12m. Some vigorous undercutting across the width of the roof gives a good workout. The climb has been reduced in height to a new, lower, and much more healthy, double ring abseil station.
Gain the start of the ramp and follow it as steepens to reach the far right end of the capping roof. Follow a series of powerful undercuts to a more agreeable position at the left end of the roof then pull over onto the lip. Move up again and traverse right until a last step up reaches a new double ring abseil station.
Re-cleaned and re-equipped, with extra bolt added on the lip of the roof in 2012.

G A Jenkin, T Penning, M Corbett, A Tallant 18/Jun/1991

tom.wp6 01/Sep Lead RP

Got this 3rd try in the twilight!

Dale Comley 11/Aug Solo O/S

Lead rope solo

Martin Bagshaw 11/Aug Lead O/S
Euan Todd 20/Jul Lead RP

First go today; second go overall. Really like this, think it might be my favourite route in the New Quarry! The lower section is great with big undercut moves, solid fingerlocks and pretty decent feet (for limestone). The top section is a lovely change of style into technical wall climbing. Soooo nearly dropped the last move as my fingers were creeping into the pocket at the chains! Felt solid 6c+ to me today.

with Digga
reubenhf 06/Jul Lead dnf
with Tom P
tom.wp6 06/Jul Lead dog
Didymus 10/Jun Lead RP

A struggle, went direct to roof and direct over roof - tough at 6c+

PaulTclimbing 10/Jun Lead rpt

Reading ukc description would have helped. Went direct from side pulls up to undercut roof and direct over the roof to bolts. Was desperate and harder than brutal dub.

with Jon
Stanners 28/Apr Lead dog


with Kel Vargas
Billg 01/Apr Lead O/S
with Will Calvert
smartydh9 01/Apr -
WillAndrew 16/Sep/16 Lead RP
with Ali
Hidden 05/Aug/16 Lead RP
just one more 17/May/16 Lead RP

Good climbing. 6c+ on the topo,and still no giveaway

sam.sam.sam.ferguson 25/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Marti999 25/Apr/16 Lead RP
Hidden 24/Apr/16 Lead O/S
james n ?/Apr/16 Lead RP
Tom Heslam ?/Mar/16 Lead rpt
with Bella Jackson
Hidden 21/Aug/15 Lead G/U
Robheirene 21/Aug/15 Lead RP

Nails for the grade! Thought 6c+ in the topo was harsh. 1st RP by the skin of my teeth

Alex Winter 29/Jul/15 Lead rpt

Pulled a hold off near the belay and nearly hit Pauline on the melon.

with Pauline, Steve, and Liam
Kev Little ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
sideshow84 09/Jun/15 Lead RP

1st attempt today, clipping, 3rd attempt in total

Hidden 09/Jun/15 Lead RP
Holister 04/Jun/15 Lead RP
with lee
Hidden 04/Jun/15 Lead dog
sideshow84 04/Jun/15 Lead dog

2 attempts with rests, will go next time hopefully!

Tom Seccombe 18/May/15 Lead RP

2nd go

with max goodman
Bates 12/May/15 Lead RP
with Andy Brice
Bristoldave 02/May/15 Lead O/S
with john
Dan Jenkin 20/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Gordon Jenkin
k_k 29/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Cheese Monkey 26/Jul/14 Lead RP

Finally! In the climbing masterclass. Steve said I just had to try alot harder so I did and it worked

with Brum guys, Steve McClure
Hidden 20/Jul/14 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Jul/14 Lead RP
afrosam 17/Jul/14 Lead RP
with DaveX
zcsharp 03/Jul/14 Lead dog
Jim Tan ?/Jun/14 Lead RP
clams ?/Jun/14 Lead dog
with Jim
zcsharp 09/May/14 Lead dog

Very interesting route, such a contrast between the top and bottom, definitely gonna try and get it clean next time.

Hidden 09/May/14 Lead rpt
LucasHarazin 30/Apr/14 Lead β
just one more 30/Apr/14 Lead dog
Cheese Monkey 15/Apr/14 Lead dog

Got all the moves but so tired

with Iggy
squicky 15/Apr/14 2nd dnf

Too tough. Got to the lip then almost died.

with Ben
Hidden 10/Apr/14 Lead O/S
tommy.henriksson78 ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/14 TR dog
Johnny Baker 26/Mar/14 Lead RP

Hard unless you spot the good holds over the roof. Rope running over the razor sharp roof edge was a tad unnerving

with Sam Richards
Hidden 26/Mar/14 Lead RP
Cheese Monkey 26/Mar/14 Lead dnf

I'll be back

with Helen
_m.cox_ 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S
Tom Heslam 02/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Tim M ?/Aug/13 Lead RP
with Phil T
Chubbard 31/Jul/13 Lead dnf

Couldn't work out how to get up to the overlap.

with Derek
BeccaSnowden 22/Jul/13 Lead RP

Took a few goes to get the tricky moves below the roof.

with Pippa
Rosea Day ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Alex Winter 28/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Climbed like a git and got very pumped.

with Ross
Hidden 28/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Garrouli 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Ioanna
hankyc ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Tom Brierley Gore 30/Apr/13 Lead rpt

There is a super efficient way of doing the top, trust me.

thomasadixon 30/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Very good climbing I thought, though it takes a bit of lateral thinking. Well worth climbing.

with Becca
Tom Brierley Gore 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Just been re-bolted, with new lower off just bellow the bulge, don't think it really makes much difference. Tricky in places but over all quite a nice route i thought... bit surprised at the comments bellow. Be careful when lowering off... there are sharp edges, (best to abseil off)

richiebongo ??/2010 Lead O/S


with Jon Didymus
Paz 25/May/08 Lead RP

Substantially more exciting than Dinosaur Beach, etc. A missing last bolt makes the adjectival grade (E3) seem apt, but a good cam 1.5 (a 2 will also go in shallow but it may get stuck!) is available down and right of the stub. I clipped the peg on the left and placed an optional rock/wallnut 4 on the right, and used the Eco above the roof on the right. The ab station was OK as they go in the New Quarry, but maybe bring some tatt and maillons or krabs if you're squeamish.

with WG
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
Hidden 30/Apr/89 AltLd
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High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
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Low 6b+
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set