Rockfax Description
One of the UK's most illustrious sea-cliff challenges, following a spectacular line of flake-cracks up the lower portion of the Great Wall and finishing up the narrow central corner. The second pitch was for many years climbed with a peg for aid at 5b but this has now gone. Start below a small corner at the base of the left side of the wall.
1) 5a, 30m. Move steeply up the corner, which eases as it trends left to a triangular niche. Move right and take cracks to a rest below double overhangs. Undercut wildly left between the overhangs and continue up the wide crack to a stance at its top.
2) 6a, 12m. Climb the corner/groove above to its end before traversing rightwards to a stance at the base of a corner.
3) 5b, 20m. Climb the corner, which is technical and sustained in its lower half to an obvious exit on the right at its end. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
There is no longer a peg at the crux, in spite of various trolls on UKC forums,this has not been replaced by a bolt, the consensus seems to be that Pentire should remain bolt free. Adequate protection can be arranged to protect the crux many people think it is safer to run the first two pitches together.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, West Country Climbs, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), James' Summer Ticklist, CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings, The Seaside (Oh I Do Like To Be Beside), South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)

Feedback

UserDateNotes
barny 1982 Show βeta
βeta: Charles made a start then declined at the wide crack. Nice move at the flake to avoid barn door :-) Led the crux clean :-) :-) What a superb route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Charles made a start then declined at the wide crack. Nice move at the flake to avoid barn door :-) Led the crux clean :-) :-) What a superb route.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 15 Sep 2nd
Hidden 15 Sep Lead O/S
tom.wp6 25 Aug AltLd O/S Led 1st two pitches linked as one
Led 1st two pitches linked as one
dbottomley 25 Aug AltLd O/S in 2. lead 5b pitch
with tom.wp6
in 2. lead 5b pitch
with tom.wp6
Wil Treasure 24 Aug AltLd O/S Led the top pitch.
Led the top pitch.
Martin Bagshaw 24 Aug AltLd O/S Took a while to work out the boulder problem crux then Wil whipped up it with the first sequence he found! Awesome route though.
Took a while to work out the boulder problem crux then Wil whipped up it with the first sequence he found! Awesome route though.
Hidden 25 Jul Lead O/S
aiyer 21 Jul Lead dnf Couldn't trust my right foot on the smooth arch and felt a bit stuck. Just didn't fancy a fall on the brass nut.
Couldn't trust my right foot on the smooth arch and felt a bit stuck. Just didn't fancy a fall on the brass nut.
Hidden 14 Jul AltLd
tjmillen 14 Jul AltLd
with Dave
with Dave
Jess Carr 31 May Lead O/S Wow! This has been my ambition for a while. First E4 :)
with Rich Pollard
Wow! This has been my ambition for a while. First E4 :)
with Rich Pollard
simon cox 18 Mar -
simon cox 18 Mar -
simon cox ?? -
simon cox ?? -
simon cox ?? -
mrblack ?? -
Hidden 30 Aug, 2018 AltLd rpt
Tom Seccombe 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
with will hornby
with will hornby
tjmillen ??, 2018 Lead
with Jenny
with Jenny
Chris_barr 1 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S P 1+2 together as suggested in Littlejohn's SW guide. Deffo the safest way of doing this. Pretty bold with the gear that I had. Amazing climbing and nice to have finally found the time to get it done. Will be back for Darkinbad.
with Jo
P 1+2 together as suggested in Littlejohn's SW guide. Deffo the safest way of doing this. Pretty bold with the gear that I had. Amazing climbing and nice to have finally found the time to get it done. Will be back for Darkinbad.
with Jo
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 25 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
with Ed Bulman
with Ed Bulman
Jo Stadden 1 Aug, 2017 2nd
with Chris Barr
with Chris Barr
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 15 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Led both pitches and ran the first two together which made sense. A misty, drizzly day with on/off rain which we nearly sacked off... thought the crux move was ok and with gear by your waist and lots backing it up. Final pitch was good too but a bit slippy on the feet which made it precarious. Cracking line!
with Roisin
Led both pitches and ran the first two together which made sense. A misty, drizzly day with on/off rain which we nearly sacked off... thought the crux move was ok and with gear by your waist and lots backing it up. Final pitch was good too but a bit slippy on the feet which made it precarious. Cracking line!
with Roisin
Katekeltie 8 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Duncan led the first pitch, spicy move where old pegs were even to second as falling off would mean a swing out onto the face.
