Rockfax Description
Slight, but worth doing for the situation. Start from the promontory, at the base of the abseil, where the promontory abuts the crag at a large blunt spike.
1) 5b, 37m. Make a frightening traverse left off the spike to a groove that leads up to a tiny ledge. Climb the left arete of the groove above to another ledge. Shuffle left and head up and left to a detached flake passing a peg. The top of the flake is gained by a semi-mantle move, the peg just above the flake is obvious from the promontory. Climb a line of weakness up and right to a small overlap and step right into a niche below a steep crack. Follow the crack above to a good ledge. Belay further back on a grassy ramp.
2) 4c, 20m. Climb up the grassy ramp to the shoulder and a junction with Deygo. Move up a slab rightwards to gain a groove and finish up this. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, North Wales Rock Graded List, The Road to Shibboleth.

Cam Bevan 09/Oct AltLd
with Daf
Dafydd Llywelyn 09/Oct AltLd O/S
Sardien 30/Sep AltLd O/S

1st time down this area of gogarth....very different e1 experience to anywhere else i've been! I only led the easy bit at the top and found the main event plenty interesting and challenging on a second. It rained at the car park and again when we got to the bottom of the route, gently spitting on Andy half of the way up but the rock stayed dry. Splendid adventure on such an unlikely day to be able to get out!!

with Andy Scott
annihuovinen 09/Sep AltLd

Led the 2nd pitch, easy scramble up, Dave did the hard work.

davkeo 09/Sep AltLd O/S
pingora 08/Sep 2nd O/S
with John Orr
Hidden 26/Aug AltLd O/S
pauldrew 24/Aug Lead
pete johnson 24/Aug 2nd rpt
Hidden 05/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
Richard Kendrick 05/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
with Ellie
Hidden ?/Oct/16 -
Hidden 14/Sep/16 AltLd
Brannock 10/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Led p1, good route, specular position, solid rock, good gear, rare thing on red walls.

Martin Haworth 10/Sep/16 AltLd rpt
geoff b 04/Sep/16 Lead

A lovely warm up on a sunny day. Better climbing & gear than at first appears.

pete johnson 04/Sep/16 2nd rpt
hamish2016 ?/Sep/16 AltLd
with Tom Ripley, Will Harris
Hidden 26/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Abi Chard 26/Aug/16 AltLd
with Ian
Hidden 15/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
FlavioL1989 14/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Martin Haworth 13/Aug/16 AltLd rpt
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Looked very hard and unprotected from the belay but once committed on the route it was ok, sustained 5a. A shame about the scrappy top pitch.

Twid Turner ??/2016 -
LRob ??/2016 Lead
Hidden ??/2016 -
JamesWilliams 25/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

awesome main pitch lead by bren , second pitch is death on a stick be careful

with Bren
Hidden 18/Sep/15 2nd
robpartridge 13/Sep/15 2nd
with Rafe
UncleMephisto 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
wynaptomos 10/Sep/15 2nd O/S
john lynch 31/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Chuffin spiders!

with Bethan D
Hidden 31/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/15 2nd
lanky 01/Aug/15 Lead
with Searle
Dave Almond 07/Sep/14 AltLd

Good warm up on a warm day.

Nicole Almond 06/Sep/14 AltLd

Hot day, good warm up, good climbing. Covered in spiders!

with Dad
Alex Mason 01/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Awesome jug fest and very good rock.

with James Mchaffie
Hidden ??/2014 -
Dan Vaj 13/Oct/13 2nd O/S

one pitch

with James McHaffie
Lenny 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Steve
Martin Haworth 05/Sep/13 Lead rpt

Henrys first taste of Red Wall.

