UKC

55m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A totally traditional experience climbing deep inside the chimney. Start at the base of the bile-inducing cleft.
1) 4c, 22m. The grade depends on your ability to thrutch (and the number of pies you have eaten recently). Move up to the large block and follow the wide crack until it is possible, if not all that appealing, to enter and squirm your way upwards - holds eventually appear. Belay above the narrow section.
2) 4b, 18m. Work your way into the back of the chimney. Back-and-foot upwards past a flake-crack, moving right under the chockstone to emerge mole-like from your caving experience.
3) 4c, 15m. Climb the crack behind the belay, before easier ground leads to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Hilariously ‘Adventurous’ Routes , Consolidation VS-HVS

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High E1
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High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 37
High 5a
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Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
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High 4b
Mid 4b
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Votes cast 34
Votes cast 36
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Scavenger

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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