Rockfax Description
Good open climbing up the huge slab in the centre of the zawn. A serious route - gear is scarce and the top-out can be dangerous. Take plenty of long slings. Start to the left of Mousetrap, below a large groove.
1) 4b, 30m. Climb the left wall of the groove, trending left to a break on the arete. Move left to belay at the base of a prominent dusty groove, and find a belay with much difficulty.
2) 4b, 40m. Move up right onto the main green slab. Follow a wandering line up the slab, aiming towards a steepening on the top right edge. The rock here is hard to protect. Belay below a tower-like feature with a shelf that leads off leftwards.
3) 4c, 35m. Climb the short wall above into the long diagonal break (optional belay on poor threads near the start). Follow this break leftwards to its end - exposed. The transition from rock to dirt (with no change of angle) will be the most worrying section of the route for many. Keep going in the same line to the top. © Rockfax

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