Duncan led the first pitch, spicy move where old pegs were even to second as falling off would mean a swing out onto the face.
Duncan Campbell 8 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Led p1 + 2 in a oner which I think is most logical. Was warned not to do this as a warm up for darkinbad but couldn't resist two extreme rock ticks in a day and Kate wanted to do it also. Found the crux hard and it keeps coming with easier but insecure and still bold climbing until you clip an old peg and then head to the belay. As others have said feels weirdly bold despite not being particularly so. Pitch 2 is grand!
Led p1 + 2 in a oner which I think is most logical. Was warned not to do this as a warm up for darkinbad but couldn't resist two extreme rock ticks in a day and Kate wanted to do it also. Found the crux hard and it keeps coming with easier but insecure and still bold climbing until you clip an old peg and then head to the belay. As others have said feels weirdly bold despite not being particularly so. Pitch 2 is grand!
m.powell02 9 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S Spectacular!
Spectacular!
Hidden 27 May, 2017 2nd O/S
JendeHoxar 14 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
The Grist 14 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Fantastic route. Led first two pitches together. Found crux OK after figuring it out. Not a pumpy route at all. Also led top pitch.
Fantastic route. Led first two pitches together. Found crux OK after figuring it out. Not a pumpy route at all. Also led top pitch.
Flavio 14 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S So cool! Surely it was a better route with a pt or two as it would make it a far more balanced and consistent like Carnage at Malham.
So cool! Surely it was a better route with a pt or two as it would make it a far more balanced and consistent like Carnage at Malham.
Ramon Marin 12 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S A life changing experience. complete smegfest, i found the crux desperate, but did it at the end. Loads of gear before the crux, 4 really good RPs, one really good wire 3 and a decent wire 2
with Tom le fanu
A life changing experience. complete smegfest, i found the crux desperate, but did it at the end. Loads of gear before the crux, 4 really good RPs, one really good wire 3 and a decent wire 2
with Tom le fanu
Paul Baller 6 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with Julian Greaves
with Julian Greaves
beni 14 Jul, 2016 Lead β
duncan 9 Jul, 2016 AltLd rpt Free at last!
with Fiend
Free at last!
with Fiend
alice fuller ?Jul, 2016 2nd O/S Beni lead the lot brilliantly .Great flakes to the crux,which isn't difficult to read when Adrian and Ian were making helpful encouraging noises from below.I would have frozen without the kind offer from Adrian to steal Ians' lovely warm rab coat:).Thank you guys.
with beni
Beni lead the lot brilliantly .Great flakes to the crux,which isn't difficult to read when Adrian and Ian were making helpful encouraging noises from below.I would have frozen without the kind offer from Adrian to steal Ians' lovely warm rab coat:).Thank you guys.
with beni
Nik Jennings 17 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Ellis Bird ?May, 2016 Lead O/S
LRob ?Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
redjerry 28 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
with Robert Duran
with Robert Duran
datoon 18 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
mattnuttall 18 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead p1
with datoon
Lead p1
with datoon
Ed Babs 2 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S P2. Solid lead from Alex on P1.
with AlexD
P2. Solid lead from Alex on P1.
with AlexD
AlexD 2 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Led 1&2 together. Started celebrating a little too soon after making the crux as there were still some very precarious feeling moves to make up to the corner with the gear even further below now!
with Ed Babs
Led 1&2 together. Started celebrating a little too soon after making the crux as there were still some very precarious feeling moves to make up to the corner with the gear even further below now!
with Ed Babs
papashango 19 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S seconded the whole of the first pitch up to the darkinbad belay. a gift at e4, one 6a move and easy climbing apart from that. led darkinbad P1, one fall, incredible route, just couldn't quite keep it together after the crux. followed P2 which was very strenuous. fantastic day.
seconded the whole of the first pitch up to the darkinbad belay. a gift at e4, one 6a move and easy climbing apart from that. led darkinbad P1, one fall, incredible route, just couldn't quite keep it together after the crux. followed P2 which was very strenuous. fantastic day.
jfane 9 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
hamer89 ?Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Committing move around the broken peg! Left a massive friend in the flake that got stuck. Anyone got it out yet?
