Arrange gear, including clipping the old peg, then down to the deck for a rest. Go up on greasy pockets to the right of the peg, then traverse back higher, tricky on smooth flat holds, to the thread. Easier, excellent climbing above leads up to the very steep top wall, where a big reach off a sharp hold leads to a break, then easier to the top. Amazing pitch!

Ticklists

The Best of Pembroke

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James Oswald 23 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Amazing route. Take lots of draws
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Amazing route. Take lots of draws
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Richard Kendrick 20 Apr Lead O/S
with Alice, Frances Bensley
with Alice, Frances Bensley
James Oswald ?Apr Lead G/U First Pembroke E5. Great climbing. Yo-yo. Did it slightly wrong at the first hard move and then let go. Lowered off. Did in a oner after that. Good technical first crux (with good gear), then jug pulling for 20 metres then a reachy upper wall. Great introduction to Pembroke/ leap E5s.
First Pembroke E5. Great climbing. Yo-yo. Did it slightly wrong at the first hard move and then let go. Lowered off. Did in a oner after that. Good technical first crux (with good gear), then jug pulling for 20 metres then a reachy upper wall. Great introduction to Pembroke/ leap E5s.
Si Witcher ?? -
mshorter 25 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with Mike C
with Mike C
Mike_Hayes 25 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with Mike Lea
with Mike Lea
DavidMcK 8 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Chuffed to get my first E5 onsight, traverse is nails but the rest isn't too bad if you can recover on the good rests. Some class big moves between big holds, gear is a little spacey at times but there's lots of threads which makes it less intimidating.
Chuffed to get my first E5 onsight, traverse is nails but the rest isn't too bad if you can recover on the good rests. Some class big moves between big holds, gear is a little spacey at times but there's lots of threads which makes it less intimidating.
Hugh Simons 8 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S The traverse was nails, may have had some slight assistance from the rope to avoid barn-dooring off.. but apart from that, what a route! Awesome steady lead from David. Got an undercut mono for the big move above the top thread, so cool!
The traverse was nails, may have had some slight assistance from the rope to avoid barn-dooring off.. but apart from that, what a route! Awesome steady lead from David. Got an undercut mono for the big move above the top thread, so cool!
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 7 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Such a good route. Seconded it later in the trip and realised that I blocked a crucial undercut with a cam when I led it, giving a really hard move on the top wall. Glad I did though, made it more interesting!
Such a good route. Seconded it later in the trip and realised that I blocked a crucial undercut with a cam when I led it, giving a really hard move on the top wall. Glad I did though, made it more interesting!
beni 8 Jul, 2018 2nd dog
beni 12 May, 2018 Lead
Annika Marie 12 May, 2018 2nd dog
with beni
with beni
Russell Blackaller 28 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
gazhbo 20 Aug, 2017 Lead β
harry_lewis 19 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with Ed Teale
with Ed Teale
mrteale 19 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S Great lead by Harry. Amazing Route.
Great lead by Harry. Amazing Route.
Alice Thompson 18 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Llinos C 17 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with brices
with brices
Katekeltie 12 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 12 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Flavio 10 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S #6
with Jumar Jenny
#6
with Jumar Jenny
JendeHoxar 10 Aug, 2017 2nd
with Flavio
with Flavio
Ramon Marin 6 Aug, 2017 2nd rpt Another mega lead from the flyonhg scotsman, another all points off dyno at the bottom traverse, great to watch.
with Douglas Russell
Another mega lead from the flyonhg scotsman, another all points off dyno at the bottom traverse, great to watch.
with Douglas Russell
D.Russell 6 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Great climbing. moving back left above the peg felt hard. Ended up just jumping to the flake as couldn't reach it.
Great climbing. moving back left above the peg felt hard. Ended up just jumping to the flake as couldn't reach it.
andyinglis 1 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Brilliant route! Hard traverse left above the peg low down and hard moves above upper thread.
Brilliant route! Hard traverse left above the peg low down and hard moves above upper thread.
