on p2&3. Found p2 easier than him, where I think I stuck more to the guidebook line. P3 isn't ever nails, just a race against the pump! Nice tick as first ever route on main cliff!
with amccann
mim tiller 4 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S I lead pitches 2 & 4, pitch 3 was awesome and pumpy. Ace
I lead pitches 2 & 4, pitch 3 was awesome and pumpy. Ace
andyinglis 4 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Brilliant route, great rock and exposure! Led P1 and P3.
with Tim Miller
Brilliant route, great rock and exposure! Led P1 and P3.
with Tim Miller
pete johnson 28 May, 2017 AltLd rpt I led p1 and 4.
I led p1 and 4.
Billg 12 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S What a route !! Led all 4 pitches. (P1 was soaking and felt the most intimidating of the lot!)
with Will Calvert
What a route !! Led all 4 pitches. (P1 was soaking and felt the most intimidating of the lot!)
with Will Calvert
Flavio 3 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
Tom Livingstone 2 Jul, 2016 AltLd rpt Led odds
with Adam Russell
Led odds
with Adam Russell
Hidden 2 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 3 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
Andrew Wilson 28 May, 2016 AltLd I led P1 and 4. Bottom pitch was greasy. Veered off route towards Rat Race slightly on P2, so had to reverse the moves to the slippy pinch and then step left to a good hold on the arête. Weighted the rope at this point. Happy with how it went for first E5. P3 brilliant, just enough rests. Amazing stuff.
I led P1 and 4. Bottom pitch was greasy. Veered off route towards Rat Race slightly on P2, so had to reverse the moves to the slippy pinch and then step left to a good hold on the arête. Weighted the rope at this point. Happy with how it went for first E5. P3 brilliant, just enough rests. Amazing stuff.
ian bryant 28 May, 2016 AltLd
Mike_Hayes 22 May, 2016 AltLd O/S P2 and P4 - Mega
with John Nightingale
P2 and P4 - Mega
with John Nightingale
Hidden ??, 2016 -
ian bryant ??, 2016 Lead O/S
Twid Turner ??, 2016 -
Duncan Campbell 11 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S Just p3 as part of ordinary route. Absolutely brilliant! felt really intimidated at the start of the pitch, got really pumped and had to run it out from where the crack petered out to the roof. Just about made it. Find main cliff difficult if I'm honest. Keen to head back for the full thing.
with Michaela "the champ" Tracy
Just p3 as part of ordinary route. Absolutely brilliant! felt really intimidated at the start of the pitch, got really pumped and had to run it out from where the crack petered out to the roof. Just about made it. Find main cliff difficult if I'm honest. Keen to head back for the full thing.
with Michaela "the champ" Tracy
Ed Babs 15 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead P3 & 4. P3 was the lead of my life!
with IainAM
Lead P3 & 4. P3 was the lead of my life!
with IainAM
Tom Livingstone 10 Aug, 2015 AltLd rpt Finished up Positron P3/P4 after Alien. An incredible combo. Led P4
Finished up Positron P3/P4 after Alien. An incredible combo. Led P4
Nickc ?Aug, 2015 Lead O/S every pitch
every pitch
Hidden 19 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
samwillo 10 Jul, 2015 AltLd A good climb, suffered from being massively overrated though - the horrible smeg probably didn't help. Good leads by Uisdean. What is the point of P2?
A good climb, suffered from being massively overrated though - the horrible smeg probably didn't help. Good leads by Uisdean. What is the point of P2?
Uisdean hawthorn 10 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S A good route led 1&3. Pitch one a bit greasy, felt hard. Headwall pitch is good. But would only get 2 stars on the islands.
A good route led 1&3. Pitch one a bit greasy, felt hard. Headwall pitch is good. But would only get 2 stars on the islands.
