Rockfax Description
Another classic line that has notoriously tricky route finding. Start as for Deygo.
1) 5b, 20m. Traverse right across soft rock, with little in the way of gear, past a poor peg, to gain the dusty chimney. Climb this, exiting steeply right to a poor belay on a small ledge. This is Deygo P1.
2) 5c, 30m. Climb straight up from the belay on dodgy rock to a vague break-line. Traverse left to below a tricky wall, with an even vaguer groove. Follow the groove up and slightly right, before heading straight up to gain a ramp-line leading up right to a ledge at the base of a large flake. Belay at the base of this flake.
3) 5c, 42m. Wade up the flake in a great position to its end at a break. Follow the break left to a small niche, then move up this trending rightwards into a deep slot - passing this is the crux. Follow the easiest line to a groove that leads to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
One of the best outing on Red Walls, Loose, adventurous and at times dangerous.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Good E4s, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Hidden 19/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2017 -
geoff b 06/Aug/16 2nd

An eye popping abseil to the stance at the top of P1 avoided the grim first pitch of Deygo/Pagan. Steve led P2 & Mike P3, I just tagged along for the ride & that was scary enough! Just avoided the incoming rain but not the chilly wind.

Hidden 06/Aug/16 AltLd rpt
Steve Long 06/Aug/16 -

First led this in about 1983. Spooky start to main pitch

Twid Turner ??/2016 -
LRob ??/2016 Lead
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 07/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
markalmack 30/Nov/14 AltLd O/S

Belays weren't to my taste. 1st belay takes No. 3 camalot. Enjoyed the last pitch. the rest was a bit too loose and dangerous to enjoy.

WB 30/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Wasn't too keen on going back after the day before. The first pitch should read climb over the stream through the mud and under the waterfall to reach a sketchy belay which needs a number 3 camalot. Not much fun. Rest of the route is really good.

tim newton 20/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
breed 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Alex Mason 08/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Ace day. First pitch was getting dripped on from all the seepage, second pitch through the seepage and rain on the third! Cold and windy, totally suited the route.

with George Ullrich
Hidden 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Owain Llewelyn 01/Sep/12 AltLd

A great adventure. The first pitch was a proper mankfest but the top two were suprisingly solid.Led p.2, great lead by Andy on p.1/p.3

with Andy
centurion05 01/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Been wanting to do this for ages, wish i hadn't put it off for so long. A really good route with the first being dangerous but straight forward climbing, second tough but good fiddly gear and the third run out. Lead P1 + 3.

with Owain
Hidden ??/2010 -
Dave Turnbull, BMC 09/Sep/09 AltLd

First lead this in 1995. Avoided crux this time as was wet.

with Jon Garside
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Rich Kirby 23/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Led 1st and 3rd. A serious adventure. Route finding being the crux.Got off at sunset, 6 hours after abbing in!

with Craig Smith
Hidden 06/Aug/07 AltLd
pete johnson 06/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Mark Reeves ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden 18/Oct/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/03 AltLd O/S
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead O/S
sadams 05/Aug/00 AltLd
with Tom Briggs
Hidden 08/Aug/98 Lead O/S
switch ??/1997 AltLd O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 27/Sep/96 AltLd

v commiting in the rain

with Muir Morton
Hidden 06/Sep/96 AltLd
Hidden 31/Aug/96 AltLd
Hidden 31/Aug/96 AltLd
Hidden 31/Aug/96 AltLd
duncan ??/1996 AltLd O/S
with Peter Cobb
michael burrows 13/Aug/94 AltLd O/S

led 1st and 3rd pitches

with andy boorman
Bob ??/1990 -
frank ramsay 04/Sep/87 Lead
with Pete Cummings
Hidden 19/Oct/85 Lead
andy gittins ??/1985 AltLd

one of the best experiences at Gogarth

Melok ??/1984 -

Jim jewel on lead, p2 hanging belay on old bicycle crank, is it still there !

charlesmfrench 08/Nov/81 AltLd dnf

L, then Ian tried the next pitch and got very scared so we abbed off. At least the tide was out.

with Ian Milne
Hidden 16/Sep/77 AltLd
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High E5
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High E4
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High E3
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Votes cast 11
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High 5c
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High 5b
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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