2 pitches. Nice route. P1 is run out from the start until you manage to get across from shag rock. Good gear is found next to the crux, in situ wire, then sustained bridging to a hanging spike belay. P2 is short but steep with bomber kit

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.


ClimberDateStyle
Pete_Frost 04/Jun AltLd O/S

WARNING: There are two big loose spikes 5m above the belay at the top of P1 which will kill your belayer if they get pulled down. Sadly, it is safest to abseil off using the fixed tat at the belay. The in-situ wire by the crux has lost its wire. Led P1 - really varied climbing and the chimney is actually pleasant. The pitch is by no means over once you get through the crux. However, the transition from chimney to groove is easy to protect with a medium/large cam in a thank-god slot at the top of the chimney. Top Tip: warm up on Bloody Chimney and the chimney on Fifth Avenue will feel like a breeze,

with Phil Creed
Misha 04/Jun AltLd O/S

P1 features pokey but not particularly hard back and footing / bridging up the chimney followed by a precarious step across onto the main buttress, then an awkward technical crux. Gear is rather spaced before you get on the buttress. I belayed on the big spike below the crack on P2 of Tequila Sunrise. Andy did the 'harder than it looks' P2, which had some tricky moves past a hanging death flake. Sandbag!

with Andy W
Hidden 04/Jun AltLd O/S
Alex Mason 18/May Lead O/S

Sweet Chimney. The allure of the finger crack at the top was too much, finished right up this.

Gympaul 22/Apr Lead
with Dale
FlavioL1989 12/Mar AltLd O/S
JenShelley 12/Mar AltLd O/S
neilh ??/2017 -
Hidden 19/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
khalidq 19/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
with Ian Lau
uphillnow 13/Aug/16 2nd

felt very top end at E1. One bit of good gear on initial chimney section would make it seem more E1

with Ian Ashman
KeenClimber 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Lead P1 then ab off

with Jim
jimxxx 07/Aug/16 2nd
Hidden 26/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Pete Wimbush 20/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Chris Hindley
jonleighton 19/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Pretty hard and bold for E1. Very cool though. Abbed after P1.

with Adam Brown
Hidden 12/Jul/16 2nd rpt
Felix la shat 11/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
shed_hed 03/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Bold and tricky start, probably should have gone further into the chimney. Good gear after the chimney but tricky moves. Felt pretty good value for E1. P2 was 2m of climbing, 48m of scrambling up grass...just ab off.

with Streaky
Hidden 17/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
jimxxx 05/Jun/16 Lead G/U
Hidden 22/May/16 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 22/May/16 AltLd
with John Nightingale
Hidden 22/May/16 AltLd dog
wi11 19/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
with Rich G
Hidden 25/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Hidden 04/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
David Kay 13/Aug/15 2nd

Pitch 1 only then we abseiled off.

with Richard Waltham
lanky 11/Aug/15 AltLd
with Sharpey
Palindrome 07/Jun/15 2nd

First 10m of back and footing up a chimney, daunting but not hard. Pulled on 2 bits of gear to aid.

Hidden 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 AltLd
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
JamesLloyd 15/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
will9911 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Alison
dan gibson 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with julie carroll
Julie Carroll 09/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Dan Gibson
JulesV ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Shauna
w.pettet-smith 29/Jun/14 Lead

Went off piste after normal crux- found the allure of that layback crack too much..at the top of it looked around onto the slab and thought oh dear. Character building stuff!

with claire jane carter
tim newton 05/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Rachel Slater 05/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P2. Cool route.

Jay.Carr 17/Apr/14 2nd
samwillo 17/Apr/14 AltLd

The worst route I have ever done. Comically bad.

The Grist 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Tom Doldon
Al Evans ??/2014 -
with Jim Moran
Seymore Butt ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
JBO 07/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Glyn 19/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Awesome!P1 is great fun, bit of chimney then some funky balancy bridging. Great position. P2 has got some loose holds but not too bad for Gogarth!

with Tom Weston
Hidden ?/Aug/12 AltLd
Ollie B 15/Jul/12 AltLd

Desperate. Had to rest on the crux of P1 as legs were fucked. Led p1 and p2 belayed a bit low on p2 so kath took us to the proper belay.

with K.Bromfield
Duncan Campbell 29/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Led Pitch 2. Think Tom belayed a bit early so I climbed top quarter of p1 and p2. Really cool but take care on p2, there are some loose flakes! Cool chimney on p1!

with Tom Grant
Hidden 20/May/12 Lead O/S
AC1 14/May/12 AltLd
with gforce
gforce 14/May/12 AltLd
with Adrian
Martin Haworth 12/May/12 AltLd O/S

Good route, lead pitch1. A bit bold to start with, then a well protected hard move. Keeps coming on pitch 2 as well.

with Andy
Andrew Sloan 12/May/12 AltLd O/S

Martin led 1st pitch and belayed just above crux 'step'. I finished remainder of route.

