Rockfax Description
A prized pitch that is very sustained but can be adequately protected by a very large number of small wires. Take extra quickdraws. Start near the left edge of the Upper West Face where a shallow groove is capped by a small overhang. Enter the groove from the right and climb to a small overhang. At the small overhang move up and left around the arete. Climb past the right end of a huge roof and then move right with difficulty to join cracks which are followed all the way to the top. Move up steep grass to find a belay. © Rockfax

Frank Cannings, Pat Littlejohn 14/Sep/1969

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Chimnastics 30 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt Just perfect. Seconded this route about 4 years ago, and found it very hard and scary at the time. Hence I was nervous to come back and lead it, and expected to be terrified all the way. However, I'm glad to say that for the most part it was steady, and I could really just enjoy the great climbing. The beginning is a bit nervy, as the first few bits of gear weren't inspiriting (however my belay reported that my second piece was bomber). I placed a great cam just at the arête, and then could relax a bit. Gear hack: the peg is a bitch to reach, so I lassoed it with a sling, yee-ha! A couple of thin moves, but you have to trust your feet. 19 bits of gear. I'd pre-placed a rope for the grass (had led it before anyway). Luke jumared up a rope to clean it, bless him. Psyched for more in the stunning Great Zawn.
with Luke Randall
Just perfect. Seconded this route about 4 years ago, and found it very hard and scary at the time. Hence I was nervous to come back and lead it, and expected to be terrified all the way. However, I'm glad to say that for the most part it was steady, and I could really just enjoy the great climbing. The beginning is a bit nervy, as the first few bits of gear weren't inspiriting (however my belay reported that my second piece was bomber). I placed a great cam just at the arête, and then could relax a bit. Gear hack: the peg is a bitch to reach, so I lassoed it with a sling, yee-ha! A couple of thin moves, but you have to trust your feet. 19 bits of gear. I'd pre-placed a rope for the grass (had led it before anyway). Luke jumared up a rope to clean it, bless him. Psyched for more in the stunning Great Zawn.
with Luke Randall
davkeo 27 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S This felt very serious & more like e3 terrain. It’s hard to spot any significant gear placements from below & it looks steep, technical & intimidating. Which it is. Fair dues to the first ascenionists. I got plenty of gear but it’s all small & smaller. Most of it I wudnt have fancied taking a big fall onto. There are some descent run outs too to add spice (not that u need it). All that said it was a gem of a pitch, long & sustained & the Zawn is quite a venue. Murder on the feet today with this heat wave making climbing almost unbearable.
This felt very serious & more like e3 terrain. It’s hard to spot any significant gear placements from below & it looks steep, technical & intimidating. Which it is. Fair dues to the first ascenionists. I got plenty of gear but it’s all small & smaller. Most of it I wudnt have fancied taking a big fall onto. There are some descent run outs too to add spice (not that u need it). All that said it was a gem of a pitch, long & sustained & the Zawn is quite a venue. Murder on the feet today with this heat wave making climbing almost unbearable.
Steven Andrews 21 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S Great lead by Jane. Fantastic and sustained climbing just doesn't let up. Glad to second a the gear was not inspiring.
Great lead by Jane. Fantastic and sustained climbing just doesn't let up. Glad to second a the gear was not inspiring.
janegallwey 21 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S 22 bits of gear - still scared
22 bits of gear - still scared
Hidden 31 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Dohnny_Jawes 31 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
Luxulyan 16 Aug, 2016 2nd
Hidden 16 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 31 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 16 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S
Owen W-G 16 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Amazing route, intricate, delicate and sustained but never desperate and not pumpy. Gear just about minimum acceptable on bottom half, didn't place micro nuts but mini cams required. Ideal conditions 6.30 on hot day, condition of zawn floor is appalling. Belayer should anchor to ab rope.
Amazing route, intricate, delicate and sustained but never desperate and not pumpy. Gear just about minimum acceptable on bottom half, didn't place micro nuts but mini cams required. Ideal conditions 6.30 on hot day, condition of zawn floor is appalling. Belayer should anchor to ab rope.
Teappleby 18 Jun, 2016 Lead Beautiful. Possibly the best route I've done not on grit. Thought it was like a harder, longer and better version of Aphasia at sergent crag slabs. Gear was also probably worse but not unmanageabley bad. Also the Zawn is just mega.
Beautiful. Possibly the best route I've done not on grit. Thought it was like a harder, longer and better version of Aphasia at sergent crag slabs. Gear was also probably worse but not unmanageabley bad. Also the Zawn is just mega.