NDD 20 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S Headwall pitch as part of OR.
with tony stone
Headwall pitch as part of OR.
with tony stone
Hidden 18 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
will smith11 18 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S My first sea cliff experience. Awesome! Led pitches 2 and 4.
with James
My first sea cliff experience. Awesome! Led pitches 2 and 4.
with James
Hidden 16 May, 2015 Lead O/S
mike lawrence? 21 Sep, 2014 - led top 5c pitch, one of the great climbs
led top 5c pitch, one of the great climbs
morganator 7 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Finally got round to doing it! Wicked fun- led both hard pitches
with Dan Arkle
Finally got round to doing it! Wicked fun- led both hard pitches
with Dan Arkle
Hidden 5 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
Luxulyan 3 Jul, 2014 AltLd dog
with Tom Murrell
with Tom Murrell
theotherpetehill 28 Jun, 2014 2nd dog Fell off a bit on P3. Led top pitch and also fell off a bit!
with Ross McKerchar
Fell off a bit on P3. Led top pitch and also fell off a bit!
with Ross McKerchar
quiffhanger 28 Jun, 2014 Lead β Psyched to come back and lead this after seconding it years ago. P3 was super exciting, although I found P1 nearly as hard!
Psyched to come back and lead this after seconding it years ago. P3 was super exciting, although I found P1 nearly as hard!
alexjz 14 Jun, 2014 AltLd dog Fell off on P2 but seconded P3 clean! Super route awesome climbing!! Lead P4
with James Marjot, George Ullrich
Fell off on P2 but seconded P3 clean! Super route awesome climbing!! Lead P4
with James Marjot, George Ullrich
nathanlee 22 May, 2014 Lead O/S P2 + 4. Amazing. Both greasy and freezing!
with Tom Livingstone
P2 + 4. Amazing. Both greasy and freezing!
with Tom Livingstone
Tom Livingstone 22 May, 2014 AltLd O/S P1 and P3. Mega
P1 and P3. Mega
Pieterjan De Roo 20 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
tim newton 31 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Misha
with Misha
Misha 31 Aug, 2013 AltLd Awesome and pumpy are the two words that describe this beast of a route! P1 looked straightforward but turned out to be a pumpy E3 5c pitch, solid lead by Tim. I got P2 with the fairly short but hard crux. Looks quite intimidating as it's an overhang and you can't see exactly where to go afterwards. Profusion of chalk all over the place didn't help! Eventually manned up to get over the initial overhang, which wasn't too bad. Whacked a good cam in and spent ages hanging around trying to figure out what to do and attempting to move up. Got increasingly tired and had to have a rest on the rope. Tried a different sequence using an undercut and the next few moves went fine but it looked hard to get into the finishing groove and my right hand was pumping out so reverse to the cam for another rest on the rope. Got it next time - moved left as before but made a slight foot adjustment and it was fine. As ever, poor technique let me down in extremis! A tough E3 6a which probably isn't too bad if you read it right quickly. Tim raced up it and took over for the crux pitch. Couldn't see it from the belay but Tim moved fairly quickly so I figured it wouldn't be too bad. Wrong! Monstrously strenuous and pumpy from the moment you leave the spike. Keeps luring you on with the promise of better holds but it feels like they all point the wrong way and it's steep. Had to really fight it but managed to hang on ok. The traverse to the overhang wasn't too bad, followed by a poor rest on undercuts. Moving up the left hand side of the overhang is actually not too bad and then at last you get a decent rest! Easy after that. Would have been a tough E4 if I was fresh, which I definitely wasn't after fighting with the previous pitch! Impressed Tim did it so quickly. My problem is I hang around too much! I did the finishing pitch, which fortunately wasn't pumpy but had some nice 5b sequences (don't think it was really 5c). What better route for a first E5? Shame not to get it clean (logged as blank so it would cound for the extreme rock list). Felt pretty wiped out by the end. I guess it's E5 for the overall effort as I don't think any of the individual pitches are harder than E4. A great experience, first big route on Main Cliff, hungry for more! :-)