Committing move around the broken peg! Left a massive friend in the flake that got stuck. Anyone got it out yet?
dohart 21 Jun, 2015 2nd dog Incredible route. Couldn't do the crux moves.
with stu bradbury
Incredible route. Couldn't do the crux moves.
with stu bradbury
ferdia 19 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Hertha Taverner-Wood, burto
with Hertha Taverner-Wood, burto
burto 19 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
with ferdia, hertha
with ferdia, hertha
quiffhanger 12 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S 1st pitch all the way to the belay shared with Darkinbad - bit of drag as ropes ended up behind the flakes but not terminal. Quite the adventure on a wild day. Tough and weird crux that, although safe in retrospect, felt pretty bold & spooky. Def E4 6a despite mostly VS climbing!
with Rachel
1st pitch all the way to the belay shared with Darkinbad - bit of drag as ropes ended up behind the flakes but not terminal. Quite the adventure on a wild day. Tough and weird crux that, although safe in retrospect, felt pretty bold & spooky. Def E4 6a despite mostly VS climbing!
with Rachel
adi bryant 9 Apr, 2015 Lead dnf Got spooked on the second pitch and didn't commit to the move until I was too pumped. . Still really chuffed about climbing at this place though.
with Tim
Got spooked on the second pitch and didn't commit to the move until I was too pumped. . Still really chuffed about climbing at this place though.
with Tim
Bristoldave 13 Mar, 2015 AltLd rpt Led p3 this time
with Jack
Led p3 this time
with Jack
Jackislav 13 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S Led 1&2 together then lead crux pitch. Absolutely fantastic climbing on stunning rock! Bold moves on the crux but seemed pretty safe chuffed with the onsight :)
Led 1&2 together then lead crux pitch. Absolutely fantastic climbing on stunning rock! Bold moves on the crux but seemed pretty safe chuffed with the onsight :)
Hidden ??, 2015 -
Hidden ??, 2015 -
Jacob Phillips ??, 2015 Lead
JBO 20 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Felt very bold leaving the belay on the crux pitch, didn't enjoy committing at all!
Felt very bold leaving the belay on the crux pitch, didn't enjoy committing at all!
Hidden ?Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
bigie bob 3 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
markalmack 28 May, 2014 AltLd O/S lead p2. Jimmy decided to belay a bit higher on p1, meaning a fall from the crux would be straight onto the belay. It didn't feel like soft E4 for me. scary
with james marjot
lead p2. Jimmy decided to belay a bit higher on p1, meaning a fall from the crux would be straight onto the belay. It didn't feel like soft E4 for me. scary
with james marjot
Hidden 19 May, 2014 Lead dnf
Dan-Cheetham ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Hidden ??, 2014 AltLd O/S
Neil ??, 2014 Lead O/S
alexjz 19 Aug, 2013 AltLd dnf Led the first pitch, amazing! Took my time to pass the roof but felt great. Rufus had a few goes at the crux but never committed so we backed off. Must return to complete it
with Rufus Lusk
Led the first pitch, amazing! Took my time to pass the roof but felt great. Rufus had a few goes at the crux but never committed so we backed off. Must return to complete it
with Rufus Lusk
bigrob 19 Jun, 2013 Lead pitch one only
with joel perkins
pitch one only
with joel perkins
Joel Perkin 19 Jun, 2013 2nd dnf Pitch 1 only. Still an excellent pitch.
with Big Rob
Pitch 1 only. Still an excellent pitch.
with Big Rob
Russell Blackaller 2 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S Fantastic route on a big intimidating face. Technical climbing through the crux and glad I was on a second for that section. Excellent adventure!
Fantastic route on a big intimidating face. Technical climbing through the crux and glad I was on a second for that section. Excellent adventure!
