Rockfax Description
30m. An 'ordinary route' but an extraordinary outing that spirals its way up the cliff. The old-timers used to do it in five separate pitches and used peg belays at several of the stances. It covers some interesting ground and includes a dreaded stomach-traverse. Above the stomach-traverse climb past the ‘Bull's Horns' and exit rightwards from the highest (4th) ledge. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs.

ebf 29/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Did as two pitches, which seemed to work well. Paul led to ledge 3 just left of the stomach traverse (which is in fact a crawl - if you want a real stomach traverse, try the Goblin at Almscliff!) I led the remainder, which was run out and very fun.

pastep 29/Aug/16 AltLd

Moving past bull horns os harder than VD

with ebf
mikecollins 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Vikki Bassek 19/Jul/16 AltLd dog

Top Rope lowered to get me over Bulls Horns. Fine with rope above but panicked on lead.

PeterFenske 19/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/16 AltLd
Hidden 23/Jun/16 Lead O/S
daviemj 30/May/16 AltLd O/S

Interesting climb, though the rope drag became impossible to manage after the tunnel before to the 4th ledge. That's when the leader set up a belay and I finished it off. I feel better rope management would have helped. Interested climb.

with Rachel T
thetradlad 08/May/16 Lead O/S

Finished up the VS 'offwidth', without any sufficiently sized cams

Hidden 09/Aug/15 Lead
Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead
barney@helmshore 10/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Stomach traverse means crawl! Just saying. Also probably best to split into two pitches

with James W
philgillespie 21/Apr/15 Solo
Graeme Hammond 18/Apr/15 Solo O/S
metcalfe1990 ?/Jan/15 Lead
metcalfe1990 ?/Jan/15 Lead
thelps ??/2015 2nd
alexdaniel654 09/Aug/14 2nd O/S
matthewbromley 16/Jun/14 -
BnB 18/May/14 -
BenedictIEP 18/May/14 2nd β

Jake led well, on a single rope and despite good rope work the rope got completely jammed, soloed the gully to unclip gear below the horns and free up enough rope to abb. and unclip further gear to get the rope moving. Great Route, Well Led.

Hidden 18/May/14 Lead β
payeo20 01/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Climbed up to 1st ledge then right and up the crack of OR direct to second ledge then belayed on third ledge. Next belay on 4th ledge then finished up the layback finish using fist jams

with David Y
David Y 01/Mar/14 2nd

First multipitch for me.

with Phil
metcalfe1990 ?/Jan/14 Sent
Simonpeel 20/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/13 Lead
Dan_M_MCR 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S
domhowell 03/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Danny
Hidden ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
lordyosch 21/May/13 2nd

Climbed in three pitches.

Phil Mercer 21/May/13 2nd
stev1e.wilso 21/May/13 Lead O/S
dkd 21/May/13 Lead O/S
with Phil (Craven)
thelps ??/2013 2nd O/S
scott.hill 22/Sep/12 TR O/S
tinyali 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Mike Soulby 22/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Alisa
ayuplass 08/Sep/12 2nd
with miles
Julie 08/Aug/12 2nd
with Jason
Harry Holmes 17/Jun/12 Solo O/S
with sarah lund
LesserTrochanter 25/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Anne Boardman
sjbrook 24/May/12 2nd O/S
with Dave Richards, PMC
Dave Richards 24/May/12 Lead O/S
with sjbrook
Donald Kelly 24/May/12 Lead O/S
with Daria
JdotP 05/May/12 Lead O/S
with Irish Lisa, Jordan Sargeant
emmahalliday 02/Jul/11 AltLd
Legionreturns 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
djelkin1992 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/11 -
Tom Keaveny 16/Jun/11 Solo O/S

Finished up Krypton layback

with Luke Harper
Hidden 16/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Simon Holden (LCandCC) 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with will9911
will9911 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Simon
Michelle Piper 31/May/11 2nd O/S
aldred 31/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Apr/11 Solo O/S
chris.mac 25/Apr/11 -
with rick, gordon
Hidden 23/Apr/11 Lead
Jimbo_28 ??/2011 2nd
Richard Alderton ??/2011 -
with Smith
jamesrogers ?/Sep/10 -
Spence22 16/Aug/10 Solo
steven 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Murray Galagher
akhughes 03/Jun/10 Solo O/S
colinw 23/May/10 Lead O/S

Great route. VDiff? Stomach traverse to Bulls horns - brilliant.

