Rockfax Description
A great wall climb with a loose and committing first pitch but a brilliant second pitch. Start as for Left-hand Red Wall.
1) 5c, 15m. Climb the groove as for LHRW until you can traverse right across a steep bulging wall above the overlap, to a rest in a niche. Climb a diagonal crack up right to a belay.
2) 6a, 40m. Move up to a peg in an overlap. Carry on for 3m to a scary traverse right to a shallow groove. Follow this until it peters out. Make a move left to a good spike with relief. (Heart of Gold Direct, E6 - Direct from the peg to the spike). A rightwards-diagonal crack leads to a niche. A steep move to exit this joins the final pumpy crack of Left-hand Red Wall. © Rockfax


North Wales Rock Graded List , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , North Wales E5s


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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 4
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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