Ed morris 25 May, 2013 Lead O/S Absolutely incredible, led both pitches, the crux requires a significant amount of commitment. I don't think its a soft E4 at all, technically and mentally hard!
with Colin
Absolutely incredible, led both pitches, the crux requires a significant amount of commitment. I don't think its a soft E4 at all, technically and mentally hard!
with Colin
Bristoldave 23 May, 2013 AltLd O/S Led p 1&2 as one.
Led p 1&2 as one.
Dale Turrell 23 May, 2013 AltLd O/S Led 3rd pitch.
Led 3rd pitch.
Dave Turnbull, BMC 18 May, 2013 AltLd rpt Led top pitch.
with Jon Redmond
Led top pitch.
with Jon Redmond
andi turner 18 May, 2013 - We'll good. Probably 5c. Crux is a bit worrying but nothing too nasty. On international meet.
with pertu from finland
We'll good. Probably 5c. Crux is a bit worrying but nothing too nasty. On international meet.
with pertu from finland
Hidden 14 May, 2013 AltLd
bunn.aroundthebloc 13 May, 2013 AltLd O/S E4 5c? Done in 2 pitches. Just belay below the top of the big flake and then the flake is available for bomber gear. I dont know why this is reputably bold. Adequate protection on the crux, a delicate traverse and a super protected corner crack.
with Alex Orrrrrrr - Green giant
E4 5c? Done in 2 pitches. Just belay below the top of the big flake and then the flake is available for bomber gear. I dont know why this is reputably bold. Adequate protection on the crux, a delicate traverse and a super protected corner crack.
with Alex Orrrrrrr - Green giant
mike lawrence? 6 May, 2013 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2013 Lead O/S
kingholmesy ??, 2013 AltLd O/S Russ belayed below the double overhang, and I then led through to the top. Low in the grade but bold.
Russ belayed below the double overhang, and I then led through to the top. Low in the grade but bold.
Justin T 28 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
with Cusco
with Cusco
bigrob 22 Jul, 2012 AltLd dnf me pitch 1 mike backed off pitch 2 due to some head games, abbed of will be back!!
with Mike W
me pitch 1 mike backed off pitch 2 due to some head games, abbed of will be back!!
with Mike W
Dan Arkle ??, 2012 Lead
Hidden ??, 2012 Lead O/S
Stone Idle ??, 2012 -
soph ?Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Helena Robinson
with Helena Robinson
Hidden 26 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
Pippa 3 Jul, 2011 Lead dnf first pitch only, backed off crux, nasty end
first pitch only, backed off crux, nasty end
datoon 31 May, 2011 AltLd O/S
with K
with K
khawk 31 May, 2011 AltLd O/S
with datoon
with datoon
Fran S8 29 Apr, 2011 2nd Second 1st/2nd pitch, lead 3rd pitch.
Second 1st/2nd pitch, lead 3rd pitch.
GeoffG ??, 2011 -
Steve Crowe ??, 2011 AltLd O/S It is best to climb P1 + P2 in one run out to avoid the risk of a factor two fall onto the belay.
with karin
It is best to climb P1 + P2 in one run out to avoid the risk of a factor two fall onto the belay.
with karin
Marcus ??, 2011 -
debsb ??, 2011 Lead
with Glenda Huxter
with Glenda Huxter
Ally Smith 13 Nov, 2010 Lead RP Aid point (hand placed pecker) to place nut, then free. Mingingly damp.
Aid point (hand placed pecker) to place nut, then free. Mingingly damp.
pezzerrr 13 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
Chad123 12 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Just to make things a bit different Sam lead to the overhang of the "wild underclings" and then I did a long pitch from there to the top. Awesome climbing with quality moves all the way and definite E4, I had an interesting cluster of RPs around the old pegs but none were very good. Only one 6a move but you wouldn't want to fall off it and lots of delicate 5b above that followed by an excellent layback pitch to finish....super classic the whole way....
