Rockfax Description
A prized pitch that is very sustained but can be adequately protected by a very large number of small wires. Take extra quickdraws. Start near the left edge of the Upper West Face where a shallow groove is capped by a small overhang. Enter the groove from the right and climb to a small overhang. At the small overhang move up and left around the arete. Climb past the right end of a huge roof and then move right with difficulty to join cracks which are followed all the way to the top. Move up steep grass to find a belay. © Rockfax

Frank Cannings, Pat Littlejohn 14/Sep/1969

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings.

Hidden 31/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Luxulyan 16/Aug/16 2nd
tim.fairhall 16/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Richard
Hidden 31/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Owen W-G 16/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Amazing route, intricate, delicate and sustained but never desperate and not pumpy. Gear just about minimum acceptable on bottom half, didn't place micro nuts but mini cams required. Ideal conditions 6.30 on hot day, condition of zawn floor is appalling. Belayer should anchor to ab rope.

Teappleby 18/Jun/16 Lead

Beautiful. Possibly the best route I've done not on grit. Thought it was like a harder, longer and better version of Aphasia at sergent crag slabs. Gear was also probably worse but not unmanageabley bad. Also the Zawn is just mega.

Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead
dready 10/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Very good, small gear glad to complete this classic

whiteexplorer 10/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with joe
soph 27/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Michaela Tracy
Duncan Campbell 27/Jun/15 2nd

Great Wall climbing

with Robbie
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
jgordon75 16/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Tim Jepson
beni ??/2015 Lead O/S
manbat 13/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Really enjoyed my first outing in the Great Zawn. Awesome route in a stunning setting. Very satisfying, technical moves. Very pleased I didn't fall off!

with Luke Randall
sharpie 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Waited 40 years to do this ! Great route.

with PL
Hidden 18/May/14 TR
Kirill 18/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Top quality technical climbing all the way! Possibly one or two 5c moves, but definitely lots of 5b. Graham led it very deliberately, taking about 2 hours. I got a little cold at the bottom and was still shaking quite violently at the arete move. Warmed up a bit after that. The jungle at the top between Graham's belay and the abseil spike turned out to be harder, scarier and more unpleasant than anticipated.

AndyF 17/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Ian G
Misha 16/May/13 Lead O/S

First ever route in Great Zawn. Great line, looks intimidating and the starting moves are hard for 5b but after that it's steady balancy crack climbing. I thought the gear was ok for the grade, a bit small and a bit run out in places but got 16 runners in and could have had more. The scary bit was the steep jungle at the top! Great to chat with Frank Cannings before and after the route. He said he had about 5 runners on the FA! I had 5 by the time I moved out onto the arête... With Viktor from Sweden on the BMC international meet.

with Viktor
Hidden 01/May/13 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 01/May/13 2nd O/S
James Oswald 19/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Not especially hard technically, I wouldn't have been happy with the gear though..

Hidden 21/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Marti999 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Graham C 09/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Marti
Hidden 14/Jul/11 Lead O/S
dan gibson 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
Crank ?/Sep/10 Solo β

One of the most exciting and adventurous climbs I've ever done. After abseil in to the Great Zawn retreat would be hard work. Looking up from the depths of the Great Zawn Desolation Row looks daunting. After the start which looked slippery but wasn't the moves demand a clean focus that is just so enjoyable. Move after move of delicate balance and wondering whether there's a complication ahead. The topping out into a luxurious meadow is delightful. I just want to do it again.

Dave Turnbull, BMC 15/May/10 2nd
with Nimrod (Israel)
Bobby Gilbert 10/May/10 2nd

With Stefan from Swedan on BMC international meet.

with Stefan Lindblom
phil64 ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 24/Jul/09 Lead
with Phil Robins / Iain Peters, Dee de Mengel, Craig Harwood
John Southworth 27/Jun/09 Lead
with Woody
Hidden 24/May/09 Lead O/S
Mark Davies PK 06/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Sustained but with good rests. A brilliant route with enough gear with small cams and wires. Definately worth 3 stars

with Fiend
Sidekick ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
wojt ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
pete johnson ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Rick Newcombe
jimdanson 30/May/06 2nd O/S
with Mike Adams
ecowaller ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Great place...I love it
Hidden 17/Sep/05 Lead
Tim Steward 19/Jun/05 Lead
with James Parrot
Paz 19/Jun/05 2nd β
with TS
duncan 23/Apr/04 Lead O/S
cem 09/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/03 2nd
jfletcher 31/May/03 Lead
peterbeaumont ?/Jul/02 Lead
Nigel Coe 01/Jun/02 Lead
with Amnon
lost.arrow 05/May/02 -
andy_pemberton ??/2002 Lead

Great atmospheric route. Take lots of gear!

with Martin Dunning
Hidden 28/Jul/01 Lead
Roget 20/Aug/99 Lead O/S
with jim
William Robertson ??/1999 Lead O/S
with Lee Clement
Hamish Leslie ??/1997 AltLd O/S
with Ste Lawler
Hidden ?/Aug/96 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1996 Lead
Hidden 23/May/95 Lead O/S
GAtkins 21/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with Tim Noble
neilh 07/May/94 Lead O/S

Steady for the grade, comparable to Diabeg Pillar, great route

with sara hyde
Hidden ??/1994 Lead
Mark Kemball ?/Jul/91 Lead
with Alison Dorey
AB1965 21/Apr/90 -

with Dave ( Drac) Sanderson

Mike Owen 09/Aug/88 2nd rpt
with Elaine Owen
Ashley Hold 04/Aug/88 2nd
with Simon Davies, Glyn Davies
Bullybones ??/1988 Lead
jcw ??/1988 -
with Simon Caterall, Simon Donowho
Billg 10/Aug/87 2nd
with Keith Sharples
Hidden ?/Jul/87 Lead O/S
Neil R 25/May/87 2nd
with Ian
Seymore Butt ??/1987 Lead
with Ian Fenton
Steve Lewis 21/Sep/86 2nd
with Alun Richardson
Hidden 04/May/85 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/85 Lead
ukb & bmc shark ??/1985 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/84 Lead
Campbell42 ?/Aug/84 Lead O/S
with Eric Marsden
charlesmfrench 22/Apr/84 Lead O/S
with Ian Milne
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/81 -
Hidden 17/Apr/81 Lead
mitch1960 ??/1981 Lead
with Dave Fernig
Paul Clarke ??/1980 -
with FMC
Mike Owen 01/Aug/79 Lead O/S
with Elaine Watson
Hidden 30/Jun/78 AltLd
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 26
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 26
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set