Mark Warnett ?Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Went up to the right of the peg and didn't clip it which is the obvious line. Absolutely cracking route at least as good as Bloody Sunday, steady away E4 and protection fantastic (3 bomber threads in a row at one point!)
with Andy O'Conner
Went up to the right of the peg and didn't clip it which is the obvious line. Absolutely cracking route at least as good as Bloody Sunday, steady away E4 and protection fantastic (3 bomber threads in a row at one point!)
with Andy O'Conner
Hidden ?Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Jul, 2017 Lead β
AlexRenshaw 10 Jul, 2017 2nd
with Tim Raffle
with Tim Raffle
feilx 25 Jun, 2017 Lead rpt
with Gaetan L
with Gaetan L
funsized 25 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
with sophie, Gaton, Nikolai, Callum, feilx
with sophie, Gaton, Nikolai, Callum, feilx
Sophie Nunn 25 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Wendy 21 May, 2017 Lead O/S
Holister 21 May, 2017 2nd O/S
with Wendy
with Wendy
Hidden ??, 2017 -
La Mont 17 Aug, 2016 2nd β
with Ellis
with Ellis
JendeHoxar 15 Aug, 2016 2nd
Hidden 15 Aug, 2016 Lead rpt
willoates 9 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Good route but a bit eliminate. Maybe not quite as good as headhunter and Minotaur, still 3 stars anywhere else.
Good route but a bit eliminate. Maybe not quite as good as headhunter and Minotaur, still 3 stars anywhere else.
Luke Brooks 9 Aug, 2016 2nd
eel 8 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Ginja ninja jack
Ginja ninja jack
Ed Babs 8 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Sweet. Tricky moving left above low peg, but steady elsewhere.
with AlexD
Sweet. Tricky moving left above low peg, but steady elsewhere.
with AlexD
Jack93 8 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
with Eve
with Eve
AlexD 8 Aug, 2016 2nd Cool. Easier than Bloody Sunday (to second).
with Ed Babs
Cool. Easier than Bloody Sunday (to second).
with Ed Babs
Ellis Bird ?Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 2 Jul, 2016 Lead rpt
with KB83
with KB83
Hidden 2 Jul, 2016 2nd
Russtygibbons 30 May, 2016 2nd dog
GPN 29 May, 2016 2nd
with Duncan Campbell, Mikey G
with Duncan Campbell, Mikey G
Matt Cooke 29 May, 2016 Lead O/S
with Sam Taylor
with Sam Taylor
Hidden 17 May, 2016 Lead dnf
Hidden 15 May, 2016 Lead
markalmack 8 May, 2016 Lead O/S good!
good!
Duncan Campbell 8 May, 2016 2nd rpt Pleasure to do again. Felt pretty steady this time.
Pleasure to do again. Felt pretty steady this time.
Twid Turner ??, 2016 -
Russell Birkett 4 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S Really enjoyed this, another excellent long pitch. Great crag.
with Tim Whitaker
Really enjoyed this, another excellent long pitch. Great crag.
with Tim Whitaker
pete johnson 11 Aug, 2015 Lead rpt
with Dave Rumney
with Dave Rumney
Dave Rumney 11 Aug, 2015 2nd
with Pete Johnston
with Pete Johnston
JBO 7 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S The most fun you can ever have on an E5!
The most fun you can ever have on an E5!
Hidden 1 Aug, 2015 2nd
Hidden 1 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
w.pettet-smith ?Jul, 2015 - awesome, favorite route of a good weekend
with ben
awesome, favorite route of a good weekend
with ben
brunomarks 5 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S Via direct start past peg (now very rusty but good gear not too far below). Really nice route - good honest climbing!
with Neil Lowry
Via direct start past peg (now very rusty but good gear not too far below). Really nice route - good honest climbing!
with Neil Lowry
irish paul ?Jun, 2015 Lead O/S On a scorching day with Sarah threatening to lead it if I didn't!
On a scorching day with Sarah threatening to lead it if I didn't!