Hidden 11 Jul, 2015 Lead
th£wrecker 10 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Very good, small gear glad to complete this classic
Very good, small gear glad to complete this classic
whiteexplorer 10 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S
soph 27 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S
with Michaela Tracy
with Michaela Tracy
Duncan Campbell 27 Jun, 2015 2nd Great Wall climbing
Great Wall climbing
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 27 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
jgordon75 16 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with Tim Jepson
with Tim Jepson
beni ??, 2015 Lead O/S
Chimnastics 13 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S Really enjoyed my first outing in the Great Zawn. Awesome route in a stunning setting. Very satisfying, technical moves. Very pleased I didn't fall off!
with Luke Randall
Really enjoyed my first outing in the Great Zawn. Awesome route in a stunning setting. Very satisfying, technical moves. Very pleased I didn't fall off!
with Luke Randall
sharpie 21 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Waited 40 years to do this ! Great route.
with PL
Waited 40 years to do this ! Great route.
with PL
richgac 15 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Superb
with Charlie
Superb
with Charlie
Hidden 18 May, 2014 TR
Kirill 18 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S Top quality technical climbing all the way! Possibly one or two 5c moves, but definitely lots of 5b. Graham led it very deliberately, taking about 2 hours. I got a little cold at the bottom and was still shaking quite violently at the arete move. Warmed up a bit after that. The jungle at the top between Graham's belay and the abseil spike turned out to be harder, scarier and more unpleasant than anticipated.
with GrahamD
Top quality technical climbing all the way! Possibly one or two 5c moves, but definitely lots of 5b. Graham led it very deliberately, taking about 2 hours. I got a little cold at the bottom and was still shaking quite violently at the arete move. Warmed up a bit after that. The jungle at the top between Graham's belay and the abseil spike turned out to be harder, scarier and more unpleasant than anticipated.
with GrahamD
AndyF 17 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with Ian G
with Ian G
Misha 16 May, 2013 Lead O/S First ever route in Great Zawn. Great line, looks intimidating and the starting moves are hard for 5b but after that it's steady balancy crack climbing. I thought the gear was ok for the grade, a bit small and a bit run out in places but got 16 runners in and could have had more. The scary bit was the steep jungle at the top! Great to chat with Frank Cannings before and after the route. He said he had about 5 runners on the FA! I had 5 by the time I moved out onto the arête... With Viktor from Sweden on the BMC international meet.
with Viktor
First ever route in Great Zawn. Great line, looks intimidating and the starting moves are hard for 5b but after that it's steady balancy crack climbing. I thought the gear was ok for the grade, a bit small and a bit run out in places but got 16 runners in and could have had more. The scary bit was the steep jungle at the top! Great to chat with Frank Cannings before and after the route. He said he had about 5 runners on the FA! I had 5 by the time I moved out onto the arête... With Viktor from Sweden on the BMC international meet.
with Viktor
Hidden 1 May, 2013 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 1 May, 2013 2nd O/S
James Oswald 19 Jun, 2012 2nd O/S Not especially hard technically, I wouldn't have been happy with the gear though..
Not especially hard technically, I wouldn't have been happy with the gear though..
Tom Last 21 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S Wow, big day out for me. Took absolutely ages on this, placed an entire rack of 21 QDs and several cams! Agree that this is a lot like Diabaig Pillar or Comes the Dervish. Pretty pushy climbing with some decent runouts, between good rests. Plenty of gear if you look around, not much of it that good. Brilliant route :)
with Andy2
Wow, big day out for me. Took absolutely ages on this, placed an entire rack of 21 QDs and several cams! Agree that this is a lot like Diabaig Pillar or Comes the Dervish. Pretty pushy climbing with some decent runouts, between good rests. Plenty of gear if you look around, not much of it that good. Brilliant route :)
with Andy2
Hidden ??, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Marti999 9 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
Graham C 9 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
Hidden 14 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
dan gibson 27 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
with helen gibson
Crank ?Sep, 2010 Solo β One of the most exciting and adventurous climbs I've ever done. After abseil in to the Great Zawn retreat would be hard work. Looking up from the depths of the Great Zawn Desolation Row looks daunting. After the start which looked slippery but wasn't the moves demand a clean focus that is just so enjoyable. Move after move of delicate balance and wondering whether there's a complication ahead. The topping out into a luxurious meadow is delightful. I just want to do it again.
One of the most exciting and adventurous climbs I've ever done. After abseil in to the Great Zawn retreat would be hard work. Looking up from the depths of the Great Zawn Desolation Row looks daunting. After the start which looked slippery but wasn't the moves demand a clean focus that is just so enjoyable. Move after move of delicate balance and wondering whether there's a complication ahead. The topping out into a luxurious meadow is delightful. I just want to do it again.
