UKC

55m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A totally traditional experience, and the line on the topo indicates the position of the cleft rather than the position you'll be in deep inside this chimney. Start at the base of the bile-inducing cleft.
1) 4c, 22m. A pitch whose grade is very much affected by your ability to thrutch, and the number of pies you have eaten recently. Move up to the large block and follow the wide crack until it is possible, if not all that appealing, to enter and squirm your way upwards - holds eventually appear. Belay above the narrow section.
2) 4b, 18m. Work your way into the back of the widening chimney. Back-and-foot upwards past a flake-crack, moving rightwards under the chockstone to emerge mole-like from your caving experience.
3) 4c, 15m. Climb the crack behind the belay, before easier ground leads to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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High E1
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High HVS
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Votes cast 32
High 5a
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High 4c
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High 4b
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Votes cast 29
Votes cast 31
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
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Route of Interest

King Bee Crack

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Holyhead Mountain)
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