Ramon Marin 25 May, 2015 Lead O/S Really happy with this as it's my first proper E5 onsight coming out of the ice climbing season. No beta, but chalk helped follow the way of course. Felt pretty steady, all gear is bomber. A trad route for sport climbers, maybe 6c+ climbing. I assume the other E5's in leap are a whole different story though...
with viki harvey
Really happy with this as it's my first proper E5 onsight coming out of the ice climbing season. No beta, but chalk helped follow the way of course. Felt pretty steady, all gear is bomber. A trad route for sport climbers, maybe 6c+ climbing. I assume the other E5's in leap are a whole different story though...
with viki harvey
NDD 23 May, 2015 Lead β
with tony stone
with tony stone
Hidden 10 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
pete johnson 10 Apr, 2015 Lead dog Wet
with geoff b
Wet
with geoff b
geoff b 10 Apr, 2015 2nd Too wet to climb free, had to dog it. A great effort by Pete just to get up it.
Too wet to climb free, had to dog it. A great effort by Pete just to get up it.
Tom Livingstone 9 Apr, 2015 2nd rpt
with Oli Grounsell
with Oli Grounsell
HAJ Francis ?Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
Gary Gibson ??, 2015 -
Dan Arkle ??, 2015 Lead O/S
nathanlee 12 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with Neil Mawson
with Neil Mawson
Hidden 12 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
dan gibson 30 Aug, 2014 2nd rpt
with Misha
with Misha
Misha 30 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Apharri 29 Aug, 2014 Lead dog Head not in it
with Dave Wharton
Head not in it
with Dave Wharton
Hidden 17 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Aug, 2014 Lead
Rachel Slater 15 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Had just belayed Tim on it but did most of it totally differently.. Gear beta at the start probably helped a little.
Had just belayed Tim on it but did most of it totally differently.. Gear beta at the start probably helped a little.
Duncan Campbell 15 Aug, 2014 2nd
with Wft
with Wft
tim newton 15 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
quiffhanger 21 Jun, 2014 Lead β Brilliant! Led shortly after belaying Conor on it, so pretty stress-free with all the beta.
Brilliant! Led shortly after belaying Conor on it, so pretty stress-free with all the beta.
danJBA 21 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
with Mike
with Mike
Hidden 21 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
anguskille 19 Apr, 2014 2nd β
with fennerz
with fennerz
Hidden 19 Apr, 2014 2nd rpt
Ed Booth 19 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 19 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
with phil64
with phil64
Adam Booth 19 Apr, 2014 2nd rpt
Jack_F 19 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
with remus
with remus
fennerz 19 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
with Angus Kille
with Angus Kille
phil64 ?Apr, 2014 2nd rpt
with tom livingstone
with tom livingstone
i_a_coops ??, 2014 Lead O/S Mono undercling! So hard!
Mono undercling! So hard!
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2014 Lead O/S
with Sam Underhill
with Sam Underhill
debsb ??, 2014 Lead O/S
with Andy Benson , Jon Morgan
with Andy Benson , Jon Morgan
Stefan_Morris 12 Oct, 2013 2nd
Ed morris 12 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S E4 into E3, with a hands off rest inbetween.
with stefan
E4 into E3, with a hands off rest inbetween.
with stefan
shoulders 30 Aug, 2013 TR O/S Wet in the pockets and the traverse back left after the detour on the right
with jon shewring, mikeshewring, sharpie
Wet in the pockets and the traverse back left after the detour on the right
with jon shewring, mikeshewring, sharpie
soph 26 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
with Helena Robinson
with Helena Robinson
Adam Booth 26 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Damp at the bottom which made the move left hard. Easier higher up. Great combo!
with Matty Rawlinson
Damp at the bottom which made the move left hard. Easier higher up. Great combo!
with Matty Rawlinson
steve_yo 24 Aug, 2013 Lead
Ricky Rocks 24 Aug, 2013 2nd
Ally Smith 24 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
with Aly
with Aly
Hidden 24 Aug, 2013 Lead β
Hidden 11 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 3 Aug, 2013 Lead RP
Dave Turnbull, BMC 14 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with Pete the Vet
with Pete the Vet
brices 13 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Brilliant, First E5?
Brilliant, First E5?
