Rockfax Description
The sandstone classic slap bang up the centre of the wall. Continuously interesting moves on excellent sandstone. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Possibly the best route on sandstone at the grade?
Climbs the steep wall via some big pulls and high steps to good holds above a big reach off a shot hole. The original route pulled slightly left then back right (7b+). A newer version moves right to a good flake, then back left (7b). Above this tough moves past a slanting crack lead to a pumpy finale on little crimps

M Crocker, R Thomas 25/Mar/1990

Ticklists: Rockfax South Wales Top 50, No Car? No Problem! (Cardiff).

chris85 ?/Aug Lead dog

Savage and reach, think I got the moves locked down for this

ericinbristol 25/Jul TR dnf

Shut down due to my lack of reach.

hornbywill 16/Jul Lead RP

2nd go fell off the last move

afrosam 09/Jul Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Jul TR dog
tobydunford 08/Jul Lead RP
with Myles jordan
mattb42 29/May Lead β
Edward Kwong 29/May Lead RP

Great moves on small holds, good rests in between.

mattb42 29/May Lead β
samparsons 28/May Lead RP

I took the right hand flake, it climbs way better.

with Emmie
Tom92 21/May Lead RP

Grabbed anchor draw to clip it! Pink-point!

David Clover 13/May Lead dog

It'll go! Foot slip ruined my send

WillAndrew 06/May Lead RP
with KatePG
afrosam 22/Apr Lead rpt
with TomJ
joe1joe1joe2 17/Apr Lead RP

Third attempt. According to the UKC description we may have done the 7b variation. Either way what a great route! Don't be put off by the fact that it looks run out; it really isn't that bad. Also worth noting this is harder for the short (less than 5ft9 wingspan), I had to do a little dyno to a good jug where others could just reach up.

dom_joyce265 17/Apr Lead RP

Awesome route, took the 7b variant.

phillipwright 17/Apr Lead RP

Was really gutted to find out after finishing it that using the flake makes it 7b instead of 7b+. Still an amazing route with sustained crimps

Bates 13/Aug/16 Lead RP

Really good. Pinched beta from the you tube video :)

Hidden 06/Aug/16 Lead
Ally Smith 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S


with Helen
MathewWright1998 03/Aug/16 2nd RP

On the GriGri, fantastic climbing!

J1_TOV 31/Jul/16 Lead RP
Max Lowry 31/Jul/16 Lead RP
mikedevcole 31/Jul/16 Lead dog
afrosam 31/Jul/16 Lead β
Stuart William 23/Jul/16 Lead RP

4 goes. 2 ended in lobbing off the final crimps because I was missing a foot. Should have done it 2nd go really. Went right at the crux, seemed the most logical option.

Carl Watkins 07/Jul/16 Lead RP

at last

with del
Tomas P 07/Jul/16 Lead RP

Did the version going left. One of the best at the gap!

DanielleMarie 26/Oct/15 TR dog
Ollie B 08/Sep/15 Lead RP

Piece of piss......after about 10 go's and years of it hanging over me. Almost got as the warm up route though. I must be improving.

with B.Brewer
Carl Watkins 27/Jun/15 Lead dog

the peg has come out near the top so now very run out.... needs a new bot to replace this peg

with Sam T, Neil, jackie, sam
dannygale 15/Sep/14 Lead RP

Beautiful route

with Simon
hankyc 14/Sep/14 Lead RP

first redpoint of the day, stuck the last move!! such a good route!!!

Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead
Carl Watkins 09/Sep/14 Lead dog
with sam
Neil 04/Sep/14 2nd
Carl Watkins 31/Aug/14 Lead dog
hankyc 18/Aug/14 Lead dog

amazing moves gotta come back!

