UKC

65m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
This is a combination of the first pitch of Fifth Avenue and immaculate upper crack of a route called Tequila Sunrise.
1) 5c, 30m. As for Fifth Avenue to the first spike on the left halfway along the upper ramp.
2) 5c, 20m. The splitter crack in the right wall is almost too enticing not to climb. Gain the crack and do battle with sustained jamming moves to reach some good spikes on the arete. Now follow thin cracks just in from the edge of the buttress to belay by cracks just before the crag turns into a steep hillside.
3) 15m. Scramble out up the hillside. Remain roped up and treat it as a pitch until above the boulders. © Rockfax

FA. A,Eans, J.Moran, D. Knighton 27.5.78 27/May/1978.

Feedback

User Date Notes
mattdarli92 24 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Added new tat at the end of the good climbing
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Added new tat at the end of the good climbing
Larry Benoy 12 Aug, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: There is some in-situ tat (a prussik cord and screwgate) on a spike at the top of the crack. Appears to have been used to bail off the route previously but I'd advise avoiding the temptation to lower off of it - the whole spike now moves and appears to be held in place by chewing gum and hope
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is some in-situ tat (a prussik cord and screwgate) on a spike at the top of the crack. Appears to have been used to bail off the route previously but I'd advise avoiding the temptation to lower off of it - the whole spike now moves and appears to be held in place by chewing gum and hope

Logged Ascents

10 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 10 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 3
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Quartz Icicle

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

Loading Notifications...