Arrange gear, including clipping the old peg, then down to the deck for a rest. Go up on greasy pockets to the right of the peg, then traverse back higher, tricky on smooth flat holds, to the thread. Easier, excellent climbing above leads up to the very steep top wall, where a big reach off a sharp hold leads to a break, then easier to the top. Amazing pitch!

Ticklists: The Best of Pembroke.

La Mont 17/Aug/16 2nd β
with Ellis
JenShelley 15/Aug/16 2nd
with Mike
MichaelGallimore 15/Aug/16 Lead rpt

Fell off this a couple of months ago in very very greasy conditions (foggy and rainy). Crux for me was the traverse back left above the peg, where I fell last time and left gear. Went clean today. Amazing route, full on climbing all the way to the top, and every move is such fun!

Luke Brooks 09/Aug/16 2nd
with Will
willoates 09/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Good route but a bit eliminate. Maybe not quite as good as headhunter and Minotaur, still 3 stars anywhere else.

with Luke
Ed Babs 08/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Sweet. Tricky moving left above low peg, but steady elsewhere.

with AlexD
AlexD 08/Aug/16 2nd

Cool. Easier than Bloody Sunday (to second).

with Ed
eel 08/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Ginja ninja jack

Jack93 08/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Eve
Luke Brooks 02/Jul/16 Lead rpt
with Kate
Hidden 02/Jul/16 2nd
Russtygibbons 30/May/16 2nd dog
with Ant
GPN 29/May/16 2nd
with Duncan, Mikey G
Matt Cooke 29/May/16 Lead O/S
with Sam Taylor
MichaelGallimore 17/May/16 Lead dnf

Feeling humbled and tired by seconding Flavio on Bloody sunday, abbed back down to try this line, now the tide had come in and rain had stopped there was a damp mist in the air. After deliberating and changing my mind twice I gave it a shot, climbed past the first crux then greased off whilst trying really hard not to. We had do prussic back out of the leap because even Shape Up was too wet to climb. Fun day, and what a good route to have waiting for me when i come back :)

with Flavio
Hidden 15/May/16 Lead
Duncan Campbell 08/May/16 2nd rpt

Pleasure to do again. Felt pretty steady this time.

with Almadad
markalmack 08/May/16 Lead O/S


Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Russell Birkett 04/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this, another excellent long pitch. Great crag.

with Tim Whitaker
pete johnson 11/Aug/15 Lead rpt
with Dave Rumney
Dave Rumney 11/Aug/15 2nd
with Pete Johnston
JBO 07/Aug/15 Lead O/S

The most fun you can ever have on an E5!

Hidden 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S
tash 01/Aug/15 2nd

First time in the Leap!

with ali k
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
w.pettet-smith ?/Jul/15 -

awesome, favorite route of a good weekend

with ben
brunomarks 05/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Via direct start past peg (now very rusty but good gear not too far below). Really nice route - good honest climbing!

with Neil Lowry
Ramon Marin 25/May/15 Lead O/S

Really happy with this as it's my first proper E5 onsight coming out of the ice climbing season. No beta, but chalk helped follow the way of course. Felt pretty steady, all gear is bomber. A trad route for sport climbers, maybe 6c+ climbing. I assume the other E5's in leap are a whole different story though...

with viki harvey
NDD 23/May/15 Lead β
with tony stone
Hidden 10/Apr/15 Lead O/S
pete johnson 10/Apr/15 Lead dog


geoff b 10/Apr/15 2nd

Too wet to climb free, had to dog it. A great effort by Pete just to get up it.

Tom Livingstone 09/Apr/15 2nd rpt
with Oli Grounsell
HAJ Francis ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Gary Gibson ??/2015 -
Hidden 12/Sep/14 Lead O/S
nathanlee 12/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Neil Mawson
Misha 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Dan
dan gibson 30/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with Misha
Apharri 29/Aug/14 Lead dog

Head not in it

with Dave Wharton
Hidden 17/Aug/14 Lead
dav 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Gill B
tim newton 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Had just belayed Tim on it but did most of it totally differently.. Gear beta at the start probably helped a little.

