A serious route, that is popular nonetheless. It had bolt runners in the past which were removed, but a single stub still exists and most people still use a small wire hooked over it. Start beneath a vague cracked groove that leads onto the upper wall, about 14m left of the corner of Blue Peter. Ascend the cracked groove and then trend right to spike runners at 8m. Then move delicately up and right to an undercut flake (cams and occasionally a fixed thread). Difficult moves rightwards across the flake lead to a good foothold by one of the old bolt stubs. Steady your nerves and make committing moves up towards a break-line - don't lunge for it, as it slopes alarmingly. Eventually you reach a ledge where the climbing eases and the top can be reached more or less direct. © Rockfax
Ron Fawcett, 1978.
Extreme Rock, North Wales Super Route E6's, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Lifetime List, Stanners lifetime Onsight attempt list, Four years of university hit list
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