A great wall climb with a loose and committing first pitch but a brilliant second pitch. Start as for Left-hand Red Wall.
1) 5c, 15m. Climb the groove as for LHRW until you can traverse right across a steep bulging wall above the overlap, to a rest in a niche. Climb a diagonal crack up right to a belay.
2) 6a, 40m. Move up to a peg in an overlap. Carry on for 3m to a scary traverse right to a shallow groove. Follow this until it peters out. Make a move left to a good spike with relief. (Heart of Gold Direct, E6 - Direct from the peg to the spike). A rightwards-diagonal crack leads to a niche. A steep move to exit this joins the final pumpy crack of Left-hand Red Wall. © Rockfax
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