22m. Start on the left of the buttress below the open book corner/groove with a central flake. Climb straight until you reach the groove and continue up using a combination of laybacking and bridging. Stay within the groove until the end, trending right towards belay at the end.
Good protection behind the flake.

S. Moss, R. Thomas 1975

Ticklists

Shorn Cliff Nose, But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone?, Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes, Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)?, CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Bob Peters 28 Jul Lead
Mackinclimb 28 Jul 2nd
bpmclimb 27 Jul Lead rpt
cem 10 Jul Lead O/S Very soft. Anyone who thinks this is HVS needs to get out more.
with James Gregory
Very soft. Anyone who thinks this is HVS needs to get out more.
with James Gregory
Hidden 10 Jul Lead
BStar 30 Jun Lead O/S Looks harder than it is, takes loads of gear all the way up.
with Rachael88, Will Dean
Looks harder than it is, takes loads of gear all the way up.
with Rachael88, Will Dean
Rachael88 30 Jun 2nd
with BStar
with BStar
wjcdean 30 Jun 2nd O/S Tiring! More rests available than I thought though.
Tiring! More rests available than I thought though.
khalidq 9 Jun 2nd β
with Dan Vaj
with Dan Vaj
Dan Vaj 9 Jun Lead O/S
with khalidq
with khalidq
mihai 9 Jun 2nd
Hidden 9 Jun Lead O/S
simoncov 1 Jun Lead O/S Brilliant. Climbed quickly since is pretty physical but not too technical with excellent protection. Would definitely climb it again.
with Etta
Brilliant. Climbed quickly since is pretty physical but not too technical with excellent protection. Would definitely climb it again.
with Etta
Etta 1 Jun 2nd Brilliant route. It would be a classic if it was a bit longer.
Brilliant route. It would be a classic if it was a bit longer.
MD 27 May Lead rpt
with Mark H
with Mark H
Hidden 7 Apr Lead
dprib123 7 Apr 2nd O/S
Rgledable 25 Nov, 2018 Lead O/S Deserving of two stars in my opinion.
Deserving of two stars in my opinion.
aiyer 21 Oct, 2018 Lead
Kev Little 21 Oct, 2018 2nd
with aiyer
with aiyer
Hidden 30 Sep, 2018 2nd
whoisjosh 3 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S Think I could lead this
with Neil Morbey
Think I could lead this
with Neil Morbey
Big Lee 20 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
with annak
with annak
annak 20 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Big Lee
with Big Lee
bpmclimb 11 Jul, 2018 Lead rpt
Huntlyfiddler 11 Jul, 2018 2nd
Ian Stirrups 9 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt
with Chris H
with Chris H
alexbooker87 7 Jun, 2018 Lead
with Cat Cameron
with Cat Cameron
Roland stopps 14 Apr, 2018 2nd
jsmcfarland ??, 2018 Lead rpt Scary wet start
with Roland
Scary wet start
with Roland
Hidden 19 Sep, 2017 2nd
Ian Stirrups 2 Jul, 2017 2nd rpt
with Dave Pillow, Sue
with Dave Pillow, Sue
Hidden 18 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Jun, 2017 Lead
Hidden 1 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
springfall2008 23 May, 2017 2nd O/S Fairly well protected, with a few layback moves between stable bridges. The top looks a bit unstable and the abseil tree is solid but small.
Fairly well protected, with a few layback moves between stable bridges. The top looks a bit unstable and the abseil tree is solid but small.
MD 7 May, 2017 2nd Maybe one 5a move which is very well protected. Even easier than laughing cavaliers.
with Mark H
Maybe one 5a move which is very well protected. Even easier than laughing cavaliers.
with Mark H
tomoneill84 6 May, 2017 Lead
with Niallio
with Niallio
EllieWoods 14 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S
jon_gill1 14 Apr, 2017 Lead rpt
with Leo woods, EllieWoods
with Leo woods, EllieWoods
WillAndrew 2 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
with KatePG
with KatePG
KatePG 2 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S
gw97 18 Mar, 2017 2nd O/S
Angrypenguin 18 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S
with gw97
with gw97
Stanners 8 Oct, 2016 2nd O/S Good stuff Jeff, strenuous
with Jeff Jackson
Good stuff Jeff, strenuous
with Jeff Jackson
aptius 8 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S Enjoyed this more than Bitter Battle Tears, definitely worth 2 stars for my money. Not a lot of jamming needed though, which was slightly disappointing!
