Start on the left of the buttress below the open book corner/groove with a central flake. Climb straight until you reach the groove and continue up using a combination of laybacking and bridging. Stay within the groove until the end, trending right towards belay at the end.
Good protection behind the flake.

Ticklists: Shorn Cliff Nose.

Hidden 19/Sep/17 2nd
Ian Stirrups 02/Jul/17 2nd rpt
with Dave Pillow, Sue
Hidden 18/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/17 Lead
Hidden 01/Jun/17 2nd O/S
springfall2008 23/May/17 2nd O/S

Fairly well protected, with a few layback moves between stable bridges. The top looks a bit unstable and the abseil tree is solid but small.

MD 07/May/17 2nd

Maybe one 5a move which is very well protected. Even easier than laughing cavaliers.

with Mark H
tomoneill84 06/May/17 Lead
with Niallio
EllieWoods 14/Apr/17 2nd O/S
jon_gill1 14/Apr/17 Lead rpt
with Leo woods, EllieWoods
WillAndrew 02/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with KatePG
KatePG 02/Apr/17 2nd O/S
gw97 18/Mar/17 2nd O/S
Angrypenguin 18/Mar/17 Lead O/S
Stanners 08/Oct/16 2nd O/S

Good stuff Jeff, strenuous

with Jeff Jackson
aptius 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Enjoyed this more than Bitter Battle Tears, definitely worth 2 stars for my money. Not a lot of jamming needed though, which was slightly disappointing!

with Rob
featuresforfeet 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Bob M 12/Aug/16 Lead

The fallacy is the grade. Surely no more than VS 4c, with perfect protection from largish cams. Good route though, and a different style from most Shorn Cliff climbing.

with Nick Foot, Ket
Joemanglerocks 06/Aug/16 Lead
TimKnight 06/Aug/16 2nd
nakedave 29/Jul/16 Lead
tomhull 29/Jul/16 2nd β
TwofoZeus 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S
aiyer 18/Jun/16 2nd O/S

Nice bit of crack climbing! :) Must lead next time...

with Wendy
Wendy Watthews 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Neil 05/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Rory
Carl Watkins 05/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Sam T
Hidden 19/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Dino Dave 08/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Liam Jones, Hugo UBMC
si_pro_83 25/Mar/16 2nd O/S
with Liz
Dizz 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Simon P
Chris Sansum 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Greg Clarke
gregclarke 06/Sep/15 2nd dog

Slipped on crux. Managed after rest

with Chris
Ian Stirrups 07/Aug/15 2nd
with Sue
C May 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Tim
Hidden 02/Aug/15 2nd
Longsufferingropeholder 02/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with C May
Kemics 02/Aug/15 2nd rpt
with Pete
Andrew Sloan 11/Jul/15 2nd
with Tim
Fred_Richard 09/Jul/15 Lead
with terry Claxton
poeter210 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Huntlyfiddler 28/May/15 2nd
bpmclimb 28/May/15 Lead rpt

Hmm. Not sure about guidebook description or grade. Don't know where the 5a bit is supposed to be - it seemed sustained 4c to me. Gear is excellent; you could place several sets of hexes/cams if you could be bothered carrying them. And neither of us used a single jam!

with Clare
Kemics 17/May/15 Lead O/S

For a jamming crack didnt have much jamming. Way easier to layback...and I like hand cracks!

with Pete, Trish
Trisha Murphy 17/May/15 2nd
with Pete D, Caleb
wilkinscl 17/May/15 2nd
Lil_Pete 17/May/15 2nd
gingerbex 16/May/15 2nd O/S
Slick 16/May/15 Lead
cwildblood 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with owen gibson
jsmcfarland 02/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Easy, though pumpy 5a warm-up. Plenty of gear. **

with Uncle Kev
Neil D 19/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with Dom Southgate, sam thompson
kivell 07/Sep/14 Lead
Ian Stirrups 31/Aug/14 2nd

About the fifth time on this.

with Sue
Mark Kemball 27/Jul/14 Lead

The lower section seems to have been affected by a recent rock-fall, however it is still reasonably solid and well protected.

Tim W 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/14 Solo O/S
steve phillips 06/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with evhall
Dave Thompson 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Audry Morrison
mick1jones 22/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Rich Rogers
Ali.B 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Cant believe this gets only 1 star...i enjoyed it more than Tigers and Organ Grinder

with Helen
AndyMcCoy 21/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Tony Bird, Andy
natalio 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Nice crack climbing, well protected, with good jams or layback or holds around the crack.

with Chris B
evhall 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

bit of a struggle - but good bridging opportunities help!

with Steve P
Dave Mahon 06/May/13 2nd

If you like bridging, jamming, laybacking, you will love this one!

with Brian Mead
Dibdawg 05/May/13 Lead O/S
with Jody Claridge, Jenni Bristow, Anna Bristow
steve_gibbs 05/May/13 Lead O/S
George Frisby 05/May/13 2nd
fatbuoybazza 28/Apr/13 2nd rpt
with deborah
Hidden 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
wurzelinzummerset 06/Apr/13 2nd
with Andy
smashing1989 24/Feb/13 2nd

