62m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An amazing route, and probably the most coveted E5 on the Main Cliff. The third pitch is a totally 'out there' experience that will live with you for a long time. Start at ledges 18m past the Gogarth pinnacle, just right of an arete and where the higher platform drops in height.
1) 5c, 20m. Move up and right into a scoop, then traverse back left to a small ear-like flake. From here, head up and slightly left to a ramp, and follow it left to the arete. Arrange what gear you can and make a crux pull over a bulge to reach easier ground and a belay below the chimney groove of The Rat Race.
2) 6a, 15m. Move up into the chimney/groove as for The Rat Race and arrange some high runners. Move down and make a dramatic traverse left on sloping holds and pinches to the arete. Pull round on a nipple of rock, and somehow gain the groove. Follow this more easily to reach the shared belay below the horrid looking chimney on The Rat Race.
3) 6a, 30m. An amazing pitch. From the belay, move out left onto a spike in the rib. From here, you can see a diagonal crack soaring across an imposing headwall. Climb the crack, first below it, then making a hard transition to above it. Eventually you can traverse out left below an overlap and make a strenuous move over the left-hand end of it. Carry on up easier ground until you can step left into the groove of Dinosaur and bridge up this to a belay on a spacious ledge.
4) Finish up Dinosaur (previous page) or Cordon Bleau. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
According to Alex Sharpe this was 'an extremely strenuous and sustained route up very steep rock. The top pitch is phenomenally impressive and is one of the hardest routes at Gogarth'. In fact it is a little disjointed, pitch 2 being short and artificial. Pitch 3 is the highlight. Stevie Haston soloed this years ago.

Alan Rouse and Peter Minks. FFA Alex Sharpe. Mar/1971

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Top five E5s, Very good routes in the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, Main Cliff Big E5s, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E5 ticklist, James' Summer Ticklist, CUMC First Ascents.

Hidden 04/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
amccann 24/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Led 2+3, found passing the overlap on pitch 2 to be harder than the whole 3rd pitch, turns out I did it in a very strenuous way... 3rd pitch was awesome, took the time to enjoy it and couldn't see anyone else, just my ropes disappearing around the corner.

with Micki
MSchobitz 24/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Led p1&4. Solid leads by Alex on p2&3. Found p2 easier than him, where I think I stuck more to the guidebook line. P3 isn't ever nails, just a race against the pump! Nice tick as first ever route on main cliff!

Timothy Miller 04/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

I lead pitches 2 & 4, pitch 3 was awesome and pumpy. Ace

andyinglis 04/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Brilliant route, great rock and exposure! Led P1 and P3.

with Tim Miller
pete johnson 28/May/17 AltLd rpt

I led p1 and 4.

Billg 12/Aug/16 Lead O/S

What a route !! Led all 4 pitches. (P1 was soaking and felt the most intimidating of the lot!)

with Will Calvert
Flavio 03/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Tom Livingstone 02/Jul/16 AltLd rpt

Led odds

with Adam Russell
Hidden 02/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
MichaelGallimore 03/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Another stunning route. I led pitch 2.

Andrew Wilson 28/May/16 AltLd

I led P1 and 4. Bottom pitch was greasy. Veered off route towards Rat Race slightly on P2, so had to reverse the moves to the slippy pinch and then step left to a good hold on the arête. Weighted the rope at this point. Happy with how it went for first E5. P3 brilliant, just enough rests. Amazing stuff.

Mike_Hayes 22/May/16 AltLd O/S

P2 and P4 - Mega

with John Nightingale
Hidden ??/2016 -
ian bryant ??/2016 Lead O/S
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Duncan Campbell 11/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Just p3 as part of ordinary route. Absolutely brilliant! felt really intimidated at the start of the pitch, got really pumped and had to run it out from where the crack petered out to the roof. Just about made it. Find main cliff difficult if I'm honest. Keen to head back for the full thing.

with Michaela "the champ" Tracy
Ed Babs 15/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Lead P3 & 4. P3 was the lead of my life!

Tom Livingstone 10/Aug/15 AltLd rpt

Finished up Positron P3/P4 after Alien. An incredible combo. Led P4

Nickc ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S

every pitch

Hidden 19/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
samwillo 10/Jul/15 AltLd

A good climb, suffered from being massively overrated though - the horrible smeg probably didn't help. Good leads by Uisdean. What is the point of P2?

