UKC

37m.

Rockfax Description
Start directly below a line of pockets in the middle of the wall. The route has been climbed without a crucial peg although this has now been replaced.
1) 6b, 38m. Climb up to a large pocket (large nut). Technical moves lead slightly leftwards then rightwards to regain the line of pockets and soon some gear. Follow pockets and a vague crack-line to a small overlap and continue in the same line to an old peg. Step right then go easily up to belay on the flake.
2) 4c, 15m. Finish up Bloody Chimney P3. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Brilliant climbing up the centre of the wall. The crucial peg was replaced in 2019. After the crux the route blasts direct up the rest of the wall to two decaying pegs where a move right brings good holds and the top. Benefits from a good brushing first.

Ticklists

Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff, Four years of university hit list, Post Quarantine Blowout

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alex Mason 10 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Lower-off in place, probs 2018/19.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lower-off in place, probs 2018/19.
Alex Mason 10 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Lower-off in place, probs 2018/19.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lower-off in place, probs 2018/19.
Dave Rudkin 21 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The peg has been replaced it seems. Now not E7.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The peg has been replaced it seems. Now not E7.

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High E7
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High 6c
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High 6b
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High 6a
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Votes cast 8
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Final Front-Ear

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Gogarth South Stack)
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