Duncan Campbell 15/Aug/14 2nd
with GuyVG
Hidden 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
conorcussell 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
danJBA 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Mike
quiffhanger 21/Jun/14 Lead β

Brilliant! Led shortly after belaying Conor on it, so pretty stress-free with all the beta.

with Conor
Jack_F 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Remus
remus 19/Apr/14 2nd rpt
Adam Booth 19/Apr/14 2nd rpt
Ed Booth 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
anguskille 19/Apr/14 2nd β
Tom Livingstone 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
fennerz 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Angus Kille
phil64 ?/Apr/14 2nd rpt
with tom livingstone
i_a_coops ??/2014 Lead O/S

Mono undercling! So hard!

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2014 Lead O/S
with Sam Underhill
Ed morris 12/Oct/13 Lead O/S

E4 into E3, with a hands off rest inbetween.

with stefan
shoulders 30/Aug/13 TR O/S

Wet in the pockets and the traverse back left after the detour on the right

with jon shewring, mike shewring, andy sharp
Adam Booth 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Damp at the bottom which made the move left hard. Easier higher up. Great combo!

with Matty Rawlinson
soph 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Helena Robinson
Hidden 24/Aug/13 Lead β
Ally Smith 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Aly
steve_yo 24/Aug/13 Lead
Ricky Rocks 24/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
remus 03/Aug/13 Lead RP

Had previously seconded Keen Dan on it. Managed to reach up and place a solid cam that protected the crux, felt a lot more reassuring than the shonky old peg. Thin moves across felt harder than before. Top section was as cool as ever. Cobra crack move etc.

Dave Turnbull, BMC 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Pete the Vet
brices 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant, First E5?

Keendan 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Messy lead. Heavy rain but fairly sheltered. I got incredibly pumped very quickly by the peg. Climbed direct to the peg then right. Foot slipped and nearly fell on the traverse left. The rest of the route is absolutely awesome, and the juggy finish is thrilling!

with Remus
remus 14/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Top effort from kd on the lead. Conditions were challenging (i.e. it was raining) but he kept it together and topped out in good style. Bottom section is pretty cruxy, some precarious moves past the peg that would put you close to the ground. Stepping left of the ledge was also a little taxing. Top is spectacular, super sweet cobra crack move to a bit of a sloper then good holds all the way to the top.

Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
mark20 20/Apr/13 2nd O/S
david morse 30/Aug/11 Lead β

Flash. Abseiled the line last year to clean kit, also had a look at the top thread before the send. Second route on the west it the best wall in the UK?

with lole
datoon 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with K
thomasadixon 02/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Go around right version at the bottom of JAD. Really good climb!

with Mike
redjerry ?/Aug/11 TR O/S
Billg 03/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with Will Calvert
colesy 27/Jun/11 Lead O/S

With Si T

Luke Brooks 26/Apr/11 2nd
with John Orr
Pete Graham 25/Apr/11 2nd
dan gibson 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with richard lade
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
mwatson ??/2011 -
feilx 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Heather
phil64 ??/2010 Lead O/S
Shauna 01/Jul/09 2nd dog
with Jules
Ricky Rocks 27/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Tough start, leads into sustained pitch, fab climbing throughout.

morganator 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Ian Parnell 25/Jul/08 2nd rpt
with Tim Emmett
jfreeman 03/May/08 2nd
with Ben Freeman
bfreeman 03/May/08 Lead O/S
with Jon Freeman
Alex Mason 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Excellent. First E5 (hard E4), was very aprehensive at first but once id arranged some gear at the start and come back to the deck it was steady enough to the top. F6c, not pumpy and more than adequate gear.

Ram MkiV 26/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Prevaricated on scorch the earth's crux for a while. Great moves.

with Dan
Hidden 16/Aug/07 Lead β
keefe 26/Aug/06 Lead
with Tansy
AlexRenshaw 26/Aug/06 2nd
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead dog
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
valecoastclimber 07/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 2nd
Davros the Psyched ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/00 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 05/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with Dave Taylor
Greg Cunningham ?/Aug/97 Lead β

had lead JAD and STE a year or two before

with guy exley
Steve Crowe 01/Sep/96 2nd O/S
with KM
Hidden 26/Aug/94 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/94 Lead O/S
Billg ?/Jul/91 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby ??/1991 Lead O/S

Another contender for first E5. Soft at grade.

whispering nic ?/Aug/90 Lead
with Blaggy
William Robertson ??/1989 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden 07/Jul/87 -
Steve Lewis 22/May/84 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle
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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 39
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 31
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set