with Tina
atyson1 ?/May/10 Lead O/S
Bisteris 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Adam Baker, Sophie Foxen
Hidden 17/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Ian Fenton ??/2010 Lead
99bolivar ?/Nov/09 2nd
with Richard Smith
Taffa 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Rick Ginns
Hidden 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
grubes 20/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Chris did to 3rd leadge I finished the route

with Chris
willworkforfoodjnr 20/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with grubes
simoncov 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Got rescued on a VDiff - went up from Bulls Horns and then belayed - LJ disappeared off right so SimonC belayed me from the top over the traverse right :-)

with LJ
..blackbird ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Mark Salter 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
peewee2008 05/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Bainbridge 05/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Trobbo 15/Jul/09 Lead
with martin bennett
Martin Bennett 14/Jul/09 -
with Darren Hartley, Terry Rob
mack1 11/Jul/09 AltLd
with dan lancaster
mjbeckett 10/Jul/09 2nd rpt
Leo Woodhead 10/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Slaney 12/Jun/09 2nd O/S
JRClay100 01/Jun/09 Lead

Ordinary by name ..... you no the rest. VS finish was quite good though.

with K I Merrick
mataius 28/May/09 -
nickhoward 24/May/09 AltLd O/S

NGH lead first pitch, KW second pitch - finished up the layback (VS)

Hidden ?/May/09 Lead β
tanssop 25/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

2 pitches

with Andy
Tim Hudds 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S

multi pitch

with jacque
Bennykr 15/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Dad
reinschgm 15/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Ben
JSA ??/2009 Lead
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Hidden 05/Jul/08 2nd
Hidden 05/Jul/08 2nd
dpmUK 05/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with ebygomm
Hidden ?/Jul/08 Lead
fnstein 11/Jun/08 2nd rpt
with Pete
Simon Perry 19/May/08 Lead O/S
with Helen Megson
Hidden 19/May/08 2nd O/S
Fred Sergeant 10/May/08 Lead O/S
with Graham
Fred Sergeant 10/May/08 Lead O/S
with Graham
Hidden 02/May/08 Lead O/S
munki1971 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Dorian Roberts
tom.t. ??/2008 -
Timothy Greenhalgh 15/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Chico
Neil Pacey 03/Jun/07 2nd rpt
Hidden 03/Jun/07 AltLd
no_more_scotch_eggs 24/May/07 Lead O/S

did in three pitches, led all; middle pitch, through stomach traverse and up 'bulls horns' was great fun, overall worth 2 stars in my book

with Stuart Berry
Hidden 21/May/07 AltLd O/S
GrandmaOfShoes 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/07 2nd
Samsungl ??/2007 TR rpt
Wayne S ??/2007 Lead
rock ape 21/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Becca D
Dax H 21/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with Nick
Simon Caldwell 10/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with Carmen and Dave
sm1rf ??/2006 TR RP
with Kev and Bradz and Andy
Lord of Starkness ?/Sep/05 Lead
with Netsrik
Hidden 10/Apr/05 Lead O/S
davidwright 10/Apr/05 2nd
with Simon B
Trobbo 05/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with ray
Mark Davies PK ?/Aug/02 2nd
with Laura
Phil West 21/Jul/01 Lead O/S
with David Atherton
ed woods ??/2001 Lead
with Rachel
tev 07/May/00 Lead O/S
with Dan
John Brayshaw 11/Aug/99 Lead O/S
with Chris
Matt Tranter ?/May/98 -
Trobbo 24/Aug/96 Solo
with andy hartley
Hidden 31/May/95 Solo
Mick King 04/Aug/91 Solo
Chris Ellis 04/Jun/89 Lead
with Dan Morgan
BigHairyIan 25/Jun/88 Solo O/S
Roget ??/1988 Solo O/S
with adam
Pete Pozman 12/Nov/86 Solo O/S
with Mark Gray
wayne2378 03/May/85 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/85 Lead
Andy Say 23/Apr/83 Lead O/S
charlesmfrench 27/Jun/82 Solo O/S
Hammy 18/Aug/78 Solo
with Jonathon Stacey
Hidden 16/Jul/78 AltLd
johno072 ?/May/73 2nd
mikej 15/Aug/71 Lead
with E
Derek Ryden ??/1971 AltLd O/S
with Geoff Riding
Hidden 28/May/70 2nd O/S
Dave Musgrove ??/1968 -
greenbuoy ?/Apr/67 Lead
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Votes cast 12
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