Rockfax Description
A serious route, that is popular nonetheless. It had bolt runners in the past which were removed, but a single stub still exists and most people still use a small wire hooked over it. Start beneath a vague cracked groove that leads onto the upper wall, about 14m left of the corner of Blue Peter. Ascend the cracked groove and then trend right to spike runners at 8m. Then move delicately up and right to an undercut flake (cams and occasionally a fixed thread). Difficult moves rightwards across the flake lead to a good foothold by one of the old bolt stubs. Steady your nerves and make committing moves up towards a break-line - don't lunge for it, as it slopes alarmingly. Eventually you reach a ledge where the climbing eases and the top can be reached more or less direct. © Rockfax

Ron Fawcett, 1978.


Extreme Rock , North Wales Super Route E6's , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , North Wales Rock Graded List , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff , James' 2015 Summer. , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Stanners lifetime Onsight attempt list , Four years of university hit list , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime


User Date Notes
Dave Rudkin 11 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Tat on the thread replaced.
Show beta
βeta: Tat on the thread replaced.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff

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High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 17
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tontons Macoute

Grade: E6 6a ***
(Penlas Rock)

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