Rockfax Description
One of the region's greatest climbs that wends its way up the sensational arete dividing the Seaward and West Faces of the Great Zawn. The climbing is at the very upper limit of the grade. Start by negotiating 'The Crevasse' and then traversing right 7m to a stance in a small corner.
1) 5a, 9m. Traverse right, around the arete into another corner and ascend this to a stance just above.
2) 6a, 23m. Climb up the corner and then swing right at a horizontal break to below a right-leaning groove. Make some tricky moves up its right wall to below an overhang and pull leftwards through it, hard, to a thin crack in the wall above it. Follow the shallow ramp-line up the wall to a break, and traverse this right,past a peg, to a hanging stance on a foot-ledge just around the arete. The belays are hard to find but there is a good large cam in the crack above the stance.
3) 5c, 32m. Climb the steep cracks and narrowing small corner above until a sensational traverse right, below an overhang, can be made into the base of a long corner and thin crack. Follow this and the continuation groove to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Very good routes in the UK, West Country Climbs, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics, The Five Best E3 Routes in the UK?, The 30 best E3 routes in the UK?, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings.

masa-alpin 18/May AltLd

I lead P1 (from abseiling from the west), P3 (Liberator) and Diego did P2. Diego took a fall and afterwards somehow escaped to the right to join Liberator (and so it wasn't a proper tick). P1 traverse was the most terrifying slimy pitch I have ever lead at the grade (5a) above the rough sea with some spashes despite at the dead low tide.

with Diego Dellai
FlavioL1989 18/Apr AltLd O/S

This one took a while.. Currently you can't see the granite through the flying sea rat poo (no exaggeration), but once past the starting traverse - if you don't manage to vomit all over it - the rock is pristine and just amazing to climb.

with Jenny
JendeHoxar 18/Apr AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/16 AltLd dog
Hidden 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S
AlexD 03/Aug/15 AltLd β

6 hour ascent! Only led 1st 7m pitch in the end. Started up 3rd pitch but exhaustion and exposure were getting to me so I retreated and Ed took over. Great climbing but an unnerving setting, especially not being able to see your partner a lot of the time.

with Ed
Ed Babs 03/Aug/15 AltLd G/U

Just too tired to pull through the roof after four days on. Pulled ropes, rested and eventually worked out a more techy and less streny way to do it. Really enjoyable. P2&3, as Alex was over-zawned by the last pitch.

with AlexD
ferdia 02/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

intimidating and damp crossing the crevasse but luckily a breeze got up meaning great conditions for the crux pitch. really enjoyed it, not as hard as the reputation suggests, and also nowhere near as hard as kafoozalem (thank god). a great journey into and out of a stunning zawn.

Andy Moles 02/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Ferdia
Alex moore 17/Jul/15 Lead

lead 2 and 3, after a fully fledged epic on first attempt. E3?!

Jackislav 17/Jul/15 AltLd

Mega epic on trying to lead crux pitch on first attempt as the rain came in hard! horrible retreat into zawn ensued. Back to the van for a cheese sandwich and a can of man-up then followed Alex up 2/3

soph 27/Jun/15 AltLd
with Michaela Tracy
craig.potter ?/Jun/15 2nd O/S
kingholmesy ??/2015 AltLd O/S

Led P2 & P3. A great route. Worth doing for the crevasse jump alone.

with Colin
Misha 07/Sep/14 AltLd
with Eszter
Hidden 07/Sep/14 AltLd
JBO 22/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Absolutely amazing climbing, but that crux is hard! I led the middle pitch and barely held on, I've had an easier time on E5s. Stunning route all the he same, much more committing that the grade would suggest.

markalmack 18/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

lead p1&2. got dark on p3. was fully shitting it. may have pulled on a few slings, but i couldnt see any holds so im saying it was onsight!

with gwen, james marjot
theotherpetehill 09/Aug/14 AltLd dog

Fell seconding P2. Just made it up P3 on lead, came very close to falling on Ross's head.

with Ross McKerchar
quiffhanger 08/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Brilliant! Crux didn't feel e3 to me but was greasy so maybe ok in better conditions. Terrifying 5mins excepting Pete to fall on top of me as he sketched up P2.

malx ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Was pretty wet, bit of a battle.

tim newton 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Lead the crux pitch, found the crux absolutely desperate

Dave Musgrove Jnr 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Fantastic to be out on a proper sea-cliff again. Exciting crux

ellis 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
mike mo ??/2014 -
Adam Booth 19/May/13 AltLd

Had to rest on p2 and p3 - it turns out altitude training isn't great for your rock climbing!

