Restricted Access
Endangered Yellow Wagtails are currently nesting on Butt Hole Scoundrels - Fr. 6b+ (Line 3 on SWCW). Please avoid climbing in the Scoundrels Cave area until the end of September, and keep an eye out for others until then.
They migrate from Africa to the UK around March till September, so will hopefully be on their way by October.
from 01/06/2025 to 30/10/2025
Rockfax Description
A sandstone classic up the centre of the wall. Continuously interesting moves on excellent stone. © Rockfax
M Crocker, R Thomas 25/Mar/1990.
Ticklists
Rockfax South Wales Top 50 , No Car? No Problem! (Cardiff) , Rockfax South Wales Top 45 , Rockfax South Wales Sandstone Graded List , Bristol Bangers , Unfinished Businesses , ROCKFAX - South Wales Sport climbs 7b/+ Graded list
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| TheJourneyto8a | 25 May |
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βeta: New lockable lower off carabineers fitted today as the old ones went missing | βeta? | |
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βeta: New lockable lower off carabineers fitted today as the old ones went missing |
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| ChloeJ | 21 Jun, 2024 |
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βeta: Route I've been most psyched on in South Wales! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Route I've been most psyched on in South Wales! |
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| mikedunk | 26 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Be careful with the jug at half height, it\'s loose on the edge and no one wants it to shrink! | ||
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βeta: Be careful with the jug at half height, it's loose on the edge and no one wants it to shrink! |
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| David Clover | 4 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Very loose block at half height at the left hand option. Imo this is now a no go option and will likely kill your belayer if attempted. Appropriately marked DEATH by a party before us. | ||
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βeta: Very loose block at half height at the left hand option. Imo this is now a no go option and will likely kill your belayer if attempted. Appropriately marked DEATH by a party before us. |
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| Ben.o.neill | 4 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: you can no longer go left at the third bolt as the block is ready to come off. Going right feel a fair bit softer. Doesn't take anything away from how great a climb this is though! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: you can no longer go left at the third bolt as the block is ready to come off. Going right feel a fair bit softer. Doesn't take anything away from how great a climb this is though! |
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| Billg | 24 May, 2019 |
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βeta: The original route climbed slightly left at mid height after the jugs. Most ascents now seem to use the easier right hand version (7b / 7b+) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The original route climbed slightly left at mid height after the jugs. Most ascents now seem to use the easier right hand version (7b / 7b+) |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for The Gap
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Sharpy Unplugged
Grade: 7b+ ***
(The Darren )