Uisdean hawthorn 10/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

A good route led 1&3. Pitch one a bit greasy, felt hard. Headwall pitch is good. But would only get 2 stars on the islands.

with Sam
NDD 20/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Headwall pitch as part of OR.

with tony stone
Hidden 18/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
will smith11 18/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

My first sea cliff experience. Awesome! Led pitches 2 and 4.

with James
Hidden 16/May/15 Lead O/S
mike lawrence? 21/Sep/14 -

led top 5c pitch, one of the great climbs

with FatRob
morganator 07/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Finally got round to doing it! Wicked fun- led both hard pitches

with Dan Arkle
Hidden 05/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Luxulyan 03/Jul/14 AltLd dog
with Tom Murrell
theotherpetehill 28/Jun/14 2nd dog

Fell off a bit on P3. Led top pitch and also fell off a bit!

with Ross McKerchar
quiffhanger 28/Jun/14 Lead β

Psyched to come back and lead this after seconding it years ago. P3 was super exciting, although I found P1 nearly as hard!

alexjz 14/Jun/14 AltLd dog

Fell off on P2 but seconded P3 clean! Super route awesome climbing!! Lead P4

with James Marjot, George Ullrich
nathanlee 22/May/14 Lead O/S

P2 + 4. Amazing. Both greasy and freezing!

with Tom Livingstone
Tom Livingstone 22/May/14 AltLd O/S

P1 and P3. Mega

Pieterjan De Roo 20/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
tim newton 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Misha 31/Aug/13 AltLd

Awesome and pumpy are the two words that describe this beast of a route! P1 looked straightforward but turned out to be a pumpy E3 5c pitch, solid lead by Tim. I got P2 with the fairly short but hard crux. Looks quite intimidating as it's an overhang and you can't see exactly where to go afterwards. Profusion of chalk all over the place didn't help! Eventually manned up to get over the initial overhang, which wasn't too bad. Whacked a good cam in and spent ages hanging around trying to figure out what to do and attempting to move up. Got increasingly tired and had to have a rest on the rope. Tried a different sequence using an undercut and the next few moves went fine but it looked hard to get into the finishing groove and my right hand was pumping out so reverse to the cam for another rest on the rope. Got it next time - moved left as before but made a slight foot adjustment and it was fine. As ever, poor technique let me down in extremis! A tough E3 6a which probably isn't too bad if you read it right quickly. Tim raced up it and took over for the crux pitch. Couldn't see it from the belay but Tim moved fairly quickly so I figured it wouldn't be too bad. Wrong! Monstrously strenuous and pumpy from the moment you leave the spike. Keeps luring you on with the promise of better holds but it feels like they all point the wrong way and it's steep. Had to really fight it but managed to hang on ok. The traverse to the overhang wasn't too bad, followed by a poor rest on undercuts. Moving up the left hand side of the overhang is actually not too bad and then at last you get a decent rest! Easy after that. Would have been a tough E4 if I was fresh, which I definitely wasn't after fighting with the previous pitch! Impressed Tim did it so quickly. My problem is I hang around too much! I did the finishing pitch, which fortunately wasn't pumpy but had some nice 5b sequences (don't think it was really 5c). What better route for a first E5? Shame not to get it clean (logged as blank so it would cound for the extreme rock list). Felt pretty wiped out by the end. I guess it's E5 for the overall effort as I don't think any of the individual pitches are harder than E4. A great experience, first big route on Main Cliff, hungry for more! :-)

Hidden 05/May/13 Lead O/S
w.pettet-smith ?/Oct/12 Lead

pitch 3. ended up on this after being too keen to read the topo for rat race. did p2 of that and thought the 'obvious' line would be to continue up the fault. ended up being a 56m pitch! dangled on the last pumpy move round the rooflet on positron. not gonna beat myself up too much.

Ed Booth 10/Aug/12 AltLd rpt

Led 2+3. Felt alot fitter on p 3 this time after failing 3 yrs ago. really enjoyed this.

Adam Booth 10/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

P1 and P4. Well done Ed, cruised the crux pitches.

datoon 14/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with K
khawk 14/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with DT
C coldwell-storry 10/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

1st and 3rd ptch. Superb!

with Iron Mike
Bruce Houston ?/Mar/12 2nd
Dan Arkle ??/2012 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 -
Rob Pitt 12/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Jon Ratcliffe
Russell Birkett 29/May/11 AltLd O/S


with Murdoch J
thomasadixon 26/Mar/11 2nd O/S

Main pitch only, pumpy line good effort by Mike!

with Mike
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2011 Lead
with Helena Robinson
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Rory Shaw ??/2011 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st pitch only

with Choo
Alex Mason 16/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1 + P3. Absolutely brilliant, tricky undercutting on P2. Felt like i exerted more on P1 than P3. Brilliant pitch P3 and probably hard E4 5c for this pitch on its own.

with George Ullrich
soph 11/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with Ross McKerchar, Dan McManus
Hidden 08/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
centurion05 03/Jul/10 AltLd dog

fell off twice on third pitch, awesome route

with patch
Hidden 03/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
quiffhanger ?/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Brown 15/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd & 4th (Dinosaur's 3rd)

with James T
The old James turnbull ??/2010 Lead
with dave brown
Luke Brooks 24/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Led P2+3

