Rockfax Description
Another classic line that has notoriously tricky route finding. Start as for Deygo.
1) 5b, 20m. Traverse right across soft rock, with little in the way of gear, past a poor peg, to gain the dusty chimney. Climb this, exiting steeply right to a poor belay on a small ledge. This is Deygo P1.
2) 5c, 30m. Climb straight up from the belay on dodgy rock to a vague break-line. Traverse left to below a tricky wall, with an even vaguer groove. Follow the groove up and slightly right, before heading straight up to gain a ramp-line leading up right to a ledge at the base of a large flake. Belay at the base of this flake.
3) 5c, 42m. Wade up the flake in a great position to its end at a break. Follow the break left to a small niche, then move up this trending rightwards into a deep slot - passing this is the crux. Follow the easiest line to a groove that leads to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
One of the best outing on Red Walls, Loose, adventurous and at times dangerous.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Good E4s, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 19 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2017 -
geoff b 6 Aug, 2016 2nd An eye popping abseil to the stance at the top of P1 avoided the grim first pitch of Deygo/Pagan. Steve led P2 & Mike P3, I just tagged along for the ride & that was scary enough! Just avoided the incoming rain but not the chilly wind.
An eye popping abseil to the stance at the top of P1 avoided the grim first pitch of Deygo/Pagan. Steve led P2 & Mike P3, I just tagged along for the ride & that was scary enough! Just avoided the incoming rain but not the chilly wind.
MikePycroft 6 Aug, 2016 AltLd rpt Abbed in and did top 2 pitches, Steve led the crux and I did the top pitch - first did it in 96
Abbed in and did top 2 pitches, Steve led the crux and I did the top pitch - first did it in 96
Steve Long 6 Aug, 2016 - First led this in about 1983. Spooky start to main pitch
First led this in about 1983. Spooky start to main pitch
Twid Turner ??, 2016 -
LRob ??, 2016 Lead
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Hidden 7 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
markalmack 30 Nov, 2014 AltLd O/S Belays weren't to my taste. 1st belay takes No. 3 camalot. Enjoyed the last pitch. the rest was a bit too loose and dangerous to enjoy.
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
Belays weren't to my taste. 1st belay takes No. 3 camalot. Enjoyed the last pitch. the rest was a bit too loose and dangerous to enjoy.
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
WB 30 Nov, 2014 Lead O/S Wasn't too keen on going back after the day before. The first pitch should read climb over the stream through the mud and under the waterfall to reach a sketchy belay which needs a number 3 camalot. Not much fun. Rest of the route is really good.
Wasn't too keen on going back after the day before. The first pitch should read climb over the stream through the mud and under the waterfall to reach a sketchy belay which needs a number 3 camalot. Not much fun. Rest of the route is really good.
tim newton 20 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
with breed
with breed
breed 20 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
Alex Mason 8 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S Ace day. First pitch was getting dripped on from all the seepage, second pitch through the seepage and rain on the third! Cold and windy, totally suited the route.
with George Ullrich
Ace day. First pitch was getting dripped on from all the seepage, second pitch through the seepage and rain on the third! Cold and windy, totally suited the route.
with George Ullrich
Hidden 21 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
Owain Llewelyn 1 Sep, 2012 AltLd A great adventure. The first pitch was a proper mankfest but the top two were suprisingly solid.Led p.2, great lead by Andy on p.1/p.3
A great adventure. The first pitch was a proper mankfest but the top two were suprisingly solid.Led p.2, great lead by Andy on p.1/p.3
centurion05 1 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S Been wanting to do this for ages, wish i hadn't put it off for so long. A really good route with the first being dangerous but straight forward climbing, second tough but good fiddly gear and the third run out. Lead P1 + 3.
Been wanting to do this for ages, wish i hadn't put it off for so long. A really good route with the first being dangerous but straight forward climbing, second tough but good fiddly gear and the third run out. Lead P1 + 3.
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Dave Turnbull, BMC 9 Sep, 2009 AltLd First lead this in 1995. Avoided crux this time as was wet.
with Jon Garside
First lead this in 1995. Avoided crux this time as was wet.
with Jon Garside
Al Evans ??, 2008 -
Al Evans ??, 2008 -
Rich Kirby 23 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S Led 1st and 3rd. A serious adventure. Route finding being the crux.Got off at sunset, 6 hours after abbing in!
with Craig Smith
Led 1st and 3rd. A serious adventure. Route finding being the crux.Got off at sunset, 6 hours after abbing in!
with Craig Smith
MikePycroft 6 Aug, 2007 AltLd
pete johnson 6 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S
Mark Reeves ??, 2006 -
Ian McNeill ??, 2006 -
Ian McNeill ??, 2006 -
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 -
Hidden 18 Oct, 2003 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18 Oct, 2003 AltLd O/S
tuftynick ??, 2001 Lead O/S
sadams 5 Aug, 2000 AltLd
with Tom Briggs
with Tom Briggs
Hidden 8 Aug, 1998 Lead O/S
Si Witcher ??, 1997 AltLd O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 27 Sep, 1996 AltLd v commiting in the rain
with Muir Morton
v commiting in the rain
with Muir Morton
Hidden 6 Sep, 1996 AltLd
steveb2006 31 Aug, 1996 AltLd A brilliant adventurous route I've been after for some time. Lead the middle pitch.
A brilliant adventurous route I've been after for some time. Lead the middle pitch.
MikePycroft 31 Aug, 1996 AltLd
MikePycroft 31 Aug, 1996 AltLd
duncan ??, 1996 AltLd O/S
with Peter Cobb
with Peter Cobb
michael burrows 13 Aug, 1994 AltLd O/S led 1st and 3rd pitches
with andy boorman
led 1st and 3rd pitches
with andy boorman
Bob ??, 1990 -
Neil McA 6 Aug, 1988 Lead O/S Led all 3 pitches. Great route!
with Richard White
Led all 3 pitches. Great route!
with Richard White
frank ramsay 4 Sep, 1987 Lead
with Pete Cummings
with Pete Cummings
Hidden 19 Oct, 1985 Lead
andy gittins ??, 1985 AltLd one of the best experiences at Gogarth
one of the best experiences at Gogarth
Melok ??, 1984 - Jim jewel on lead, p2 hanging belay on old bicycle crank, is it still there !
Jim jewel on lead, p2 hanging belay on old bicycle crank, is it still there !
charlesmfrench 8 Nov, 1981 AltLd dnf L, then Ian tried the next pitch and got very scared so we abbed off. At least the tide was out.
with Ian Milne
L, then Ian tried the next pitch and got very scared so we abbed off. At least the tide was out.
with Ian Milne
Hidden 16 Sep, 1977 AltLd
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 11
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High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
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Votes cast 10
Votes cast 8
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
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Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
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