55m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A totally traditional experience, and the line on the topo indicates the position of the cleft rather than the position you'll be in deep inside this chimney. Start at the base of the bile-inducing cleft.
1) 4c, 22m. A pitch whose grade is very much affected by your ability to thrutch, and the number of pies you have eaten recently. Move up to the large block and follow the wide crack until it is possible, if not all that appealing, to enter and squirm your way upwards - holds eventually appear. Belay above the narrow section.
2) 4b, 18m. Work your way into the back of the widening chimney. Back-and-foot upwards past a flake-crack, moving rightwards under the chockstone to emerge mole-like from your caving experience.
3) 4c, 15m. Climb the crack behind the belay, before easier ground leads to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist.

Toby Dunn 30/Aug Lead O/S

Ungradeable but brilliant, the antithesis of face climbing. Type 2 fun.

with Jon Winter
wi11 19/Aug 2nd O/S
with Hamish, Louisa Reynolds
Ewan Russell 20/Jul AltLd O/S


James Worthington 20/Jul AltLd

Climbed top two pitches in one. Lots of thrutching, felt like I was trying hard!

with Ewan
Pete_Frost 04/Jun AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P2 because it would have been cruel to ask someone as tall as Phil to thrutch up chimneys! This is a perfect warm-up for Fifth Avenue, because after this the chimney pitch on that route feels like a walk in the park!

with Phil Creed
Hidden 04/Jun AltLd O/S
BC 23/May AltLd O/S

P1 & P3, marvilous and different.

JackM92 23/May AltLd O/S

Brilliant! Really good route.

John Bunney 29/Apr AltLd
with llion, Katie Haston
Hidden 03/Jul/16 Lead
Pimwuh 28/May/16 2nd

Backed off p3

with Derek, Glynn
Derek Ryden 28/May/16 AltLd O/S

Really, really good

with Irish Paul, Glynne Andrew
The Grist 22/May/16 2nd
with Tom Doldon
Tom Doldon 21/May/16 Lead O/S

I really enjoyed this. Was run out but not hard.

saintlade ??/2016 -
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Col Kingshott 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Quality route. Definitely better than 1 star.

Hidden 14/May/15 AltLd
UncleMephisto 21/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Keiran O'Mahony 02/Nov/14 AltLd O/S
with Kit
Hidden 09/Aug/14 AltLd
Hidden 18/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Lenny 14/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Phil .N
tmawer 17/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1. Fun route.

with Bram
BTphonehome 17/May/14 AltLd O/S

P2&3. From the sublime to the ridiculous. Finished Atlantis/etc and headed over to this "bloody chimney". Fully deserving of 3* just for how much me and my partner laughed at each other. NWR route description sums it up nicely - at least you know what you're letting yourself in for!

with Tony
Alex Mason 01/Mar/14 Solo O/S

Underestimated the entry to the chimney. Otherwise a great solo.

Al Evans ??/2014 -
with Jim Moran
Seymore Butt ??/2014 -
Adam Booth 29/May/13 2nd O/S

Hardest route I did today

with Calum Musket
dswansonlow 10/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
CragDog 30/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 30/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/12 AltLd
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 AltLd
Duncan Campbell 17/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Got to Gogarth in really high winds, and waves absolutely smashing into the bottom of Main Cliff. Led p1 and p3. Pitch 1 has some squirmy manoeuvres. Got totally pissed on, on p3 which got quite scary actually! Soft for HVS but probably not VS? Brilliant route...

with Matt "Beast", Pete, Bubbles
cherad 21/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with colin crockart
Hidden 04/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Sgt. Vest 11/Mar/11 2nd O/S
david morse 21/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

A fine addition to the Upper Tier HVS's. Low in the grade if you like squirming

with ripley
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
thecurlyone 18/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Alex
Hidden ??/2010 -
sgl 09/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with helena
Hidden ?/Aug/09 AltLd
Hidden 20/Jun/09 2nd
nigel pearson 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S

appropriately named. A real stuggle. I clearly need practice at squeeze chimneys.

with derick
Hidden 31/Jan/09 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2009 -
with Holly Mumford
Hidden 20/Sep/08 Lead
centurion05 24/Jul/08 -
tigertiger ??/2008 -
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Gibson27 ??/2008 AltLd O/S

Fun 1st pitch!

Hidden 11/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
cem 13/May/07 AltLd O/S

Led p2

with Patrick Hutchison
Chesh 26/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with ScotsPaul
Hidden ??/2004 -
a_radiohead_fan ??/2004 -
greedo ?/May/03 2nd
with Chris Drinkwater
Hidden 15/Dec/91 AltLd
Martin Bennett 28/May/83 -
with RA
babymoac ??/1981 -
with MTW & Paul R
Hidden 20/Oct/79 AltLd
mikej 24/Mar/78 Lead
with Mike Mason
granitbahn ??/1978 AltLd
Ian Jones ??/1978 Lead O/S
with Chris Newton
Rob Davies 01/Nov/77 AltLd
with Pete Thexton
jon 10/Mar/77 AltLd
with big jim
Paul Clarke ??/1976 AltLd
with Andy Dunhill, FMC
Mark Kemball 06/Dec/75 Lead
with Naiomi Beckett
Bolt Phobia 08/Feb/75 AltLd
with Kit Spencer
mikej 08/Nov/69 AltLd
with Pete Kokolaar
Dave Musgrove 11/Feb/68 Lead
with Dennis Gray
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 27
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 25
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set