Restricted Access
The Beeston Tor caves at the right-hand side of the crag are an important archaeological site and the landowner (The National Trust) do not want any disturbance to the caves themselves. The Trust has requested that if climbers at the crag notice any suspicious activity around the caves (eg digging, metal detecting, carrying equipment or bags to/from the caves etc), that they call 01335 350503 and leave a message with any details.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies from Flying Doctor / The Thorn to Central Wall / Cleo's Mood inclusive (depending on which guidebook you are using).
Rockfax Description
Follow the groove of The Fly to a hole. Pull right up to a thread then climb direct to a fixed belay. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Follow the Fly to the large hole where it moves left. Reach over the bulge to a distant pocket on the left, peg, and pull rightwards to a good pocket, thread. Continue straight up more easily but with little protection to a bolt belay.
Gary Gibson 22/Feb/2018.
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Guidebooks for Beeston Tor
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Ascent of Man
Grade: E3 6a ***
(Roaches Lower Tier)