Rockfax Description
A route that we only have a rough description for, but which finishes on top of Pillaren. Described as "splitter crack climbing".
Approach - As for Nordryggen on Vågakallen (p.258) but break up right when you see a crack up and right at the scree traverse to the north ridge.
1) N7+, 40m. Finger and hand-crack.
2) N5-, 15m. Traverse diagonally rightwards.
3) N6-, 60m. A long pitch up a pinnacle, a groove then down a flake and up a run-out gully.
4) N5, 20m. A chossy gully.
5) N6, 35m. A finger-crack leading to a chimney.
6) N6+, 30m. A finger-crack then steep hand-crack to the ridge.
Descent - 1 to 2 hours of scrambling and abseiling down a gully to the left. Care needed. © Rockfax

FA. Charlie Long, Thomas Sloss 24.6.2014 24/Jun/2014.

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