Rockfax Description
One of the region's greatest climbs that wends its way up the sensational arete dividing the Seaward and West Faces of the Great Zawn. The climbing is at the very upper limit of the grade. Start by negotiating 'The Crevasse' and then traversing right 7m to a stance in a small corner.
1) 5a, 9m. Traverse right, around the arete into another corner and ascend this to a stance just above.
2) 6a, 23m. Climb up the corner and then swing right at a horizontal break to below a right-leaning groove. Make some tricky moves up its right wall to below an overhang and pull leftwards through it, hard, to a thin crack in the wall above it. Follow the shallow ramp-line up the wall to a break, and traverse this right,past a peg, to a hanging stance on a foot-ledge just around the arete. The belays are hard to find but there is a good large cam in the crack above the stance.
3) 5c, 32m. Climb the steep cracks and narrowing small corner above until a sensational traverse right, below an overhang, can be made into the base of a long corner and thin crack. Follow this and the continuation groove to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Very good routes in the UK, West Country Climbs, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics, The Five Best E3 Routes in the UK?, The 30 best E3 routes in the UK?, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings, The Lifetime List, James' Summer Ticklist, Definitive *** West Cornwall, Showcase Britain & Ireland

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 27 Jul Lead O/S
Dan Arkle 25 May Lead Placed wire blindly over crux roof, pulled over and was so horrified by how bad it was that I sat on the rope, placed a better wire then had a proper go. Slightly disappointed, but happy not to take that fall.
Placed wire blindly over crux roof, pulled over and was so horrified by how bad it was that I sat on the rope, placed a better wire then had a proper go. Slightly disappointed, but happy not to take that fall.
mrblack ?? -
harry_lewis 30 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Led P1 and P2. Wild route, not as hard as reputation/other comments suggest
Led P1 and P2. Wild route, not as hard as reputation/other comments suggest
shaunhumphreys 30 Aug, 2018 Lead Faffage!! not that hard but i got the fear and after doing the crux (and then reversing it about 5 times) after seeing a gearless looking headwall. After much faff i handed over to harry, pretty shocking really and hard work with all the reversing. Then foolishly set off seconding the crux pitch in the belay jacket which coincided with the sun coming out about 2 minutes later so was feeling extremely hot and bothered by end of that pitch, then had an annoying foot slip on the lichen whilst leading the last pitch so took a little whip, last pitch felt steady but loooong in the haggard state, death grass finish was the icing on the fear cake. Top adventure, total shambles!
Faffage!! not that hard but i got the fear and after doing the crux (and then reversing it about 5 times) after seeing a gearless looking headwall. After much faff i handed over to harry, pretty shocking really and hard work with all the reversing. Then foolishly set off seconding the crux pitch in the belay jacket which coincided with the sun coming out about 2 minutes later so was feeling extremely hot and bothered by end of that pitch, then had an annoying foot slip on the lichen whilst leading the last pitch so took a little whip, last pitch felt steady but loooong in the haggard state, death grass finish was the icing on the fear cake. Top adventure, total shambles!
masa-alpin 18 May, 2017 AltLd I lead P1 (from abseiling from the west), P3 (Liberator) and Diego did P2. Diego took a fall and afterwards somehow escaped to the right to join Liberator (and so it wasn't a proper tick). P1 traverse was the most terrifying slimy pitch I have ever lead at the grade (5a) above the rough sea with some spashes despite at the dead low tide.
with Diego Dellai
I lead P1 (from abseiling from the west), P3 (Liberator) and Diego did P2. Diego took a fall and afterwards somehow escaped to the right to join Liberator (and so it wasn't a proper tick). P1 traverse was the most terrifying slimy pitch I have ever lead at the grade (5a) above the rough sea with some spashes despite at the dead low tide.
with Diego Dellai
Flavio 18 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S This one took a while.. Currently you can't see the granite through the flying sea rat poo (no exaggeration), but once past the starting traverse - if you don't manage to vomit all over it - the rock is pristine and just amazing to climb.