Enjoyed this more than Bitter Battle Tears, definitely worth 2 stars for my money. Not a lot of jamming needed though, which was slightly disappointing!
featuresforfeet 11 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 Sep, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 26 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Bob M 12 Aug, 2016 Lead The fallacy is the grade. Surely no more than VS 4c, with perfect protection from largish cams. Good route though, and a different style from most Shorn Cliff climbing.
The fallacy is the grade. Surely no more than VS 4c, with perfect protection from largish cams. Good route though, and a different style from most Shorn Cliff climbing.
Joemanglerocks 6 Aug, 2016 Lead
TimKnight 6 Aug, 2016 2nd
nakedave 29 Jul, 2016 Lead
with tomhull
with tomhull
tomhull 29 Jul, 2016 2nd β
TwofoZeus 18 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
aiyer 18 Jun, 2016 2nd O/S Nice bit of crack climbing! :) Must lead next time...
Nice bit of crack climbing! :) Must lead next time...
Wendy Watthews 18 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
Neil 5 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
Carl Watkins 5 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 2016 Lead G/U
Hidden 19 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
Dino Dave 8 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
with Liam Jones, Hugobristol
with Liam Jones, Hugobristol
si_pro_83 25 Mar, 2016 2nd O/S
with Dizz
with Dizz
Dizz 25 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
with Simon P
with Simon P
Chris Sansum 6 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
with Greg Clarke
with Greg Clarke
gregclarke 6 Sep, 2015 2nd dog Slipped on crux. Managed after rest
with Chris
Slipped on crux. Managed after rest
with Chris
Ian Stirrups 7 Aug, 2015 2nd
with Sue
with Sue
Hidden 2 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 Aug, 2015 2nd
Longsufferingropeholder 2 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
with C May
with C May
Kemics 2 Aug, 2015 2nd rpt
Andrew Sloan 11 Jul, 2015 2nd
with Tim
with Tim
Fred_Richard 9 Jul, 2015 Lead
with terry Claxton
with terry Claxton
poeter210 4 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with druss
with druss
Hidden 4 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S
Hidden 18 Jun, 2015 2nd
Huntlyfiddler 28 May, 2015 2nd
bpmclimb 28 May, 2015 Lead rpt Hmm. Not sure about guidebook description or grade. Don't know where the 5a bit is supposed to be - it seemed sustained 4c to me. Gear is excellent; you could place several sets of hexes/cams if you could be bothered carrying them. And neither of us used a single jam!
Hmm. Not sure about guidebook description or grade. Don't know where the 5a bit is supposed to be - it seemed sustained 4c to me. Gear is excellent; you could place several sets of hexes/cams if you could be bothered carrying them. And neither of us used a single jam!
Kemics 17 May, 2015 Lead O/S For a jamming crack didnt have much jamming. Way easier to layback...and I like hand cracks!
with Lil_Pete, Trish
For a jamming crack didnt have much jamming. Way easier to layback...and I like hand cracks!
with Lil_Pete, Trish
Trisha Murphy 17 May, 2015 2nd
with Pete D, Caleb
with Pete D, Caleb
wilkinscl 17 May, 2015 2nd
Lil_Pete 17 May, 2015 2nd
gingerbex 16 May, 2015 2nd O/S
with Slick
with Slick
Slick 16 May, 2015 Lead
cwildblood 19 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with owen gibson
with owen gibson
jsmcfarland 2 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S Easy, though pumpy 5a warm-up. Plenty of gear. **
with Uncle Kev
Easy, though pumpy 5a warm-up. Plenty of gear. **
with Uncle Kev
Neil D 19 Oct, 2014 2nd O/S
with Dom Southgate, samthompson
with Dom Southgate, samthompson
kivell 7 Sep, 2014 Lead
Ian Stirrups 31 Aug, 2014 2nd About the fifth time on this.
with Sue
About the fifth time on this.
with Sue
Mark Kemball 27 Jul, 2014 Lead The lower section seems to have been affected by a recent rock-fall, however it is still reasonably solid and well protected.
The lower section seems to have been affected by a recent rock-fall, however it is still reasonably solid and well protected.
Tim W 20 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Jul, 2014 Solo O/S
steve phillips 6 Jul, 2014 Lead rpt
with evhall
with evhall
Dave Thompson 24 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with Audry Morrison
with Audry Morrison
mick1jones 22 Mar, 2014 2nd O/S
with Rich Rogers
with Rich Rogers
Ali.B 6 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S Cant believe this gets only 1 star...i enjoyed it more than Tigers and Organ Grinder
with Helen
Cant believe this gets only 1 star...i enjoyed it more than Tigers and Organ Grinder
with Helen
AndyMcCoy 21 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
natalio 8 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S Nice crack climbing, well protected, with good jams or layback or holds around the crack.
with Chris B
Nice crack climbing, well protected, with good jams or layback or holds around the crack.
with Chris B
evhall 1 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S bit of a struggle - but good bridging opportunities help!
bit of a struggle - but good bridging opportunities help!
