UKC

Restricted Access

A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area has been extended,

This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access since 2018 and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access depends on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too: 

  • All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
  • Peregrines have nested on the crag in the past and nesting restrictions may apply 
  • Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat 
  • No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
  • Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
  • No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
  • No further new routing
12m.

Rockfax Description
An outstanding pitch and one of the areas best 7b's that gives sustained technical climbing. Hard moves up the lower bulges gain a rest at the break from where a couple of reaches between good holds lead to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The bulging wall and arete to the left of East of Sweden.
A few stiff pulls lead to an overlap on the right. Undercut rightwards then reach up to a good flake hold. One last reach gets you to good incuts just under the break and then a rest. The meat of the upper arete is one big reach between good holds.

Matt Ward 25/Jun/1988.

Ticklists

Mineboyz Mega Projectz - Level: Crystal , Ban-y-Gor Master , Road to f7c - Wye Valley , 7Bs with stars near Bristol

Feedback

User Date Notes
Will B.G 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Moves sorted, should’ve redpointed. (Left hand to slot, right hand up to Gaston, match in left. Right hand to undercut in roof. Build feet a little, reach flake. Right foot high ish, grab jug that’s far right
Show beta
βeta: Moves sorted, should’ve redpointed. (Left hand to slot, right hand up to Gaston, match in left. Right hand to undercut in roof. Build feet a little, reach flake. Right foot high ish, grab jug that’s far right
Joffy 19 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Tightened up the second bolt with a spanner, not sure how long it will last without some more torque. Even loose it would have been a long way from coming off though.
Show beta
βeta: Tightened up the second bolt with a spanner, not sure how long it will last without some more torque. Even loose it would have been a long way from coming off though.
mikespooner 9 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Second bolt needs a spanner
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Second bolt needs a spanner
henryali88 26 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome route. I guess 6B+ Boulder into ace rest and then fun moves on the head wall. Felt stiff
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome route. I guess 6B+ Boulder into ace rest and then fun moves on the head wall. Felt stiff
jw_climb1 11 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Was missing a bolt hanger on the first bolt
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Was missing a bolt hanger on the first bolt

Logged Ascents

298 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Ban-y-gor

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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 52
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Just Too Hot

Grade: 7b ***
(Ban-y-gor)

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