37m.

Rockfax Description
Start directly below a line of pockets in the middle of the wall. The route originally had a prominent protruding peg, but it has now been climbed without this and is consequently now bolder.
1) 6b, 38m. Climb up to a large pocket (large nut). Technical moves lead slightly leftwards then rightwards to regain the line of pockets and soon some gear. Follow pockets and a vague crack-line to a small overlap and continue in the same line to an old peg. Step right then go easily up to belay on the flake.
2) 4c, 15m. Finish up Bloody Chimney P3. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Brilliant climbing up the centre of the wall. The demise of the peg has made the crux more serious but a ground fall can probably still be avoided with sharp belaying. After the crux the route blasts direct up the rest of the wall to two decaying pegs where a move right brings good holds and the top. Benefits from a good brushing first.

Ticklists

Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
phardman ??, 2017 2nd dog
with Matt Birch
with Matt Birch
Al Evans ??, 2016 - first ascent
with Jim Moran
first ascent
with Jim Moran
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Twid Turner ??, 2016 -
Al Evans ??, 2014 -
with Jim Moran
with Jim Moran
Dave Musgrove Jnr 15 Aug, 2009 Lead β Ab inspected lower section. Succeeded on 3rd attempt after taking 2 falls from the crux. Brilliant route, felt E6 in this style but reckon would definitely be E7 for onsight.
with Chris Barnes
Ab inspected lower section. Succeeded on 3rd attempt after taking 2 falls from the crux. Brilliant route, felt E6 in this style but reckon would definitely be E7 for onsight.
with Chris Barnes
tigertiger ??, 2008 -
Al Evans ??, 2008 -
buzby78 20 Sep, 1997 AltLd
with Parnaby
with Parnaby
UKB Shark 23 Jun, 1996 Lead dnf
with Dave Marsh
with Dave Marsh
Hidden 14 Aug, 1994 Lead O/S
jfletcher 2 Jul, 1994 Lead O/S
with Nick Wharton
with Nick Wharton
Tom Briggs ??, 1993 Lead RP Climbed in borrowed Boreal Lazers - size 6 1/2.
with Timmy Bonner
Climbed in borrowed Boreal Lazers - size 6 1/2.
with Timmy Bonner
mik1miller ??, 1990 Lead O/S
with owen jones
with owen jones
Mike Owen 1 Jun, 1989 Lead O/S With the peg in situ, though I remember it stuck out a long way, so I tied it off.
with Elaine Owen
With the peg in situ, though I remember it stuck out a long way, so I tied it off.
with Elaine Owen
keefe ??, 1989 -
mark mcgowan01 ??, 1987 -
Hidden ??, 1985 AltLd
dominic lee ?Aug, 1982 Lead O/S
with daniel lee
with daniel lee
Ian Jones ?Jul, 1982 2nd β 1 fall at crux. 7th free ascent ? Dave Musgrove thinks this is E7. wow!
with Chris Gore
1 fall at crux. 7th free ascent ? Dave Musgrove thinks this is E7. wow!
with Chris Gore
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Voting
High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
Votes cast 5
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 4
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Not Set