Hidden 02/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
duncandarnell 02/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Tubs 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Good and surprisingly steep low down. Falling off before the second peg would be inadvisable but even the worst sections of rock are as good as the best bit on Red Walls.

with Tim C
Hidden 24/Aug/13 AltLd
Gezzer 23/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 23/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 12/Aug/13 AltLd rpt
victim of mathematics 12/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led the main pitch. Steady, although I nearly conspired to fall off above the good peg anyway due to extreme uselessness. The gear's a bit ropey in the lower half, but the climbing's lovely and the situation is very cool.

with Andy
Hidden 04/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
mike lawrence? 03/Sep/12 Lead

a really good route, though the diagram indicates you should start lower its really loose down there and best just to traverse from the top of the promentory

with Colin
Martin Haworth 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jan/12 -
Captain Gear ??/2012 -
PaulTanton 05/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Very nice, steady

with Anita Grey
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Sep/11 2nd rpt
geoff b 24/Sep/11 Lead

I don't remember much about this, so it can't have been as scary as the rest of the routes hereabouts!

Hidden 02/Sep/11 Lead rpt
al123 31/Aug/11 Lead O/S

nice steady climbing, no real crux just a slighty harder bit. great route

with nic
mynyddresident 31/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Al
Owain Llewelyn 30/Aug/11 2nd
with Doddy
Hidden 26/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
rustaldo 26/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

nice route, felt quite low end E1, good juggy climbing. i lead the first pitch and kit did the second.

stevoland ?/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 AltLd
david morse 08/Oct/10 Lead O/S

in one pitch, not recommended!

with Duncan
Duncan Campbell 08/Oct/10 2nd


Hidden 25/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
philhilo 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Nice opener at Red Walls, 6 parties on Right Hand crag!

with misha
Misha 25/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

First route on Red Wall - as the guide book suggests, pretty solid and amenable, though the crux is right at the very start on the initial traverse in and isn't that well protected. Led P2, which would be quite nice if it wasn't covered in lichen.

with Phil
Hidden 25/Sep/10 AltLd rpt
Hidden 28/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden 28/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Neil Adams 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Great first pitch, horrible top-out.

with Andy N
Ched 11/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden 11/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
centurion05 ??/2010 Lead O/S
with dave g
farmus21 27/Sep/09 2nd
with Tom Ripley
khawk 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with DT
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Carly 16/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with Richard
Ally Smith 05/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Nicos 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Dave Rumney 09/Aug/09 Lead
with Pete Johnston
NeilGriffiths 13/Sep/08 AltLd
with Dave Almomd
Hidden 03/Aug/08 Lead O/S
climbingpixie 03/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Escaped up this after it started raining when we abbed in to do Red Wall. Led easy top pitch.

with Andy Hobson
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Owain Llewelyn 25/Aug/07 Lead

Made more exciting by someone taking a big fall off the finishing moves of Deygo and pulling a block off which missed my very worried dad by a few feet

with Dad
Will1 ?/Jun/07 -
mux ??/2007 -
Hidden 09/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Mark Reeves ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden 30/Aug/04 TR
1202alarm ??/2003 2nd

Good lead by Si

with Si Ball
Hidden 21/Oct/00 AltLd
Hidden 12/Aug/00 2nd
Just Another Dave ??/1999 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/98 AltLd
duncan 05/Oct/97 Lead O/S
with Dave Wills
Hidden 02/Aug/97 2nd
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Roget 29/Aug/96 Lead O/S
with jon
phardman 28/Oct/95 AltLd

Quite good rock

Hidden 15/Oct/95 2nd
Hidden 15/Oct/95 Lead
Hidden ??/1994 2nd
Hidden 05/Sep/93 AltLd
Hidden 20/Sep/92 Lead
steveboote ??/1991 Lead
with Vic Belshaw
Hidden ??/1989 Lead
Hidden 28/Aug/88 2nd
Steve Long ??/1986 Lead

A great introduction to this fantastic crag

with Anita Long
andy gittins ??/1985 -
jon 25/Aug/83 Lead
with H
mikej 14/Sep/82 Lead
with Mike Byles
Steve Lewis 26/Jan/80 AltLd O/S
with Pat
Hidden 28/Aug/79 AltLd
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High E2
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Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 36
High 5c
Mid 5c
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High 5b
Mid 5b
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High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 36
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