Awesome and pumpy are the two words that describe this beast of a route! P1 looked straightforward but turned out to be a pumpy E3 5c pitch, solid lead by Tim. I got P2 with the fairly short but hard crux. Looks quite intimidating as it's an overhang and you can't see exactly where to go afterwards. Profusion of chalk all over the place didn't help! Eventually manned up to get over the initial overhang, which wasn't too bad. Whacked a good cam in and spent ages hanging around trying to figure out what to do and attempting to move up. Got increasingly tired and had to have a rest on the rope. Tried a different sequence using an undercut and the next few moves went fine but it looked hard to get into the finishing groove and my right hand was pumping out so reverse to the cam for another rest on the rope. Got it next time - moved left as before but made a slight foot adjustment and it was fine. As ever, poor technique let me down in extremis! A tough E3 6a which probably isn't too bad if you read it right quickly. Tim raced up it and took over for the crux pitch. Couldn't see it from the belay but Tim moved fairly quickly so I figured it wouldn't be too bad. Wrong! Monstrously strenuous and pumpy from the moment you leave the spike. Keeps luring you on with the promise of better holds but it feels like they all point the wrong way and it's steep. Had to really fight it but managed to hang on ok. The traverse to the overhang wasn't too bad, followed by a poor rest on undercuts. Moving up the left hand side of the overhang is actually not too bad and then at last you get a decent rest! Easy after that. Would have been a tough E4 if I was fresh, which I definitely wasn't after fighting with the previous pitch! Impressed Tim did it so quickly. My problem is I hang around too much! I did the finishing pitch, which fortunately wasn't pumpy but had some nice 5b sequences (don't think it was really 5c). What better route for a first E5? Shame not to get it clean (logged as blank so it would cound for the extreme rock list). Felt pretty wiped out by the end. I guess it's E5 for the overall effort as I don't think any of the individual pitches are harder than E4. A great experience, first big route on Main Cliff, hungry for more! :-)
Hidden 5 May, 2013 Lead O/S
w.pettet-smith ?Oct, 2012 Lead pitch 3. ended up on this after being too keen to read the topo for rat race. did p2 of that and thought the 'obvious' line would be to continue up the fault. ended up being a 56m pitch! dangled on the last pumpy move round the rooflet on positron. not gonna beat myself up too much.
pitch 3. ended up on this after being too keen to read the topo for rat race. did p2 of that and thought the 'obvious' line would be to continue up the fault. ended up being a 56m pitch! dangled on the last pumpy move round the rooflet on positron. not gonna beat myself up too much.
Ed Booth 10 Aug, 2012 AltLd rpt Led 2+3. Felt alot fitter on p 3 this time after failing 3 yrs ago. really enjoyed this.
Led 2+3. Felt alot fitter on p 3 this time after failing 3 yrs ago. really enjoyed this.
Adam Booth 10 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S P1 and P4. Well done Ed, cruised the crux pitches.
P1 and P4. Well done Ed, cruised the crux pitches.
datoon 14 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
with K
with K
khawk 14 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
with datoon
with datoon
C coldwell-storry 10 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S 1st and 3rd ptch. Superb!
with Iron Mike
1st and 3rd ptch. Superb!
with Iron Mike
Bruce Houston ?Mar, 2012 2nd
Dan Arkle ??, 2012 Lead
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Rob Pitt 12 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Jon Ratcliffe
with Jon Ratcliffe
Russell Birkett 29 May, 2011 AltLd O/S Superb
with Murdoch J
Superb
with Murdoch J
thomasadixon 26 Mar, 2011 2nd O/S Main pitch only, pumpy line good effort by Mike!
with mwatson
Main pitch only, pumpy line good effort by Mike!
with mwatson
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
mwatson ??, 2011 -
Jack Geldard ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2011 Lead
with Helena Robinson
with Helena Robinson
debsb ??, 2011 Lead O/S
with Glenda Huxter
with Glenda Huxter
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 AltLd O/S Lead 1st pitch only
with Choo
Lead 1st pitch only
with Choo
Alex Mason 16 Oct, 2010 AltLd O/S Led P1 + P3. Absolutely brilliant, tricky undercutting on P2. Felt like i exerted more on P1 than P3. Brilliant pitch P3 and probably hard E4 5c for this pitch on its own.
with George Ullrich
Led P1 + P3. Absolutely brilliant, tricky undercutting on P2. Felt like i exerted more on P1 than P3. Brilliant pitch P3 and probably hard E4 5c for this pitch on its own.