Dave Mahon 6 May, 2013 2nd If you like bridging, jamming, laybacking, you will love this one!
with Brian Mead
If you like bridging, jamming, laybacking, you will love this one!
with Brian Mead
Dibdawg 5 May, 2013 Lead O/S
with Jody Claridge, Jenni Bristow, Anna Bristow
with Jody Claridge, Jenni Bristow, Anna Bristow
steve_gibbs 5 May, 2013 Lead O/S
George Frisby 5 May, 2013 2nd
fatbuoybazza 28 Apr, 2013 2nd rpt
with Zebra
with Zebra
Hidden 28 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
wurzelinzummerset 6 Apr, 2013 2nd
with mandy
with mandy
smashing1989 24 Feb, 2013 2nd Bitterly cold but good fun all the same
Bitterly cold but good fun all the same
will_benfold 24 Feb, 2013 Lead O/S
with Adam Poundall
with Adam Poundall
Huntlyfiddler 27 Oct, 2012 2nd
bpmclimb 27 Oct, 2012 Lead rpt
Ollie B 13 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
with D.Foster
with D.Foster
Duncan Turner 16 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S Seepage ups the grade considerably! Talk about not able to trust feet placements!
Seepage ups the grade considerably! Talk about not able to trust feet placements!
Hidden 16 Aug, 2012 2nd O/S
Luuuuuke 24 Jul, 2012 2nd O/S
peaches69 24 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
Alastair 15 Jul, 2012 Lead
with Jane Edwards
with Jane Edwards
Jim Malo 24 Jun, 2012 2nd O/S
fatbuoybazza 24 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
leigh 27 May, 2012 Lead O/S layback and bridging - very nice.
with Tim
layback and bridging - very nice.
with Tim
LJKing 13 May, 2012 Lead O/S
with Paul Clarkson, Abi Greves
with Paul Clarkson, Abi Greves
Hidden 12 May, 2012 Lead rpt
MikeLell 6 May, 2012 Lead O/S Second HVS lead!
with Dave
Second HVS lead!
with Dave
RileyJ 16 Apr, 2012 Lead
chrisallan 1 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
cpoad 28 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S Jammed strenuously up the crack placing gear, Neil laybacked more gently which was far better
with Neil C
Jammed strenuously up the crack placing gear, Neil laybacked more gently which was far better
with Neil C
JWB 24 Mar, 2012 2nd
jon_gill1 24 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
with JWB
with JWB
Goose4 10 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S Great route, climbed it in the dark!! Fantastic end to a day
with Chris Ince
Great route, climbed it in the dark!! Fantastic end to a day
with Chris Ince
Vnockles ??, 2012 -
with Chris Allan
with Chris Allan
Slarti B 25 Sep, 2011 2nd O/S Left side pretty wet after rain. had a couple of slips but, I think, held them myself.
with pelvoux
Left side pretty wet after rain. had a couple of slips but, I think, held them myself.
with pelvoux
pelvoux 25 Sep, 2011 Lead
Andy Clarke 21 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Good steep line. Easy for HVS.
with Alex
Good steep line. Easy for HVS.
with Alex
iforwms 23 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with Herman
with Herman
AlexRenshaw 26 Jun, 2011 2nd
with Ted Lister
with Ted Lister
j miller 19 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S easy for the grade.
with elena
easy for the grade.
with elena
Hidden 5 Jun, 2011 Lead dog
gilbert 15 May, 2011 2nd O/S Not sure about jamming, some laybacking and bridging. Nice start to a great day a Shorn Cliff
with Jonathan Percival, Pete Field
Not sure about jamming, some laybacking and bridging. Nice start to a great day a Shorn Cliff
with Jonathan Percival, Pete Field
gripped01 ?May, 2011 Lead
with Gilbert
with Gilbert
Tim M ??, 2011 2nd O/S
Herman Oosthuizen ??, 2011 -
with ifor
with ifor
climbergg ??, 2011 Lead
with Tim M
with Tim M
HarryB 31 Oct, 2010 2nd
Mark Davies PK 17 Sep, 2010 2nd rpt To get rope up for pics
with Mikeski
To get rope up for pics
with Mikeski
ElvisLeg 17 Sep, 2010 2nd O/S
with Mike Grant
with Mike Grant
colkurtz 15 Aug, 2010 Lead
with Robb
with Robb
Hidden 15 Aug, 2010 2nd
Hidden 3 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 3 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S
Hidden 24 Jul, 2010 Lead
surfer38 4 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S Lead on pre-placed gear and added a couple of peices of my own before some trickier moves. Good climbing !
