29m. Line of 6mm P bolts starting just right of Lord Stublock. Move straight up until the bulge forces you on the the arête (stepping across is cheating and unnecessary). Follow arête with some good pockets to ease difficulties until you arrive to position on an exposed big ear. A long move gains the ledge under a big block, move up and left on good holds to finish just right of Lord Stublock lower-off.
YOU NEED A 60M ROPE

Marti Hallett 05/Dec/2017

Ticklists

Portland NEW SPORT Routes since Rockfax Guide 2012

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Gazmataz 19 May Show βeta
βeta: Beware of the two bolts at the top that look like an anchor but aren’t. You still have a big over hanging move to go to get to the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Beware of the two bolts at the top that look like an anchor but aren’t. You still have a big over hanging move to go to get to the top.
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
johnhan310 15 Jun Lead O/S
Rockmonkey1977 15 Jun Lead β Very very cool. An excellent addition to the crag, one of the few routes where the ‘eliminate’ style adds value.
with Will
Very very cool. An excellent addition to the crag, one of the few routes where the ‘eliminate’ style adds value.
with Will
bn09whg 15 Jun Lead O/S
Gazmataz 19 May Lead dog Thought I was on stublock and was sure arête wasn’t in for stublock. Made for some confused climbing and was probably what lost me the onsight. great route once I realised the right moves. Watch out for the two bolts right next to each other near the top. They look like an anchor but aren’t. You still have one more big move to do
Thought I was on stublock and was sure arête wasn’t in for stublock. Made for some confused climbing and was probably what lost me the onsight. great route once I realised the right moves. Watch out for the two bolts right next to each other near the top. They look like an anchor but aren’t. You still have one more big move to do
FrannBarker 6 May Lead
vickydavies 6 May Lead rpt
rockafunked 4 May Lead O/S It’s a good route, but it’s easy to confuse with Lord Stublock as both routes are barely feet apart.
It’s a good route, but it’s easy to confuse with Lord Stublock as both routes are barely feet apart.
vickydavies 1 May Lead O/S
with Ruth King
with Ruth King
eternal_climber 8 Apr TR O/S
eternal_climber 8 Apr TR O/S
will_of_fortune 7 Apr Lead O/S Wasn't in the guidebook so mistakenly thought this was Lord Stublock. Still a brilliant line though.
with Abi
Wasn't in the guidebook so mistakenly thought this was Lord Stublock. Still a brilliant line though.
with Abi
Hidden 31 Mar Lead O/S
Richard Kendrick 24 Feb Lead O/S
with Arlo
with Arlo
JorgeR 23 Feb Lead RP
Ignas Va 23 Feb Lead rpt
AlexD 14 Feb Lead O/S
with Brian
with Brian
Hidden ?? -
Stroppy 30 Dec, 2018 Lead O/S
Edpepper 27 Oct, 2018 Lead β
Qisheng Xie 21 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S Thought I was on Stublock.
Thought I was on Stublock.
Benj-m 9 Sep, 2018 Lead dog
liucija.lat 8 Sep, 2018 Lead dog
annakh 21 Jul, 2018 Lead dog Was trying to do lord stublock
Was trying to do lord stublock
Hidden 1 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Ignas Va 1 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
TomRiddelsdell 17 Jun, 2018 Lead RP
with Matt77
with Matt77
Matt77 16 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Tom Riddelsdell
with Tom Riddelsdell
Slater425 6 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Chris
with Chris
S.Kew 5 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
derryclimbs 1 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with ben1234
with ben1234
ben1234 1 Jun, 2018 2nd
FilthyFlamingo 27 May, 2018 TR β
Hidden 26 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Phil Davidson 23 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Daz Devey 23 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Dave LJ 13 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Carnie Lisa 25 Mar, 2018 2nd β
with Dan Verge
with Dan Verge
Dandan 25 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S
brian watson 24 Feb, 2018 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins
with Mike Hawkins
Ed Babs 17 Feb, 2018 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins
with Mike Hawkins
afterthesend 7 Jan, 2018 Lead O/S
samparsons 7 Jan, 2018 Lead O/S Good line.
Good line.
emmafizzle 7 Jan, 2018 Lead dnf Blahhhh got afraid to step up and get under the roof. Should’ve just done it really!
Blahhhh got afraid to step up and get under the roof. Should’ve just done it really!
Kayface42 7 Jan, 2018 TR RP Failed on my lead as it was a bit crumbly at the crux and my feet broke a few holds so I got scared. TR clean and defo one to return to as this line is spectacular. After a few more ascents if that middle bit cleans up I’d give it 3 stars.
with Linc
Failed on my lead as it was a bit crumbly at the crux and my feet broke a few holds so I got scared. TR clean and defo one to return to as this line is spectacular. After a few more ascents if that middle bit cleans up I’d give it 3 stars.
with Linc
Marti999 5 Dec, 2017 Lead β FA
FA
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Votes cast 8
Style of ascent
Lead
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