with George Ullrich
soph 11 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Ross McKerchar, Dan McManus
with Ross McKerchar, Dan McManus
Hidden 8 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
centurion05 3 Jul, 2010 AltLd dog fell off twice on third pitch, awesome route
fell off twice on third pitch, awesome route
Hidden 3 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
quiffhanger ?Jul, 2010 2nd O/S
Brown 15 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S Led 2nd & 4th (Dinosaur's 3rd)
Led 2nd & 4th (Dinosaur's 3rd)
The old James turnbull ??, 2010 Lead
with dave brown
with dave brown
Luke Brooks 24 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S Led P2+3
Led P2+3
Hidden 16 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
nige 1 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
with ewan mccallum
with ewan mccallum
Ed Booth 1 Aug, 2009 AltLd dog Led first pitch. will led second, hard little funky bit. I 3rd pitch and fucked it up. just wasn;t feeling the love. bit of a shame as i would have liked to have done it first try but should have gone when a bit fitter. At least unlike Right Wall, i feel confident about being able to go back and do it.
with will sim
Led first pitch. will led second, hard little funky bit. I 3rd pitch and fucked it up. just wasn;t feeling the love. bit of a shame as i would have liked to have done it first try but should have gone when a bit fitter. At least unlike Right Wall, i feel confident about being able to go back and do it.
with will sim
mgeek 23 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
with alan cassidy
with alan cassidy
Cassidy 23 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
with McGeek
with McGeek
buzby78 23 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S Amazing Route
with Johnny Stocking
Amazing Route
with Johnny Stocking
lukehunt 4 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
with Nick Smith
nic42 4 Jun, 2009 2nd dog
with Luke
with Luke
Pete Graham ?Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
with malx
with malx
malx ?Apr, 2009 AltLd O/S
JulesV ??, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
Adam Ellwood 17 May, 2008 AltLd O/S Led 2 & 3rd pitches. Awesome.
Led 2 & 3rd pitches. Awesome.
Al Evans ??, 2008 -
Toby Dunn ??, 2008 AltLd
with JulesV
with JulesV
John Southworth 7 Jul, 2007 2nd Bottled lead of P1 as it was gopping. Happy to second
with Chris Snell
Bottled lead of P1 as it was gopping. Happy to second
with Chris Snell
andi turner 21 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S seconded pitch one of Ordinary Route then took lead up on Positron.
with grimer
seconded pitch one of Ordinary Route then took lead up on Positron.
with grimer
ali_robb ?Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Tom Briggs 20 Mar, 2005 Lead O/S 2nd lead of the year. Thank God for campussing.
with Tuffty Nick
2nd lead of the year. Thank God for campussing.
with Tuffty Nick
tuftynick ?Jan, 2005 2nd
Tom Briggs ?Jan, 2005 Lead
Tom Briggs ?Jan, 2005 Lead
Tom Briggs ?Jan, 2005 Lead
tuftynick ??, 2005 2nd
Hidden ??, 2005 Lead O/S
nicholas Barrowclough 8 Jul, 2004 Lead Very strenuous clibming on the headwall pitch. Climbed in borrowed shoes that were to small on a very hot day. Both of us were very dehydrated by the final pitch to get off the main cliff. Struggled on the HVS crack of cordon bleu! Quality route though with fantastic atmosphere. Well protected where needed. Technical crux is defintely the second pitch.
with Mark
Very strenuous clibming on the headwall pitch. Climbed in borrowed shoes that were to small on a very hot day. Both of us were very dehydrated by the final pitch to get off the main cliff. Struggled on the HVS crack of cordon bleu! Quality route though with fantastic atmosphere. Well protected where needed. Technical crux is defintely the second pitch.
with Mark
Hidden 26 Aug, 2002 Lead rpt
Hidden 10 Jun, 2001 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?Jun, 2000 AltLd O/S
with Graham Doig
with Graham Doig
Seymore Butt ??, 2000 AltLd
with Terry Holmes
with Terry Holmes
Steve Long ??, 2000 - Climbed this many times, one of my all time favourites. Just brilliant.
Climbed this many times, one of my all time favourites. Just brilliant.
