Rockfax Description
A totally traditional experience climbing deep inside the chimney. Start at the base of the bile-inducing cleft.
1) 4c, 22m. The grade depends on your ability to thrutch (and the number of pies you have eaten recently). Move up to the large block and follow the wide crack until it is possible, if not all that appealing, to enter and squirm your way upwards - holds eventually appear. Belay above the narrow section.
2) 4b, 18m. Work your way into the back of the chimney. Back-and-foot upwards past a flake-crack, moving right under the chockstone to emerge mole-like from your caving experience.
3) 4c, 15m. Climb the crack behind the belay, before easier ground leads to the top. © Rockfax
North Wales Rock Graded List , Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Hilariously ‘Adventurous’ Routes , Consolidation VS-HVS
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)