Rockfax Description
A great wall climb with a loose and committing first pitch but worth it for the brilliant second pitch. Start in the gully as for Left-hand Red Wall.
1) 5c, 15m. Climb the groove as for LHRW for a few metres, until it is possible to traverse out right across a steep bulging wall above the overlap. This leads to a rest in a niche, before you can follow the diagonal crack up rightwards to a hanging belay.
2) 6a, 40m. Above is a peg in an overlap, make your way up to this, large wire to back up the peg and carry on for a further 3m to a heart-in-mouth traverse right to a shallow groove. Follow this until it peters out, and make a move left to a good spike with relief. (Heart of Gold Direct goes direct from the peg in the overlap to the spike at a bolder E6). A rightwards-diagonal crack leads to a niche. A steep move to exit this joins the final pumpy crack of Left-hand Red Wall. © Rockfax


North Wales Rock Graded List, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Great Wall Climbs of the UK


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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 4
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest


Grade: E5 6a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)
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