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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.

Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Rockfax Description
Accommodating crack climbing. Start up The Orphan and then head straight up the crack-line with plenty of protection possibilities. © Rockfax

Ticklists

CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)

Feedback

User Date Notes
tomchitson 24 Mar Show βeta
βeta: 24/03/24 - belay a bit tricky on this. Couldn't see any new chains as on other routes so traversed right to some old tat. Would be worth bringing some new core and maillon. Tree with tat is looking worse for wear so proceed with caution!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 24/03/24 - belay a bit tricky on this. Couldn't see any new chains as on other routes so traversed right to some old tat. Would be worth bringing some new core and maillon. Tree with tat is looking worse for wear so proceed with caution!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 62
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 50
Votes cast 55
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Freedom

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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