Rockfax Description
A tough proposition even with the easier and safer start. The extremely bold original start is up the line of weakness 3m right and has the terrifying grade of E5 5c. An exciting 50m diagonal abseil gains a belay; a reasonable spike on a ledge below the main line of weakness. Start by moving up the wall from a sloping ledge by a couple of suspect spikes, there may or may not be a peg, which is passed on the left. Move up and right into a sandy area below an overlap and then traverse right into the main groove system. Head up the groove passing much decaying ironmongery left by the first ascent - filmed and broadcast live by the BBC in 1966. At about 25m the grooves split, take the right-hand groove past a couple of overlaps. Step out right to a small ledge and then climb the wall to enter an upper vertical groove, finish up this to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Steve Long 02/Sep Lead

A fabulous pitch. The original start is actually pretty steady and has reasonable pro, you just need to weave around a bit. The easiest way seems to be to step left at the first bolt remains. There are wires up and right and a large cam up and left. At this point there are good pockets in the edges of the sandy chimney to the left. Or you can climb straight up to the obvious flat topped block directly above the old bolt. From here there are more pockets in the sandier rock out left again.Higher up its easy to miss the move right into the subsidiary groove as it looks quite unlikely. Its at the point where the main groove gets a bit blanker and there are at least 2 pegs + the odd bolt visible in the continuation corner. A tricky step right gains a great hidden side hold in the the base of the righthand groove. This groove gives ace climbing with some high rock overs along the way.

with Chris Parkin
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Steve Crowe 01/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Brilliant climbing. Slow thoughtful and careful movement. Over thirty runners. Slings on bolt studs etc.

with KM
Rachel Slater 06/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Sustained and difficult climbing with loose rock and not great gear. Tim went all the way up the left groove which felt 6a at the top.

tim newton 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S

I followed the pegs all the way up the left hand groove until the big roof 3/4 of the way up where I traversed right underneath it, instead of traversing into the right hand groove lower down as you're meant to. It just seemed so obvious to follow all the old fixed gear. The 'safer start' is not safe, there's no peg, it's run out and the holds are suspect. Very sustained, felt like 5b or 5c almost every other move. Some good pro, lots of in situ gear. I took a bigger rack than I've ever took for a climb before, 20 quickdraws, and still ran out, could have done with a few more. A big E4 lead.

Martin Cooper 30/Aug/14 2nd

Felt hard

with Stan
donie 28/Sep/13 -

Agree with e4.long sustained and tricky route finding.beta alert Best start is 4m left twin spikes and climb quartzite groove to overlap then traverse R use long slings to avoid drag. The traverse R at half hight moves under the first overhang you can clip high fixed gear on L and reverse to overhang. Bring loads long extenders big rack nd have a bunch wires set to loop over the hanger less bolts

Dave Turnbull, BMC 29/Sep/12 2nd
with Dan Donovan
Alex Mason 02/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Quite a head stress on this. Pretty loose to begin, then gradually got used to this sort of rock. Tricky 5c crux with a shit peg for protection on crux. Also went up the groove direct with all the old pegs and stumps for too long, then had to reverse. Took 16 extenders and ran out 3 runnners from the top. Handful of bigish cams would be useful (2.5-3.5).

with Mikey G
Hidden 19/Oct/09 2nd dnf
geoff b 13/Aug/09 2nd

I don't think I've ever been quite so gripped seconding a route since the early 1990s on some of the Culm coast's classics. A very impressive lead by Pete.

Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden 15/Sep/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/98 Lead
Hidden 01/Aug/98 2nd
Hidden 01/Aug/98 2nd
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