Rockfax Description
Start directly below a line of pockets in the middle of the wall. The route has been climbed without a crucial peg although this has now been replaced.
1) 6b, 38m. Climb up to a large pocket (large nut). Technical moves lead slightly leftwards then rightwards to regain the line of pockets and soon some gear. Follow pockets and a vague crack-line to a small overlap and continue in the same line to an old peg. Step right then go easily up to belay on the flake.
2) 4c, 15m. Finish up Bloody Chimney P3. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Brilliant climbing up the centre of the wall. The crucial peg was replaced in 2019. After the crux the route blasts direct up the rest of the wall to two decaying pegs where a move right brings good holds and the top. Benefits from a good brushing first.
Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff , Four years of university hit list , Post Quarantine Blowout , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime
User | Date | Notes | ||
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tintinandpip | 30 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Originally did it on sight in the early 90’s with Cooksey, the peg was tied off with troll rainbow tat, happy to flash it again today. Superb | βeta? | |
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βeta: Originally did it on sight in the early 90’s with Cooksey, the peg was tied off with troll rainbow tat, happy to flash it again today. Superb |
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Alex Mason | 10 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Lower-off in place, probs 2018/19. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lower-off in place, probs 2018/19. |
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Alex Mason | 10 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lower-off in place, probs 2018/19. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Lower-off in place, probs 2018/19. |
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Grade: E6 6b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)