James S 18/Aug/14 Lead dog

Such good moves! Done bolt to bolt with difficulty but not too desperate, just struggled to clip the peg at the top, extending probably a good idea! Super sustained and will take a few more goes on it to have it dialled enough for a rp attempt. Psyched to come back though!!

with henry
Spillers 27/Jul/14 Lead RP

Finally sent and smooth when it went :0)

with Zoe Silsbury
Hidden 18/Jul/14 Lead RP
tommccluskey 25/Jun/14 Lead RP

Somehow fell off from just above the belay on my second go today, got it next go :D

with Imogen
imogen.fish 25/Jun/14 Lead RP
tommccluskey 21/Jun/14 Lead dog

All the moves done and spent quite a lot of time refining the sequences. Linked from the lh pocket by the 4th bolt to the top.

with Imogen, Jess
Jon_Warner 01/Jun/14 Lead dog

Agree with AJM's comment! The FA may have gone left but it hardly follows the (current) natural line! Really nice route. One move low down stumping me. One to come back to.

with Jenni
Carl Watkins 01/Jun/14 Lead dog
with jackie, sam
rhoslynfrugtniet 10/Sep/13 Lead RP
Stone Muppet 26/Aug/13 TR dog

testing injured ankle

with am
AJM 26/Aug/13 Lead RP

3rd go. Not sure about this "2 variations" thing, imo there's a sensible sequence and a wack sequence - simples! Reckon low/med 7b+ for the sensible way, felt about the same to me as This God is Mine and def harder than consensus hard 7bs eg Tin Of and Sticky Wicket

with Kate Seaborne, Helen Seaborne
DorsetGareth 30/Jul/13 Lead dog

Bolt to bolt, with some extenders! Nice route.

Ricky Rocks 09/Jul/13 Lead RP

Brilliant route, flows really nicely.

ollie_e 25/May/13 Lead dog
with anthony
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead rpt
guy xavier percival 28/Sep/12 Lead RP
with paul
fyfee8a 06/Sep/12 -

Lapping it to get fit. Awesome training route

drysori 28/Jul/12 Lead RP

Gained more strength than I thought since last year and the crux felt steady.

with CraigP
Tom Heslam 18/May/12 Lead RP

1st RP, should have onsighted. Ok for the grade.

with Jak, Gary, SJ
Dan Jenkin 14/Aug/11 Lead RP

2nd go...brilliant!

James Marshall 27/Jul/11 Lead RP

hardish move then great.

drysori 24/Jul/11 Lead dog

One day... Did all of the moves, need a return visit.

Hidden 01/Jul/11 TR dog
Stone Muppet 16/Jun/11 TR dog
with gareth
Hidden 19/May/11 TR RP
Hidden 14/May/11 Lead dog
Hidden 10/May/11 TR RP
westyb3 02/May/11 Lead O/S

great route!!

with Alan Sarhan
richsmithinbristol 02/May/11 Lead β

Beta flash courtesy of the Rainbow beta machine.

Hidden 30/Apr/11 Lead dog
Hidden 31/Aug/10 Lead dnf
colesy 15/Aug/10 Lead RP


richardr 22/Jun/10 Lead RP
MorganPreece 03/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Went so well, so close to falling of the last move reaching for the top, best route at the gap, so pumpy. easyer for the tall, i had to do this crazy undercut move at the crux!

with Will
Garrouli ?/Jun/10 Lead RP
with Rasta, Pete
DafSWMC 01/Oct/09 Lead RP

YYFY, as they say! Perfect after-work session.

with Gareth
gejones 27/Sep/09 Lead RP

Been aspiring to climb this route for years! (climbed original left hand version).

with DafSWMC
Tim W 11/Jun/09 Lead dnf
with Andrew Davidson
Hidden 09/Jun/09 Lead RP
Hidden 04/Jun/09 TR RP
onlytovey 04/Jun/09 TR RP


with Ralph
drysori ??/2009 TR
njlyons 19/Oct/08 Lead dnf
Hidden 14/Sep/08 Lead RP
Hidden 03/Nov/07 Lead RP
Billg ?/May/07 Lead RP
with John James
Hidden 11/Apr/07 Lead RP
Paz 20/May/06 Lead dog

Awesome route. TR'd it in about 3 afterwards - should get back on it definitely.

with TS
goi.ashmore 16/Jun/94 Lead RP
with Roy Thomas
Cowflinger ?/Jul/92 Lead RP
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High 7c
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High 7b+
Mid 7b+
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Mid 7b
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Votes cast 28
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