Just to make things a bit different Sam lead to the overhang of the "wild underclings" and then I did a long pitch from there to the top. Awesome climbing with quality moves all the way and definite E4, I had an interesting cluster of RPs around the old pegs but none were very good. Only one 6a move but you wouldn't want to fall off it and lots of delicate 5b above that followed by an excellent layback pitch to finish....super classic the whole way....
sgl 12 Aug, 2010 AltLd
with chad
with chad
feilx 7 Aug, 2010 Lead rpt
Toby Dunn 25 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S now sans peg. E4 6a.
with Andy Reeve
now sans peg. E4 6a.
with Andy Reeve
Brown 18 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Ben Lepesant
with Ben Lepesant
Rowansb 17 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Rob gibson
with Rob gibson
Misha 4 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S Were climbing at Lower Sharpnose on the Saturday so couldn't resist the temptation to have a look at Pentire on the Sunday. The Great Wall looked awesome from the headland so we decided to have a closer look despite the on/off drizzle. The rock was damp in places but not too bad so we figured we could at least do the first pitch and ab off. I thought Phil was going to go for the crux pitch but he wasn't keen. I had no idea if I'd be able to manage it but that's the spirit of adventure. Solid lead from Phil on P1, which proved to be the most worrying second I've done in a long time as the jumble of massive blocks in the middle of the pitch looked like they were about to collapse like dominoes and then the massive hanging flake would follow. The crux looked deceptively easy but proved to be quite tough and took me a few goes to commit due to the absence of decent gear. There are no longer any pegs left on the crux, so it's pretty much obligatory 6a. Managed to get a 0.75 DMM micronut behind a downward pointing peg stub but that would surely have ripped in the event of a fall. Might be possible to aid on it though? The next piece down is a #3 nut which is ok but is more or less level with the belay, so any fall would be approaching F2. Fortunately it's possible to reverse the first few moves of the crux sequence and work it out gradually, but ultimately it still requires commitment. E4 6a? Didn't quite get the left foot as well positioned as it should have been so ended up going for a heart-in-mouth snatch for the good hold. The next few moves up the ramp proved a lot easier once I had stopped panicking and had spotted all the handholds. There was also a #4 BD microstopper which was probably ok and certainly very welcome. The open corner finish involved excellent finger locks and was very enjoyable, probably E2 5b in its own right, or at least it felt that way. An unforgettable experience.
Were climbing at Lower Sharpnose on the Saturday so couldn't resist the temptation to have a look at Pentire on the Sunday. The Great Wall looked awesome from the headland so we decided to have a closer look despite the on/off drizzle. The rock was damp in places but not too bad so we figured we could at least do the first pitch and ab off. I thought Phil was going to go for the crux pitch but he wasn't keen. I had no idea if I'd be able to manage it but that's the spirit of adventure. Solid lead from Phil on P1, which proved to be the most worrying second I've done in a long time as the jumble of massive blocks in the middle of the pitch looked like they were about to collapse like dominoes and then the massive hanging flake would follow. The crux looked deceptively easy but proved to be quite tough and took me a few goes to commit due to the absence of decent gear. There are no longer any pegs left on the crux, so it's pretty much obligatory 6a. Managed to get a 0.75 DMM micronut behind a downward pointing peg stub but that would surely have ripped in the event of a fall. Might be possible to aid on it though? The next piece down is a #3 nut which is ok but is more or less level with the belay, so any fall would be approaching F2. Fortunately it's possible to reverse the first few moves of the crux sequence and work it out gradually, but ultimately it still requires commitment. E4 6a? Didn't quite get the left foot as well positioned as it should have been so ended up going for a heart-in-mouth snatch for the good hold. The next few moves up the ramp proved a lot easier once I had stopped panicking and had spotted all the handholds. There was also a #4 BD microstopper which was probably ok and certainly very welcome. The open corner finish involved excellent finger locks and was very enjoyable, probably E2 5b in its own right, or at least it felt that way. An unforgettable experience.
philhilo 4 Jul, 2010 AltLd Intimidating and impressive - you know this is going to be an adventure just looking at it! Big sea and drizzle. Led first pitch, scary. Lots of worrying blocks and the traverse...led a few E4 6as but this was way scarier! Belay on detached flake, worrying. Misha did top pitch. No peg for aid or pro. One small wire at belayers head height between crux and belay - and a wire wedged behind peg stub!Very good effort by Misha to get it clean, glad he did!Rest of pitch superb. Took 3 attempts to get over the crux. Awesome awesome route but E4 6a now.