Ed Booth 17/May/13 2nd

Came off seconding roof and nearly got hit by falling block as the rope tensioned above and pulled peg and block off! Pretty damp.

with PJ ( Belgium), Jon Redmond
Pieterjan De Roo 16/May/13 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/May/13 AltLd

One of Adam's first routes back after climbing Everest

Bob ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
billb ?/Jul/11 AltLd
with Graham A
thomasadixon 23/Jun/11 AltLd

Committing as hell to start (especially starting at 9 O'clock at night!) then damn hard moves on the crux pitch (which I sadly fell off). Pure class. Finished in darkness, thank god for the head torch!

with Mike
Graham Atkins 21/May/11 AltLd O/S
with will boxen
Jack Geldard ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
mattyork2 28/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

What a route. Epic to get to it. Two cracking top pitches. Felt my mojo on lead seeping back a little on this after forcing myself to commit to layback at start of my lead on 3rd pitch. Middle pitch is something else. Thanks for the ride Al !

alaan 28/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Exciting jump to start but that's only the beginning! Crux felt hard and bold but what a stupendous pitch. Got back to the bags just as the light faded and in time to rescue the abb rope (and Matt's jacket) from the ocean.

with Mat
pezzerrr 11/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Harald 14/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/10 2nd
lukehunt 16/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
nic42 16/Jun/09 AltLd
with Jack, Luke
Hidden 16/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
datoon 12/Apr/09 Lead dog
with RT
tuftynick ??/2008 -
KRB 10/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Excellent route. Superb commitment right from the initial jump across the zawn. Crux moves were easier than expected but the tat was very dubious. A long held ambition that fully lived up to expectations.

with Martin Bridges
Mark Kemball 12/Apr/07 2nd

We had difficulties with the crux of the second pitch - I don't remember it being that hard. Stu crossed the roof very slightly below the point at which Rowland Edwards is pictured in Extreme Rock, but took a couple of falls onto the manky insitu gear first. I failed at this point and went left about 6' lower which seemed more reasonable but still hard.

with Stu Bradbury
Hidden 22/Jul/06 AltLd
Hidden 28/Jun/06 AltLd
Rich Kirby ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S

Just awesome!!! Great seacliff/zawney climbing.The jump isn't that bad-altho I went first with a! A grand afternoon out.

with Ash
ecowaller ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Great place...I love it
JulesV ??/2003 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 04/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/2000 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2000 Lead
Roget 16/Aug/99 Lead O/S
with jim
William Robertson ??/1999 Lead O/S
with Lee Clement
clark alston ?/May/97 Lead O/S


with Steven Martin
phardman ??/1997 -
ded ??/1996 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/May/95 Lead O/S
jfletcher 05/Jun/93 AltLd

1st route at Bosigran! Hard.

with Graham Baxter
Chris Wright 18/Aug/91 Lead O/S
Glenn Sutcliffe 25/May/91 -
with keefe
keefe 25/May/91 -
daviesxxx ??/1990 -
Bruce Kerr 16/Jul/89 AltLd
with Keith Turton
Mike Owen 18/Aug/87 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Billg 10/Aug/87 AltLd O/S

keith led P2

with Keith Sharples
Hidden 13/Jun/87 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden ??/1987 AltLd
Steve Lewis 11/Apr/86 Lead O/S
with Lyndsey, Clive Curle
Seymore Butt ??/1986 -
with Dave Barton
Nigel Coe 28/May/85 AltLd
charlesmfrench 21/Apr/84 AltLd O/S
with Ian Milne
Mark Kemball 20/Jun/83 Lead
with Mike Arnold
Hidden ??/1982 -
jon 17/Apr/81 Lead
with charlie
mitch1960 ??/1981 Lead
with Dave Fernig
Hidden 10/Jun/80 AltLd
Paul Clarke ??/1980 -
with FMC
Hidden ??/1973 -
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 24
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set