Rockfax Description
The upper, thin blank wall of the Seaward Face is overcome by this airy, sweeping line located directly above the narrow strip of blue water at the bed of the zawn. Start by negotiating 'The Crevasse' and then traversing 7m to a stance in a small corner.
1) 5b, 22m. Traverse right, around the arete into another corner and then up a few metres, from where a rising traverse left, back around the arete and across the wall leads to a break. Climb the short corner above to a good belay ledge.
2) 5c, 30m. Traverse right from the belay to below a steep high-angled slab and climb this boldly to an easing at a left-trending shallow ramp-line. Follow this to the overhang above and move to its left end before working back right again above it to cracks that lead to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Deja Vu 50 metres E4 6a 3-star

One of the best harder grade routes in Cornwall; stylish climbing with sparse protection. First climbed by American legend "Hot" Henry Barber with Great Zawn and South West pioneer Frank Cannings. A pure on-sight ascent of great boldness and style.

The climb takes the distinctive black "slab", really a wall, in the centre of the wall between Zarathustra and The Dream, to the right of Green Cormorant Face.

Start by abseiling to the large ledge beneath Variety Show then make the scary leap across the chasm to the small ledge beneath Green Cormorant Face. Belay at its far right end.

1. 20metres. 5b. Move up right to a groove (also on The Dream). Climb left around the blunt arete and continue diagonally left to a short open-book corner, which leads to the belay at the top of pitch one of Green Cormorant Face.

2. 30 metres. 6a. Traverse right into the centre of a steep black slab/ wall, and climb directly and delicately to reach a slim ramp-line (also on The Dream) that runs up leftwards. Follow this then the deep slanting crack in the small overhang above; then move right along the line of a horizontal crack to take a weakness in the exposed wall above to a small stance. Belay here to get a good view of your second or continue up slabs and blocks to the top.

Henry Barber and Frank Cannings May/1974

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Best slab climbs of the UK, West Country Climbs, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E4 ticklist, Definitive *** West Cornwall

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Duncan Campbell 27 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Led pitch 2. Mega classic route and certainly one of the best routes I've done this year. The crevasse jump is bonkers. Thought pitch 2 was quite necky and not piss either! Made even better by the fact Frank Cannings was at the Cornish climbing meet and told us about doing the FA with Henry Barber who led to the ramp on dream/liberator with no runners - respect!
Led pitch 2. Mega classic route and certainly one of the best routes I've done this year. The crevasse jump is bonkers. Thought pitch 2 was quite necky and not piss either! Made even better by the fact Frank Cannings was at the Cornish climbing meet and told us about doing the FA with Henry Barber who led to the ramp on dream/liberator with no runners - respect!
beni ??, 2015 2nd
Hidden ??, 2015 -
Hidden ??, 2015 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2015 AltLd O/S Made all the more interesting due to having heard stories about the first ascent earlier that day from Frank Cannings
Made all the more interesting due to having heard stories about the first ascent earlier that day from Frank Cannings
markalmack 19 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S lead p1
with GAL
lead p1
with GAL
Dave Musgrove Jnr 19 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S Great fun
with ellis
Great fun
with ellis
ellis 19 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Marcus ??, 2011 -
tuftynick ??, 2008 -
jfletcher 6 Oct, 2007 Lead
feilx 29 Sep, 2007 2nd O/S
with Bern
with Bern
Hidden ?Sep, 2007 Lead O/S
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Jun, 2001 2nd
tuftynick ?Jun, 2001 Lead
Roget 20 Aug, 1999 Lead O/S
with jim
with jim
phardman ??, 1997 -
Hidden 7 Aug, 1996 Lead O/S
Glenn Sutcliffe ??, 1995 -
with keefe
with keefe
keefe ??, 1995 -
Chris Wright 18 Aug, 1991 Lead O/S
Hidden 7 Aug, 1990 Lead
andy gittins ??, 1990 -
keefe ??, 1990 -
Brian Wilderspin 9 Sep, 1988 AltLd
with Perric Crellin
with Perric Crellin
Mike Owen 20 Aug, 1987 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Billg 10 Aug, 1987 Lead O/S
with Keith Sharples
with Keith Sharples
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden 28 Sep, 1985 2nd O/S
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Hidden ??, 1980 -
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Hidden 30 Jun, 1978 AltLd
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