with Misha
Intimidating and impressive - you know this is going to be an adventure just looking at it! Big sea and drizzle. Led first pitch, scary. Lots of worrying blocks and the traverse...led a few E4 6as but this was way scarier! Belay on detached flake, worrying. Misha did top pitch. No peg for aid or pro. One small wire at belayers head height between crux and belay - and a wire wedged behind peg stub!Very good effort by Misha to get it clean, glad he did!Rest of pitch superb. Took 3 attempts to get over the crux. Awesome awesome route but E4 6a now.
with Misha
Hidden ?Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 10 Apr, 2010 Lead rpt
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2010 AltLd O/S Definitely climb P1 + 2 together, avoids taking a factor two fall onto the belay.
with Sam Underhill
Definitely climb P1 + 2 together, avoids taking a factor two fall onto the belay.
with Sam Underhill
chris j 18 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S Ben lead first pitch to after crux groove - probably a better choice than belaying below and having a possible factor 2 onto the belay. Ok belay at base of final corner. Probably E3 done this way.
with Ben Bradford
Ben lead first pitch to after crux groove - probably a better choice than belaying below and having a possible factor 2 onto the belay. Ok belay at base of final corner. Probably E3 done this way.
with Ben Bradford
Hidden 24 Jun, 2009 Lead rpt
Ged Desforges 21 Jun, 2009 - not sure if this is recent, but there's no pegs on the 2nd pitch until past the crux. It is now obligatory free at 6a, with no gear apart from the top piece of the belay (a small but good wire). If you fell off you'd be straight onto the belay. There's no gear until the peg after you step right, which can be backed up with a very small cam. Probably E4 6a in this state?
not sure if this is recent, but there's no pegs on the 2nd pitch until past the crux. It is now obligatory free at 6a, with no gear apart from the top piece of the belay (a small but good wire). If you fell off you'd be straight onto the belay. There's no gear until the peg after you step right, which can be backed up with a very small cam. Probably E4 6a in this state?
Hidden 20 Jun, 2009 AltLd dnf
The Jazz Butcher 19 Jul, 2008 AltLd rpt
with Rimon Than
with Rimon Than
accynez 30 Jun, 2008 AltLd O/S Gnarly
with Keith
Gnarly
with Keith
climbergg 28 Jun, 2008 AltLd
with Tim M
with Tim M
Tim M 28 Jun, 2008 AltLd free - both pegs in pretty poor condition
free - both pegs in pretty poor condition
Hidden 6 May, 2008 AltLd O/S
steepstuff ?May, 2008 2nd
Tom Heslam ??, 2008 2nd O/S
with Ed Heslam
with Ed Heslam
Hidden 4 Aug, 2007 2nd
Hidden 9 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
The Jazz Butcher 8 Jun, 2007 AltLd O/S
Marti999 8 Jun, 2007 AltLd
DDDD ??, 2007 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 26 Aug, 2006 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
with helen gibson
Ricky Rocks ?Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S
Alex Mason 23 Jul, 2006 Lead scary shit, every one else went for ice cream and snatch on the beach while we were on this. couldnt be arsed to do the undercut flake on 1st pitch belayed here, steve led through , met him before crux, he led off i came to second and pulled on the suspension pegs (aid), i was consumed by the irrational fear. incredibly bad effort al.
scary shit, every one else went for ice cream and snatch on the beach while we were on this. couldnt be arsed to do the undercut flake on 1st pitch belayed here, steve led through , met him before crux, he led off i came to second and pulled on the suspension pegs (aid), i was consumed by the irrational fear. incredibly bad effort al.
