The bulging wall and arete to the left of East of Sweden.
A few stiff pulls lead to an overlap on the right. Undercut rightwards then reach up to a good flake hold. One last reach gets you to good incuts just under the break and then a rest. The meat of the upper arete is one big reach between good holds.

Ticklists: 2017.

richiebongo 06/Oct/17 Lead rpt
with Didymus
Didymus 06/Oct/17 Lead dog

Got a sequence for crux now - just can’t do it

with Rich
Hidden 02/Sep/17 Lead dog
Hidden 02/Sep/17 Lead RP
Stuart William 02/Sep/17 Lead O/S

No idea what I did but it worked! My first 7b onsight I think.

with J1 Tov
Didymus 24/Aug/17 TR dog

working session - have a good sequence for all of it now ... except the crux: undercut to the sharp side pull.

PaulTclimbing 14/Jul/17 Lead rpt

nowhere near

with Jon
Didymus 14/Jul/17 Lead dog

first look - feels pretty hard

Hidden 04/Jul/17 TR dnf
luke glaister 26/Jun/17 Lead dog
merlin138 16/Jun/17 Lead dog

Brilliant fun route, really quite bouldery. Did it in a 2, the reach up to the flake is a big one for the short!! Took a while to work out the beta for the lower section, proper team effort from me and Chris. This route will go next visit.....

Kemics 31/May/17 TR dnf

Had a play on TR, nails hard.

with Dave
Bristoldave 31/May/17 Lead dog
with Caleb
luke glaister 30/May/17 Lead dog

The account Is open. Why have I been keeping away from ban y gor with gems like this. Really love the crux moves and the long move at the top. There so much there it's just try to work out what's best for you. This will go soon I think.

Hidden 24/Sep/16 TR dnf
Carl Watkins 30/Aug/16 Lead RP
with jasper
Nick Russell 30/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Apparently feels no easier 2 1/2 years later! Got a few more ideas, but aided through the crux again.

wave1art ?/Jun/16 Lead dog
tobydunford 26/May/16 Lead RP
with Oli
Tom92 07/May/16 Lead RP

Tried Sept last year.. Shortly after recovering from my pelvic operation. Did all the moves but was a mile away from linking it. Today, first go from the ground, placing the draws. Great route with a stiff crux!

vertigo 17/Sep/15 Lead RP

Cool bouldery route to half way. Nice kneebar rest before the awesome long moves up the steep upper arete. Recommended!

with Eric
Tomas P 05/Sep/15 Lead RP

Tricky section from undercuts but there is a well deserved knee bar and a no hands rest afterwards

with Aelita
Hidden 05/Sep/15 Lead dnf
james n ?/Sep/15 Lead RP

First 7b so really surprised to get it second go. All the hard bits are in the first few metres.

afrosam 11/Jul/15 Lead RP
Carl Watkins 03/Jul/15 Lead dog
with Sam T
Jon_Warner 30/May/15 Lead RP

Great to get this nailed. Balls hard good job there is only 6 meters of it!

with Jenni, Tom
tommccluskey 28/May/15 Lead RP
Hidden 28/May/15 Lead RP
Billg 28/May/15 Lead rpt
Jon_Warner 27/May/15 Lead dog

Got it in two. Good route. Next time!

with Jenni
Ollie B 27/May/15 Lead RP

Played on it on sunday, 1 go to put the draws in today then did it.

with T.McCLusky
joe1joe1joe2 25/May/15 Lead RP

3rd redpoint attempt

Hidden 25/Apr/15 Lead RP
Caspian Johnson 05/Apr/15 Lead RP
with Tor
joshdownham23 ?/Apr/15 Lead dog
ericinbristol ??/2015 TR dnf
Hidden ??/2015 Lead RP
Ricky Rocks 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S

good route with a tough crux, another on off moment, the way the day panned out, great day!!!

