UKC

Rockfax Description
The first E7 in the UK goes up the wall right of The Cad after starting up that route. It is very bold and serious. Follow The Cad up the initial shallow groove to surmount the small overlap and gain a reasonable spike runner in the wall above. Traverse horizontally right on the lip of the overlap to a good resting position near the right arete of the wall. Above are two peg runners in a vertical crack - this is what you are aiming for. Climb the wall with difficulty. The pegs are easier to clip if there is a sling on them - without this you have to climb past the crux. Continue up the slightly easier wall above until a traverse rightwards leads to a no-hands rest on a ledge on the arete. The crack/groove in the arete leads in a very serious position to a sloping ledge and then the top, with much relief. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , 100 Worthwhile E7's , ... And One For The Crow

Feedback

User Date Notes
Pegbolter 9 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: A small pecker just below the thin blade peg may provide additional reassurance.
Show beta
βeta: A small pecker just below the thin blade peg may provide additional reassurance.
tintinandpip 19 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: A 30 year ambition realised. Top roped it first. Very committing to get to the peg, falling off onto the peg isn’t really an option either. Sensational.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A 30 year ambition realised. Top roped it first. Very committing to get to the peg, falling off onto the peg isn’t really an option either. Sensational.
Dave Rudkin 18 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The original peg is now gone, a poor back-up peg (thin blade) was place 15 years ago slightly above the decaying original, this is still hanging in there (poor).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The original peg is now gone, a poor back-up peg (thin blade) was place 15 years ago slightly above the decaying original, this is still hanging in there (poor).

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff

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Voting
High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
Votes cast 6
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Soloed
Followed
Not Set
DNF
Redpoint
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bats In The Belfry

Grade: E7 6b ***
(Gogarth South Stack)

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