Hidden 23 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
Ram MkiV 23 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S Free
with Alex Mason
Free
with Alex Mason
Hidden 30 Jun, 2006 AltLd dnf
beanfingers 18 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S lead first pitch with the awesome laybacking on the massive flake. one of the most exciting moves ever.
with felix
lead first pitch with the awesome laybacking on the massive flake. one of the most exciting moves ever.
with felix
feilx 18 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
with Crazy Tom
with Crazy Tom
Hidden 18 Jun, 2006 Lead dnf
Hidden 18 Jun, 2006 2nd dnf
jimdanson 3 Jun, 2006 2nd O/S Climbed the crux free, using the peg for protection.
with Mike Adams
Climbed the crux free, using the peg for protection.
with Mike Adams
Hidden ?Jun, 2006 AltLd
Hidden ?Apr, 2006 AltLd
nickdonohue ??, 2006 AltLd Not sure of date, but in the old days when the peg still existed! Didn't use it for aid / rest tho, but did 'boulder' out crux move a few times before doing.
with Mike Soldner
Not sure of date, but in the old days when the peg still existed! Didn't use it for aid / rest tho, but did 'boulder' out crux move a few times before doing.
with Mike Soldner
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Mark Kemball ?Jun, 2005 Lead Used the peg!
with Stu Bradbury
Used the peg!
with Stu Bradbury
pauldrew 31 May, 2005 AltLd
pete johnson 31 May, 2005 AltLd O/S
The Reaper 26 Mar, 2005 AltLd rpt First significant lead by daughter Alex who rope gunned up the second pitch. Only E2 though because the peg was still in (just) and we used it. Fantastic afternoon out on a family holiday.
First significant lead by daughter Alex who rope gunned up the second pitch. Only E2 though because the peg was still in (just) and we used it. Fantastic afternoon out on a family holiday.
tuftynick ??, 2005 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ ??, 2005 AltLd RP
with Adam Mulholland
with Adam Mulholland
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 -
Hidden ?Oct, 2004 AltLd O/S
The Reaper 28 Jun, 2004 Lead dnf First pitch only, wasn't happy with the belay or the look of the second pitch straight off it. Ace pitch in its own right though.
First pitch only, wasn't happy with the belay or the look of the second pitch straight off it. Ace pitch in its own right though.
Samuel Palmer 13 Jul, 2003 2nd
with Luke
with Luke
Simon cook ?Sep, 2002 Lead O/S With Clatke Alston
With Clatke Alston
spidermonkey ??, 2002 Lead O/S One of the best climbs ever ever! Incredible place incredible rock architecture incredible climbing. Careful with rope drag around the double overhang (I messed up there and felt like I was pulling a truck up behind me!). There is something about the Great Wall that is truly awesome. Perfect trip finished with watching dolphins off the point at sunset
One of the best climbs ever ever! Incredible place incredible rock architecture incredible climbing. Careful with rope drag around the double overhang (I messed up there and felt like I was pulling a truck up behind me!). There is something about the Great Wall that is truly awesome. Perfect trip finished with watching dolphins off the point at sunset
Steve Claw ??, 2001 -
Billg 17 Jun, 2000 AltLd I led 6a pitch - no aid point
with Roy Ruddle
I led 6a pitch - no aid point
with Roy Ruddle
Roget 7 Jun, 2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 2000 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13 May, 2000 Lead
ecowaller ??, 2000 Lead O/S
with Andy Reid
with Andy Reid
goi.ashmore 12 Jun, 1999 Lead O/S
with Iain Fisher
with Iain Fisher
phardman ??, 1997 AltLd
Greg Cunningham ??, 1997 AltLd
Hidden ?Aug, 1996 AltLd dog
bazza ??, 1996 -
ellis ??, 1996 AltLd O/S Led P2 free, first E3?
Led P2 free, first E3?
Dave Musgrove Jnr 4 Jul, 1995 Lead so good
with Emmy McCowen
so good
with Emmy McCowen
frost ?May, 1995 AltLd
pauldrew ??, 1995 AltLd Aided crux but no peg, used poor micro wire.
with Dave Barlow
Aided crux but no peg, used poor micro wire.
with Dave Barlow
Hidden ??, 1995 AltLd O/S
whispering nic ?Aug, 1994 Lead
with Kat
with Kat
Derek Ryden ?Aug, 1994 AltLd O/S Seconded crux pitch without using peg.
with Jim Cheshire
Seconded crux pitch without using peg.