Hidden 25/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
NeilGriffiths 25/Mar/12 AltLd
with Adrian Pedley, Adam
A Crook 25/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

plenty of gear on second pitch, although the first has not much it is really only hard in one place.

with Adrian Pedley, Neil Griffiths
centurion05 ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 30/Oct/11 Lead O/S
mikeyjbs 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Charles Green
Owain Llewelyn 05/Sep/11 AltLd
with Andy
centurion05 05/Sep/11 AltLd
with Owain
Hidden 11/May/11 AltLd
Ewan Russell 11/May/11 AltLd O/S

Conor didnt fancy the crux so lowered off. I then pulled ropes through and wobbled my way up the bugger!

with Connor
Hidden 20/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
Steve Long 20/Feb/11 AltLd
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
al99 04/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2 , a little loose and pretty scary!

with Andrew Bitmead
AlexD 17/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch, crux given 5c in guide but felt soft. Smooth upper groove far more disconcerting!

Greenman28 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S

E2 maybe???

schof 10/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
david morse 10/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

too hard for E1. Techy. A three star first pitch

with andy psyche
stargazer85 ?/Aug/10 2nd
with Matt Keyse
datoon 02/May/10 AltLd O/S
with K
khawk 02/May/10 Lead O/S
with DT
Hidden 23/Apr/10 Lead O/S
porridgefan 13/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with Chris Mclean
C Mclean 13/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with Phil Wilkinson
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
alasdair19 ??/2010 -
Rob Pitt 01/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
ksjs 01/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

i led P2. a strong antidote to 2 weeks sport in Provence: my hands were cold as i set off up the chimney (kept trying to climb the face instead of bridging / back and footing - not my most stylish piece of climbing). when you get into the groove proper this isnt easy: no holds, dubious feet, generally awkward and all very trad. great climbing though. top pitch continues the theme with some loose/hollow flakes and short-lived but still tricky contortions.

with rob
metal arms 08/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

1st Pitch. Finished up Tequila Sunrise crack

mulletcocktail2000 27/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

good. chinmey was fun. top pitch very thruxy.

with john
jored 27/Jul/09 -
with Ryan
gregoritos ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with robin
Bristoldave 24/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Rich Kirby 26/Apr/09 AltLd
with Kev
Hidden 11/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2008 -

Cheeky little number!

with James Marjot
Hidden ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 10/May/07 2nd O/S
with Tania Noakes
Hidden ??/2004 -
lost.arrow 14/Sep/03 -
Hidden 25/May/91 2nd
pete johnson ??/1990 -
Martin Bennett 30/Jul/88 -
with Phil Morris
Roy Stuart ??/1988 Lead O/S
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Martin Bennett 14/Aug/82 -
with JD
Hammy 15/Jun/80 AltLd
with John Girdley
Hidden 06/Apr/80 Lead
Campbell42 ??/1980 AltLd O/S
with Eric Marsden
Ian Jones ??/1979 Lead O/S
with Mike Wright
tmawer 29/Oct/78 Lead O/S
with Matt Boyer
Hidden 29/Mar/78 Lead
granitbahn ??/1978 AltLd
Steve Lewis 29/Jul/76 2nd
with sharpie
jon 08/May/76 Lead
with martin j
Paul Clarke ??/1976 AltLd
with Andy Dunhill, FMC
Dave Musgrove 19/Oct/75 AltLd
mikej 11/Jul/75 AltLd

Stayed clear of this route for a few years after hearing of jw's mishap.

with Bill Church
jcw ?/Mar/67 AltLd

Lost the end of my little finger when my feet shot off on the top pitch trying to avoid the loose stuff

with Ron James
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 31
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 31
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Ground Up
Repeated
Not Set