Dave Turnbull, BMC 15 May, 2010 2nd
with Nimrod (Israel)
with Nimrod (Israel)
Bobby Gilbert 10 May, 2010 2nd With Stefan from Swedan on BMC international meet.
with Stefan Lindblom
With Stefan from Swedan on BMC international meet.
with Stefan Lindblom
phil64 ?Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 24 Jul, 2009 Lead
with Phil Robins / Iain Peters, Dee de Mengel, Craig Harwood
with Phil Robins / Iain Peters, Dee de Mengel, Craig Harwood
John Southworth 27 Jun, 2009 Lead
with Woody
with Woody
Hidden 24 May, 2009 Lead O/S
Mark Davies PK 6 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S Sustained but with good rests. A brilliant route with enough gear with small cams and wires. Definately worth 3 stars
with Fiend
Sustained but with good rests. A brilliant route with enough gear with small cams and wires. Definately worth 3 stars
with Fiend
Sidekick ?Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
wojt ?Aug, 2006 Lead O/S
pete johnson ?Aug, 2006 Lead O/S
with Rick Newcombe
with Rick Newcombe
jimdanson 30 May, 2006 2nd O/S
with Mike Adams
with Mike Adams
ecowaller ??, 2006 Lead O/S
with Great place...I love it
with Great place...I love it
steveb2006 17 Sep, 2005 Lead good route in atmospheric setting
with Pete Carter
good route in atmospheric setting
with Pete Carter
Hidden 19 Jun, 2005 Lead
Paz 19 Jun, 2005 2nd β
duncan 23 Apr, 2004 Lead O/S
with tobyfk
with tobyfk
cem 9 Apr, 2004 Lead O/S
with GrahamD
with GrahamD
Hidden ?Jun, 2003 2nd
jfletcher 31 May, 2003 Lead
peterbeaumont ?Jul, 2002 Lead
Nigel Coe 1 Jun, 2002 Lead
with Amnon
with Amnon
lost.arrow 5 May, 2002 -
andy_pemberton ??, 2002 Lead Great atmospheric route. Take lots of gear!
with Martin Dunning
Great atmospheric route. Take lots of gear!
with Martin Dunning
steveb2006 28 Jul, 2001 Lead Good route
with Roland Smith
Good route
with Roland Smith
Steve Claw ??, 2001 -
Roget 20 Aug, 1999 Lead O/S
with jim
with jim
William Robertson ??, 1999 Lead O/S
with Lee Clement
with Lee Clement
Hamish Leslie ??, 1997 AltLd O/S
with Ste Lawler
with Ste Lawler
Hidden ?Aug, 1996 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1996 Lead
Hidden 23 May, 1995 Lead O/S
GAtkins 21 Apr, 1995 Lead O/S
with Tim Noble
with Tim Noble
neilh 7 May, 1994 Lead O/S Steady for the grade, comparable to Diabeg Pillar, great route
with sara hyde
Steady for the grade, comparable to Diabeg Pillar, great route
with sara hyde
Hidden ??, 1994 Lead
Mark Kemball ?Jul, 1991 Lead
with Alison Dorey
with Alison Dorey
Hidden 7 Aug, 1990 2nd
AB1965 21 Apr, 1990 - with Dave ( Drac) Sanderson
with Dave ( Drac) Sanderson
Mike Owen 9 Aug, 1988 2nd rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Ashley Hold 4 Aug, 1988 2nd
with Simon Davies, Glyn Davies
with Simon Davies, Glyn Davies
RockPhoenix 1 Aug, 1988 2nd O/S Wow thin gear
with Bruv Simon
Wow thin gear
with Bruv Simon
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 1988 Lead
jcw ??, 1988 -
with Simon Caterall, Simon Donowho
with Simon Caterall, Simon Donowho
Billg 10 Aug, 1987 2nd
with Keith Sharples
with Keith Sharples
Hidden ?Jul, 1987 Lead O/S
Neil R 25 May, 1987 2nd
with AIH
with AIH
Seymore Butt ??, 1987 Lead
with Ian Fenton
with Ian Fenton
Steve Lewis 21 Sep, 1986 2nd
with Alun Richardson
with Alun Richardson
Hidden 4 May, 1985 Lead O/S
Hidden ?May, 1985 Lead
UKB Shark ??, 1985 Lead O/S
Dave Garnett 21 Aug, 1984 Lead O/S
with Jane Garnett
with Jane Garnett
Hidden 7 Aug, 1984 Lead
Campbell42 ?Aug, 1984 Lead O/S
with Eric Marsden
with Eric Marsden
Steve Clegg 25 Apr, 1984 Lead
with Stu C
with Stu C
charlesmfrench 22 Apr, 1984 Lead O/S
with Ian Milne
with Ian Milne
steveboote ??, 1983 Lead
with Rona Owen
with Rona Owen
Hidden ??, 1982 Lead
Hidden 17 Apr, 1981 Lead
mitch1960 ??, 1981 Lead
with Dave Fernig
with Dave Fernig
cenotaphcorner 9 Apr, 1980 Lead O/S
with David Stainthorpe
with David Stainthorpe
Hidden ??, 1980 -
Mike Owen 1 Aug, 1979 Lead O/S
with Elaine Watson
with Elaine Watson
Hidden 30 Jun, 1978 AltLd
22 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 27
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set