20m.

Rockfax Description
Still one of the hardest routes on sandstone more than 25 years after the first ascent. Start up Leave it to Me and make a technical traverse left out onto the face. Finish over the roof. © Rockfax

M.Crocker, R.Thomas 08/Apr/1990

Ticklists

Rockfax South Wales Sandstone Graded List, The Road to 8a

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
strudles 21 May Lead dog fell after the crux on the easier middle section ! top felt steady but need to come back another day, quite close now
with Lewis
fell after the crux on the easier middle section ! top felt steady but need to come back another day, quite close now
with Lewis
MathewWright1998 21 Jul, 2018 Lead β Retro flashed and bloody chuffed! First seen this line 3 years ago when I first started climbing and thought it to be impossible. A few months after I tried it and could barely do the moves. Yesterday I stick clipped the second bolt then went for it, I could only remember the route being very thin but had no idea on how the moves went. I onsighted it from the crux to the top and this is why I’m calling it a retro flash. For anybody concerned about grade, this would be a solid 7c on Peak line
with Iona, Lewis Edwards
Retro flashed and bloody chuffed! First seen this line 3 years ago when I first started climbing and thought it to be impossible. A few months after I tried it and could barely do the moves. Yesterday I stick clipped the second bolt then went for it, I could only remember the route being very thin but had no idea on how the moves went. I onsighted it from the crux to the top and this is why I’m calling it a retro flash. For anybody concerned about grade, this would be a solid 7c on Peak line
with Iona, Lewis Edwards
strudles 5 Jul, 2018 TR dog hot day, did every move but couldn't link the crux. top was harder than I expected.
with alexjz
hot day, did every move but couldn't link the crux. top was harder than I expected.
with alexjz
Ally Smith 6 May, 2018 Lead RP Pulled a big hold off after the crux. Soggy at the top made the finish spicy. Might just scrape 7c+,
with hms
Pulled a big hold off after the crux. Soggy at the top made the finish spicy. Might just scrape 7c+,
with hms
Billg 3 Jun, 2017 Lead RP Went very swiftly thanks to the beta from Timm (2 RPs) . Only just 7c if it actually is (seems too easy after the start too me to be worth 7c). Very height/reach dependant to reach the better crimps in the rail. (I'm 5'8" and could just make the span). This might explain the wide range of grade opinion?. Being tall would make it much easier.
with Timm Oertel
Went very swiftly thanks to the beta from Timm (2 RPs) . Only just 7c if it actually is (seems too easy after the start too me to be worth 7c). Very height/reach dependant to reach the better crimps in the rail. (I'm 5'8" and could just make the span). This might explain the wide range of grade opinion?. Being tall would make it much easier.
with Timm Oertel
afrosam 22 Apr, 2017 Lead dog Savage crimping, one for the winter...
with TomJ
Savage crimping, one for the winter...
with TomJ
Max Lowry 13 Aug, 2016 Lead RP Awesome!, one of my favourite routes here, that and land of dinosaurs :), definitely only 7C. Just need strong fingers :) my style!
with KeriV
Awesome!, one of my favourite routes here, that and land of dinosaurs :), definitely only 7C. Just need strong fingers :) my style!
with KeriV
guy xavier percival 2 Jul, 2014 Lead RP Really good, tiny crimps on the lower bit . Hard for 7c
Really good, tiny crimps on the lower bit . Hard for 7c
Hidden 19 May, 2011 Lead RP
westyb3 2 May, 2011 Lead RP I got through the crux on the onsight when a hold broke. Gutted! got it 2nd go.
with Alan Sarhan
I got through the crux on the onsight when a hold broke. Gutted! got it 2nd go.
with Alan Sarhan
gejones 24 Jun, 2010 Lead RP Wow, didn't expect to be clipping the belay on this one tonight! As far as grade's concerned I've no idea, I'll reserve my vote until I've got more experience at this level.
with Sean
Wow, didn't expect to be clipping the belay on this one tonight! As far as grade's concerned I've no idea, I'll reserve my vote until I've got more experience at this level.
with Sean
marric 2 Jun, 2010 Lead RP 2nd go. Tough!
with sharpie
2nd go. Tough!
with sharpie
Hidden 4 Oct, 2009 Lead RP
goi.ashmore 10 Jul, 1994 Lead RP Interested to see the recent video. I notice a lot more moves than we used to do. The climber is moving up from much lower footholds, and going right handed from the moves out from the matchstick. Might be harder that way. The route was quite popular in the mid 90s, before the jug came off (at the lip) and smashed the belayers knees in (ouch). In reply to Morgan - Left Handed. The route has had a lot more than 7 Ascents - I know 5 others not listed here. This used to be considered Fr7b+, I'm glad I held out and graded it Fr7c :)
with Matt Hirst
Interested to see the recent video. I notice a lot more moves than we used to do. The climber is moving up from much lower footholds, and going right handed from the moves out from the matchstick. Might be harder that way. The route was quite popular in the mid 90s, before the jug came off (at the lip) and smashed the belayers knees in (ouch). In reply to Morgan - Left Handed. The route has had a lot more than 7 Ascents - I know 5 others not listed here. This used to be considered Fr7b+, I'm glad I held out and graded it Fr7c :)
with Matt Hirst
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Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)