This one took a while.. Currently you can't see the granite through the flying sea rat poo (no exaggeration), but once past the starting traverse - if you don't manage to vomit all over it - the rock is pristine and just amazing to climb.
JendeHoxar 18 Apr, 2017 AltLd
with Flavio
with Flavio
Hidden ?Sep, 2016 AltLd dog
Hidden 6 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
AlexD 3 Aug, 2015 AltLd β 6 hour ascent! Only led 1st 7m pitch in the end. Started up 3rd pitch but exhaustion and exposure were getting to me so I retreated and Ed took over. Great climbing but an unnerving setting, especially not being able to see your partner a lot of the time.
with Ed Babs
6 hour ascent! Only led 1st 7m pitch in the end. Started up 3rd pitch but exhaustion and exposure were getting to me so I retreated and Ed took over. Great climbing but an unnerving setting, especially not being able to see your partner a lot of the time.
with Ed Babs
Ed Babs 3 Aug, 2015 AltLd G/U Just too tired to pull through the roof after four days on. Pulled ropes, rested and eventually worked out a more techy and less streny way to do it. Really enjoyable. P2&3, as Alex was over-zawned by the last pitch.
with AlexD
Just too tired to pull through the roof after four days on. Pulled ropes, rested and eventually worked out a more techy and less streny way to do it. Really enjoyable. P2&3, as Alex was over-zawned by the last pitch.
with AlexD
ferdia 2 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S intimidating and damp crossing the crevasse but luckily a breeze got up meaning great conditions for the crux pitch. really enjoyed it, not as hard as the reputation suggests, and also nowhere near as hard as kafoozalem (thank god). a great journey into and out of a stunning zawn.
intimidating and damp crossing the crevasse but luckily a breeze got up meaning great conditions for the crux pitch. really enjoyed it, not as hard as the reputation suggests, and also nowhere near as hard as kafoozalem (thank god). a great journey into and out of a stunning zawn.
Andy Moles 2 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
with ferdia
with ferdia
Alex moore 17 Jul, 2015 Lead lead 2 and 3, after a fully fledged epic on first attempt. E3?!
lead 2 and 3, after a fully fledged epic on first attempt. E3?!
Jackislav 17 Jul, 2015 AltLd Mega epic on trying to lead crux pitch on first attempt as the rain came in hard! horrible retreat into zawn ensued. Back to the van for a cheese sandwich and a can of man-up then followed Alex up 2/3
Mega epic on trying to lead crux pitch on first attempt as the rain came in hard! horrible retreat into zawn ensued. Back to the van for a cheese sandwich and a can of man-up then followed Alex up 2/3
soph 27 Jun, 2015 AltLd
with Michaela Tracy
with Michaela Tracy
craig.potter ?Jun, 2015 2nd O/S
kingholmesy ??, 2015 AltLd O/S Led P2 & P3. A great route. Worth doing for the crevasse jump alone.
with Colin
Led P2 & P3. A great route. Worth doing for the crevasse jump alone.
with Colin
Misha 7 Sep, 2014 AltLd
with eszter
with eszter
Hidden 7 Sep, 2014 AltLd
JBO 22 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Absolutely amazing climbing, but that crux is hard! I led the middle pitch and barely held on, I've had an easier time on E5s. Stunning route all the he same, much more committing that the grade would suggest.
Absolutely amazing climbing, but that crux is hard! I led the middle pitch and barely held on, I've had an easier time on E5s. Stunning route all the he same, much more committing that the grade would suggest.
markalmack 18 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S lead p1&2. got dark on p3. was fully shitting it. may have pulled on a few slings, but i couldnt see any holds so im saying it was onsight!
with GAL, james marjot
lead p1&2. got dark on p3. was fully shitting it. may have pulled on a few slings, but i couldnt see any holds so im saying it was onsight!
with GAL, james marjot
theotherpetehill 9 Aug, 2014 AltLd dog Fell seconding P2. Just made it up P3 on lead, came very close to falling on Ross's head.
with Ross McKerchar
Fell seconding P2. Just made it up P3 on lead, came very close to falling on Ross's head.
with Ross McKerchar
quiffhanger 8 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Brilliant! Crux didn't feel e3 to me but was greasy so maybe ok in better conditions. Terrifying 5mins excepting Pete to fall on top of me as he sketched up P2.