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1999 Lead
duncan 8 Aug, 1997 2nd
with Hugo Glover
with Hugo Glover
ellis ?Jun, 1997 AltLd Led P2 with rest and tension
Led P2 with rest and tension
Si Witcher ??, 1997 AltLd O/S w Ellis. led 1st and 3rd. Ghastly move on the 2nd pitch, round into Alien on the 2nd.
w Ellis. led 1st and 3rd. Ghastly move on the 2nd pitch, round into Alien on the 2nd.
sadams 9 Jun, 1996 AltLd O/S
with John Boyle
with John Boyle
The Jazz Butcher ??, 1996 Lead O/S
with Irish Ron
with Irish Ron
bazza 7 Jul, 1995 Lead
duncan 21 May, 1995 AltLd rpt
with Dan Donovan
with Dan Donovan
Dave Musgrove Jnr 4 Apr, 1995 AltLd O/S Awesome, we were completely pumped!
with Nick Ashton
Awesome, we were completely pumped!
with Nick Ashton
keefe ??, 1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??, 1995 -
with keefe
with keefe
Roget 6 Aug, 1994 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
pete johnson 1 May, 1994 AltLd O/S Steve led p2 and 3.
with Steve Findlay
Steve led p2 and 3.
with Steve Findlay
mattnuttall 23 Jun, 1993 AltLd O/S words are not enough. Lead P1/2, P4. Al cruised the famous headwall... see picture in UKC
with Alan Holden
words are not enough. Lead P1/2, P4. Al cruised the famous headwall... see picture in UKC
with Alan Holden
Matt Clifton ??, 1993 Lead O/S
with Helen
with Helen
Hidden 15 Sep, 1992 AltLd O/S
Rich Kirby 16 Aug, 1992 AltLd O/S Pitch 3 is outstanding. More logical and better to do Ordinary Route Pitch 1 instead of the original first 2 pitches.
Pitch 3 is outstanding. More logical and better to do Ordinary Route Pitch 1 instead of the original first 2 pitches.
PaulTanton 16 Aug, 1992 AltLd O/S Led pitch 2 and 3, then we abbed off so not a full ascent. Pitch 2 is technically harder than 3, but pitch 3 pumps you more. I only just made it.
Led pitch 2 and 3, then we abbed off so not a full ascent. Pitch 2 is technically harder than 3, but pitch 3 pumps you more. I only just made it.
Mike Owen 15 May, 1992 AltLd rpt
with Niklas
with Niklas
jfletcher 6 Jul, 1991 AltLd O/S Led pitch 1 & 3
with David Gilkes
Led pitch 1 & 3
with David Gilkes
Steve Crowe 9 Jul, 1990 AltLd O/S I led pitch pitch one and then accidentally continued up pitch two as well.
I led pitch pitch one and then accidentally continued up pitch two as well.
Alan James - UKC and UKH 9 Jul, 1990 AltLd
Hidden 26 May, 1990 AltLd
DDDD ??, 1990 AltLd O/S Great position on top pitch
with Simon Lee
Great position on top pitch
with Simon Lee
donie ??, 1990 -
Eduardo Martinez ??, 1990 Lead O/S
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
Steve Walker ?Oct, 1989 Lead
with paul entwistle
with paul entwistle
UKB Shark 14 Jul, 1989 AltLd Followed main pitch
with DDDD
Followed main pitch
with DDDD
Neil McA 17 Sep, 1988 AltLd O/S Led pitch 2 and 3, fantastic positions, one of the best.
with Mad Martin Salisbury
Led pitch 2 and 3, fantastic positions, one of the best.
with Mad Martin Salisbury
Hidden 5 Jul, 1987 Lead
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
keefe 24 Aug, 1986 -
with Alan Wilson
with Alan Wilson
Ian Jones ?Aug, 1986 AltLd O/S I led pitch three.
with Dave Thomas
I led pitch three.
with Dave Thomas
duncan ?Sep, 1984 Lead O/S
with Dave who moved to New Zealand
with Dave who moved to New Zealand
Mike Owen 27 May, 1984 Lead O/S
with Les Jennings
with Les Jennings
Hidden ?May, 1983 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 1982 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1980 AltLd
Phil Davidson 2 Jun, 1979 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Mar, 1977 AltLd
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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 31
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 28
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set