UKC

22m.

Rockfax Description
Classic crack climbing. Move up some left-facing flakes to reach the crack and follow it all the way to where moves out right lead to a tree and belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start on the left of the buttress below the open book corner/groove with a central flake. Climb straight until you reach the groove and continue up using a combination of laybacking and bridging. Stay within the groove until the end, trending right towards belay at the end.
Good protection behind the flake.

S. Moss, R. Thomas 1975.

Ticklists

Shorn Cliff Nose , But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone? , Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes , Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , Shorn cliff starred routes HVS-E1 according to guidebook

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User Date Notes
Happy Wanderer 14 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Wasp nest still very much in use in raised ground under ivy to left of the crag. Like a busy Heathrow. Would not have climbed there had we noticed it before we finished the route!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wasp nest still very much in use in raised ground under ivy to left of the crag. Like a busy Heathrow. Would not have climbed there had we noticed it before we finished the route!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 57
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 54
Votes cast 52
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Organ Grinder

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shorn Cliff)

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