with Jim Cheshire
mattnuttall 20 Jul, 1994 Lead O/S was given E2 - felt stiff at that!
with Alan Holden
was given E2 - felt stiff at that!
with Alan Holden
crossleysm ??, 1994 Lead O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 7 Aug, 1993 AltLd Did E2 version with the old peg.
with Phil Baker
Did E2 version with the old peg.
with Phil Baker
Hidden 31 Jul, 1993 AltLd O/S
kylo-342 ?Apr, 1992 2nd dnf aid peg had rusted away so we came down after the first pitch
with Jason M
aid peg had rusted away so we came down after the first pitch
with Jason M
Matt Clifton ??, 1992 Lead dog a much harder move than any on darkinbad or black magic
with Helen
a much harder move than any on darkinbad or black magic
with Helen
rogerskews 28 May, 1991 - I was hooked when I saw the photo of Frank Cannings in SW Climbs. But big fist jam up behind the flake allows minimal laybacking; crux harrowing; traverse right breathtaking and top groove exhausting. Utterly fabulous route with a great name from Gus Morton.
with Bryn Roberts
I was hooked when I saw the photo of Frank Cannings in SW Climbs. But big fist jam up behind the flake allows minimal laybacking; crux harrowing; traverse right breathtaking and top groove exhausting. Utterly fabulous route with a great name from Gus Morton.
with Bryn Roberts
Glenn Sutcliffe 26 May, 1991 -
with keefe
with keefe
keefe 26 May, 1991 -
steveb2006 3 Sep, 1990 Lead dog Led main pitch but have to use a point of aid.
with Simon Mee
Led main pitch but have to use a point of aid.
with Simon Mee
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
UKB Shark 12 Sep, 1989 AltLd Led Crux
Led Crux
Bruce Kerr 19 Jul, 1989 AltLd
with Keith Turton
with Keith Turton
Brian Wilderspin 7 May, 1989 AltLd O/S Used 1 peg for aid on pitch 2
Used 1 peg for aid on pitch 2
anthony moore ?Jul, 1988 AltLd awesome route- climbed it with a guy called john o neil whom i had met on lundy, led the 1st pitch, then followed- at that time pitch 2 was i1 pt of aid and 5b
with john o neill
awesome route- climbed it with a guy called john o neil whom i had met on lundy, led the 1st pitch, then followed- at that time pitch 2 was i1 pt of aid and 5b
with john o neill
Hidden ?May, 1988 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden 23 Jul, 1986 Lead O/S
Hidden ?May, 1986 Lead O/S
charlesmfrench ??, 1986 AltLd O/S
with Ian Milne
with Ian Milne
Hidden ?May, 1985 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1985 AltLd O/S
Dave Garnett 23 Aug, 1984 Lead O/S
with Jane Garnett
with Jane Garnett
barny ??, 1982 Lead O/S Charles made a start then declined at the wide crack. Nice move at the flake to avoid barn door :-) Led the crux clean :-) :-) What a superb route.
with Charles
Charles made a start then declined at the wide crack. Nice move at the flake to avoid barn door :-) Led the crux clean :-) :-) What a superb route.
with Charles
Chris Terrey 31 May, 1981 AltLd
with Simon Fenwick
with Simon Fenwick
cenotaphcorner 8 Apr, 1980 AltLd O/S used peg on crux
with David Stainthorpe
used peg on crux
with David Stainthorpe
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Mike Owen 2 Aug, 1979 Lead O/S
with Keith Jones
with Keith Jones
duncan ?Aug, 1979 AltLd O/S 1 pt aid
with Simon Reed
1 pt aid
with Simon Reed
Hidden 29 Apr, 1978 Lead
Hidden ??, 1977 Lead dog
petemeads ?Aug, 1976 Lead O/S Found the second pitch plastered with chalk but managed to climb it free. Pete Livesey turns out to have made the first free ascent the previous week so this was probably the second.
with John Allen
Found the second pitch plastered with chalk but managed to climb it free. Pete Livesey turns out to have made the first free ascent the previous week so this was probably the second.
with John Allen
Hidden ??, 1975 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1973 -
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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 19
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 29
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set