derico 12/Sep/14 Lead RP
with Sadact
Luuuuuke 30/Jul/14 Lead RP
with martin
richiebongo 17/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Dan Perrot
PaulTclimbing ?/Jul/14 Lead dog

Various goes and others.Close Once, but hard mostly in the lower half for me. Above the rest ledge is ok.

with Pete
tombeasley 24/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Billg 17/Jun/14 Lead RP
with Kev Little
afrosam 15/Jun/14 Lead dog
Trisha Murphy 15/Jun/14 2nd dog
Hidden 26/May/14 Lead RP
Alex Winter 18/May/14 Lead RP

First RP after a go bolt-to-bolt. Cool route. Really bouldery start, followed by some long moves on good holds to the top.

with Ben Darby
Nick Russell 30/Apr/14 Lead dnf

Couldn't do the crux, aided through to the break. Found the pop up on the upper arete fun, but didn't fancy the bouldery crux.

with Helen
DorsetGareth 02/Apr/14 Lead RP

Second session.

cornishben 02/Apr/14 Lead RP

2nd redpoint attempt today, after working out a good sequence on TR

DorsetGareth 01/Apr/14 Lead dog

Still need to work crux.

monsteratt 30/Nov/13 Lead dog

Wow found the crux super hard! In fact had to aid past it :-(. Maybe it was the cold who knows. Maybe I'm just a weak punter.

with Philippa
MorganPreece 02/Sep/13 Lead rpt

Second go after reading the crux poorly, went easy second go, very odd move. hard 7b. should have flashed it, must say im kinda liking this wye valley stuff.. might have to give the south wales scene a miss for a wile

with Ashlea Bennett, Matt Smith
chrisclimber 24/Aug/13 Lead dog
GrantB 27/Jul/13 Lead RP
petellis 27/Jul/13 Lead RP

3rd session.

petellis 20/Jul/13 Lead dnf

Session 2, good link to the roof and above the roof - hard move grabbing the layback

Wise 17/Jul/13 Lead RP
with Tim
Hidden 17/Jul/13 Lead RP
Holister 11/Jul/13 Lead RP

1st redpoint attempt of the session, flowed really well.

with Hugh
SamStokes 07/Jun/13 Lead dog
with Dan Wardle
Billg 07/Jun/13 Lead RP
with Pete, Lee Bateman
chrisscutt 05/Jun/13 Lead RP
with andy, lee
Bates 05/Jun/13 Lead RP

Found crux even harder today! Great route.

with chrisscutt, Andy Brice
Bates 02/Jun/13 Lead dog

Hard crux. Got a sequence now though.

with Pete swaine
Hidden 09/Nov/12 Lead RP
lukehodson 22/Sep/12 Lead RP

Really good - thought crux was tough for 7b, but then the hard climbing was quite short lived. In a session (about an hour).

Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead dog
Joe Innes 09/Sep/12 Lead RP
Hidden 31/May/12 Lead RP
tedj234 31/May/12 Lead
Billg 30/May/12 Lead RP
Bonkers Dog 13/May/12 Lead RP
with Ali
brices 11/May/12 Lead RP
Hidden 08/Apr/12 Lead RP
con321 12/Oct/11 Lead RP

Awesome route got it clean on a top rope after trying it a while back with my friend si then today it went first go on the lead. Cracking route.

Mike_Hayes 08/Oct/11 Lead
with Sarah Marks
Hidden 31/Jul/11 TR dog
givemetea 30/Jul/11 TR dog

Had problems with the beginning, middle and end of this one!

with Dyrla, Hazel
Hidden 30/Jul/11 TR dog
Hidden 26/Jul/11 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Jul/11 Lead dog
tombeasley 14/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/Jul/11 TR dog
Garrouli 03/Jul/11 Lead RP
with Pete
Dan Jenkin 29/May/11 Lead RP