Brilliant! Crux didn't feel e3 to me but was greasy so maybe ok in better conditions. Terrifying 5mins excepting Pete to fall on top of me as he sketched up P2.
malx ?Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Was pretty wet, bit of a battle.
Was pretty wet, bit of a battle.
tim newton 29 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead the crux pitch, found the crux absolutely desperate
Lead the crux pitch, found the crux absolutely desperate
Dave Musgrove Jnr 19 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S Fantastic to be out on a proper sea-cliff again. Exciting crux
with ellis
Fantastic to be out on a proper sea-cliff again. Exciting crux
with ellis
ellis 19 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Adam Booth 19 May, 2013 AltLd Had to rest on p2 and p3 - it turns out altitude training isn't great for your rock climbing!
Had to rest on p2 and p3 - it turns out altitude training isn't great for your rock climbing!
Ed Booth 17 May, 2013 2nd Came off seconding roof and nearly got hit by falling block as the rope tensioned above and pulled peg and block off! Pretty damp.
with PJ ( Belgium), Jon Redmond
Came off seconding roof and nearly got hit by falling block as the rope tensioned above and pulled peg and block off! Pretty damp.
with PJ ( Belgium), Jon Redmond
Pieterjan De Roo 16 May, 2013 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?May, 2013 AltLd One of Adam's first routes back after climbing Everest
One of Adam's first routes back after climbing Everest
Bob ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
billb ?Jul, 2011 AltLd
with Graham A
with Graham A
thomasadixon 23 Jun, 2011 AltLd Committing as hell to start (especially starting at 9 O'clock at night!) then damn hard moves on the crux pitch (which I sadly fell off). Pure class. Finished in darkness, thank god for the head torch!
with mwatson
Committing as hell to start (especially starting at 9 O'clock at night!) then damn hard moves on the crux pitch (which I sadly fell off). Pure class. Finished in darkness, thank god for the head torch!
with mwatson
Graham Atkins 21 May, 2011 AltLd O/S
with will boxen
with will boxen
Jack Geldard ??, 2011 -
GeoffG ??, 2011 -
mwatson ??, 2011 -
debsb ??, 2011 Lead
with Mia Stacey
with Mia Stacey
mattyork2 28 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S What a route. Epic to get to it. Two cracking top pitches. Felt my mojo on lead seeping back a little on this after forcing myself to commit to layback at start of my lead on 3rd pitch. Middle pitch is something else. Thanks for the ride Al !
with alaan
What a route. Epic to get to it. Two cracking top pitches. Felt my mojo on lead seeping back a little on this after forcing myself to commit to layback at start of my lead on 3rd pitch. Middle pitch is something else. Thanks for the ride Al !
with alaan
alaan 28 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Exciting jump to start but that's only the beginning! Crux felt hard and bold but what a stupendous pitch. Got back to the bags just as the light faded and in time to rescue the abb rope (and Matt's jacket) from the ocean.
with Mat
Exciting jump to start but that's only the beginning! Crux felt hard and bold but what a stupendous pitch. Got back to the bags just as the light faded and in time to rescue the abb rope (and Matt's jacket) from the ocean.
with Mat
pezzerrr 11 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
Harald 14 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 May, 2010 2nd
lukehunt 16 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
nic42 16 Jun, 2009 AltLd
with Jack, Luke
with Jack, Luke
Hidden 16 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
datoon 12 Apr, 2009 Lead dog
with RT
with RT
tuftynick ??, 2008 -
KRB 10 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S Excellent route. Superb commitment right from the initial jump across the zawn. Crux moves were easier than expected but the tat was very dubious. A long held ambition that fully lived up to expectations.