Bitterly cold but good fun all the same

will_benfold 24/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Adam Poundall
Huntlyfiddler 27/Oct/12 2nd
bpmclimb 27/Oct/12 Lead rpt
with Clare
Ollie B 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with D.Foster
Duncan Turner 16/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Seepage ups the grade considerably! Talk about not able to trust feet placements!

with stu
Hidden 16/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Luuuuuke 24/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Si
peaches69 24/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with luke
Alastair 15/Jul/12 Lead
with Jane Edwards
Jim Malo 24/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Barry
fatbuoybazza 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with jim
leigh 27/May/12 Lead O/S

layback and bridging - very nice.

with Tim
LJKing 13/May/12 Lead O/S
with Paul Clarkson, Abi Greves
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead rpt
MikeLell 06/May/12 Lead O/S

Second HVS lead!

with Dave
RileyJ 16/Apr/12 Lead
chrisallan 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
cpoad 28/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Jammed strenuously up the crack placing gear, Neil laybacked more gently which was far better

with Neil C
JWB 24/Mar/12 2nd
jon_gill1 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Goose4 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Great route, climbed it in the dark!! Fantastic end to a day

with Chris Ince
Vnockles ??/2012 -
with Chris Allan
Slarti B 25/Sep/11 2nd O/S

Left side pretty wet after rain. had a couple of slips but, I think, held them myself.

with Eric
Andy Clarke 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Good steep line. Easy for HVS.

with Alex
iforwms 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Herman
AlexRenshaw 26/Jun/11 2nd
with Ted Lister
j miller 19/Jun/11 2nd O/S

easy for the grade.

with elena
Hidden 05/Jun/11 Lead dog
gilbert 15/May/11 2nd O/S

Not sure about jamming, some laybacking and bridging. Nice start to a great day a Shorn Cliff

with Jonathan Percival, Pete Field
gripped01 ?/May/11 Lead
with Gilbert
Tim M ??/2011 2nd O/S
with Emma
Herman Oosthuizen ??/2011 -
with ifor
climbergg ??/2011 Lead
HarryB 31/Oct/10 2nd
Mark Davies PK 17/Sep/10 2nd rpt

To get rope up for pics

with Mikeski
ElvisLeg 17/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Mike Grant
colkurtz 15/Aug/10 Lead
with Robb
Hidden 15/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 03/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/10 Lead
surfer38 04/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Lead on pre-placed gear and added a couple of peices of my own before some trickier moves. Good climbing !

stvredmond 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S

felt more tough than what it looked like from the bottom. thought organ grinder was easier

Helnorris 03/Jul/10 2nd

Little tough, but enjoyable climb.

ian d f 23/May/10 Lead O/S
with Grace Chuchla, Mark
markfromstoke 23/May/10 2nd
with Ian
Stone Muppet 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S

slightly loose in places, and hence a bit of a scary warmup!

with tl
Phil PBC ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Trefo 08/Oct/09 Solo O/S

brilliant solo,thought I was being a wanker half way up it which proves that its a good route to solo!!!

aged_ape 18/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with IH
Kirill 31/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Tim
d_meacher 20/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead rpt
3 Names 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/May/09 Lead O/S
ellentaylor 24/May/09 -
Hidden 11/May/09 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/2009 2nd O/S
gripped01 ??/2009 Lead O/S
summo ??/2009 -
Hidden 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/08 Lead
Feeling bold 10/May/08 2nd O/S

Really enjoyed this crack with a few challenging moments.

thomasadixon 10/May/08 Lead rpt

Seems like it's been cleaned up alot near the top plus a sling and hanger lower off round the tree.

with Maria
Dr Caterpillar 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S

My first proper strenuous (for me) crack

with Adam
Circus 26/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Cool. Big hexes would have been useful.

Mark Davies PK 20/Oct/07 Lead rpt

Good route - would be VS on peak Limestone

with Richard popp
thomasadixon 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Really nice route, deserves stars. Fairly easy though.

with Rich Popp
gdb4060 ?/Sep/07 Lead
with Peter
pelvoux 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S

First climb of the day

with Mario
Hidden 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S
tebs 25/Apr/07 2nd
with Sci
sam8oy 06/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with John
Huntlyfiddler 01/Mar/07 2nd
bpmclimb 01/Mar/07 Lead O/S

Not hard at the grade, but I was also worried by the stuff at the top

with Clare
maybe_si 07/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with jez
Jez 07/Jul/06 2nd O/S
tincann 21/Apr/06 Lead O/S
ericinbristol ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Rich Emerson
AngelaC 31/May/05 2nd
Wil Treasure ?/Sep/03 Lead

The blocks at the top scared me a little.

with StephC
Hidden ?/Sep/03 2nd
Hidden 18/Jun/03 Lead O/S
1202alarm ??/2000 -
alan moore ??/2000 -


Boxy 22/Aug/99 Lead O/S

1st HVS

with Jon H
Nigel Coe 10/Jun/97 Lead
with Dick Hanson
Hidden 02/Apr/95 Lead
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 47
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 41
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set