2nd go...not worth the 2 stars, just one tough boulder move

with Rich Jenkin, Gordon Jenkin
peaches69 19/May/11 Lead RP

dogged to get draws in, did crux on a top rope. nearly dropped on lead on the crux, but stuck it

with connor
SamStokes 08/May/11 2nd dog
Tom Heslam 30/Apr/11 Lead RP

one hard to see undercut...

with Rosea
Hidden 25/Apr/11 Lead RP
Sam W 05/Aug/10 TR dnf
Mike Goldthorp 06/Jul/10 Lead RP

One quick dog to put draws in and work out moves, then lead first redpoint. Really good route, through and above the roof, then one fun dynamic move after the break.

with Josh
Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead dog
DafSWMC 27/Jun/10 Lead RP

After a session on this last year pre-injury.

with Hash
Hidden 22/Jun/10 TR dnf
thomasadixon 22/Jun/10 Lead dog

All the moves just need to clean it, hard n good!

with Ross
Hidden 20/Jun/10 Lead RP
Dandan82 20/Jun/10 Lead RP

Went suprisingly smoothly after figuring out the moves, great sequence up to the thrid bolt, full on rest on the ledge breaks it up a bit oddly though.

Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 08/Jun/10 2nd dog
Hidden 05/Jun/10 Lead dnf
Jon_Warner 31/May/10 Lead dog

The only route I enjoyed at the whole crag...

with Tom
jacobjacob 23/May/10 Lead RP

climbed like a retard, really should have flashed this with the epic amount of beta from Thom...

Billg 20/May/10 Lead rpt
with Bob Brewer
fatfingerz ??/2010 -
BenNorman 05/Sep/09 Lead RP

Much easier with new beta. Really happy to get it. 1st 7b and a good climb

richardr 25/Aug/09 Lead RP

Felt pretty straight forward today. Pretty pleased, super route. 1st lead attempt too!

tombeasley 23/Aug/09 Lead RP

2nd attempt of the day - cracked it at last

with Luke
tombeasley 09/Aug/09 TR RP
with Ben
maffujones 23/Jul/09 TR RP

I climbed crux and beyond on lead and fell whilst going for a easy move which I couldn't see due to "bad light" (the sun straight in me face, curses.

gejones 23/Jun/09 Lead RP

Took a real team effort to unlock the beta.

with Daf/SamB
SeanyC 02/May/09 Lead O/S

added a sit-start! couldn't resist! start on mega undercut turn purple pulling off floor straight to side pull utilise a toe in undercut and gain first hold!! Affectionately known as 'Winnys Assis' We've after much debate given her font 4b+ as I got the whole link up first go! ha ha

with JulianS
SeanyC 27/Apr/09 Lead RP

short and powerfull, bouldering on a rope!

with JulianS
BenNorman ??/2009 TR dog

Will have it next time! linked in two but was tired

with Tom b
quiffhanger ??/2009 Lead RP
bennybeast ??/2009 Lead RP
Hidden 27/Sep/08 Lead RP
Hidden 29/Jul/08 Lead RP
Paz 08/Jul/08 Lead dog

Four or five goes at the RP, kept fluffing it.

with AM2, DR
Hidden 08/Jul/08 TR dnf
Hidden 10/Jun/08 Lead dog
Billg 05/Jun/08 Lead RP
Hidden 05/Jun/08 Lead RP
SamStokes 04/Jun/08 Lead dog

Just the one stopper move for me but it'll go!

_m.cox_ ?/Jun/08 Lead RP
pezzerrr 16/May/08 Lead RP
Hidden 19/Feb/08 Lead RP
Paul Robertson 20/May/07 Lead dog
with Chris Warner
Circus 18/May/07 Lead RP
with Alex Harper
Paul Robertson 30/Sep/06 Lead dog
with Mark Courtiour
strapless ??/1997 -
goi.ashmore 25/Mar/95 Lead O/S

Very cold day!

with Dee Herbert
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