Hidden 16/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
nige 01/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with ewan mccallum
Ed Booth 01/Aug/09 AltLd dog

Led first pitch. will led second, hard little funky bit. I 3rd pitch and fucked it up. just wasn;t feeling the love. bit of a shame as i would have liked to have done it first try but should have gone when a bit fitter. At least unlike Right Wall, i feel confident about being able to go back and do it.

with will sim
mgeek 23/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with alan cassidy
Cassidy 23/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with McGeek
buzby78 23/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Amazing Route

with Johnny Stocking
lukehunt 04/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
nic42 04/Jun/09 2nd dog
with Luke
Pete Graham ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
malx ?/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
JulesV ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Adam Ellwood 17/May/08 AltLd O/S

Led 2 & 3rd pitches. Awesome.

with Porky
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Toby Dunn ??/2008 AltLd
with JulesV
John Southworth 07/Jul/07 2nd

Bottled lead of P1 as it was gopping. Happy to second

with Chris Snell
andi turner 21/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

seconded pitch one of Ordinary Route then took lead up on Positron.

with grimer
ali_robb ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 20/Mar/05 Lead O/S

2nd lead of the year. Thank God for campussing.

with Tuffty Nick
tuftynick ?/Jan/05 2nd
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ?/Jan/05 Lead
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ?/Jan/05 Lead
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ?/Jan/05 Lead
tuftynick ??/2005 2nd
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
nicholas Barrowclough 08/Jul/04 Lead

Very strenuous clibming on the headwall pitch. Climbed in borrowed shoes that were to small on a very hot day. Both of us were very dehydrated by the final pitch to get off the main cliff. Struggled on the HVS crack of cordon bleu! Quality route though with fantastic atmosphere. Well protected where needed. Technical crux is defintely the second pitch.

with Mark
Hidden 26/Aug/02 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/Jun/01 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/Jun/00 AltLd O/S
with Graham Doig
Seymore Butt ??/2000 AltLd
with Terry Holmes
Steve Long ??/2000 -

Climbed this many times, one of my all time favourites. Just brilliant.

Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
duncan 08/Aug/97 2nd
with Hugo Glover
ellis ?/Jun/97 AltLd

Led P2 with rest and tension

switch ??/1997 AltLd O/S

w Ellis. led 1st and 3rd. Ghastly move on the 2nd pitch, round into Alien on the 2nd.

sadams 09/Jun/96 AltLd O/S
with John Boyle
Hidden ??/1996 Lead O/S
bazza 07/Jul/95 Lead
duncan 21/May/95 AltLd rpt
with Dan Donovan
Dave Musgrove Jnr 04/Apr/95 AltLd O/S

Awesome, we were completely pumped!

with Nick Ashton
keefe ??/1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
Roget 06/Aug/94 Lead O/S
with jon
pete johnson 01/May/94 AltLd O/S

Steve led p2 and 3.

with Steve Findlay
mattnuttall 23/Jun/93 AltLd O/S

words are not enough. Lead P1/2, P4. Al cruised the famous headwall... see picture in UKC

with Alan Holden
Hidden 15/Sep/92 AltLd O/S
Rich Kirby 16/Aug/92 AltLd O/S

Pitch 3 is outstanding. More logical and better to do Ordinary Route Pitch 1 instead of the original first 2 pitches.

PaulTanton 16/Aug/92 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2 and 3, then we abbed off so not a full ascent. Pitch 2 is technically harder than 3, but pitch 3 pumps you more. I only just made it.

Mike Owen 15/May/92 AltLd rpt
with Niklas
jfletcher 06/Jul/91 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1 & 3

with David Gilkes
Steve Crowe 09/Jul/90 AltLd O/S

I led pitch pitch one and then accidentally continued up pitch two as well.

with AJ
Alan James - UKC and UKH 09/Jul/90 AltLd
Hidden 26/May/90 AltLd
DDDD ??/1990 AltLd O/S

Great position on top pitch

with Simon Lee
Eduardo Martinez ??/1990 Lead O/S
Steve Walker ?/Oct/89 Lead
with paul entwistle
ukb & bmc shark 14/Jul/89 AltLd

Followed main pitch

Hidden 05/Jul/87 Lead
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
keefe 24/Aug/86 -
with Alan Wilson
Ian Jones ?/Aug/86 AltLd O/S

I led pitch three.

with Dave Thomas
duncan ?/Sep/84 Lead O/S
with Dave who moved to New Zealand
Mike Owen 27/May/84 Lead O/S
with Les Jennings
Hidden ?/May/83 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/82 AltLd
Hidden 05/Mar/77 AltLd
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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
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High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
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High 5c
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Votes cast 26
Style of ascent
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