Keendan 15 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S Messy lead. Heavy rain but fairly sheltered. I got incredibly pumped very quickly by the peg. Climbed direct to the peg then right. Foot slipped and nearly fell on the traverse left. The rest of the route is absolutely awesome, and the juggy finish is thrilling!
with remus
Messy lead. Heavy rain but fairly sheltered. I got incredibly pumped very quickly by the peg. Climbed direct to the peg then right. Foot slipped and nearly fell on the traverse left. The rest of the route is absolutely awesome, and the juggy finish is thrilling!
with remus
Hidden 14 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden 2 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 19 May, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 20 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
mark20 20 Apr, 2013 2nd O/S
pipof747 16 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
david morse 30 Aug, 2011 Lead β Flash. Abseiled the line last year to clean kit, also had a look at the top thread before the send. Second route on the west wall...is it the best wall in the UK?
with lole
Flash. Abseiled the line last year to clean kit, also had a look at the top thread before the send. Second route on the west wall...is it the best wall in the UK?
with lole
datoon 29 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
with K
with K
thomasadixon 2 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Go around right version at the bottom of JAD. Really good climb!
with mwatson
Go around right version at the bottom of JAD. Really good climb!
with mwatson
redjerry ?Aug, 2011 TR O/S
Billg 3 Jul, 2011 2nd rpt
with Will Calvert
with Will Calvert
colesy 27 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S With Si T
With Si T
Luke Brooks 26 Apr, 2011 2nd
with John Orr
with John Orr
Pete Graham 25 Apr, 2011 2nd
with malx
with malx
dan gibson 24 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with richard lade
with richard lade
mwatson ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 Lead
feilx 19 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
phil64 ??, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Jul, 2009 2nd dog
Ricky Rocks 27 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S Tough start, leads into sustained pitch, fab climbing throughout.
Tough start, leads into sustained pitch, fab climbing throughout.
Hidden 24 May, 2009 Lead
morganator 26 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
with soph
with soph
Ian Parnell 25 Jul, 2008 2nd rpt
with Tim Emmett
with Tim Emmett
jfreeman 3 May, 2008 2nd
with Ben Freeman
with Ben Freeman
bfreeman 3 May, 2008 Lead O/S
with Jon Freeman
with Jon Freeman
Alex Mason 27 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S Excellent. First E5 (hard E4), was very aprehensive at first but once id arranged some gear at the start and come back to the deck it was steady enough to the top. F6c, not pumpy and more than adequate gear.
Excellent. First E5 (hard E4), was very aprehensive at first but once id arranged some gear at the start and come back to the deck it was steady enough to the top. F6c, not pumpy and more than adequate gear.
Ram MkiV 26 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S Prevaricated on scorch the earth's crux for a while. Great moves.
with Dan
Prevaricated on scorch the earth's crux for a while. Great moves.
with Dan
Hidden 16 Aug, 2007 Lead β
AlexRenshaw 26 Aug, 2006 2nd
keefe 26 Aug, 2006 Lead
with Tansy
with Tansy
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Kev Little ??, 2006 Lead O/S
Jason livesey ??, 2006 Lead dog
with dave
with dave
valecoastclimber 7 Jul, 2005 Lead O/S
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ??, 2005 2nd
with Stan Halstead
with Stan Halstead
Davros the Psyched ??, 2004 Lead O/S
pete johnson 31 Aug, 2002 Lead
with Lun
with Lun
Hidden 1 May, 2000 Lead O/S
Alan Cameron-Duff ??, 2000 Lead O/S
with Heather, Toby
with Heather, Toby
PaulTanton 5 Jul, 1998 Lead O/S
with Dave Taylor
with Dave Taylor
Pete Wimbush ?Jun, 1998 2nd
with Kev Little
with Kev Little
Greg Cunningham ?Aug, 1997 Lead β had lead JAD and STE a year or two before
with guy exley
had lead JAD and STE a year or two before
with guy exley
Hidden 24 May, 1997 Lead
Steve Crowe 1 Sep, 1996 2nd O/S
with karin
with karin
Hidden 26 Aug, 1994 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 1994 Lead O/S
Billg ?Jul, 1991 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby ??, 1991 Lead O/S Another contender for first E5. Soft at grade.
Another contender for first E5. Soft at grade.
whispering nic ?Aug, 1990 Lead
with Blaggy
with Blaggy
William Robertson ??, 1989 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden 7 Jul, 1987 -
Hidden 15 Jun, 1986 Lead
Steve Lewis 22 May, 1984 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle
with Clive Curle
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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 44
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 38
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set