Restricted Access
The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
Classic crack climbing. Move up some left-facing flakes to reach the crack and follow it all the way to where moves out right lead to a tree and belay. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start on the left of the buttress below the open book corner/groove with a central flake. Climb straight until you reach the groove and continue up using a combination of laybacking and bridging. Stay within the groove until the end, trending right towards belay at the end.
Good protection behind the flake.
S. Moss, R. Thomas 1975.
Ticklists
Shorn Cliff Nose , But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone? , Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes , Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , Shorn cliff starred routes HVS-E1 according to guidebook
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| PaulJepson | 24 Mar |
Show βeta
βeta: There are some quite dangerous loose blocks around the belay. One looked like a nice place to stand but it wobbled and had nothing much under it. Could kill someone on the ground so don't lay your picnic blanket there. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There are some quite dangerous loose blocks around the belay. One looked like a nice place to stand but it wobbled and had nothing much under it. Could kill someone on the ground so don't lay your picnic blanket there. |
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| Happy Wanderer | 14 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Wasp nest still very much in use in raised ground under ivy to left of the crag. Like a busy Heathrow. Would not have climbed there had we noticed it before we finished the route! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Wasp nest still very much in use in raised ground under ivy to left of the crag. Like a busy Heathrow. Would not have climbed there had we noticed it before we finished the route! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
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The Laughing Cavaliers
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shorn Cliff)