with Martin Bridges
Excellent route. Superb commitment right from the initial jump across the zawn. Crux moves were easier than expected but the tat was very dubious. A long held ambition that fully lived up to expectations.
with Martin Bridges
Mark Kemball 12 Apr, 2007 2nd We had difficulties with the crux of the second pitch - I don't remember it being that hard. Stu crossed the roof very slightly below the point at which Rowland Edwards is pictured in Extreme Rock, but took a couple of falls onto the manky insitu gear first. I failed at this point and went left about 6' lower which seemed more reasonable but still hard.
with Stu Bradbury
We had difficulties with the crux of the second pitch - I don't remember it being that hard. Stu crossed the roof very slightly below the point at which Rowland Edwards is pictured in Extreme Rock, but took a couple of falls onto the manky insitu gear first. I failed at this point and went left about 6' lower which seemed more reasonable but still hard.
with Stu Bradbury
Hidden 22 Jul, 2006 AltLd
Hidden 28 Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S
Rich Kirby ?Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S Just awesome!!! Great seacliff/zawney climbing.The jump isn't that bad-altho I went first with a belay...mm! A grand afternoon out.
with Tyler
Just awesome!!! Great seacliff/zawney climbing.The jump isn't that bad-altho I went first with a belay...mm! A grand afternoon out.
with Tyler
ecowaller ??, 2006 Lead O/S
with Great place...I love it
with Great place...I love it
JulesV ??, 2003 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 4 Jun, 2002 Lead O/S
Chris Reid 4 Jun, 2002 2nd
NuclearNev 21 Aug, 2000 Lead I will never forget cutting lose through the overhang and moving up onto the slab with my heart in my mouth... seemed hard for E3.
I will never forget cutting lose through the overhang and moving up onto the slab with my heart in my mouth... seemed hard for E3.
Tim M ??, 2000 -
Tom Briggs ??, 2000 Lead
Roget 16 Aug, 1999 Lead O/S
with jim
with jim
William Robertson ??, 1999 Lead O/S
with Lee Clement
with Lee Clement
accynez ??, 1999 Lead
Hidden ?May, 1997 Lead O/S
phardman ??, 1997 -
ded ??, 1996 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 May, 1995 Lead O/S
crossleysm ??, 1994 AltLd O/S
with Guy Maddox
with Guy Maddox
pete johnson ?Aug, 1993 AltLd O/S
with Hughie
with Hughie
jfletcher 5 Jun, 1993 AltLd 1st route at Bosigran! Hard.
1st route at Bosigran! Hard.
Chris Wright 18 Aug, 1991 Lead O/S
Glenn Sutcliffe 25 May, 1991 -
with keefe
with keefe
keefe 25 May, 1991 -
Hidden 7 Aug, 1990 Lead
Neil McA 27 May, 1990 AltLd O/S
with Andy Perkins
with Andy Perkins
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
daviesxxx ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
Bruce Kerr 16 Jul, 1989 AltLd
with Keith Turton
with Keith Turton
Matt Clifton ?Jun, 1989 Lead O/S
with Helen
with Helen
Mike Owen 18 Aug, 1987 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Billg 10 Aug, 1987 AltLd O/S keith led P2
with Keith Sharples
keith led P2
with Keith Sharples
Hidden 13 Jun, 1987 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden ??, 1987 AltLd
Steve Lewis 11 Apr, 1986 Lead O/S
with Lyndsey, Clive Curle
with Lyndsey, Clive Curle
Seymore Butt ??, 1986 AltLd
with Dave Barton
with Dave Barton
Nigel Coe 28 May, 1985 AltLd
charlesmfrench 21 Apr, 1984 AltLd O/S
with Ian Milne
with Ian Milne
Mark Kemball 20 Jun, 1983 Lead
with Mike Arnold
with Mike Arnold
Hidden ??, 1982 -
Hidden 17 Apr, 1981 Lead
mitch1960 ??, 1981 Lead
with Dave Fernig
with Dave Fernig
Hidden 10 Jun, 1980 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1980 -
Hidden ??, 1973 -
74 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 25
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 23
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set