Lead on pre-placed gear and added a couple of peices of my own before some trickier moves. Good climbing !
stvredmond 3 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S felt more tough than what it looked like from the bottom. thought organ grinder was easier
felt more tough than what it looked like from the bottom. thought organ grinder was easier
Helnorris 3 Jul, 2010 2nd Little tough, but enjoyable climb.
Little tough, but enjoyable climb.
ian d f 23 May, 2010 Lead O/S
with Grace Chuchla, markfromstoke
with Grace Chuchla, markfromstoke
markfromstoke 23 May, 2010 2nd
with ian d f
with ian d f
Stone Muppet 10 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S slightly loose in places, and hence a bit of a scary warmup!
with tl
slightly loose in places, and hence a bit of a scary warmup!
with tl
Phil PBC ??, 2010 -
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Trefo 8 Oct, 2009 Solo O/S brilliant solo,thought I was being a wanker half way up it which proves that its a good route to solo!!!
brilliant solo,thought I was being a wanker half way up it which proves that its a good route to solo!!!
aged_ape 18 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
with IH
with IH
Kirill 31 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
with Tim
with Tim
d_meacher 20 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 16 Aug, 2009 Lead rpt
3 Names 9 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 May, 2009 Lead O/S
ellentaylor 24 May, 2009 -
Hidden 11 May, 2009 Lead dnf
Hidden ??, 2009 2nd O/S
gripped01 ??, 2009 Lead O/S
summo ??, 2009 -
Hidden 20 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Jun, 2008 Lead
Feeling bold 10 May, 2008 2nd O/S Really enjoyed this crack with a few challenging moments.
Really enjoyed this crack with a few challenging moments.
thomasadixon 10 May, 2008 Lead rpt Seems like it's been cleaned up alot near the top plus a sling and hanger lower off round the tree.
with Maria
Seems like it's been cleaned up alot near the top plus a sling and hanger lower off round the tree.
with Maria
Dr Caterpillar 3 Nov, 2007 Lead O/S My first proper strenuous (for me) crack
with Circus
My first proper strenuous (for me) crack
with Circus
Circus 26 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S Cool. Big hexes would have been useful.
Cool. Big hexes would have been useful.
Mark Davies PK 20 Oct, 2007 Lead rpt Good route - would be VS on peak Limestone
with Richard popp
Good route - would be VS on peak Limestone
with Richard popp
thomasadixon 8 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S Really nice route, deserves stars. Fairly easy though.
with Rich Popp
Really nice route, deserves stars. Fairly easy though.
with Rich Popp
gdb4060 ?Sep, 2007 Lead
with Peter
with Peter
pelvoux 27 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S First climb of the day
with Mario
First climb of the day
with Mario
Hidden 4 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Apr, 2007 2nd
sam8oy 6 Apr, 2007 2nd O/S
with John
with John
Huntlyfiddler 1 Mar, 2007 2nd
bpmclimb 1 Mar, 2007 Lead O/S Not hard at the grade, but I was also worried by the stuff at the top
Not hard at the grade, but I was also worried by the stuff at the top
maybe_si 7 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S
with jez
with jez
Jez 7 Jul, 2006 2nd O/S
tincann 21 Apr, 2006 Lead O/S
ericinbristol ??, 2006 Lead O/S
with Rich Emerson
with Rich Emerson
AngelaC 31 May, 2005 2nd
with dpc
with dpc
Wil Treasure ?Sep, 2003 Lead The blocks at the top scared me a little.
with StephC
The blocks at the top scared me a little.
with StephC
Hidden ?Sep, 2003 2nd
Hidden 18 Jun, 2003 Lead O/S
1202alarm ??, 2000 -
alan moore ??, 2000 - Good.
Good.
Boxy 22 Aug, 1999 Lead O/S 1st HVS
with Jon H
1st HVS
with Jon H
Mathias Willerup ??, 1998 -
Nigel Coe 10 Jun, 1997 Lead
with Dick Hanson
with Dick Hanson
Hidden 2 Apr, 1995 Lead
18 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 52
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 46
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set