18m.
Unusual climb for Torbay, an accessible steep offwidth crack climb, VS with giant cams. A bouldery start gains the bottom of the deep splitter offwidth crack, and a good large nut placement. Udge, chicken wing, wedge and thrutch your way upwards to handjams and a chockstone. Pull into the top funnel and finish easily with care not to dislodge loose rock onto your belayer. Good tree belays.
FA. Chris Ebbutt, Tim Reynolds 12/Apr/2017.
Ticklists
South Devon Stars: Diff - HVS , Devonian Crack Addict
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| misterb | 10 Feb |
Show βeta
βeta: VS with big cams ? E1 without them is a better description. Potential for ground fall on to boulders if you messed up the tricky moves higher up as the good wires are quite low. Great little route, quite pumpy, but serious without a couple of grey size camalot or dragon etc | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: VS with big cams ? E1 without them is a better description. Potential for ground fall on to boulders if you messed up the tricky moves higher up as the good wires are quite low. Great little route, quite pumpy, but serious without a couple of grey size camalot or dragon etc |
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| wiwwim | 7 Oct, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Don\'t forget a helmet! the top is the most crumbly, friable choss-fest. Sling the trees to keep the rope away from the gravel shute. Nice route though! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Don't forget a helmet! the top is the most crumbly, friable choss-fest. Sling the trees to keep the rope away from the gravel shute. Nice route though! |
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Route of Interest
Kinky Cowboy
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Baggy Point)