UKC

Outstanding 2 pitch climb, with most of the beef on the second one.

Descent is typically done by abseil in two parts (one short and one long of 60 on stretch) with 60m ropes. With 50m ropes, it can also be done, carefully abseiling via an insitu anchor under a roof a few metres below the P1 belay (The P1 belay insitu anchor has recently been removed)

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The 30 best E3 routes in the UK? , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Big Routes , BMG Application Rock (Unofficial) , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , Gary's Ticklist E3-E5 , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , 4 Star Scottish rock , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , Extreme Rock II

Feedback

User Date Notes
conorcussell 10 Sep, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: There is an old rusty nut in the ab station above pitch 2 - it prevents the tat being replaced. Slings + tat are in OK condition for now but eventually they won't be. I tried but it needs a hammer/rock to bash the nut key ideally. 60m ropes get you down from above pitch 2. I removed the ab station above P1 - it was 3 rusty wires on tat and seemed sensible to get them out before they disintegrated and blocked the placements.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is an old rusty nut in the ab station above pitch 2 - it prevents the tat being replaced. Slings + tat are in OK condition for now but eventually they won't be. I tried but it needs a hammer/rock to bash the nut key ideally. 60m ropes get you down from above pitch 2. I removed the ab station above P1 - it was 3 rusty wires on tat and seemed sensible to get them out before they disintegrated and blocked the placements.
trying.soft 10 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The abseil from Titan's Wall can be done in 2 abs (one short and one long of 60 on stretch), or it can be done with 50m ropes in 3 sections, using rhe Titan's P1 in-situ belay station as the last section.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The abseil from Titan's Wall can be done in 2 abs (one short and one long of 60 on stretch), or it can be done with 50m ropes in 3 sections, using rhe Titan's P1 in-situ belay station as the last section.
CMcBain 26 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: We belayed almost directly under the crack of P2 rather than way off to the left. Saves you having to arrange runners for a sideways pull as per the guidebook description. 60m ropes will get you to the ground from the top of P2… just.
Show beta
βeta: We belayed almost directly under the crack of P2 rather than way off to the left. Saves you having to arrange runners for a sideways pull as per the guidebook description. 60m ropes will get you to the ground from the top of P2… just.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 28
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 29
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Jamay

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Buachaille Etive Mor)

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