21m. Possibly the best route on sandstone at the grade?
Climbs the steep wall via some big pulls and high steps to good holds above a big reach off a shot hole. The original route pulled slightly left then back right (7b+). A newer version moves right to a good flake, then back left (7b). Above this tough moves past a slanting crack lead to a pumpy finale on little crimps

M Crocker, R Thomas 25/Mar/1990

Ticklists: Rockfax South Wales Top 50.

Bates 13/Aug/16 Lead RP

Really good. Pinched beta from the you tube video :)

Ally Smith 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S


with Helen
Hidden 06/Aug/16 Lead
MathewWright1998 03/Aug/16 2nd RP

On the GriGri, fantastic climbing!

J1_TOV 31/Jul/16 Lead RP
Max Lowry 31/Jul/16 Lead RP
afrosam 31/Jul/16 Lead β
mikedevcole 31/Jul/16 Lead dog
Stuart William 23/Jul/16 Lead RP

4 goes. 2 ended in lobbing off the final crimps because I was missing a foot. Should have done it 2nd go really. Went right at the crux, seemed the most logical option.

Tomas P 07/Jul/16 Lead RP

Did the version going left. One of the best at the gap!

Carl Watkins 07/Jul/16 Lead RP

at last

with del
DanielleMarie 26/Oct/15 TR dog
Ollie B 08/Sep/15 Lead RP

Piece of piss......after about 10 go's and years of it hanging over me. Almost got as the warm up route though. I must be improving.

with B.Brewer
Carl Watkins 27/Jun/15 Lead dog

the peg has come out near the top so now very run out.... needs a new bot to replace this peg

with Sam T, Neil, jackie, sam
dannygale 15/Sep/14 Lead RP

Beautiful route

with Simon
hankyc 14/Sep/14 Lead RP

first redpoint of the day, stuck the last move!! such a good route!!!

Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead
Carl Watkins 09/Sep/14 Lead dog
with sam
Neil 04/Sep/14 2nd
Carl Watkins 31/Aug/14 Lead dog
James S 18/Aug/14 Lead dog

Such good moves! Done bolt to bolt with difficulty but not too desperate, just struggled to clip the peg at the top, extending probably a good idea! Super sustained and will take a few more goes on it to have it dialled enough for a rp attempt. Psyched to come back though!!

with henry
hankyc 18/Aug/14 Lead dog

amazing moves gotta come back!

Spillers 27/Jul/14 Lead RP

Finally sent and smooth when it went :0)

with Zoe Silsbury
Hidden 18/Jul/14 Lead RP
i.fish2000 25/Jun/14 Lead RP
tommccluskey 25/Jun/14 Lead RP

Somehow fell off from just above the belay on my second go today, got it next go :D

with Imogen
tommccluskey 21/Jun/14 Lead dog

All the moves done and spent quite a lot of time refining the sequences. Linked from the lh pocket by the 4th bolt to the top.

with Imogen, Jess
Jon_Warner 01/Jun/14 Lead dog

Agree with AJM's comment! The FA may have gone left but it hardly follows the (current) natural line! Really nice route. One move low down stumping me. One to come back to.

with Jenni
Carl Watkins 01/Jun/14 Lead dog
with jackie, sam
rhoslynfrugtniet 10/Sep/13 Lead RP
AJM 26/Aug/13 Lead RP

3rd go. Not sure about this "2 variations" thing, imo there's a sensible sequence and a wack sequence - simples! Reckon low/med 7b+ for the sensible way, felt about the same to me as This God is Mine and def harder than consensus hard 7bs eg Tin Of and Sticky Wicket

with Kate Seaborne, Helen Seaborne
Stone Muppet 26/Aug/13 TR dog

testing injured ankle

with am
DorsetGareth 30/Jul/13 Lead dog

Bolt to bolt, with some extenders! Nice route.

Ricky Rocks 09/Jul/13 Lead RP

Brilliant route, flows really nicely.

ollie_e 25/May/13 Lead dog
with anthony
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead rpt
guy xavier percival 28/Sep/12 Lead RP
with paul
fyfee8a 06/Sep/12 -

Lapping it to get fit. Awesome training route

drysori 28/Jul/12 Lead RP

Gained more strength than I thought since last year and the crux felt steady.

with CraigP
Spacetourist 18/May/12 Lead RP

1st RP, should have onsighted. Ok for the grade.

with Jak, Gary, SJ
Dan Jenkin 14/Aug/11 Lead RP

2nd go...brilliant!

James Marshall 27/Jul/11 Lead RP

hardish move then great.

drysori 24/Jul/11 Lead dog

One day... Did all of the moves, need a return visit.

Hidden 01/Jul/11 TR dog
Stone Muppet 16/Jun/11 TR dog
with gareth
Hidden 19/May/11 TR RP
Hidden 14/May/11 Lead dog
Hidden 10/May/11 TR RP
richsmithinbristol 02/May/11 Lead β

Beta flash courtesy of the Rainbow beta machine.

westyb3 02/May/11 Lead O/S

great route!!

with Alan Sarhan
Hidden 30/Apr/11 Lead dog
Hidden 31/Aug/10 Lead dnf
colesy 15/Aug/10 Lead RP


richardr 22/Jun/10 Lead RP
MorganPreece 03/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Went so well, so close to falling of the last move reaching for the top, best route at the gap, so pumpy. easyer for the tall, i had to do this crazy undercut move at the crux!

with Will
Garrouli ?/Jun/10 Lead RP
with Rasta, Pete
DafSWMC 01/Oct/09 Lead RP

YYFY, as they say! Perfect after-work session.

with Gareth
gejones 27/Sep/09 Lead RP

Been aspiring to climb this route for years! (climbed original left hand version).

with DafSWMC
Tim W 11/Jun/09 Lead dnf
with Andrew Davidson
alan rosier 09/Jun/09 Lead RP
onlytovey 04/Jun/09 TR RP


with Ralph
Hidden 04/Jun/09 TR RP
drysori ??/2009 TR
njlyons 19/Oct/08 Lead dnf
Hidden 14/Sep/08 Lead RP
Hidden 03/Nov/07 Lead RP
Billg ?/May/07 Lead RP
with John James
Hidden 11/Apr/07 Lead RP
Paz 20/May/06 Lead dog

Awesome route. TR'd it in about 3 afterwards - should get back on it definitely.

with TS
goi.ashmore 16/Jun/94 Lead RP
with Roy Thomas
Cowflinger ?/Jul/92 Lead RP
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High 7c
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Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
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Votes cast 23
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